T100 Blur help

funk1196

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Here's my problem, i had a T1, and i bought a T100 to solve it, but it didnt seem to work...

Here's my friend singing karaoke...



I set it to scene selection "high iso"

here's details of the picture, 8mp, 6mm, f/3.5, 1/6 sec exposure time, iso 400 (wtf), metering mode: pattern.

even when the 'high iso' actually utilizes 1600 or 3200, the pictures are still blurry, but grainy at the same time. i can fix graininess with NeatImage... but the blur is still there.

not to mention there's a picture of the shaky hand (image stabilization) with a "!" next to it almost always.. which means "vibration" according to the manual... uh.. isnt that what image stabilization is for? not to tell me that my hand isnt a tripod, but to fix that...?
 
... Try not to drink too much - Kidding.

The 'blur' is purely and simply camera shake caused by your movement during the exposure.

In truth a 1/6 exposure is almost impossible to hand hold. The best I can do at wide angle is 1/15 and I really have to brace to do that. The flashing hand is there for a reason. It's telling you your shutter speed is too low.

You could up the ISO and try to really brace when you take the image. Both hands on the camera and elbows squeezed to the body. See how you go.
Good luck.
--
Rgds, Dave.
Have fun - take lotsa pix.
http://www.pixplanet.biz
http://pixplanet.fotki.com
 
In addition to what Dave said about stabilizing yourself to avoid the camera shake, movement of your target also contributes to a blurred image.

Image stabilization is helpful with static targets. But if your target is moving, IS does not help.

Olga
 
you could set the EV to -0.7 ...the camera chosses a shorter exposure time then but the image is a bit darker ,though. that often helps with my t100...
 
If it took 1/6 sec to ISO400, it'll take 1/24 sec for ISO1600 and 1/48 sec for ISO 3200. You're still going to get blur with moving subjects.

Stabilization helps to keep the camera still with respect to the scene. It doesn't help freeze moiving objects inside the scene.

What's wrong with using flash?
I set it to scene selection "high iso"
here's details of the picture, 8mp, 6mm, f/3.5, 1/6 sec exposure
time, iso 400 (wtf), metering mode: pattern.

even when the 'high iso' actually utilizes 1600 or 3200, the
pictures are still blurry, but grainy at the same time. i can fix
graininess with NeatImage... but the blur is still there.

not to mention there's a picture of the shaky hand (image
stabilization) with a "!" next to it almost always.. which means
"vibration" according to the manual... uh.. isnt that what image
stabilization is for? not to tell me that my hand isnt a tripod,
but to fix that...?
 
great. so even the scene selection is pretty useless... i'd have to go into the programmed settings and do it all manually just cause 'high iso' doesnt really mean 'high iso'...

the camera's a tiny point and shoot, its meant for one hand... sigh... the thing's so light that its hard to keep still.

looks i'm just gonna have to find out how to put one of those DSLR cameras in my pocket, hah.
 
Who said T-100 can manage this kind of ISO performanc. In fact non of the P&S can, not even F30. Either use flash or live with what you get. To catch a pop singer you need some thing like 1/60 and faster. Without flash this would mean ISO 3200 or above. Incidently T-100 has a very weak flash around 5 feet at ISO 100. So buy a slave and negate the very purpose you bought T-100. See what these pocket P&S mean. They are very good for outdoor day light, not meant for indoors.
 
You ought to be using slow-synchro flash mode which leaves the shutter open longer to capture the background, while usng the flash to freeze the moving subject. I believe there is a 'twilight portrait' scene mode which uses this technique automatically.

How can you expect a faster shutter speed when these isn't enough light?
What's wrong with using flash?
Flash creates a sterile white in the picture that takes away from
how things really look, nothing looks natural...

though it always does take a faster shutter rate when i use the
flash... why can't i just tell the camera to take a faster shutter
speed damnit?
 
..all a faster shutter will do is make the picture darker. Now, sometimes some people opt for the darker picture and then lighten it up in post processing. That usually results in lots of noise although sometimes noise isn't all that bad if all you're interested in is frozen action.

