Macro Lenses

I own a FZ30 and am looking to do some macro work. Have been looking around and want to get macro lenses to get closer to subject with the FZ30's minimum Macro Focus distance of 50 mm. I have narrowed my choice down to Either the Raynox 250 or Tiffen stackable close up lenses +1, +2 and +4. Which is a better alternate? Plus should I also consider the HOYA lenses. Which is my best option?

I use the Raynox 250 and love it - it can be 'too close' sometimes. I think the real experts here have both the Raynox 150 and 250 - also stackable - that gives them quite a useful range....can't speak to the Tiffen - good luck!

Tabish Asad said:

I own a FZ30 and am looking to do some macro work. Have been looking
around and want to get macro lenses to get closer to subject with the
FZ30's minimum Macro Focus distance of 50 mm. I have narrowed my
choice down to Either the Raynox 250 or Tiffen stackable close up
lenses +1, +2 and +4. Which is a better alternate? Plus should I also
consider the HOYA lenses. Which is my best option?

Click to expand...

--
------
Bill G.
FZ50--Raynox 250--Oly FL-36

I am learning to use the Raynox 250 and find this site very helpful
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1033&message=23271772

--
Tom

tiffen and hoya are not 2 (or 3) elements, are they?

avoid anything that has only 1element.

also look at minolta #2, often on ebay for $20 or $30ish.
its native 55mm threads.

finally, there are nikon 3t and 4t that need a 52/55mm adapter.

--
Bryan (pics only: http://www.flickr.com/photos/linux-works )
(pics and more: http://www.netstuff.org ) ~

Tabish Asad said:

I own a FZ30 and am looking to do some macro work. Have been looking
around and want to get macro lenses to get closer to subject with the
FZ30's minimum Macro Focus distance of 50 mm. I have narrowed my
choice down to Either the Raynox 250 or Tiffen stackable close up
lenses +1, +2 and +4. Which is a better alternate? Plus should I also
consider the HOYA lenses. Which is my best option?

Click to expand...

With a first step try to use an about 1 diopters lens. There are good ones of Hoya and a better one achromatic lense of Minolta No.0. It took much efforts to get one in Europe. But I had help from DPREVIEW-Members.

I'm surprised that nobody seems to know, what you can do with an one diopter lens on a FZ50. Try it (flowers, butterflies, dragonflies and so on).

Second step: try it with a 2 diopters lens. Commenly in use the Canon 500D or Minolta No. 1.

If you can managage this, try the Raynox DCR-150 or the Canon 250D and then you can the try the Raynox DCR-250.

I'm still learning with the Minolta No.0 and with the Raynox DCR-150.

And I know - I've much to learn.

regards

Olaf

One alternative that can yield very close focus distances and very clean images:
reversed legacy optics.

By legacy I mean optics for older 35mm cameras that lack any auto focus or other automatic characteristics that would tend to make them valuable for more modern film SLRs or dSLRs.

They can often be had for bargain prices. For example: I recently saw a 55mm Micro Nikkor f:3.5 listed in Craig's List here in Orlando with an asking price of $15. It was long considered to be one of the sharpest and most well-behaved macro lenses for Nikon F cameras. If I had not been too late, I would have it now. I would have spent roughly $5 for a 55 - 52mm reversing adapter and stuck it on the front of my FZ50. The point about reversing the lens is that it will always focus at a fixed point about 1 inch from the rear element (now in front); since the rear element is designed as a flat field elment, it will yield outstanding clarity across the full width of the image. I did happen across a Yashica 135mm f:2.8 that I paid a Dollar for that has 55mm filter ring - it works fairly well but is very heavy. I figured for the minimal investment it was worth trying.

One thing many have to keep in mind is that normal focusing function don't always work and you must focus with camera position (move it forward and back until you get the focus you want). Also, the apperture must be adjusted for the reversed lens manually. On benefit of that is that you can find the sweet spot for the reversed lens and set it there.

The bottom line is that there are all sorts of sources for good glass that can serve to modify the focusing characteristics of FZxx cameras - just experiment. The only permanent damage that can be done, IMHO, is if you are not carefull about attaching a heavy piece of glass on the front of the lens without adequate support.

