Z3 firmware no ok?

z2user

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I read about the problems with the Z3 and elder firmware. Did the new firmware solve all the problems?
 
Yeah, I've had no problems really.

The only thing I have had it do is the lcd went all wierd and covered in interference - it fiixed itself when I pressed a button, but it definitely was a bug. I can give a wholehearted recommendation though.

Aaron

http://www.RebelAnt.com
The topic should be "Z3 firmware no_w_ ok?" Sorry for the typo
 
I can say yes..... most people have reported there Z3's work better now.

For me, I only had an occassional lock-up. Now I have none so far.

I lost a lot of time (clock lost a lot of time), but now it's accurate (most of the time). I still check periodically. It was off by an hour last week.

The other problems people had, I didn't have so I can't say if there was any improvement.
I read about the problems with the Z3 and elder firmware. Did the
new firmware solve all the problems?
 
I didn't have much of a problem before, and 1.02 seem to work great.

I'd say that there are no problems to report.

The cam can work miracles in capable hands and
do them much faster than many other cams. :)

F
I read about the problems with the Z3 and elder firmware. Did the
new firmware solve all the problems?
 
Same story as Microsaft for me too.

A brilliant camera.

One thing to remember : watch the parameters on a very sunny day. A lot of first timers do not do that and get over-exposed photos and the only reason is that with a top shutter speed of only 1/1000, the camera very occasionally does not have the capacity to have the right parameters for a properly exposed picture even at ISO 50, 1/1000, and smallest aperture, particularly if the picture contains items and surfaces that reflect the light. So, if the camera shows you a RED 1/1000, use the exposure compensation to mark it to -1.0 or -2.0 to get a properly exposed picture.

Don't let this put you off - there REALLY aren't many times when this happens, but it definitely can happen - most times it will be when photographing on a really really bright sunny day over calm water (whether sea, river, or lake).

I recommend the Z3 with 1.02 firmware totally.

ATWTUT
I'd say that there are no problems to report.

The cam can work miracles in capable hands and
do them much faster than many other cams. :)

F
I read about the problems with the Z3 and elder firmware. Did the
new firmware solve all the problems?
 
One thing to remember : watch the parameters on a very sunny day.
A lot of first timers do not do that and get over-exposed photos
and the only reason is that with a top shutter speed of only
1/1000, the camera very occasionally does not have the capacity to
have the right parameters for a properly exposed picture even at
ISO 50, 1/1000, and smallest aperture, particularly if the picture
contains items and surfaces that reflect the light. So, if the
camera shows you a RED 1/1000, use the exposure compensation to
mark it to -1.0 or -2.0 to get a properly exposed picture.
That's very interesting. I get overexposed pictures with s Z2 (not Z3!) especially with flash wonder why.

Do you mean, that you can get overexposed pics with "full auto" too? What can you do, when you want pictures indoors with "enough" light, so the flash sometimes starts and then not. With flash the pics are overexposted, without underexposed, because the camera is irritated by the light from the window.
 
Firmware 1.02 I have had two lock ups. One time when using the movie mode it died but the red light stayed on to say it was using the memory card. I had to take the batteries out and fortunately it didnt damage the data on the card.

The second lock up/battery removal incident came after changing the shutter speed on S and then trying to change EV on P mode.

Most definitely not fixed - heres hoping for 1.03, or 1.04 or 1.15 or however long it takes them to fix what should have been sorted out before release.
One thing to remember : watch the parameters on a very sunny day.
A lot of first timers do not do that and get over-exposed photos
and the only reason is that with a top shutter speed of only
1/1000, the camera very occasionally does not have the capacity to
have the right parameters for a properly exposed picture even at
ISO 50, 1/1000, and smallest aperture, particularly if the picture
contains items and surfaces that reflect the light. So, if the
camera shows you a RED 1/1000, use the exposure compensation to
mark it to -1.0 or -2.0 to get a properly exposed picture.
That's very interesting. I get overexposed pictures with s Z2 (not
Z3!) especially with flash wonder why.

Do you mean, that you can get overexposed pics with "full auto"
too? What can you do, when you want pictures indoors with "enough"
light, so the flash sometimes starts and then not. With flash the
pics are overexposted, without underexposed, because the camera is
irritated by the light from the window.
 
One thing to remember : watch the parameters on a very sunny day.
A lot of first timers do not do that and get over-exposed photos
and the only reason is that with a top shutter speed of only
1/1000, the camera very occasionally does not have the capacity to
have the right parameters for a properly exposed picture even at
ISO 50, 1/1000, and smallest aperture, particularly if the picture
contains items and surfaces that reflect the light.
Even directly sunlight on snow or sand is only EV 16.

So, at ISO 50, for a 1/1000 second shutter speed, you'd need to be at f/5.6 for proper exposure.

