a special technique i learned

Also there ARE some moments I DO NOT pan.
Then the IS will be an advantage, right?

And sometimes I DO pan, so switching the IS off is a better idea.

I'm getting it!!!
My problem is ALMOST solved!!

ALMOST!

Takki

P.S. Charlie DID NOT use ANY tripods/monopods?
Or tonight I'll get a nightmare again...
Thanx for the samples!
I LIKE them!

REALLY!

ALSO I can see the difference of the 2 pics.

the 1st pic has a blurry background, great shot (IS is off)
the 2nd pic the object/car is MUCH sharper and the background is
LESS blurry because the IS was ON.

And you DID the panning technique for both pictures?

Am I right? Are my comments right?

My decision is almost done, almost...
(situation is NOW better THAN yesterday night, I couldn't sleep)

Takki
This is the first time I've posted a picture so bear with me.
Please also bear in mind that this is my first ever slr , I'm new
to motorsport photography and the lens I was using was a new one
which I was using for the first time :O)
 
Hey THATS CHALLENGING!!!!
WoW...

But IF i stand very very far of the track (using 300mm), THEN I
SHOULD use a very short shutter of 1/2000 or 1/4000.
And an ISO of 400?

BUT WHY did i get that COOL/beautifull shot with a poor old HP
photosmart 720 digi camera??????!!!!!!!
(its not a SLR, just a cheap digital one)

IF i can do that with a poor cam, then i should do it well with the
Rebel?!

?????????

Takki

P.S. I'm new with SLR's...........
Being in at 300mm youre going to have to be EXTREMELY steady when
you do it. It gets harder the farther in you are, so you might need
practice for awhile before you get it down. Id try to get the
FASTEST shutter speed you can no matter what, and then trying to
follow the car around the track, best of luck!
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

by lucky i mean your lucky the car was infocus, well not really lucky because the depth of field with the Hp is probably pretty large. The rebel can take a much better picture than this, this is what i'd do. If you want a nice speed look like you got with the hp(tires blurred, background streaked like it's moving fast) then you need to shoot in shutter priority or manual and set the shutter speed yourself, start at a slow speed like 1/300th and go up and down, i'd shoot in shutter priority and let the camera set the aperture, don't half press the shutter on the rebel, just pan with the car and push the shutter, the rebel focuses plenty fast enough to lock on the car while your panning, i wouldn't shoot at iso400 uless the light is bad and don't let anyone tell you that you need AI servo or sports mode to shoot shots like that, you should be able to pan with an object that size and lock focus without needing AI servo. I've never shot race cars, shot a few cars going down the road with this method and it works great. You want a slower shutter speed to keep the motion effect in the background and the tires, otherwise a 1/2000th of a second shutter speed will freeze everything and it will look like the car is sitting still.
 
No tripod.
No IS.
Centre focus point only, AI servo.

Shoot in Tv mode and start with shutter speed 1/300 and ISO 400.

Do NOT shoot with a very fast shutter. It makes the car look parked on the circuit.

Pick up the car as it comes round the circuit, half press the button to focus, keep the car in the focus point. As it passes directly in front of you gently press the button all the way. Keep following the car after the button is pressed, just like a tennis or golf follow-through.

You are making it too complicated for yourself. Just follow these simple steps. I have been shooting race cars for many, many years and we all had to start somewhere.



Shot at 1/125, ISO400, F16 with the lens that Charlie is using.

--
Kenny

If you really want to know what I shoot with - look under my profile.
 
How do i overcome the AI Servo?
using manual focus (setting on the lens)?
OR using the M-mode?
BUT most people advised me to use Tv (shutter prior.) mode.

I'm getting afraid of the AI Servo.
SO DO NOT half press the shutter? right?
just full press in one-movement?

Takki

PS I think after all these help of you guyz, the action shots I'll take will succeed BECAUSE of you guyz!

go ON!
Hey THATS CHALLENGING!!!!
WoW...

