Photo of UZI with Vivitar Flash, Bracket and Cable?

Sandman

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Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1 bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera? Also, if anyone thinks this is not the way to go for an accessory flash, then please speak up. I shot a lot of photos Tuesday evening at a meeting in a large room and was really using my zoom to frame in close on the speakers (I publish these photos in a newsletter). Man was I dissappointed when I got home. Lesson to Self: Your zoom has much greater "reach" than your Flash!

Thanks for any and all help. Man I love this camera and this forum is the best!

Jim
 
Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm
thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many
days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1
bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo
of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera? Also, if
anyone thinks this is not the way to go for an accessory flash,
then please speak up. I shot a lot of photos Tuesday evening at a
meeting in a large room and was really using my zoom to frame in
close on the speakers (I publish these photos in a newsletter).
Man was I dissappointed when I got home. Lesson to Self: Your zoom
has much greater "reach" than your Flash!

Thanks for any and all help. Man I love this camera and this forum
is the best!

Jim
The Vivitar 285 is a wonderful flash. I have had trouble using on the Vivitar bracket. Maybe buying the Olympus bracket and the right cable might work. I don't think that's the right cable for the UZI. Double check that.
 
Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm
thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many
days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1
bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo
of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera? Also, if
anyone thinks this is not the way to go for an accessory flash,
then please speak up. I shot a lot of photos Tuesday evening at a
meeting in a large room and was really using my zoom to frame in
close on the speakers (I publish these photos in a newsletter).
Man was I dissappointed when I got home. Lesson to Self: Your zoom
has much greater "reach" than your Flash!

Thanks for any and all help. Man I love this camera and this forum
is the best!

Jim
The Vivitar 285 is a wonderful flash. I have had trouble using on
the Vivitar bracket. Maybe buying the Olympus bracket and the
right cable might work. I don't think that's the right cable for
the UZI. Double check that.
Hello Jim, The Vivitar 283 is probably enough for the type flash shots you've described and it is less expensive than the 285. The cable required is the CB-04 to connect with the male end of the Vivitar cable from the flash. Any L bracket will do. I presently have a 15 year old 283 and with the correct Oly cable it blasts the area with light.

John R.
 
Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm
thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many
days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1
bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo
of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera? Also, if
anyone thinks this is not the way to go for an accessory flash,
then please speak up. I shot a lot of photos Tuesday evening at a
meeting in a large room and was really using my zoom to frame in
close on the speakers (I publish these photos in a newsletter).
Man was I dissappointed when I got home. Lesson to Self: Your zoom
has much greater "reach" than your Flash!

Thanks for any and all help. Man I love this camera and this forum
is the best!

Jim
The Vivitar 285 is a wonderful flash. I have had trouble using on
the Vivitar bracket. Maybe buying the Olympus bracket and the
right cable might work. I don't think that's the right cable for
the UZI. Double check that.
Hello Jim, The Vivitar 283 is probably enough for the type flash
shots you've described and it is less expensive than the 285. The
cable required is the CB-04 to connect with the male end of the
Vivitar cable from the flash. Any L bracket will do. I presently
have a 15 year old 283 and with the correct Oly cable it blasts the
area with light.

John R.
I couldn't seem to get this to work. The end of the CB-04 was the same as the end of the Vivitar pc cable. Is there another type of pc cord with male ends on both ends?
 
The Vivitar 285HV works great with the Oly Bk-01 bracket and CB-01 cable. The cable connects the camera to the connector on the bracket, which energizes the hot shoe on the bracket. There is no cable between the flash and camera with this setup. The advantage of this setup is that if there is any possibilty of you buying the Oly FL-40 in the future you will already have the cable and bracket (for which there is no substitute if you want to use the FL-40.

The Vivitar 285HV also works great with a cheaper generic bracket and the CB-04 cable. The CB-04 plugs into the camera, the other end plugs into the supplied cable that comes with the 285HV. The advantage of this is it saves about $30 over the Oly BK01+CB01 route. The disadvantage of the generic bracket+CB04 is that if you decide to later get the FL-40 flash you will be out another $100 to buy the BK-01+CB01.

Holland
 
Thanks Holland and all. ANd if you ever see a photo of the UZI and this flash setup, please drop me a line. I just wanna see what it looks like.

Jim
The Vivitar 285HV works great with the Oly Bk-01 bracket and CB-01
cable. The cable connects the camera to the connector on the
bracket, which energizes the hot shoe on the bracket. There is no
cable between the flash and camera with this setup. The advantage
of this setup is that if there is any possibilty of you buying the
Oly FL-40 in the future you will already have the cable and bracket
(for which there is no substitute if you want to use the FL-40.

