G1 Flash Photograph 101

Started May 21, 2001 | Discussions thread
OP Michael w Regular Member • Posts: 487
Re: This rant isn't logical

Yes, you're doing something wrong. You probably had the camera in P, Tv or Av, not M mode -- we're talking about manual photography here, so you need to set that dial to M. In M mode there is no way of adjusting down the internal flash. Trust me, there are valuable things you can in M mode that you simple cannot do in any of the AE modes; that's why there is an M on that dial at the first place. Beside, who wants to do optical synch out there on the beach or on the boat?

The issue is not about not being able to add a $50 flash. It is about not being able to do manual flash the proper way unless you spend the $$$ for a Canon 550EX. And even that still doesn't solve the problem for those whoe needs a clean way to synch a studio flash.

Michael

Bryan Siverly wrote:
I'm seriously trying to be patient with this rant, but it always
falls apart on me when I try to think it out logically.

You buy a new digicam for nearly $900 (or $800 if you manage a good
deal). Add another $100 at least for a decent compact flash or
maybe $400-500 for a microdrive. Spend some other bucks for maybe
the LensMate and some filters.

And we're quibbling because we can't add a $50 flash?

Funny... just for kicks, I bought the little Sunpak digicam flash
with the built in slave for maybe $35 (even came with a little
tripod), though I have the 420EX. It has a built in slave, and I
set the G1 for flash compensation to the absolute lowest setting
(just enough to fire the slave). This combination works perfectly
for me, but maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I guess I should be stomping my feet and shaking my finger at
Canon. Silly me for being busy taking pictures instead.

Bryan

Michael W. wrote:

Evidently many people still don't understand the issues about
manual flash that Peter T., myself and a few others tried to
explain in the "Canon's attitude" thread. This post is dedicated
to EXPLAIN the situation. If you know for fact anything I say is
technically wrong then correct me. I'm not solicity opinion on
this thread. If after reading this you want to further express you
opinion on the issue then please go to the "Canon's Attitude"
thread. I'm going to get pretty basic, so don't feel insulted if
some of the things I say are too fundamental. Thank you very much.

1. Universal Manual Flash Basic:
To set exposure for a manual direct flash, one typically use the
basic rule:

a. Set shutter at or slower than maximum synch speed supported by
the camera. G1 manual specifies 1/125 second.

b. Set apperture to: Ap = GN / distance. For example to shoot an
object at 30 ft away at ISO 50 using a flash with Guide Number of
80 ft @ ISO 50, set apperture to 4.0. Note that guide number is
dependent on ISO setting, so you must ensure to use the correct GN.
In manual flash the camera does not attempt to adjust intensity of
the flash, it simply tells the flash to fire at full strength. A
manual flash rated at 120 ft GN if set at 1/4 power ratio will act
like a a 60 ft GN flash.

c. Both ambience light and the flash light will affect the
exposure. It is the photographer's responsibility to account for
ambience light and make adjustment to get perfect exposure.

d. Adjustment rule: higher apperture number will reduce the
exposure of both flash light and ambience light, thus at f5.6 you
would expect the picture to be 1 stop DARKER than at f4.0 and so on
so forth. Adjustment of speed (within specified maximum synch)
only affect the ambience light and not the flash light because the
entire flash duration always occurs while the camera aperture is
open at the specified setting. Flash duration is typically between
1ms to 2 ms (1/1000 to 1/500 seconds).

c. Bounce flash is less straight forward, but the same rule of
adjustment is the same: f5.6 is to be darker than f4.0, f4.0 is to
be dark0er than f2.8, so on so forth.

2. What Happens to Manual Flash with G1?
If you shoot with a Canon 420EX or 550EX, everything happens as
described above. When you put ANY standard non-Canon strobe on it
this happens: the flash will fire shortly BEFORE the aperture
stabilizes at the intended aperture. For example, if you set the
camera to f5.6 at 1/125 the actual aperture goes through a very
brief transition phase before the aperture actually stabilizes at
f5.6. During this transition phase the aperture can be any value,
be it f2.0 or whatever. What happens is that the G1 will fire your
non-Canon flash during this transition phase in stead of waiting
until the aperture reaches the intended value. Yet, somehow it
manages to do the right thing whenever an EX flash is mounted on.
Selective wrong doing!

3. E-TTL and Standard 3rd-party Flashes
E-TTL does not support 3rd-party flashes. The G1 and other Canon
cameras are designed to NEVER activate E-TTL unless an EX flash is
detected. So no relationship exists between E-TTL and standard
manual flashes. No photographer in the right mind would expect the
camera to adjust exposure for him/her while taking a manual flash
shot with a manual flash unit.

4. G1 Supports E-TTL, why bother with manual flashes?
E-TTL is simply a form of automatic exposure in flash mode. As
with any automatic exposure system, it cannot produce good results
in all lighting conditions such as shooting against back-lit scenes
and difficult flash fill situations. For some one who don't want
to deal with the complexity of manual flash photography it E-TTL
makes perfect sense. But if one know enough about flash
photography that he/she can consistently achieve better results
using manual flash techniques, why bother?

5. The 380EX and 420EX will fire in manual mode, why not use it?
Neither of these allows ratio down, making manual flash
impractical. A good manual flash would allow ratio down to 1/2,
1/4, 1/8, 1/16, etc.

6. 550EX fully supports manual flash, why not use it?
If the price is the same as my Sunpak 383 ($69), this would have
been a valid question.

Michael

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