But IF i stand very very far of the track (using 300mm), THEN I
SHOULD use a very short shutter of 1/2000 or 1/4000.
And an ISO of 400?

BUT WHY did i get that COOL/beautifull shot with a poor old HP
photosmart 720 digi camera??????!!!!!!!
(its not a SLR, just a cheap digital one)

IF i can do that with a poor cam, then i should do it well with the
Rebel?!

?????????

Takki

P.S. I'm new with SLR's...........
Being in at 300mm youre going to have to be EXTREMELY steady when
you do it. It gets harder the farther in you are, so you might need
practice for awhile before you get it down. Id try to get the
FASTEST shutter speed you can no matter what, and then trying to
follow the car around the track, best of luck!
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

by lucky i mean your lucky the car was infocus, well not really
lucky because the depth of field with the Hp is probably pretty
large. The rebel can take a much better picture than this, this is
what i'd do. If you want a nice speed look like you got with the
hp(tires blurred, background streaked like it's moving fast) then
you need to shoot in shutter priority or manual and set the shutter
speed yourself, start at a slow speed like 1/300th and go up and
down, i'd shoot in shutter priority and let the camera set the
aperture, don't half press the shutter on the rebel, just pan with
the car and push the shutter, the rebel focuses plenty fast enough
to lock on the car while your panning, i wouldn't shoot at iso400
uless the light is bad and don't let anyone tell you that you need
AI servo or sports mode to shoot shots like that, you should be
able to pan with an object that size and lock focus without needing
AI servo. I've never shot race cars, shot a few cars going down
the road with this method and it works great. You want a slower
shutter speed to keep the motion effect in the background and the
tires, otherwise a 1/2000th of a second shutter speed will freeze
everything and it will look like the car is sitting still.
 
You used the EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 IS USM zoomlens for that shot?
IS-function on or off?

BUT why is someone says to me I NEED a wide aperture of F 2.8 ?????
You used F16 for that shot!

Takki

PS I wanna take shots like yours and Charlie's.
GREAT SHOT MAN!
No tripod.
No IS.
Centre focus point only, AI servo.

Shoot in Tv mode and start with shutter speed 1/300 and ISO 400.

Do NOT shoot with a very fast shutter. It makes the car look parked
on the circuit.

Pick up the car as it comes round the circuit, half press the
button to focus, keep the car in the focus point. As it passes
directly in front of you gently press the button all the way. Keep
following the car after the button is pressed, just like a tennis
or golf follow-through.

You are making it too complicated for yourself. Just follow these
simple steps. I have been shooting race cars for many, many years
and we all had to start somewhere.



Shot at 1/125, ISO400, F16 with the lens that Charlie is using.

--
Kenny

If you really want to know what I shoot with - look under my profile.
 
I'm getting afraid of the AI Servo.
SO DO NOT half press the shutter? right?
just full press in one-movement?

Takki

PS I think after all these help of you guyz, the action shots I'll
take will succeed BECAUSE of you guyz!

go ON!
Hey THATS CHALLENGING!!!!
WoW...

But IF i stand very very far of the track (using 300mm), THEN I
SHOULD use a very short shutter of 1/2000 or 1/4000.
And an ISO of 400?

BUT WHY did i get that COOL/beautifull shot with a poor old HP
photosmart 720 digi camera??????!!!!!!!
(its not a SLR, just a cheap digital one)

IF i can do that with a poor cam, then i should do it well with the
Rebel?!

?????????

