C2100 UZI for coaching rowing?

PhiltheOar

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Rochester, MN, US
What a wonderful forum - I have been reading for days and wish I had come here sooner. I am enthusiastic about getting my first digital camera soon. I have minimal SLR experience, and am about to receive my UZI by UPS in a few days.

I coach rowing (crew) and want a camera to use 'on the water' to take photos to show rowers how to improve their technique. Based on information from a slew of sites, (before I got to this one) I decided to buy an UZI. I based my decision on what I considered some essential features: 10X Zoom, image stabilization, sequence mode, rapid and sharp pictures. AND I wanted to stay under $700 total investment. Based on the experiences I have read about on this forum, I think I made the right choice.

I ordered the UZI with an Exec pkg from Genesis Camera(new and not grey market). The package includes 128MB card, 4 rechargeable batteries and charger, shock protected bag, a 3 year Mack warranty and some other stuff for $569 plus shipping, insurance, and a 14 day return... round total $600. That was pretty good I think even though I have seen better on this forum. Agree?

I need advice so I can hit the water with some sort of organized approach. I read some of the posts about the E-100rs and C-2100 UZI. Although have had a few second thoughts about my choice of an UZI, overall I am happy with my choice, and waiting anxiously for delivery... and fun!

Questions:

1) Was the UZI my best choice given my budget and requirements? Should I have spent a little more for a E-100rs?

Most rowers go through a complete stroke, or cycle from catch to finish and back to catch again in about 3 seconds when they are early in their learning phase down to 2 seconds for a full cycle. So max I would expect 6 sequences. I realize there will be some luck involved to catch rowers at the right spot in their sequence to point out the corrections they need to make. Movements of the rowers are predictable and timed, so it is not quite like waiting for a baseball, soccer, basketball, or football highlight. I am hopeful I can capture what I need in a 3-5 stroke sequence or more if possible to capture more than 10-15 seconds.

2) Woud the Quicktime movie feature be better than sequence shots for teaching the rowers?

I was disappointed to read on this forum that the UZI Quicktime movies aren't the greatest. I won't be trying to get the images published in SI, but I want to be able to stop the image and show people what they are doing, right or wrong. For publishable shots I will clearly need HQ ro SHQ resolution still shots.

3) Should IS be off or on during sequence shots?

I see two possibilities here - 1) IS may successfuly stabilize the image shaking that occurs in the motor launch I coach from. 2) It may slow the sequence down so that I only get a few stills during a 3-5 stroke sequence.

4) Can I take longer sequences?

Not sure how many seconds are available to me for sequence shooting in various modes.

5) Do you foresee problems with focus? What about manual focus during sequence shots or quicktime movies?

My distance from the rowers may vary even during a 3-5 stroke sequence if the launch is not directly alongside the rowers.

5) What about the mode?

I gather most will say to use p mode and fool with ISO, aperture, and shutter speed to see what is optimal, but am still interested in what people might have to suggest as a starting point and where to go from there.

I am really looking forward to some specific replies. Comments on the way I ask my questions welcome. --Phil the Oar
 
Thanks to anyone who read my long story - it has already changed!

I am sending back the C2100 UZI and getting an E100rs. Seems much better for my purposes.

Got it for $479.95 including shipping on Ebay from brandnewbuy.

Also got a 256MB Compact Flash by Ritek from Return buy on Ebay for $117

Convinced I now have the right camera in the E100rs and enough memory to start shooting, I am still wondering about the ideal settings to start taking pictures of rowers in action.

Thanks for any help you all can give...

I look forward to posting photos on the forum!

Phil
What a wonderful forum - I have been reading for days and wish I
had come here sooner. I am enthusiastic about getting my first
digital camera soon. I have minimal SLR experience, and am about to
receive my UZI by UPS in a few days.

