15. Low value for money compared to most other cameras with similar build and image quality
Absolutely false.
False if you value specific features that the D300s offers and cameras such as the 50D or K-7 don't, but if you compare "build and image quality", the differences are not reflected by the huge price gap.
You're actually comparing the build quality of the D300 with the 50D?
It's worth it for the handling alone. Get a D90 if that's what you want.
The point in Pa/Ps (Minolta term) or HyperProgram (Pentax term[..] You just flick the rear or the front dial and your immediately in A or S. It's much nicer than Program shift and quicker than the regular ways exposure modes are switched.
No, I don't see what you want. Either you want auto A, auto S, auto both, or auto neither. Sounds like you want auto neither.
19. No manual shift (AEL in M mode doesn't lock resulting EV)
You're wrong. What do you think this is, a stupid Canon?
You mean that if you hold the AEL in M mode and turn the dial the camera changes both shutter speed and aperture and maintains the same resulting exposure? If so, great. Feel free to mark it off the list
No, that's not what it does. It locks the exposure just as it says.
That means if you change shutter or aperture, then the ISO shifts
to compensate, of course. If you are in A when you lock and you then
change A, your S moves. If you are in S when you lock and you then
move S, your A moves. If you are in M and lock, and then move either
A or S, the ISO moves to match your held AE. This is perfectly sensible.
In M without AEL, a floating ISO will shift as the meter picks up changes.
Once you AEL the M, your ISO is also locked, but you can A or S twiddle it.
If you want to be able to flex-shift both A and S at the same time, you
can lock in P mode and then both A and S move together. You may
also move "the wrong one" to get EC going. So moving S in A or A in S.
And in P any EC may move both A and S. And M without AEL and
without floating ISO will be effectively EC; if you use EC, it rezeros
the meter.
This is the way the modes work. You have to understand what
your degrees of freedom are, what locking an exposure means.
Each of A,S,I can be given priority or locked, and the camera will
help you with all this depending on how much freedom you give
it .
You seem to want something that doesn't make sense within this
framework, and I'm not convinced what you do want has any virtue
over the way the system currently works.
20. No user memory presets to quickly override all camera settings
You don't like 4 settings banks and 4 shooting banks?
I stand corrected on this one. I'll be happy to explore how they differ from other implementations in a reply to the post you dedicated to the subject.
Takes a long time, and it does you know good for me to read to you.
Get the D300/D300s manual and read what goes into a setting bank
versus what goes into a custom settings bank. And because these aren't
cripple-locked to a mode dial (we don't have a PSAM dial), you have
4 shooting * 4 setting * 4 PSAM = 4**3 = 64 possibilities.
That's why we think having just 3 and sticking them where they
lock out modes, sucks.
No preset can fully correct incandescent light. What are you thinking? Do you correct it to 2700K? To 3200K? There is no correct answer.
The correct answer is to offer more than one incandescent preset
You are a little bit too quick to get all overrighteously correct.
Nikon does offers 169 different incandescent presents, and each
of the four settings bank can have a different one of those. I'm
sure you'll whine about 676 take 4, but I'm not interested in listening.
That's just incandescents. Not counting four manual
presets, Nikon has 13**3 + 31 or 2228 possible WB settings
you can use set up in different shooting banks however you'd like or
even put extra ones on a card for virtually infinite possibilities.
I cannot believe you cannot get what you want with what the system
gives you. It's not a credible position. Learn what it does and stop
your noisome nattering.
- Auto⁺ (≅3.5‐8kK)
- Incandescent⁺ (≅3kK)
- Sodium‐vapor⁺ (≅2.7kK)
- Warm‐white fluorescent⁺ (≅3kK)
- White fluorescent⁺ (≅3.7kK)
- Cool‐white fluorescent⁺ (≅4.2kK)
- Daylight white fluorescent⁺ (≅5kK)
- Daylight fluorescent⁺ (≅6.5kK)
- High temperature mercury‐vapor⁺ (≅7.2kK)
- Direct sunlight⁺ (≅5.2kK)
- Flash⁺ (≅5.4kK)
- Cloudy⁺ (≅6kK)
- Shade⁺ (≅8kK)
- Kelvin (2.5‐10kK)
- Manual Preset 1 from subject, light source, or existing photo
- Manual Preset 2 from subject, light source, or existing photo
- Manual Preset 3 from subject, light source, or existing photo
- Manual Preset 4 from subject, light source, or existing photo
- ⁺ means these each take both a 13‐step amber‐blue–axis fine‐tuning −6 ≤ AB ≤ +6 where each value is about 5 mired and also a 13‐step green‐magenta–axis fine‐tuning −6 ≤ GM ≤ +6 where each value corresponds to an approximate CC filter value
2 and 4 are not the same, nor really even much alike. Figure it out.
Here, read this short list that's left a lot of good stuff out:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1039&message=33688034
Download and
read from cover to cover the entire D300s or D300s manual .
Don't come back talking about those camera models until you do.
Folks aren't here to read you bedtime stories. That's your job.
Go do your own homework.
--tom
--
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