Takki

P.S. I'm new with SLR's...........
Being in at 300mm youre going to have to be EXTREMELY steady when
you do it. It gets harder the farther in you are, so you might need
practice for awhile before you get it down. Id try to get the
FASTEST shutter speed you can no matter what, and then trying to
follow the car around the track, best of luck!
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

by lucky i mean your lucky the car was infocus, well not really
lucky because the depth of field with the Hp is probably pretty
large. The rebel can take a much better picture than this, this is
what i'd do. If you want a nice speed look like you got with the
hp(tires blurred, background streaked like it's moving fast) then
you need to shoot in shutter priority or manual and set the shutter
speed yourself, start at a slow speed like 1/300th and go up and
down, i'd shoot in shutter priority and let the camera set the
aperture, don't half press the shutter on the rebel, just pan with
the car and push the shutter, the rebel focuses plenty fast enough
to lock on the car while your panning, i wouldn't shoot at iso400
uless the light is bad and don't let anyone tell you that you need
AI servo or sports mode to shoot shots like that, you should be
able to pan with an object that size and lock focus without needing
AI servo. I've never shot race cars, shot a few cars going down
the road with this method and it works great. You want a slower
shutter speed to keep the motion effect in the background and the
tires, otherwise a 1/2000th of a second shutter speed will freeze
everything and it will look like the car is sitting still.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

What i mean is you don't need to prefocus with the rebel like you would with your hp, just pan with the car and push the button in one motion. Don't worry about AI servo, it only kicks in if you half press and hold the shutter. You'll just need to play with the shutter speed to find the correct speed for the available light and to show motion you want a slow shutter than you normally would. I just didn't want you to think you had to shoot in sports mode and be stuck at iso400 because you don't, i'd probably stick to iso100 if it's sunny and just adjust the shutter speed till i get the motion effect i want, but if you want to shot at iso400 and 1/2000th of a second you can, but don't expect the nice motion blur in the background you got in that shot. I don't think i would try to shoot at 1/139 with a 300mm lens, but you never know, it might work. If you want to shoot a car going 120mph coming straight at you then you might need to prefocus, i've tried shooting cars through the front windshield at 60mph and them coming at me at 60mph which equals 120mph in reality and they're always a little out of focus, might be because of the front windshield though. Wish i could go to a race.
 
You used the EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 IS USM zoomlens for that shot?
IS-function on or off?
IS was OFF. It is exactly the lens Charlie is using.
BUT why is someone says to me I NEED a wide aperture of F 2.8 ?????
You used F16 for that shot!
Forget about aperture, let it take care of itself. You need the DOF. Concentrate on getting the right shutter speed and keeping the car in focus.

Go and look on my website. The only time I use a wide aperture is to take pictures of the girls or drivers in the pit lane where a shallow DOF is useful.

--
Kenny

If you really want to know what I shoot with - look under my profile.
 
I MUST play with the settings...
learn/practise more!

And what about I stand not far of the track?
about 30 meters...

will the story change?
other settings/techniques?

Takki
I'm getting afraid of the AI Servo.
SO DO NOT half press the shutter? right?
just full press in one-movement?

Takki

PS I think after all these help of you guyz, the action shots I'll
take will succeed BECAUSE of you guyz!

go ON!
Hey THATS CHALLENGING!!!!
WoW...

But IF i stand very very far of the track (using 300mm), THEN I
SHOULD use a very short shutter of 1/2000 or 1/4000.
And an ISO of 400?

BUT WHY did i get that COOL/beautifull shot with a poor old HP
photosmart 720 digi camera??????!!!!!!!
(its not a SLR, just a cheap digital one)

IF i can do that with a poor cam, then i should do it well with the
Rebel?!

?????????

Takki

P.S. I'm new with SLR's...........
Being in at 300mm youre going to have to be EXTREMELY steady when
you do it. It gets harder the farther in you are, so you might need
practice for awhile before you get it down. Id try to get the
FASTEST shutter speed you can no matter what, and then trying to
follow the car around the track, best of luck!
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