Enjoy the search.

JimW203

linuxworks said:

tiffen and hoya are not 2 (or 3) elements, are they?

avoid anything that has only 1element.

Click to expand...

sure,

but there are new hoya, marumi and soligor achromatic lenses with 55mm diameter and +3, 4 and 5 diopters.

The cheap sets mentioned above are single lenses.

This forum avoids my pages:
http://freenet-homepage.de/seemolf/achromats.html

But you could look at this comparison:
http://www.lensmateonline.com/newsite/S2macro.html

Sven

http://freenet-homepage.de/seemolf/

olafk said:

Tabish Asad said:

I own a FZ30 and am looking to do some macro work. Have been looking
around and want to get macro lenses to get closer to subject with the
FZ30's minimum Macro Focus distance of 50 mm. I have narrowed my
choice down to Either the Raynox 250 or Tiffen stackable close up
lenses +1, +2 and +4. Which is a better alternate? Plus should I also
consider the HOYA lenses. Which is my best option?

Click to expand...

With a first step try to use an about 1 diopters lens. There are good
ones of Hoya and a better one achromatic lense of Minolta No.0. It
took much efforts to get one in Europe. But I had help from
DPREVIEW-Members.

I'm surprised that nobody seems to know, what you can do with an one
diopter lens on a FZ50. Try it (flowers, butterflies, dragonflies and
so on).

Second step: try it with a 2 diopters lens. Commenly in use the Canon
500D or Minolta No. 1.

If you can managage this, try the Raynox DCR-150 or the Canon 250D
and then you can the try the Raynox DCR-250.

I'm still learning with the Minolta No.0 and with the Raynox DCR-150.

And I know - I've much to learn.

regards

Olaf

Click to expand...

excellent advice!

But most people look at Bob's pages at start with too strong and vignetting lenses.

I have the whole choice of achromats/reversed lenses.

My statistics in the field looks like this at the moment:

diopters
+1 (20%) no achromat needed with the FZ5 tele macro
+2 40%
+4 25%
+8 10%
more 5%

..please post some pictures with the Minolta #0, Olaf.

Cheers

Sven

Hi Jim,

I read your post on the Nikon 55mm F3.5 Macro lens with interest. I am trying to achieve a good quality macro image with my FZ30. I happen to own the Nikon Macro lens described, and reverse or not, it does not work with the FZ30 or FZ50 camera because the glass itself is so recessed into the barrel, that it vignettes almost to a small hole in the middle of the frame. What am I missing here? Thanks for any clarification that you can offer, Regards, Ken.
--
Ken

Ken Gibilisco said:

Hi Jim,

I read your post on the Nikon 55mm F3.5 Macro lens with interest. I
am trying to achieve a good quality macro image with my FZ30. I
happen to own the Nikon Macro lens described, and reverse or not, it
does not work with the FZ30 or FZ50 camera because the glass itself
is so recessed into the barrel, that it vignettes almost to a small
hole in the middle of the frame. What am I missing here? Thanks for
any clarification that you can offer, Regards, Ken.

Click to expand...

Ken,

You have touched on the very thing I wanted to test. The fact that the first element is recessed in a de facto lens shade puts the front element at a greater distance from the FZ50 (or FZ30) front element when reversed that typically woulld be the case. It is that greater distance that I was concerned about; at the price I mentioned in my post, I was willing to try it.

I bought my first 55mm Micro-Nikkor in the 70s and loved it. I have not had my Nikon system for several years; when I got my FZ50 last year I began exploring ways of getting it to operate outside it's design limits. I have found it a very willing lab rat in many ways.

Another lens I no longer have that I would like to try reversed on the FZ50 is the original f:4 21mm Nikkor. It had a recessed rear element and the mirror had to be locked up for it to be mounted. It came with an optical view finder so you could shoot with it. It turned the Nikon F into a completely manual camera but gave outstanding (for the times) wide angle results. Reversed, it should allow extremely close focusing with a wide and flat field of view. I don't feature spending the $500 or so being asked for one today in order to try it. If you happen to have one of those, as well, and are willing to test it, I would like very much to see the results.

My next trial, I think, may be a telescope objective from a 50mm refactor (Meade or Celestron); typically they can be found for less than $15-$20.

