Fighting shaking and blur

Started Nov 4, 2005 | Discussions thread
Alan 321 Regular Member • Posts: 179
Re: Fighting shaking and blur

I use a monopod with a hand-grip ball-head (manfrotto/bogen 222) and a quick release plate on the camera or lens. The hand grip makes it very quick and easy to level the camera after I have stretched the monopod. Nearly always the monopod will not be vertical. I prefer to have the monopod a little too long and then have its foot further away from me so that the monopod is leaning towards me for extra stability. The hand grip makes this easy to manage.

Usually I'll have the camera off the monopod when walking unless it's just a short distance. Otherwise I risk spearing somebody with the spike at the foot of the monopod.

Setting up the monopod is quicker when I leave the thinner parts of it stretched and only close up the top part. then I don't have as many clamps to undo and re-do, and they are closer to hand for quick operation. Speed is not usually the problem, but getting the length right is. It's much easier if you don't have to bend down to reach the bottom clamp to make the adjustments.

For the benefit of other readers, I leave the image stabiliser on for monopod work. This works because the setup is not nearly as stable as a tripod with remote trigger. All a monopod does is reduce the wobbles to more manageable levels and also take the weight of the lens off your left arm.

Regarding hand-held shutter speed the rule of thumb is for 1/focal length but that assumes firstly that you are as steady as the rest of them (not "us" - I'm like you) and secondly that you are using a full-frame 35mm camera. With the 1.6x crop the effect of motion is magnified as if you had a more telephoto lens and so 1/(2f) is perhaps more appropriate than 1/f. That and the higher resolution of the 20D may account for why we need the faster shutter speeds than we used to.

  • Alan

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