I coach rowing (crew) and want a camera to use 'on the water' to
take photos to show rowers how to improve their technique. Based on
information from a slew of sites, (before I got to this one) I
decided to buy an UZI. I based my decision on what I considered
some essential features: 10X Zoom, image stabilization, sequence
mode, rapid and sharp pictures. AND I wanted to stay under $700
total investment. Based on the experiences I have read about on
this forum, I think I made the right choice.

I ordered the UZI with an Exec pkg from Genesis Camera(new and not
grey market). The package includes 128MB card, 4 rechargeable
batteries and charger, shock protected bag, a 3 year Mack warranty
and some other stuff for $569 plus shipping, insurance, and a 14
day return... round total $600. That was pretty good I think even
though I have seen better on this forum. Agree?

I need advice so I can hit the water with some sort of organized
approach. I read some of the posts about the E-100rs and C-2100
UZI. Although have had a few second thoughts about my choice of an
UZI, overall I am happy with my choice, and waiting anxiously for
delivery... and fun!

Questions:

1) Was the UZI my best choice given my budget and requirements?
Should I have spent a little more for a E-100rs?

Most rowers go through a complete stroke, or cycle from catch to
finish and back to catch again in about 3 seconds when they are
early in their learning phase down to 2 seconds for a full cycle.
So max I would expect 6 sequences. I realize there will be some
luck involved to catch rowers at the right spot in their sequence
to point out the corrections they need to make. Movements of the
rowers are predictable and timed, so it is not quite like waiting
for a baseball, soccer, basketball, or football highlight. I am
hopeful I can capture what I need in a 3-5 stroke sequence or more
if possible to capture more than 10-15 seconds.

2) Woud the Quicktime movie feature be better than sequence shots
for teaching the rowers?

I was disappointed to read on this forum that the UZI Quicktime
movies aren't the greatest. I won't be trying to get the images
published in SI, but I want to be able to stop the image and show
people what they are doing, right or wrong. For publishable shots I
will clearly need HQ ro SHQ resolution still shots.

3) Should IS be off or on during sequence shots?

I see two possibilities here - 1) IS may successfuly stabilize the
image shaking that occurs in the motor launch I coach from. 2) It
may slow the sequence down so that I only get a few stills during a
3-5 stroke sequence.

4) Can I take longer sequences?

Not sure how many seconds are available to me for sequence shooting
in various modes.

5) Do you foresee problems with focus? What about manual focus
during sequence shots or quicktime movies?

My distance from the rowers may vary even during a 3-5 stroke
sequence if the launch is not directly alongside the rowers.

5) What about the mode?

I gather most will say to use p mode and fool with ISO, aperture,
and shutter speed to see what is optimal, but am still interested
in what people might have to suggest as a starting point and where
to go from there.

I am really looking forward to some specific replies. Comments on
the way I ask my questions welcome.
--
Phil the Oar
--Phil the Oar
 
I like the baggy and rubber band idea and found some threads about this solution. Including a how to.

Thanks Juli, this is a good idea and I will use it!

Phil Greipp
I can't address your questions, but it is very important to keep
your camera dry. I'd put it in a ziploc bag with the lens coming
out of a hole or something. These are little computers and they
don't do well when wet.
--
http://www.pbase.com/julivalley/galleries
21oo, B-3oo
3o4o
Juli
--Phil the Oar
 
Hey Phil,

Good luck with the new camera, I can sense your excitement.

Juli does know her s* ....opppsss....sorry, but I was going to mention that you should be very careful of the water.

Since you will be outside with natural light.

Start in P mode and then adjust your settings a little at a time.

If I had more time I would take a crack at your list of questions.

Maybe if my kids let me on the PC tonight.

Look forward to some pics.--DomDP-NJC-2100UZ http://www.pbase.com/domdp 'The quality of your life is determined by how you feel at any given moment. How you feel is determined by how you interpret what is happening around you, not by the events themselves.' --Brian Tracy--
 
Thanks to anyone who read my long story - it has already changed!

