My perspective of D80

raid123

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I bought a D80 a few days ago from the local Talls Camera. Previously I've owned Coolpix 990, then got one of the very first units of D70 that suffered BGLOD. I don't upgrade often as I only take pictures casually.

What drew me to the D80 was:

1) Bigger viewfinder
2) Bigger LCD
3) ISO 100
4) Better dynamic range
5) Better out of camera exposures
6) Less noise at high ISO

My initial observations of the camera:

1) Definitely smaller than the D70. The D70 was more comfortable to hold, because the grip was bigger and more natural. I don't have a big hand, but when I held the D80, my pinky was unsupported, so the pressure points made it less comfortable to hold with one hand compared to the D70. I suppose I could get used to it, but the D70 just felt better.

2) The viewfinder was definitely nice and had less of a tunnel vision effect. The LCD was gorgeous. Actually my pictures looked better on the LCD than on my laptop.

3) There was chromatic abberation in a few picture where there was high contrast. I know the lense is the biggest contributor to chromatic abberation, and the 18-200 VR isn't the best when it comes to this category, but perhaps the sensor makes it more prone to it. I took the same picture with the D70 and didn't see much chromatic abberation. I saw another thread on this issue, so while D70 may suffer from Moire, maybe D80 suffers from CA?

4) Quality control seems to have gone down. I saw a white spot on one of the pictures I took, and that's when I decided to take a picture of my table at iso 1600. Guess what... 5 hot pixels: two in the corner, and three in the center. I immediately took the camera back to the store (good thing I bought it locally), and they exchanged it for another. I had brought my laptop to the store, so I checked the other camera, and I found one hot green pixel. I understand that these sensors will never be perfect, but I expect hot pixels to be mapped away before leaving the factory. I certainly do not want to send it in on warranty immediately after purchase. I ran the same test on my D70 and found zero hot pixels after all these years.

In the end, I got my money back and I will be returning to my trusty D70 for a while. Until Nikon gets their act together in QC, I may leapfrog yet another generation of Digital Cameras.
 
No he returned it because he did not want to go home and send it to Nikon for service. What is so hard to understand about that?
So you returned it because you wanted 4,000,000 more pixels, but
only got 3,999,999? ;)
--
Everything happens for a reason.
  1. 1 reason: poor planning
 
I understand. I was joking. I have a d200 I really should send in to get the wonderful banding problem tweaked before it's a year old. -pain in the butt...

I bought an LCD monitor, and I was dreading the thought that it would show up with a couple dead pixels since that's not considered a defect. When I got it, it didn't have any I noticed. Recently I noticed a few that weren't there when it was new.

Maybe this is something we worry about too much. Is he going to be happier with a d70 because it doesn't have a dead pixel? Is he going to be happier rotating through the local store's stock of d80's looking for a perfect one?

Ignorance is bliss? Don't test your camera? heh
 
and that's when I decided to take a
picture of my table at iso 1600. Guess what... 5 hot pixels: two
in the corner, and three in the center.
... and I found one hot green pixel.
Someone help me understand why the use of 1600?

What is the proper way of testing for this? I have heard of hot pixels on the LCD that appear red on a black screen, but what kind of hot pixel is this referring to and does it really matter/show up on photos?
--

 
2) The viewfinder was definitely nice and had less of a tunnel
vision effect. The LCD was gorgeous. Actually my pictures looked
better on the LCD than on my laptop.
You might want to invest in a hardware monitor calibrator. Every monitor looks different, and probably none of them display color/gama/blackpoint/whitepoint/tempurature correctly. The lcd for my desktop is pretty much impossible to get correct without a hardware calibrator, after i got one, it is now near perfect. Well worth the price.
 
It can show up in photos under the right conditions. Have rarely noticed any myself with my d200. Very easy to fix in post processing, but a pain if you feel you have to examine all your pictures at 100% to find and fix them.
 
As much as I agree, you should get a perfect camera when you pay for a "quality" product, but going crazy over a few dead pixels @1600 ISO doesn't make sense to me.

Are we forgetten ISO on digital camera are emulation of old film standard? Are we forgetting a random hot pixel or two is easily fixable in Photoshop?
 
I thought it was just my bad luck with Nikon cameras in the past a few months. I had the same hot pixel problem with D200. Returned it for exchange for a D80. Now I have a different problem: dust like spots on CCD. Instead of hot pxels (5 in a group like a cross), the dust like spots are 25 pixels in diameter (search the threads I posted under my name to see details). What do I do? Return it to store for exchange again? Then I may get into the situation like you experienced. Fortunately the spots are located relatively to the side. So I may keep this D80. I do like Nikon's engineering but their QC sucks!
 
It can show up in photos under the right conditions. Have rarely
noticed any myself with my d200. Very easy to fix in post
processing, but a pain if you feel you have to examine all your
pictures at 100% to find and fix them.
Here is what I use to ease the pain, it come from a previous post on the same subject.
My Coolpix990 has 4 hot pixels and this is my work around in Photoshop CS2

1-Shoot a frame with the lens cap on at highest ISO
2-Load frame in CS2
3-zoom maximum to first hot pixel
4-Create an Action (mine is called 990 Hot Pixels)
5-With the Action recording grab the Patch tool
6-Patch the hot pixel to nearest good pixel (may show more than one)
7-Move to next hot pixel and repeat patch tool
8-After all hot pixels has been fixed do Select (Deselect)
9-Stop Action recording

From then on when working with an image run the Action and 99% of the time it should fix the problem unless the frame you are working the patch tool lands on a different color pixel and just fix that one manually.
 
I bought the D80 on Tuesday. When I brought it home, I snapped 3 photos and noticed that there was a bright green pixel dead center in the LCD (Not photo). Took it back and exchanged it for another. Im saving any comments until Adobe releases a compatible version of ACR.

As far as grip goes, yes it will take me some time to get used to holding it and even more so since I have a D70 and D70s. One thing I hate, is the AE lock button. My hand cannot bend the way it needs to press it with my thumb while holding the camera to take a photoand the button feels different in that you need more force applied to activate it. Other than this, I think it will take folks some time to grow with it. If you try to achieve the same results or better using the same technique with either the D50, D70(s) or D200, you will be disappointed. The photos I took today with it look way better than the photos I took on Tuesday when I first bought it. It will just take some time to learn how to get the type of shot you want even though we may think that it should act the same as other models.
--
Kevin
 
I bought the D80 on Tuesday. When I brought it home, I snapped 3
photos and noticed that there was a bright green pixel dead center
in the LCD (Not photo). Took it back and exchanged it for another.
If I bought one from a local store that had more in stock, I'd exchange it for that. But if I mail ordered it, or if the store had no stock, I'd probably live with a bad pixel on the back lcd.
 
What if you're someone like me that doesn't have a place to buy the D80 closer then 1 hour drive?

If I bought it online does that mean I can't get it fixed if there is a problem?
 

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