by lucky i mean your lucky the car was infocus, well not really
lucky because the depth of field with the Hp is probably pretty
large. The rebel can take a much better picture than this, this is
what i'd do. If you want a nice speed look like you got with the
hp(tires blurred, background streaked like it's moving fast) then
you need to shoot in shutter priority or manual and set the shutter
speed yourself, start at a slow speed like 1/300th and go up and
down, i'd shoot in shutter priority and let the camera set the
aperture, don't half press the shutter on the rebel, just pan with
the car and push the shutter, the rebel focuses plenty fast enough
to lock on the car while your panning, i wouldn't shoot at iso400
uless the light is bad and don't let anyone tell you that you need
AI servo or sports mode to shoot shots like that, you should be
able to pan with an object that size and lock focus without needing
AI servo. I've never shot race cars, shot a few cars going down
the road with this method and it works great. You want a slower
shutter speed to keep the motion effect in the background and the
tires, otherwise a 1/2000th of a second shutter speed will freeze
everything and it will look like the car is sitting still.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

What i mean is you don't need to prefocus with the rebel like you
would with your hp, just pan with the car and push the button in
one motion. Don't worry about AI servo, it only kicks in if you
half press and hold the shutter. You'll just need to play with the
shutter speed to find the correct speed for the available light and
to show motion you want a slow shutter than you normally would. I
just didn't want you to think you had to shoot in sports mode and
be stuck at iso400 because you don't, i'd probably stick to iso100
if it's sunny and just adjust the shutter speed till i get the
motion effect i want, but if you want to shot at iso400 and
1/2000th of a second you can, but don't expect the nice motion blur
in the background you got in that shot. I don't think i would try
to shoot at 1/139 with a 300mm lens, but you never know, it might
work. If you want to shoot a car going 120mph coming straight at
you then you might need to prefocus, i've tried shooting cars
through the front windshield at 60mph and them coming at me at
60mph which equals 120mph in reality and they're always a little
out of focus, might be because of the front windshield though.
Wish i could go to a race.
 
so you ARE a racing driver?
WoW!

I'll take a look at your site!
for sure!

And about photography:

while I'm panning...should I press the shutter HALF?
the AI servo will work, right?

What about pressing the shutter 100% completely in one movement WHILE panning???

Takki
You used the EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 IS USM zoomlens for that shot?
IS-function on or off?
IS was OFF. It is exactly the lens Charlie is using.
BUT why is someone says to me I NEED a wide aperture of F 2.8 ?????
You used F16 for that shot!
Forget about aperture, let it take care of itself. You need the
DOF. Concentrate on getting the right shutter speed and keeping the
car in focus.

Go and look on my website. The only time I use a wide aperture is
to take pictures of the girls or drivers in the pit lane where a
shallow DOF is useful.

--
Kenny

If you really want to know what I shoot with - look under my profile.
 
you two were at the rally?

I saw that red Hyundai again.

you were standing next to Charlie?

LOL!

Takki
 
LOL!

I knew that!
I've just post a message with the question if he is your friend.

LOL!

There is one shop here that HAS the lens EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 IS USM for 679 EUROOS (equal like $).
But its a displaymodel/showroom-model. The last one...
:-(

Takki
P.S. Charlie DID NOT use ANY tripods/monopods?
Or tonight I'll get a nightmare again...
I was with Charlie and all his shots are hand-held.

--
Kenny

If you really want to know what I shoot with - look under my profile.
 
while I'm panning...should I press the shutter HALF?
the AI servo will work, right?
Only in Sport mode... so NO, do not press half because you are supposed to be in Tv - Shutter Mode.
What about pressing the shutter 100% completely in one movement
WHILE panning???
YES, do this.

Andrew

P.S. If it wasn't clear before, IS is good when standing still, no panning, IS becomes less import (it still works, just not as effective) as shutter speed increases/gets faster.
 
but if i see a pitbabe walking from distance, will the IS be an advantage?

Or if I see a race driver like Schumacher walking in the pits, is IS better then?

Takki

PS I'm asking these questions to KNOW my applications and to KNOW WHICH type of lens I should buy. (sometimes I pan and I hate tripods)
ALSO be aware I'm VERY NEW to SLR's.
I know when panning (fast moving cars): no IS needed
When I'm NOT panning: IS is an advantage/handy function.