I am sending back the C2100 UZI and getting an E100rs. Seems much
better for my purposes.

Got it for $479.95 including shipping on Ebay from brandnewbuy.

Also got a 256MB Compact Flash by Ritek from Return buy on Ebay for
$117

Convinced I now have the right camera in the E100rs and enough
memory to start shooting, I am still wondering about the ideal
settings to start taking pictures of rowers in action.

Thanks for any help you all can give...

I look forward to posting photos on the forum!

Phil
The first thing you'll need to do is send the E100 back to Oly for repair of the CCD and/or low light focus problem, dust under the EVF and poorly positioned focus assist beam. Did I miss any? Once you get your camera back from the West Coast center, you'll probably want to stick a polarizer filter on since you'll be doing a lot of work near water glare. Here are the the things I have found that may be of help to you.

Leave the focus assist beam on even during the day. It seems to focus better with it on.

Use spot focus keeping in mind your background. If it is going to be bright sky, you may want to lock focus on, say, the boat, and then move the camera up putting the students in the frame. See what works to avoid turning them into black silhouettes.

Shoot at 5 fps. If you shoot at 15 fps, you're going to have more pics than you know what to do with and many of them are going to look very similar. 5 fps will, IMO, give you better feedback. Also, you can take still pics and turn them into movies using the software that comes with the cam and play them back at several different speeds. In other words, avoid movie mode.

ISO set to 100. WB on auto. SHQ mode. IS on.

These are just a few ideas to keep the thread active. Hopefully you'll get some advice from the real pros around here.

2b

ps - I think you made the right decision. This camera is fun!
 
I found the site for the waterproof pac that has been mentioned. More expensive than a baggy, but maybe safer?

http://www.aquapac.net/

Phil Greipp
What a wonderful forum - I have been reading for days and wish I
had come here sooner. I am enthusiastic about getting my first
digital camera soon. I have minimal SLR experience, and am about to
receive my UZI by UPS in a few days.

I coach rowing (crew) and want a camera to use 'on the water' to
take photos to show rowers how to improve their technique. Based on
information from a slew of sites, (before I got to this one) I
decided to buy an UZI. I based my decision on what I considered
some essential features: 10X Zoom, image stabilization, sequence
mode, rapid and sharp pictures. AND I wanted to stay under $700
total investment. Based on the experiences I have read about on
this forum, I think I made the right choice.

I ordered the UZI with an Exec pkg from Genesis Camera(new and not
grey market). The package includes 128MB card, 4 rechargeable
batteries and charger, shock protected bag, a 3 year Mack warranty
and some other stuff for $569 plus shipping, insurance, and a 14
day return... round total $600. That was pretty good I think even
though I have seen better on this forum. Agree?

I need advice so I can hit the water with some sort of organized
approach. I read some of the posts about the E-100rs and C-2100
UZI. Although have had a few second thoughts about my choice of an
UZI, overall I am happy with my choice, and waiting anxiously for
delivery... and fun!

Questions:

1) Was the UZI my best choice given my budget and requirements?
Should I have spent a little more for a E-100rs?

Most rowers go through a complete stroke, or cycle from catch to
finish and back to catch again in about 3 seconds when they are
early in their learning phase down to 2 seconds for a full cycle.
So max I would expect 6 sequences. I realize there will be some
luck involved to catch rowers at the right spot in their sequence
to point out the corrections they need to make. Movements of the
rowers are predictable and timed, so it is not quite like waiting
for a baseball, soccer, basketball, or football highlight. I am
hopeful I can capture what I need in a 3-5 stroke sequence or more
if possible to capture more than 10-15 seconds.

2) Woud the Quicktime movie feature be better than sequence shots
for teaching the rowers?

I was disappointed to read on this forum that the UZI Quicktime
movies aren't the greatest. I won't be trying to get the images
published in SI, but I want to be able to stop the image and show
people what they are doing, right or wrong. For publishable shots I
will clearly need HQ ro SHQ resolution still shots.

