purple fringing FZ30

I am RobVisser from the Netherlands, I like this forum

I used a Oly E100RS for years, and for a week a have the FZ30.

Still testing, the question is some of my pictures have a lot of purple fringing( see swan body/neck), is that normal
one picture is stored on http://www.pbase.com/visserhome/fz30-purple fringing
Advice please
Rob from the Netherlands

Feel free to look at the other pictures
and sorry for my Englisch

Frob said:

I used a Oly E100RS for years, and for a week a have the FZ30.
Still testing, the question is some of my pictures have a lot of
purple fringing( see swan body/neck), is that normal
one picture is stored on http://www.pbase.com/visserhome/fz30-purple fringing

Click to expand...

FZ 30 has a new lens, FZ 20 had a very low PF (o whatever it is called). Viewing your photo, yes there is a LOT, and i have seen that FZ 30 has more than FZ 20.

One thing: i'm not sure it is PF or the IS playing games (movement). Test something like a building.

--
Costas

COSTAS
THANKS FOR YOU ADVICE
ROB

I think purple fringing is quite common in the border of white and darker background. I made some tests f the fenomen and noticed that it seems not to become from color aberration of the lens, but from bleeding of the red component in the chip. The direction of the the bleeding varies, depending not where in the pic the border with great contrast is.
Paint shop pro X has a filter for purple fringing that seems to function.
--
New gallery: http://koti.mbnet.fi/juhlofst/



Cheers, Jussi

I feel the FZ30 is much better than the FZ20 as far as fringing but if its going to happen it will be where the white is overexposed and against a darker background.
--
Gene
From Western PA.

Panasonic FZ-10 and FZ 20 and FZ30
B300
T Con 17 --two Tcon 14Bs -- Raynox 2020 pro -- DCR 720
http://imageevent.com/grc6/toshareonnet



Just trying to learn and it's slow going!

I think it's quite common in areas of high contrast. I often have
to correct for it on my FZ20, especially with a teleconverter attached.

The simplest thing to do, assuming you like the camera and
are going to keep it, is to correct in post-processing
(for me, in photoshop, I assume similar capabilities
in other advanced editors). Use the magic wand tool to
select the color range of purple you want to eliminate.
You may want to expand/contract the selection
to get just the right area, and feather it to smooth the transition
from the fringe area to the neighboring pixels.
Then use hue/saturation to desaturate and darken
the cyan and blue channels (and maybe magenta as well
if that presents an issue). Then deselect. All this is straightforward
to automate into an action in photoshop.

--
emil
--



http://theory.uchicago.edu/~ejm/pix/fz20/bird_galleries_2005/
http://theory.uchicago.edu/~ejm/pix/20d/

Hi Rob,

It's pretty common with most cameras including many dSLR's. I see it with some of my most expensive Canon dSLR's (EOS-1DS) and certain lens combinations at certain focal lengths.

The important thing is that it's easily fixed either as suggested by other posters or with inexpensive "actions" (assuming you have PhotoShop or PaintShop Pro 8). I took the liberty of removing it for you from this beautiful swan photo using a $10 PhotoShop or PaintShop Pro 8 "purple fringe remover" action by Shay Stephens

http://www.shaystephens.com/

Here's a link to the "fixed" image:

http://www.lin-evans.net/photos/swan.jpg

White-feathered birds are a special case, sometimes very difficult to expose properly and still get the background contrast one seeks. From my experience, your "Purple Fringing" would be reduced if not totally eliminated by reducing the exposure on your Swan shots. Here's a 100% crop of an Egret, an example of what I mean:



You can see varying shades of white, but with the brightest part, the bird's shoulder, there is a slight amount of purple fringing, even though if I reduced the exposure any more, the details of the face might be reduced. Another point to remember is that PF can be made worse if the focus is slightly off, so be very careful with your focussing. Good luck!
--
Just let a smile be your umbrella!

John Reed

EffZeeOneVeeTwo, EffZeeThirty

Thanks for all your advice, I am an P&S photographer,
but I shall upgrade my PP skills.
I deliver soon a good exposed Swan without purple edges

Rob

FZ30
E100RS
PAINTSHOP PRO 8
WWW.PBASE.COM/VISSERHOME

Thats the ticket and I bet you will.

In all fairness swans are tough in the sunlight.

For me it seems if I use spot meter to get the exposure of the swan correct is best for me, but I am sure there are other ways.

Frob said:

Thanks for all your advice, I am an P&S photographer,
but I shall upgrade my PP skills.
I deliver soon a good exposed Swan without purple edges

Rob

FZ30
E100RS
PAINTSHOP PRO 8
WWW.PBASE.COM/VISSERHOME

Click to expand...

--
Gene
From Western PA.

Panasonic FZ-10 and FZ 20 and FZ30
B300
T Con 17 --two Tcon 14Bs -- Raynox 2020 pro -- DCR 720
http://imageevent.com/grc6/toshareonnet



Just trying to learn and it's slow going!

When I purchased my FZ30 I reviewed the test pictures and saw very, very little PF. It seemed much better than a lot of camera's. I did not compare it against a FZ20, but I compared it against my C-8080, which I believe to be very good.

None the less, PF is present is all camera's under the right circumstances, even in pro level dSLR's. Trees against the sky are one of the worst conditions, and so are white swans!

The theory is that the white areas have a very high light intensity, which "bleeds" into the pixels next to them. Like holding you hand over a brig hlight, the red or purple is just the light leakage between pixels. With the tiny pixel size, light blockage can only be so good.

Underexposing, or spot metering on the white portion, certain helps. Otherwise you need to post process to remove it if it bothers you. There are some very effective ways to do this in Photoshop, but I don't know how they apply to other photo programs. Since purple is not a common color, it can be filtered out of the picture. Advanced techniques will use a mask so only the PF is affected. Doing a web search will reveal lots of articles.

You could try stopping down the aperture. This can sometimes reduce the effects of ca's. dlk.