G1 nodal point

Started Jun 6, 2001 | Discussions thread
OP aeropic Contributing Member • Posts: 589
Re: G1 nodal point

Hi Ruvy,

Most often, when you capture landscape panorama (I mean outside) there are very few objects close to te objective. So when you rotate the camera, you don't suffer a lot from paralax effects and the images can be quite well stiched.

At the opposite, try to make an indoor panorama, and you will see that rotating not at the nodal point (see the links given on this thread) genrate some shifts between objects that are not at the same depth. When you try to stitch two pictures with shifted objects, it is quite impossible to do, so the softare introduces some blurr area to accomodate this problem ...

The nodal point is the accurate point around which you must rotate to avoid this parralax. It is depending on the focal lenght (which is not the same thing ...)


Ruvy wrote:
Forgot one important question (told you I'm not the brightest) is
it the focal length that matter or is it the accurate position of
the camera on the tripod that matters? After all we set it usually
to widest angle... or am I missing something?


Ruvy wrote:
Hi Alain

Thanks for this post. I have been doing panoramas at work for
nearly 30 years none on a tripod and never too concerned with
accuracy of nodal point. That could mean two thing 1-I am not the
brightest... 2-It is not that critical - at least not for my use.

With digital I either use the viewfinder but than can't use the
pano stich or use the pano stich but than need to get the camera
even further than the axis of my body/head and errors mounting.

Thanks for bringing it up and many thaks the guys who responded -
great information


alain wrote:
Thanks for the links, I'll visit those sites.
You are right 2 measurements full tele and full wide would be a
good startpoint !


WHY wrote:
digitalkamera.de has a chart of nodal points; however, the G1 is
not listed. Once one of us determines the G1 nodal points, they can
be submited.

digitalkamera.de's guide to finding your digicam's nodal point(s)
is here:

panoguide.com's guides to finding and testing found nodal points:

What bugs me about finding nodal points for the G1's zoom lens is
that there's no numerical indicator of zoom length while shooting,
so we have to nodal for either of the 2 known zoom values of
extreme wide or extreme tele.

alain wrote:

To generate proper panorama, it's best to rotate around the nodal
point so that to points at different depths keep aligned during

Has anybody measured the distance of the focal point for the G1 at
different focal lenghts ?

thank you

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