3) Should IS be off or on during sequence shots?

I see two possibilities here - 1) IS may successfuly stabilize the
image shaking that occurs in the motor launch I coach from. 2) It
may slow the sequence down so that I only get a few stills during a
3-5 stroke sequence.

4) Can I take longer sequences?

Not sure how many seconds are available to me for sequence shooting
in various modes.

5) Do you foresee problems with focus? What about manual focus
during sequence shots or quicktime movies?

My distance from the rowers may vary even during a 3-5 stroke
sequence if the launch is not directly alongside the rowers.

5) What about the mode?

I gather most will say to use p mode and fool with ISO, aperture,
and shutter speed to see what is optimal, but am still interested
in what people might have to suggest as a starting point and where
to go from there.

I am really looking forward to some specific replies. Comments on
the way I ask my questions welcome.
--
Phil the Oar
--Phil the Oar
 
2b - Thanks!

You wrote "The first thing you'll need to do is send the E100 back to Oly for repair of the CCD and/or low light focus problem, dust under the EVF and poorly positioned focus assist beam. ..."

Whoowie! This is scary stuff. I maybe be on the line again soon as I get the RS. Subject lines CCD repair; low light focus problem; dust in the EVF. I have seen threads about these problems. Since it is my first digicam, I don't know if I will even recognize the problems. I will try to take some pics and figure this out.

Glad you said I picked the right camera - I was beginning to worry alot! You aren't pulling my leg are you?

Phl (alias PhiltheOar)
Thanks to anyone who read my long story - it has already changed!

I am sending back the C2100 UZI and getting an E100rs. Seems much
better for my purposes.

Got it for $479.95 including shipping on Ebay from brandnewbuy.

Also got a 256MB Compact Flash by Ritek from Return buy on Ebay for
$117

Convinced I now have the right camera in the E100rs and enough
memory to start shooting, I am still wondering about the ideal
settings to start taking pictures of rowers in action.

Thanks for any help you all can give...

I look forward to posting photos on the forum!

Phil
The first thing you'll need to do is send the E100 back to Oly for
repair of the CCD and/or low light focus problem, dust under the
EVF and poorly positioned focus assist beam. Did I miss any? Once
you get your camera back from the West Coast center, you'll
probably want to stick a polarizer filter on since you'll be doing
a lot of work near water glare. Here are the the things I have
found that may be of help to you.

Leave the focus assist beam on even during the day. It seems to
focus better with it on.

Use spot focus keeping in mind your background. If it is going to
be bright sky, you may want to lock focus on, say, the boat, and
then move the camera up putting the students in the frame. See what
works to avoid turning them into black silhouettes.

Shoot at 5 fps. If you shoot at 15 fps, you're going to have more
pics than you know what to do with and many of them are going to
look very similar. 5 fps will, IMO, give you better feedback. Also,
you can take still pics and turn them into movies using the
software that comes with the cam and play them back at several
different speeds. In other words, avoid movie mode.

ISO set to 100. WB on auto. SHQ mode. IS on.

These are just a few ideas to keep the thread active. Hopefully
you'll get some advice from the real pros around here.

2b

ps - I think you made the right decision. This camera is fun!
--Phil the Oar
 
Nice weatherproofing story on a website - sounds like Juli... Plus carrying extra baggies and a towel sounds like a good idea.

Use a large self-sealing food bag to cover your camera when taking pictures in the rain. Cut a hole for the lens, and use your lens hood both to secure the bag around the lens and to shield the lens from falling rain. (And bring two or three extra bags.) You may want a haze or skylight filter to provide further protection. Keep a towel in a waterproof bag to dry your hands before handling your camera.

Phil
Phil
I found the site for the waterproof pac that has been mentioned.
More expensive than a baggy, but maybe safer?

http://www.aquapac.net/
They don't make one for SLR size cams and I guarantee the pics shot
thru the bag will be hazy.