You see...I'm knowing my applications...BEFORE I place my money to buy my favorite type of lens.
while I'm panning...should I press the shutter HALF?
the AI servo will work, right?
Only in Sport mode... so NO, do not press half because you are
supposed to be in Tv - Shutter Mode.
What about pressing the shutter 100% completely in one movement
WHILE panning???
YES, do this.

Andrew
P.S. If it wasn't clear before, IS is good when standing still, no
panning, IS becomes less import (it still works, just not as
effective) as shutter speed increases/gets faster.
 
And what about I stand not far of the track?
about 30 meters...

will the story change?
other settings/techniques?

Takki
I'm getting afraid of the AI Servo.
SO DO NOT half press the shutter? right?
just full press in one-movement?

Takki

PS I think after all these help of you guyz, the action shots I'll
take will succeed BECAUSE of you guyz!

go ON!
Hey THATS CHALLENGING!!!!
WoW...

But IF i stand very very far of the track (using 300mm), THEN I
SHOULD use a very short shutter of 1/2000 or 1/4000.
And an ISO of 400?

BUT WHY did i get that COOL/beautifull shot with a poor old HP
photosmart 720 digi camera??????!!!!!!!
(its not a SLR, just a cheap digital one)

IF i can do that with a poor cam, then i should do it well with the
Rebel?!

?????????

Takki

P.S. I'm new with SLR's...........
Being in at 300mm youre going to have to be EXTREMELY steady when
you do it. It gets harder the farther in you are, so you might need
practice for awhile before you get it down. Id try to get the
FASTEST shutter speed you can no matter what, and then trying to
follow the car around the track, best of luck!
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

by lucky i mean your lucky the car was infocus, well not really
lucky because the depth of field with the Hp is probably pretty
large. The rebel can take a much better picture than this, this is
what i'd do. If you want a nice speed look like you got with the
hp(tires blurred, background streaked like it's moving fast) then
you need to shoot in shutter priority or manual and set the shutter
speed yourself, start at a slow speed like 1/300th and go up and
down, i'd shoot in shutter priority and let the camera set the
aperture, don't half press the shutter on the rebel, just pan with
the car and push the shutter, the rebel focuses plenty fast enough
to lock on the car while your panning, i wouldn't shoot at iso400
uless the light is bad and don't let anyone tell you that you need
AI servo or sports mode to shoot shots like that, you should be
able to pan with an object that size and lock focus without needing
AI servo. I've never shot race cars, shot a few cars going down
the road with this method and it works great. You want a slower
shutter speed to keep the motion effect in the background and the
tires, otherwise a 1/2000th of a second shutter speed will freeze
everything and it will look like the car is sitting still.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

What i mean is you don't need to prefocus with the rebel like you
would with your hp, just pan with the car and push the button in
one motion. Don't worry about AI servo, it only kicks in if you
half press and hold the shutter. You'll just need to play with the
shutter speed to find the correct speed for the available light and
to show motion you want a slow shutter than you normally would. I
just didn't want you to think you had to shoot in sports mode and
be stuck at iso400 because you don't, i'd probably stick to iso100
if it's sunny and just adjust the shutter speed till i get the
motion effect i want, but if you want to shot at iso400 and
1/2000th of a second you can, but don't expect the nice motion blur
in the background you got in that shot. I don't think i would try
to shoot at 1/139 with a 300mm lens, but you never know, it might
work. If you want to shoot a car going 120mph coming straight at
you then you might need to prefocus, i've tried shooting cars
through the front windshield at 60mph and them coming at me at
60mph which equals 120mph in reality and they're always a little
out of focus, might be because of the front windshield though.
Wish i could go to a race.
--
http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root

If your not far off the track then you probably won't need 300mm so you can use slower shutter speeds for more motions blur in the background without getting a blurry car caused by camera shake, try useing the 2x focal length rule if you can shoot at say 150mm or there abouts, so try a shutter speed of 1/300th of a second, that should rule out camera shake caused by panning, i love the way race cars look when you pan with them, noone wants to see a car that's moving 180mph look like it's standing still.

