S3 IS action shot MotoX

Hi

I have uploaded some action shots I took last saturday using an S3IS as well as a 350 D .The light was very bad and it was also raining so I have done some PP work especially in levels .The AF is a bit hit and miss and on some of the "flying shots ,I had to get the rider to keep trying until I finally got the shot as I kept missing due to shutter lag and slower AF ,whereas the 350 just takes any instant shot on the run . Even the shot I am illustrating below is off centre but I'm not cropping it yet .I'm really enjoying my monthly MotoX shoot and am contemplating a faster lens like a 200 2.8 L which I dumbly sold a few months ago ,or an 70-200 F4 which I also sold a few months ago figuring I would not need to shoot fast moving items again .
http://www.pbase.com/trackpass/image/66417791.jpeg:
http://www.pbase.com/trackpass/september06_motox&page=2

I love the action shots. I have a question though.

What settings do you use on the camera (I just got an S3)

eg on IMG_1625.jpg I can see that it says "1/200s f/3.5 at 29.3mm (35mm equivalent: 487mm)"

but what settings would you use? I tried to take a photo of my son running (I know, not as fast as a bike) - I set it to the sports mode but it came our rather grainy.

Cheers
Ken

I noticed all the 350D shots showed ISO400. Was this on purpose, or were you using a certain program mode?

I also noticed the one S3 shot was a bit grainy. I was suprised since it is an outdoor shot. Do you happen to know what the ISO was on that one?

thanks

I usually just set it up in P mode and set the ISO at 80 up to 200 . For sports I set it to multi shot .Its useless above these settings due to noise .I normally just let the camera do the work ..The sports mode is too noisy as it sets the ISO high to make the shutter speed quicker I think .I'm no expert on the S3 ,its a fine camera but needs some learning .On most sports shots I just try to guess where the subject will arrive and aim and fire as it gets very near, its all very hit and miss and many shots are just empty sky or land .In the flying bike shots sometimes the bike hadnt arrived in frame when I fired .Another method is to track and wait for the slowest point in the air when its just about to start dropping to a landing . Another trick is to track the subject and fire off a sequence just before it arrives at your chosen point .Its worth persevering though and when it all comes together ,takes a good shot . These are just my methods ,I am sure there are better ones out there by people who have taken more time to learn the S3 .
martin
http://www.pbase.com/trackpass
http://www.trackpass.net

try with TV mode....it will come fine.
I tried TV mode in my very fast moving Fan at ceiling.....
amazingly it captured perfect stand stilll by S3 IS at 1/500 around

Why dont you use manual focus or focus lock and then go with the object till it reach your focus point From half press you hardly have shutterlag

Foto S3



Grts Bert

If the bike will be about 30 feet in front of you, would you turn around and focus lock on, say, a tree or something about 30 feet away, hold the half press, then turn around and track the bike?

thanks I will try it .I have used TV for motorsport to get some movement into a shot ,usually 1/180 or so to get blurred wheels and a sharp driver effect .I must confess that for the moto shots is was largly as it came as it was raining and no-one was driving in the corn stubble in the same place twice as there was no circuit marked .It was just before the local farmer started ploughing it all in . It well worth eperimenting with .
Martin

Nice shots!

That 200 2.8 L is a gem of a lens which I like to take when I want a lighter setup. I bought it used and won't be selling it! I also love my 70-200 f2.8 IS, one of the most versatile lenses I own. Canon is coming out with a 70-200 f4 IS soon, so you may want to wait for that. Don't sell your L lenses; you never know when you need some fast glass!

--
Way

I must confess I havn't tried manual focus with S3 yet though I often used MF for motor racing shots ,prefocusing on a certain spot on a corner ,usually as the brakes came off or apex of the corner .I often used a monopod and a 200 f2.8 with 2x extender .I also used to set my 28-70 F2.8 on a set point on a straight , exactly side on and shoot away blindly on MF .,,like a panoramic panning action .Sometimes I got a good shot ,usually I got a rear wing or nose only and mainly nothing but when I did get one it was great .I always aim for the drivers eyes ,even if I cannot see them .
martin

At present I can buy the 200 in the US for 585 USD which is about 300 UKP plus mail costs and possible duty say 400UKP so its worth getting .I loved the 70-200 F 4 but the UK light is not so bright most of the time so its a bit slow and the IS version is of no use to moving subjects .The 70-200 F2.8 is too heavy for me now. Another possible choice that may be interesting is the Tamron 180 F3.5 Macro .Not ideal for motoX,a bit slow , but has a fantastic macro which I find interesting,also the new Sigma 50-150 would do the job .It will probably be the 200 F2.8 .
martin

I normally set the camera to ISO 400 as a standard setting .The UK light is sometimes not as bright as people think and often duller than even we brits imagine so 400 is a good compromise .I used 200 the other day in sunny open countryside with my Tamron 28-75 and it was razor sharp , but usually its 400-800 .of course with faster lenses its OK to use low ISO's but I once shot for a whole day on 100 with a 70-200 F4 in fantastic sunny weather at a wildlife centre ..Only one shot was sharp ,they looked OK on the LCD but on the computer were all soft .it taught me a lesson about ISO that I had forgotten .The lens was OK at 400 and at 100 on a tripod so it was just lens shake . and animal movement .I should have checked shutter speeds,first rule .
Martin