The Vivitar 285HV also works great with a cheaper generic bracket
and the CB-04 cable. The CB-04 plugs into the camera, the other end
plugs into the supplied cable that comes with the 285HV. The
advantage of this is it saves about $30 over the Oly BK01+CB01
route. The disadvantage of the generic bracket+CB04 is that if you
decide to later get the FL-40 flash you will be out another $100 to
buy the BK-01+CB01.

Holland
 
Jim,

This is the C2100UZ with Oly Bk-01 bracket, CB-01 Cable and Vivitar 285HV flash.

Obviously I am not a product photographer.

http://www.pbase.com/image/270349

Holland
Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm
thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many
days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1
bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo
of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera?
 
Thanks for the picture...looks great.
Had 2 questions...
1) Where did you get the "eye piece" I've been looking for one.

2) What is taped to the top of the flash door?

Thanks...looks like a good setup.

DoN
This is the C2100UZ with Oly Bk-01 bracket, CB-01 Cable and Vivitar
285HV flash.

Obviously I am not a product photographer.

http://www.pbase.com/image/270349

Holland
Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm
thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many
days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1
bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo
of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera?
 
I just got a flash bracket the a pro photographer showed me a while back. Ever notice the shadow left behind someones head when they are near a wall and you don't use bounce?

The Stroboframe Press-T bracket cost $80 from B&H but it is worth ever penny. It mounts your flash directly above the lens so shadows fall directly behing the subject, so you don't see them. What's really neat is there is a pivot that folds over and puts your flash directly over the lens in portrait also.

Say goodbye to shadows even when the ceiling is too high to bounce.

Steve
Jim
This is the C2100UZ with Oly Bk-01 bracket, CB-01 Cable and Vivitar
285HV flash.
http://www.pbase.com/image/270349

Holland
 
DoN

I got the rubber eye guard from Fred, a fellow 2100 user who bought a bunch for the 2100 email list subscribers. I don't think he has any more, but you can buy it at:

http://www.telescope.com/cgi-bin/OrionTel.storefront/3b897c0e00e4771c271dc0a80a0c06ac/Product/View/E901

The guard is only $3.99, but they have $6-8 minimum shipping charge I think.

The white slips taped to the top of the flash cover on my 2100 are cheat-sheets, reminding me of which symbols shoot the most red and blue for various white balance settings.

As a general rule do not use auto white balance with external flashes unless you are using the FL-40, and even then setting manual white balance usually gets more consistent results.

Holland
2) What is taped to the top of the flash door?

Thanks...looks like a good setup.

DoN
This is the C2100UZ with Oly Bk-01 bracket, CB-01 Cable and Vivitar
285HV flash.

Obviously I am not a product photographer.

http://www.pbase.com/image/270349

Holland
Well, I've been thinking about buying an accessory flash. I'm
thinking about going the Vivitar 285HV route, as recommended many
days ago by Holland (I think). He also recommended the OLY BK1
bracket and the OLY CB01 cable. Does anyone happen to have a photo
of what this looks like when mounted ont he camera?
 
I once read a photographer's comments on getting good pictures, to the effect that good photgraphy was more about managing shadows than managing light.

I've seen the Stoboframe but not used it. Lots of folks swear by it. A small stool will help the shadow problem too if your subject is tall and you are short.
And of course, try not to shoot with a close wall behind the subject.

Holland
The Stroboframe Press-T bracket cost $80 from B&H but it is worth
ever penny. It mounts your flash directly above the lens so
shadows fall directly behing the subject, so you don't see them.
What's really neat is there is a pivot that folds over and puts
your flash directly over the lens in portrait also.

Say goodbye to shadows even when the ceiling is too high to bounce.

Steve
Jim
This is the C2100UZ with Oly Bk-01 bracket, CB-01 Cable and Vivitar
285HV flash.
http://www.pbase.com/image/270349

Holland
 
This may be a dumb question, but would this set-up work on the C3000? Also, I read something before about not being able to turn off the internal camera flash when any external flash save the FL-40 is connected...is this true?
 
The white slips taped to the top of the flash cover on my 2100 are
cheat-sheets, reminding me of which symbols shoot the most red and
blue for various white balance settings.

As a general rule do not use auto white balance with external
flashes unless you are using the FL-40, and even then setting
manual white balance usually gets more consistent results.

Holland
...for sharing your info... but I can't quite make out your "cheat-sheets"...8)

...can you elaborate on using the manual WB settings with the 2100 that has set WB modes, and/or the 2040, that has color correction?...or is it all too variable to suggest anything but trial and error?...
...thanks again,
newby
...PS...I have the Sunpak 555 with 04 cable, but haven't played with it much...
 
I don't have the 2040, but would be surprised if the white balance functions were much different than the 2100.