Your right, practice makes perfect, if you have a busy road near you then practice with the passenger cars, but i would definately use shutter priority.
 
hey, what about panning people?
or lets say my dog, that is running in all posible directions... at once :)))
 
IS will help, yes,

Example like you said, if you see something like a pit babe or nice car, you will pick up the camera, set it to auto, point and shoot to capture the moment... IS will help get a sharp picture.

http://www.usa.canon.com/eflenses/technology/imagestabilizer.html

IS has a lense that is attached to GYROs, when gyros spin which is what they do, they do not like to move... they try to stay frozen in space... so when you hold the camera and you shake, cuz thats what people do, the IS keeps the picture still for us which helps when the shutter speed is slower... so anytime you are pointing & shooting IS will help.

Andrew
but if i see a pitbabe walking from distance, will the IS be an
advantage?
Or if I see a race driver like Schumacher walking in the pits, is
IS better then?

Takki
 
whats that?

2x focal length rule?

300 / 2 = 150mm ?

what are you saying?

You must KNOW I'm new to SLR's.

Takki
If your not far off the track then you probably won't need 300mm so
you can use slower shutter speeds for more motions blur in the
background without getting a blurry car caused by camera shake, try
useing the 2x focal length rule if you can shoot at say 150mm or
there abouts, so try a shutter speed of 1/300th of a second, that
should rule out camera shake caused by panning, i love the way race
cars look when you pan with them, noone wants to see a car that's
moving 180mph look like it's standing still.

Your right, practice makes perfect, if you have a busy road near
you then practice with the passenger cars, but i would definately
use shutter priority.
 
Thats a GREAT + point!!!
(great feature)

good opportunity to use IS!

BUT IS will NOT work if i hold the camera steady/still and the pitbabe is moving her hand into her blond hair????

(but the shot will get blurry because of her movement OR....maybe it won't get blurry because of a fast/normal shutter during daylight)

please give a comment about this guyz!

Takki
Example like you said, if you see something like a pit babe or nice
car, you will pick up the camera, set it to auto, point and shoot
to capture the moment... IS will help get a sharp picture.

http://www.usa.canon.com/eflenses/technology/imagestabilizer.html

IS has a lense that is attached to GYROs, when gyros spin which is
what they do, they do not like to move... they try to stay frozen
in space... so when you hold the camera and you shake, cuz thats
what people do, the IS keeps the picture still for us which helps
when the shutter speed is slower... so anytime you are pointing &
shooting IS will help.

Andrew
but if i see a pitbabe walking from distance, will the IS be an
advantage?
Or if I see a race driver like Schumacher walking in the pits, is
IS better then?

Takki
 
You got a good shot with the HP, but keep in mind that camera shake will become much more apparent with the longer lens -good luck!
look at this picture



that shot is made with the old HP photosmart 720 digi camera and
its made with a shutter of 1/139 aperture 4.5 and ISO 100.

I used a technique (learned it).
i was FOLLOWING the FAST moving car while pressing half the button.

(tracking technique) When the car was in the middle i pressed the
button for 100%.

I was NOT waiting there, i was FOLLOWING the car.
Maybe thats why the shutter was 1/139

No tripod used for that picture.
I was standing and moving/following the car.
Thats why the background is blurry.

My question is:

What IF i use my EOS 300D/Rebel and the EF 75-300mm II USM lens
together to shoot FAST moving race cars WHILE NOT using a
tripod?????
And zooming at 300mm??

Will i get beautifull pictures next Sunday (I'll be there)?
Please help me and give your ideas,

Please give me your comment,

Thanks!

Takki
 

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