2b
--
Phil the Oar
--Phil the Oar
 
2b - Thanks!

You wrote "The first thing you'll need to do is send the E100 back
to Oly for repair of the CCD and/or low light focus problem, dust
under the EVF and poorly positioned focus assist beam. ..."
A lot of the ReturnBuy (Newbuy, WhateverBuy) E100's exhibited the same problems; stuck, dead, or hot pixels; slow low light focus; dust under the EVF, wait, I'm repeating myself.
Whoowie! This is scary stuff. I maybe be on the line again soon as
I get the RS. Subject lines CCD repair; low light focus problem;
dust in the EVF. I have seen threads about these problems. Since it
is my first digicam, I don't know if I will even recognize the
problems. I will try to take some pics and figure this out.
You'll recognize them. You can run a dead pixel test but I prefer to just look at the pictures. If you see a white, green or red (those are the only colors I've seen) dot on your pics you've got a bad pixel. All digicams apparently have hot pixels at long exposures. You have to figure out what is acceptable to you as far as the emergence of hot pixels - 1 sec, 2 sec, etc.
Glad you said I picked the right camera - I was beginning to worry
alot! You aren't pulling my leg are you?
Not at all! I have this camera and I wouldn't trade it for anything on the market. When I buy another digital camera, I'm keeping this one. Does that say anything about the camera?

The main weekness of the E100 is it's megapixel rating. If you want to print glorious 8X10's that people will be inspecting with a magnifier, you're SOL. You can print mighty fine 8X10's to be enjoyed from a realistic distance - the distance you would be looking at it if you weren't analyzing it for print quality.

2b
 
Good move! I have an Uzi but for what you needed you changed to the best possible camera on the planet for what you have in mind...IMHO
I am sending back the C2100 UZI and getting an E100rs. Seems much
better for my purposes.

Got it for $479.95 including shipping on Ebay from brandnewbuy.

Also got a 256MB Compact Flash by Ritek from Return buy on Ebay for
$117

Convinced I now have the right camera in the E100rs and enough
memory to start shooting, I am still wondering about the ideal
settings to start taking pictures of rowers in action.

Thanks for any help you all can give...

I look forward to posting photos on the forum!

Phil
What a wonderful forum - I have been reading for days and wish I
had come here sooner. I am enthusiastic about getting my first
digital camera soon. I have minimal SLR experience, and am about to
receive my UZI by UPS in a few days.

I coach rowing (crew) and want a camera to use 'on the water' to
take photos to show rowers how to improve their technique. Based on
information from a slew of sites, (before I got to this one) I
decided to buy an UZI. I based my decision on what I considered
some essential features: 10X Zoom, image stabilization, sequence
mode, rapid and sharp pictures. AND I wanted to stay under $700
total investment. Based on the experiences I have read about on
this forum, I think I made the right choice.

I ordered the UZI with an Exec pkg from Genesis Camera(new and not
grey market). The package includes 128MB card, 4 rechargeable
batteries and charger, shock protected bag, a 3 year Mack warranty
and some other stuff for $569 plus shipping, insurance, and a 14
day return... round total $600. That was pretty good I think even
though I have seen better on this forum. Agree?

I need advice so I can hit the water with some sort of organized
approach. I read some of the posts about the E-100rs and C-2100
UZI. Although have had a few second thoughts about my choice of an
UZI, overall I am happy with my choice, and waiting anxiously for
delivery... and fun!

Questions:

1) Was the UZI my best choice given my budget and requirements?
Should I have spent a little more for a E-100rs?

Most rowers go through a complete stroke, or cycle from catch to
finish and back to catch again in about 3 seconds when they are
early in their learning phase down to 2 seconds for a full cycle.
So max I would expect 6 sequences. I realize there will be some
luck involved to catch rowers at the right spot in their sequence
to point out the corrections they need to make. Movements of the
rowers are predictable and timed, so it is not quite like waiting
for a baseball, soccer, basketball, or football highlight. I am
hopeful I can capture what I need in a 3-5 stroke sequence or more
if possible to capture more than 10-15 seconds.