The problem with auto white balance and flash (particularly external flash, but somewhat with the built-in flash) is the variation from shot to shot. If you are only taking one or two shots it doesn't matter much. But I am fairly sure that most people reading these forums shoot lots of pictures.

Say you are at a family birthday party, shooting flash. In auto white balance mode the camera sensor picks up the light from both the ambient (lamps, windows, etc) and flash light. The camera tries the neutralize the tint with auto white balance. Now you take a second picture, a few feet away from the first. The proportions of flash and ambient light will now be different. Camera again tries to neutralize the tint. The individual photos may look pretty good, but when set next to each other the skin tones of one or the other are off. Now repeat this for 50 or 500 shots. You end up with skin tones of all differnt colors, many look ok in isolation, but as a group look terrible.

Ah! you say, just correct the white balance in software after shooting. Yes you can do this, but it is still almost impossible to get a good result when all are a little differerent.

The solution: Use manual white balance. For most indoor shots with the 2100 the clouds setting looks best in my setup. Now what happens is that there will be a natural variation in skin tones depending on the lighting, just like what your eye sees. Not only that, if there is a tint problem (i.e. you picked fluorescent WB rather than clouds) you can apply the same amount of correction to ALL your pics from that shoot at one time. Many software packages can apply a correction automatically to all the files in a directory. Far faster, easier, and gets a better result.

Holland
"cheat-sheets"...8)
...can you elaborate on using the manual WB settings with the 2100
that has set WB modes, and/or the 2040, that has color
correction?...or is it all too variable to suggest anything but
trial and error?...
 
Holland,

Very helpful info. You da man!

Jim
The problem with auto white balance and flash (particularly
external flash, but somewhat with the built-in flash) is the
variation from shot to shot. If you are only taking one or two
shots it doesn't matter much. But I am fairly sure that most people
reading these forums shoot lots of pictures.

Say you are at a family birthday party, shooting flash. In auto
white balance mode the camera sensor picks up the light from both
the ambient (lamps, windows, etc) and flash light. The camera tries
the neutralize the tint with auto white balance. Now you take a
second picture, a few feet away from the first. The proportions of
flash and ambient light will now be different. Camera again tries
to neutralize the tint. The individual photos may look pretty good,
but when set next to each other the skin tones of one or the other
are off. Now repeat this for 50 or 500 shots. You end up with skin
tones of all differnt colors, many look ok in isolation, but as a
group look terrible.

Ah! you say, just correct the white balance in software after
shooting. Yes you can do this, but it is still almost impossible to
get a good result when all are a little differerent.

The solution: Use manual white balance. For most indoor shots with
the 2100 the clouds setting looks best in my setup. Now what
happens is that there will be a natural variation in skin tones
depending on the lighting, just like what your eye sees. Not only
that, if there is a tint problem (i.e. you picked fluorescent WB
rather than clouds) you can apply the same amount of correction to
ALL your pics from that shoot at one time. Many software packages
can apply a correction automatically to all the files in a
directory. Far faster, easier, and gets a better result.

Holland
"cheat-sheets"...8)
...can you elaborate on using the manual WB settings with the 2100
that has set WB modes, and/or the 2040, that has color
correction?...or is it all too variable to suggest anything but
trial and error?...
 
The problem with auto white balance and flash (particularly
external flash, but somewhat with the built-in flash) is the
variation from shot to shot. If you are only taking one or two
shots it doesn't matter much. But I am fairly sure that most people
reading these forums shoot lots of pictures.

Say you are at a family birthday party, shooting flash. In auto
white balance mode the camera sensor picks up the light from both
the ambient (lamps, windows, etc) and flash light. The camera tries
the neutralize the tint with auto white balance. Now you take a
second picture, a few feet away from the first. The proportions of
flash and ambient light will now be different. Camera again tries
to neutralize the tint. The individual photos may look pretty good,
but when set next to each other the skin tones of one or the other
are off. Now repeat this for 50 or 500 shots. You end up with skin
tones of all differnt colors, many look ok in isolation, but as a
group look terrible.

Ah! you say, just correct the white balance in software after
shooting. Yes you can do this, but it is still almost impossible to
get a good result when all are a little differerent.

The solution: Use manual white balance. For most indoor shots with
the 2100 the clouds setting looks best in my setup. Now what
happens is that there will be a natural variation in skin tones
depending on the lighting, just like what your eye sees. Not only
that, if there is a tint problem (i.e. you picked fluorescent WB
rather than clouds) you can apply the same amount of correction to
ALL your pics from that shoot at one time. Many software packages
can apply a correction automatically to all the files in a
directory. Far faster, easier, and gets a better result.

Holland
"cheat-sheets"...8)
...can you elaborate on using the manual WB settings with the 2100
that has set WB modes, and/or the 2040, that has color
correction?...or is it all too variable to suggest anything but
trial and error?...
 

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