Olga
 
unfortunately its a P&S so wont give you the creative control over shutter speed and aperture, the only real thing it lets you play with is the ISO settings, so change these in program mode to whatever you want, and then brace yourself (as the actress said to the bishop), so you reduce camera shake.

Alternatively get one of thos mini tripods with flexible legs to reduce camera shake. Or set the ISO at 200 and use the flash.

I agree that the T100 can be frustrating but it can also take shots like these;



--
'100% of the shots you don't take don't go in' -
Wayne Gretzky
 
I was at a concert on Monday night, and found that standing in the crowd, way out of flash range, and using the zoom the only way to avoid blur was to push the ISO up to 1600, or 800 if the light was a little better.





--
'100% of the shots you don't take don't go in' -
Wayne Gretzky
 
Here's my problem, i had a T1, and i bought a T100 to solve it, but
it didnt seem to work...

Here's my friend singing karaoke...



I set it to scene selection "high iso"
here's details of the picture, 8mp, 6mm, f/3.5, 1/6 sec exposure
time, iso 400 (wtf), metering mode: pattern.

even when the 'high iso' actually utilizes 1600 or 3200, the
pictures are still blurry, but grainy at the same time. i can fix
graininess with NeatImage... but the blur is still there.

not to mention there's a picture of the shaky hand (image
stabilization) with a "!" next to it almost always.. which means
"vibration" according to the manual... uh.. isnt that what image
stabilization is for? not to tell me that my hand isnt a tripod,
but to fix that...?
There are two problems:

1) At 1/6th you will have motion blur due to the subject moving. There's not much you can do about that

2) Image stabilisation works, but it doesn't work miracles. There's a rule of thumb that says you should use 1/focal length as a minimum exosure time to avoid blur. If the T100 is around 38mm at it's widest, you should be shooting at 1/30th or 1/60th if you are at the widest. Image stabiliation may help you get down to maybe 1/30th instead, but at 1/6th it's pot luck.

Two things I find that help reduce motion blur on a small camera like the T100 are:

1) Use the viewfinder if there is one instead of the LCD. It makes the camera much more stable when it's on your face.

2) Grip the camera around the edges, and press as tightly as you can. This stabilises the camera somewhat.

With the photo you took, you don't have any option except to use flash, which will substantially increase the quality.

--
Mike
http://mikekatz.smugmug.com
 
The T100 doesn't have a viewfinder. But good advice otherwise!
Here's my problem, i had a T1, and i bought a T100 to solve it, but
it didnt seem to work...

Here's my friend singing karaoke...



I set it to scene selection "high iso"
here's details of the picture, 8mp, 6mm, f/3.5, 1/6 sec exposure
time, iso 400 (wtf), metering mode: pattern.

even when the 'high iso' actually utilizes 1600 or 3200, the
pictures are still blurry, but grainy at the same time. i can fix
graininess with NeatImage... but the blur is still there.

not to mention there's a picture of the shaky hand (image
stabilization) with a "!" next to it almost always.. which means
"vibration" according to the manual... uh.. isnt that what image
stabilization is for? not to tell me that my hand isnt a tripod,
but to fix that...?
There are two problems:

1) At 1/6th you will have motion blur due to the subject moving.
There's not much you can do about that

2) Image stabilisation works, but it doesn't work miracles. There's
a rule of thumb that says you should use 1/focal length as a
minimum exosure time to avoid blur. If the T100 is around 38mm at
it's widest, you should be shooting at 1/30th or 1/60th if you are
at the widest. Image stabiliation may help you get down to maybe
1/30th instead, but at 1/6th it's pot luck.

Two things I find that help reduce motion blur on a small camera
like the T100 are:

1) Use the viewfinder if there is one instead of the LCD. It makes
the camera much more stable when it's on your face.

2) Grip the camera around the edges, and press as tightly as you
can. This stabilises the camera somewhat.

With the photo you took, you don't have any option except to use
flash, which will substantially increase the quality.

--
Mike
http://mikekatz.smugmug.com
 

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