Dimage G500/G600 action/profile from RAW

Started Dec 29, 2004 | Discussions thread
Jim Cockfield Forum Pro • Posts: 16,342
Yes, it has RAW...

RAW is available under a hidden menu. But, be VERY CAREFUL not to go into any of the Autofocus Calibration Screens. AS soon as you enter one of these menus, the camera will begin an Autofocus Calibration with no further warning.

This will screw up you Autofocus, badly! You have to calibrate the focus under controlled conditions with measurements to test targets, etc. So, I'd very strongly advise that you do not enter any other menus with anything to do with Autofocus.

To shoot RAW, do the following at your own risk:

Press and hold menu button (standard menu will appear in the display)

Press and hold shutter button

(at this point, both the menu button and shutter button are still held down)

Then (while continuing to hold the menu button and shutter button down throughout the sequence below):

2xTELE (press right zoom button twice)
1xWIDE (press left zoom button once)
(a blue information screen appears here)
TRASH (press trashcan icon button once)
PLAY (press upper left button on back of camera)
2xTELE (press right zoom button twice)
1xWIDE (press left zoom button once)

The developer menu will appear (you can release the shutter button and menu button now).

Select "RAW Data Mode". The camera will then shoot in RAW (even though the files have a .JPG Extension) until you power it off. Then, it will go back to normal operation.

Do not attempt to go into the other menus. For example, if you select AF Calibrate, it will immediately begin a calibration of the Autofocus, and it WILL mess it up badly

You will not be able to preview the images in the camera. In this respect, it will be like using film (you can't see what the photos look like until you convert the RAW files into another format later using software).

Likewise, I have not tested it enough to tell if it could damage anything (for example, how the camera may handle it if the media becomes full).

You can use dcraw.c to convert the RAW files directly to 24 bit .PPM files, or 48-bit .PSD files.


You can get precompiled .exe files for Windows and Mac platforms from here:


I'd suggest starting with the following command line argument:

dcraw -w -g 0.45 -b 0.9 pict6647.jpg

(substitute a different filename for pict6447.jpg image). Note that even though the filename ends with .jpg, it's a RAW file. It runs around 10mb on the KD-510z/G500, so it may be a tiny bit larger with the G600.

This setting should be a very good starting point to bring out the most detail. Although it now appears hazy from the settings, you actually have more shadow detail this way.

Then, use USM (Unsharp Mask) for local contrast enhancement to reduce the haze, followed by USM with different settings to sharpen the image.

Remember, no contrast enhancement or sharpening was applied by the camera, so you'll have to perform these steps.

I'd read through the section in the Konica-Minolta FAQ for information on local contrast enhancement using USM (doing this prior to sharpening). You'll need to experiment with settings for best results.


Should you ever accidently go into the AF Calibration menu and mess up your Autofocus, you may need to setup test targets in broad daylight in order to calibrate somewhat close again. But, please don't go into this menu -- you'll never get perfect.

Just so you'll know how to do it -- from the hidden menus:

Setup your camera on a tripod at 2.54 meters (100 inches) from a test target with lots of light and good contrast.

Scroll down to and select the AF Adjust Menu (Note that as soon as you select it, AF calibration will begin, so MAKE SURE you have everything exactly as it should be before you enter this menu choice).

After the sequence is completed, WAIT until it exits back to the developer menu before powering off the camera (just close the cover at the developer menu).

If any errors appear on the screen while the AF Calibration is being performed, then you will need to recalibrate the camera.

If you are not experiencing severe focus problems, I strongly recommend you don't do this procedure. I'm still experimenting with it myself (my camera focused fine before, but curiousity got the best of me). To be frank, I still don't think I've got it quite as good as it was from the factory -- even after numerous calibrations -- experimenting with different test target distances.

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