JimW203

Seemolf said:

linuxworks said:

tiffen and hoya are not 2 (or 3) elements, are they?

avoid anything that has only 1element.
finally, there are nikon 3t and 4t that need a 52/55mm adapters

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Finally!?

The Oly Mcon/B & A Macros & the Canon 250D (58mm), not to mention a Sigma & a few others are every bit as good as those..

Those Raynoxs' are a tough pair to beat though. I only wish they weren't so narrow as to prevent use all the way wide, despite full wide zoom being a not so common macro shooting zoom position...

Seemolf said:

sure,

but there are new hoya, marumi and soligor achromatic lenses with
55mm diameter and +3, 4 and 5 diopters.

Click to expand...

Thanks, always lookin for something new to investigate....

Seemolf said:

The cheap sets mentioned above are single lenses.

Click to expand...

I'm surprised everyone's failed to mention the pitfalls of single elements... Such as possible softening on the perimeter, sometimes with or without fringe & shallower DOF, compared to the double & triple element choices....

Seemolf said:

This forum avoids my pages:
http://freenet-homepage.de/seemolf/achromats.html

Click to expand...

Maybe recently but I've often steered inquisitors to those pages of yours...

Seemolf said:

But you could look at this comparison:
http://www.lensmateonline.com/newsite/S2macro.html

Click to expand...

Not tonight but I will if they're new & I haven't seen em yet... Been a while since I last went surffin' for Macro comparisons...

Seemolf said:

Sven

http://freenet-homepage.de/seemolf/

Click to expand...

--

The Amateur Formerly Known as 'UZ'pShoot'ERS' 'Happy Shootin' Comments, Critique, Ridicule, Limericks, Jokes, Hi-jackings, EnthUZIastically, Encouraged... I Insist!



* [email protected] * http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz * EffZeeThreeZero / CeeEightZeroEightZeroDoubleUZee / CeeTwoOneZeroZeroUZee / EOneHuderedAreEssfinally, there are nikon 3t and 4t that need a 52/55mm adapter.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for your response.

I believe that I may have that wide-angle Nikon as well, I will check for you in a few days.

Generally speaking, when self-contained SLR single purpose lenses not designed as auxiliary lenses, as the two mentioned here, are placed in front of another self-contained lens, the results are usually not acceptable. Even if they are reversed. You may experience any or all of the following; Vignetting, soft corners, poor color, impossible focus, or many other aberrations.

You would be much better off purchasing an achromatic macro lens, like the Raynox 150, Raynox 250, Minolta, Olympus, Nikon, Leica, etc. which are specifically designed for this purpose.

Thanks again, Regards, Ken.
--
Ken

Tabish Asad said:

I own a FZ30 and am looking to do some macro work. Have been looking
around and want to get macro lenses to get closer to subject with the
FZ30's minimum Macro Focus distance of 50 mm. I have narrowed my
choice down to Either the Raynox 250 or Tiffen stackable close up
lenses +1, +2 and +4. Which is a better alternate? Plus should I also
consider the HOYA lenses. Which is my best option?

Click to expand...

The Raynox lenses have incredible image quality, I assure you, and they are so perfect for the ultrazoom compacts.

You wont have much use of a +2 lens, and specially not with a +1 lens since you can already focus with full tele from around 1m distance with your camera I guess.

+4 though, which is the DCR-150, might be the best option since you can get VERY close (around 2cm wide horisontally), yet still manage to shoot somewhat larger flowers or butterflies and such without vignetting (maybe up to 7-8cm wide horisontally I would guess). And when the +4 cant get "far away" enough you just take it off and use regular full tele macro....I think it'll go quite seamlessly.

The DCR-250, which I have (on my Canon S3) is really great fun, but I have to stick to smaller objects since it has such extreme magnification.

But it all depends on what you're gonna shoot...maybe those microscopic subjects are what you want?

A few unedited (slightly cropped though) images from my DCR-250.
The ant is about what you'd get with a +4 at full magnification on your camera.

The fly though is not as large as it might look, its extremely small, maybe 4-5mm long. You wont get pics like that one without a +8 lens.







