The biggest draw to the truelife screens is the high contrast and
extra brightness making the images appear more saturated and
sharp.. on poor light. Indoors with no glare the matte screens
will be more accurate and show more detail.
First, I don't consider
any LCD on
any laptop to be a serious contender when it comes to the context of "accurate" color. I've supported thousands of laptop in my career, and my generic 19" Polyview desktop LCD at home blows the best of the mobile garbage away. Laptop displays are designed for power saving, low cost, being dropped and surving, impressing midgets and NBA stars on airplanes, and other considerations that degrade their performance for critical color work.
Next,
all laptop LCD displays, and the majority of desktop video subsystems in general are stroked to make Doom3 and XMen DVD's look better than Photoshop. Contrast ratios are hyped as much processor clock speeds, and I don't recall being in an Apple store or CompUSA lately where computer displays are viewed in a perfect, 5000k low lux room where you can judge the skin tone renderings prior to soft proofing.
Next, a glossy screen does not increase contrast nor does it distort. If it were the case, then I'll take fine grit sandpaper to all my lenses and my TV screen because buffing them will make them more accurate displays, right? While glossy screens are pain in the neck in terms of bright room reflections, it's matte screens that distort, not the other way around. Glossy screens show better black detail than matte, and they are sharper. This results in a better ability to see noise in shadow areas and correct it, and spot processing artifacts. If a glossy LCD is honestly too 'contrasty' for you, then learn how to lower the contrast via the LCD controls or the video properties and
THEN run your profile software.
For instance, my 'matte' screen polyview has a mediocre contrast ratio and is outdated in terms of brightness levels, and it's also set for 25% of it's ultimate contrast and brightness. Yet if I had a glossy option I'd take it in a heartbeat because I'd just calibrate accordingly. With a few other calibration tweaks my color and gamma accuracy is so bloody good I no longer bother soft proofing because what I see on screen is nearly a dead ringer for LightJet or ink-jet printing.
Unfortunatley, there has been an increasing trend towards working on hyper-bright LCDs and displays and letting your device profile compensate. Most of the Dell displays I've worked on lately if loaded with a 24 point grey step can't distinguish between the end wedges at all. A glossy screen certainly doesn't help that problem, but diffusing the display doesn't either.