2) Woud the Quicktime movie feature be better than sequence shots
for teaching the rowers?

I was disappointed to read on this forum that the UZI Quicktime
movies aren't the greatest. I won't be trying to get the images
published in SI, but I want to be able to stop the image and show
people what they are doing, right or wrong. For publishable shots I
will clearly need HQ ro SHQ resolution still shots.

3) Should IS be off or on during sequence shots?

I see two possibilities here - 1) IS may successfuly stabilize the
image shaking that occurs in the motor launch I coach from. 2) It
may slow the sequence down so that I only get a few stills during a
3-5 stroke sequence.

4) Can I take longer sequences?

Not sure how many seconds are available to me for sequence shooting
in various modes.

5) Do you foresee problems with focus? What about manual focus
during sequence shots or quicktime movies?

My distance from the rowers may vary even during a 3-5 stroke
sequence if the launch is not directly alongside the rowers.

5) What about the mode?

I gather most will say to use p mode and fool with ISO, aperture,
and shutter speed to see what is optimal, but am still interested
in what people might have to suggest as a starting point and where
to go from there.

I am really looking forward to some specific replies. Comments on
the way I ask my questions welcome.
--
Phil the Oar
--
Phil the Oar
--'Happy Shootin' !!!UZ'P'Shooter http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz http://www.pbase.com/otfgallery/uzpshooterMe & My UZI, Strollin Down The Avenue. Me & My UZI, Focusin On Somethin New. To 'UZe' Or Not To 'UZe'? That 'IS' The Question. Weather It 'IS' Nobler To Suffer Natures Outrageous Slings & Arrows? Or Go With Adobe? That's My Story & I'm Stickin To It. Take It Or Leave It
 
2b

I am printing all your stuff (priceless tips). Can't wait to show you some photos, but am prepared to send to the West Cost if needed. How comes the returnbuy cameras have so many problems?

My first photos will be of folks rowing indoors in an ergometer race. Then when the ice melts off the water here in MN I will have all the bugs, and dust and dead pixels taken care of.

Phil
2b - Thanks!

You wrote "The first thing you'll need to do is send the E100 back
to Oly for repair of the CCD and/or low light focus problem, dust
under the EVF and poorly positioned focus assist beam. ..."
A lot of the ReturnBuy (Newbuy, WhateverBuy) E100's exhibited the
same problems; stuck, dead, or hot pixels; slow low light focus;
dust under the EVF, wait, I'm repeating myself.
Whoowie! This is scary stuff. I maybe be on the line again soon as
I get the RS. Subject lines CCD repair; low light focus problem;
dust in the EVF. I have seen threads about these problems. Since it
is my first digicam, I don't know if I will even recognize the
problems. I will try to take some pics and figure this out.
You'll recognize them. You can run a dead pixel test but I prefer
to just look at the pictures. If you see a white, green or red
(those are the only colors I've seen) dot on your pics you've got a
bad pixel. All digicams apparently have hot pixels at long
exposures. You have to figure out what is acceptable to you as far
as the emergence of hot pixels - 1 sec, 2 sec, etc.
Glad you said I picked the right camera - I was beginning to worry
alot! You aren't pulling my leg are you?
Not at all! I have this camera and I wouldn't trade it for anything
on the market. When I buy another digital camera, I'm keeping this
one. Does that say anything about the camera?

The main weekness of the E100 is it's megapixel rating. If you want
to print glorious 8X10's that people will be inspecting with a
magnifier, you're SOL. You can print mighty fine 8X10's to be
enjoyed from a realistic distance - the distance you would be
looking at it if you weren't analyzing it for print quality.

2b
--Phil the Oar
 

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