Surely, the aperture stops down further than this, doesn't it?
So, if the
camera shows you a RED 1/1000, use the exposure compensation to
mark it to -1.0 or -2.0 to get a properly exposed picture.
The way exposure compensation works is by using a faster shutter speed and/or smaller aperture if you use -EV setting; or by using a slower shutter speed and/or larger aperture if you use a +EV setting.

So, if the camera is already at ISO 50, and using the smallest available aperture, and fastest available shutter speed, then exposure compensation should not be able to do anything.

Are you sure that you're not mistaken about the ISO speed being 50 when you see this occur?

--
JimC
------
http://www.pbase.com/jcockfield/konica_kd510z
 
ATWTUT wrote:
So, if the camera is already at ISO 50, and using the smallest
available aperture, and fastest available shutter speed, then
exposure compensation should not be able to do anything.

Are you sure that you're not mistaken about the ISO speed being 50
when you see this occur?
I setup in the menu ISO 50 manually and I know, that this doesn't work with "auto".. I will pay attention to this issue in the future.
 
Most definitely not fixed - heres hoping for 1.03, or 1.04 or 1.15
or however long it takes them to fix what should have been sorted
out before release.
There is an 1.03 released already.
Really ???
Goes of in search..
Oh, I am very sorry. My Z2 has 1.03. For the Z2 I only know

http://download2.minoltaeurope.com/OpenMind/Technic/SWFW/mswdipho.nsf/ShowResultsFw?OpenAgent&distribution=ME&language=de&product=DiMAGE%20Z3&productlanguage=German&textall=--%20Alle%20

Konica Minolta DiMAGE Z3 Firmware Update Ver. 1.02 Important Note:
Please read carefully the "DiMAGE_Z3_Udate_Ver_102.pdf" file for
detailed instructions on how to update the cameras firmware!
Contents of update Corrected the following problems: 1. The
horizontal line noise appears along the top of image is dark.* 2.
Delay in the built-in clock 3. System error appears or operation of
switches is not accepted when capturing continuously. 4. The card
capacity decreases if the 1GB SD memory card is formatted. (No
problem with a card of 512MB or less.)
 
Force the flash and keep it down when you don't need it?

I don't think my flash causes overexposure indoors.

Full auto will never be as bright as you are.

F
That's very interesting. I get overexposed pictures with s Z2 (not
Z3!) especially with flash wonder why.

Do you mean, that you can get overexposed pics with "full auto"
too? What can you do, when you want pictures indoors with "enough"
light, so the flash sometimes starts and then not. With flash the
pics are overexposted, without underexposed, because the camera is
irritated by the light from the window.
 
I think the problem with colours and lighting is where, how, and when the calibrations take place. There is a custom white balance you can do, but we shoud be able to calibrate the sun, cloud, tungsten and flourescent, and flash settings. Yes there would still be the factory defaults, but where each of us lives is probably immensely different from the "factory. Maybe even adjust the automatic focus as well.

Perhaps I'm just fantasizing.
I read about the problems with the Z3 and elder firmware. Did the
new firmware solve all the problems?
 
I also have these problems too. My z3 most of the times overexpose !!! Outdoors, on a sunny day and indoors. Of course you can go MANUAL but if you are in harry then you have problems.
 
I also have these problems too. My z3 most of the times overexpose
!!! Outdoors, on a sunny day and indoors. Of course you can go
MANUAL but if you are in harry then you have problems.
That is what the P-mode is for!

And leave Harry alone! He is not into that sort of stuff.
Photographing him while being in him would be problematic...
...perhaps let your sister can take the shots of you two??

Set P-mode, iso 50, spot metering and single focus.

Then tap the left button twice and your cam will underexpose
0.7 exposure values at all times.

It depends on what you aim for if it will overexpose or not... but the display will tell you what the image will look like and if you will overexpose or see clouds...

Fredrik
I also have these problems too. My z3 most of the times overexpose
!!! Outdoors, on a sunny day and indoors. Of course you can go
MANUAL but if you are in harry then you have problems.
 
Set P-mode, iso 50, spot metering and single focus.
I had a Z3 only for a about 40 fast shots and the autofocus didn't work fine from time to time, although I couldn't recognize why. The objact was more than 5-10m away and structured.The pictures where made in auto-mode.

What do you mean with single focus?

At the moment I think to forget a Z2 or Z3, since I read in the usenet that a lot of KM-cameras have problems with the autofocus, including the A2. Maybe because the AF is too fast. When they make 3 identical pictures maybe one is sharp. That's not what I am looking for.
 
What do you mean with single focus?
In the menu it is the alternative to continious focus.

I find single focus to be more exact and it is also power saving.

I used to have to take three shots with my G600 in order to know I got one without motion blur etc...

Now I just snap once... and that is enough.

F
 

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