--
http://sebastianfoto.se/

Seemolf said:

olafk said:

Tabish Asad said:

I own a FZ30 and am looking to do some macro work. Have been looking
around and want to get macro lenses to get closer to subject with the
FZ30's minimum Macro Focus distance of 50 mm. I have narrowed my
choice down to Either the Raynox 250 or Tiffen stackable close up
lenses +1, +2 and +4. Which is a better alternate? Plus should I also
consider the HOYA lenses. Which is my best option?

Click to expand...

With a first step try to use an about 1 diopters lens. There are good
ones of Hoya and a better one achromatic lense of Minolta No.0. It
took much efforts to get one in Europe. But I had help from
DPREVIEW-Members.

I'm surprised that nobody seems to know, what you can do with an one
diopter lens on a FZ50. Try it (flowers, butterflies, dragonflies and
so on).

Second step: try it with a 2 diopters lens. Commenly in use the Canon
500D or Minolta No. 1.

If you can managage this, try the Raynox DCR-150 or the Canon 250D
and then you can the try the Raynox DCR-250.

I'm still learning with the Minolta No.0 and with the Raynox DCR-150.

And I know - I've much to learn.

regards

Olaf

Click to expand...

excellent advice!

Click to expand...

Thank you Sven but if I learned someting I learned it from you and from the dpreview user named kernow (hallo Jim).

Seemolf said:

But most people look at Bob's pages at start with too strong and
vignetting lenses.

I have the whole choice of achromats/reversed lenses.

My statistics in the field looks like this at the moment:

diopters
+1 (20%) no achromat needed with the FZ5 tele macro
+2 40%
+4 25%
+8 10%
more 5%

..please post some pictures with the Minolta #0, Olaf.

Click to expand...

I'm doing my best but the dragonflies do'nt cooperate.

And I'm trying to develope a basis to publish answers on questions in the forums of dpreview on an own website. In future I will not give the same answer again. I will only set a link to my once given answer.

It's still under work, but you can have a first look on

http://www.ok-photos.com

Regards

Olaf

Seemolf said:

Cheers

Sven

Click to expand...

Ken Gibilisco said:

Hi Jim,

Thanks for your response.

I believe that I may have that wide-angle Nikon as well, I will check
for you in a few days.

You would be much better off purchasing an achromatic macro lens,
like the Raynox 150, Raynox 250, Minolta, Olympus, Nikon, Leica, etc.
which are specifically designed for this purpose.

Thanks again, Regards, Ken.

Click to expand...

I already have both Raynoxes you mention. I am just a tinkerer by nature and am constantly looking for the odd connection that works.

The 21mm Nikkor interest me largely because it was so strange compared to other lenses. I bought mine in Dubai in the late 60s when I was working out of there. I took full advantage of their very liberal import and tax laws to flesh out very complete Nikon F and Hasselblad systems. I was splitting my time between Dubai and Beirut; both places had outstanding photo equipment resources. One place in Beirut in particular, Sarafian Stores, was a treasure trove.

But, I digress - thanks for the feedback.

JimW203

Thank you so very much for all your advice. Some stuff, got a bit too technical, but just made me learn so much more when I had to do extra reading on subject. All of you have helped me made a choice and for a beginner like me, the Raynox 150 seems to be the ideal place to start.

Special thanks to Sebastian for providing pictures and giving me an idea of what to expect specially in terms of width in CM as to how close I can get or how big an object I can shoot with the lens on...

Tabish Asad said:

Thank you so very much for all your advice. Some stuff, got a bit too
technical, but just made me learn so much more when I had to do extra
reading on subject. All of you have helped me made a choice and for a
beginner like me, the Raynox 150 seems to be the ideal place to start.
Special thanks to Sebastian for providing pictures and giving me an
idea of what to expect specially in terms of width in CM as to how
close I can get or how big an object I can shoot with the lens on...

Click to expand...

You're welcome. Good luck with your lens

And remember when you use high magnification (lots of tele) its usually best to loch the focus to infinity, and focus by moving camera back/forth, while when using low magnification and longer DOF its to hard to spot focus yourself and AF usually does a good job....just make sure to hold the camera on the correct focusingdistance or it wont find anything.
--
http://sebastianfoto.se/