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Olympus OM-D EM-1 specifications

Body type
Body typeSLR-style mirrorless
Body materialMagnesium alloy
Max resolution4608 x 3456
Image ratio w:h1:1, 4:3, 3:2, 16:9
Effective pixels16 megapixels
Sensor photo detectors17 megapixels
Sensor sizeFour Thirds (17.3 x 13 mm)
Sensor typeCMOS
ProcessorTruePIC VII
Color spacesRGB, Adobe RGB
Color filter arrayPrimary color filter
ISO100-25600 in 1/3EV or 1EV increments
White balance presets7
Custom white balanceYes
Image stabilizationSensor-shift
Image stabilization notes'5-axis' IS
Uncompressed formatRAW
JPEG quality levelsSuper Fine, Fine, Normal, Basic
File format
  • JPEG (DCF/Exif)
  • Raw (ORF)
  • MPO
Image parameters
  • Sharpness, contrast, saturation
Optics & Focus
  • Contrast Detect (sensor)
  • Phase Detect
  • Multi-area
  • Center
  • Selective single-point
  • Tracking
  • Single
  • Continuous
  • Touch
  • Face Detection
  • Live View
Autofocus assist lampYes
Digital zoomYes (2X)
Manual focusYes (with focus peaking)
Number of focus points81
Lens mountMicro Four Thirds
Focal length multiplier2×
Screen / viewfinder
Articulated LCDTilting
Screen size3
Screen dots1,037,000
Touch screenYes
Live viewYes
Viewfinder typeElectronic
Viewfinder coverage100%
Viewfinder magnification1.48×
Viewfinder resolution2,360,000
Photography features
Minimum shutter speed60 sec
Maximum shutter speed1/8000 sec
Exposure modes
  • iAuto
  • Program AE
  • Aperture Priority
  • Shutter Priority
  • Manual
  • Bulb
  • Time
  • Scene Select
  • Art Filter
Scene modes
  • Portrait, e-Portrait, Landscape, Landscape + Portrait, Sport, Night, Night + Portrait, Children, High Key, Low Key, DIS mode, Macro, Nature Macro, Candle, Sunset, Documents, Panorama, Fireworks, Beach & Snow, Fisheye conversion lens, Wide conversion lens, Macro Conv., 3D
Built-in flashNo (compact external flash included)
External flashYes (hot-shoe, wireless)
Flash modesFlash Auto, Redeye, Fill-in, Flash Off, Red-eye Slow sync (1st curtain), Slow sync (1st curtain), Slow sync (2nd curtain), Manual
Flash X sync speed1/320 sec
Drive modes
  • Single, sequential H, sequential L, self-timer (2 or 12 secs, custom)
Continuous drive10.0 fps
Self-timerYes (2 or 12 secs, custom)
Metering modes
  • Multi
  • Center-weighted
  • Spot
Exposure compensation±5 (at 1/3 EV, 1/2 EV, 1 EV steps)
AE Bracketing±2 (2, 3, 5, 7 frames at 1/3 EV, 2/3 EV, 1 EV steps)
WB BracketingYes (3 frames in 2, 4, 6 steps selectable in each A-B/G-M axis)
Videography features
Resolutions1920 x 1080 (30 fps), 1280 x 720 (30 fps), 640 x 480 (30 fps)
FormatH.264, Motion JPEG
Storage typesSD/SDHC/SDXC
USB USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)
HDMIYes (micro HDMI)
Wireless notes802.11b/g/n with smartphone connectivity
Remote controlYes (optional RM-UC1 wired remote)
Environmentally sealedYes (Dust, splash, freeze resistent)
BatteryBattery Pack
Battery descriptionBLN-1 lithium-ion battery pack
Battery Life (CIPA)350
Weight (inc. batteries)497 g (1.10 lb / 17.53 oz)
Dimensions130 x 94 x 63 mm (5.13 x 3.68 x 2.48)
Other features
Orientation sensorYes
Timelapse recordingYes
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Total comments: 2087
linda r

I have owned this two years. I shoot raw and in a contrasty environment, I have been bracketing then doing HDR in Photoshop. I recently tried the "in camera HDR" and it did not turn out as well. And the camera only gave me a jpeg result. So I prefer post processing for HDR. Features that only work when using JPEG are not of interest to me because I want full color to work with.

I enjoy the light weight and carry it everywhere all day while traveling 5 or 6 months a year. However, I have compared image quality of my photos with photos of the same scenery by novices using iAuto mode with Canons and Nikons with larger sensors, and I see greater clarity and resolution in their photos. With sensors, size seems to matter.

I spent several days with tripod focussing with maximum telephoto on hummingbirds. Several times a day, the camera, just could not focus. Frustrated, I would turn the camera off, then turn it back on, to try to get it focussing again. Not sure what the problem is?


Yes Sensor size matters ;)
I own a D3 (my work-horse) and a OM-D E-M1 that I bought for travelling and outdoor-type sports stuff...
it's an excellent Camera (the E-M1) and I love the build quality, excellent viewfinder and the handling.
The IQ is however getting a tad "dated" especially if compared to modern FullFrame offerings like a D810, D750, 5DS, etc. It simply doesn't compete in that regard.
And it's a bit of a shame that this is not something that will "change" anytime soon for m43. Panasonic's GX8 with it's 20Mpx sensor doesn't do an better than the E-M1 imo.
I still think it stacks quite favourably against *most* APS-C offerings... whilst not AS good in the resolution / Detail department, it's close enough ti be a non-issue.

Myself I probably will not upgrade the D3 to a D5 (unless the D5 is D800 sized) but rather get a D810 or whatever. and a more compact lens like Sigma's 24-70 f/2.8 for travelling purposes.

But until then I happily keep using the E-M1


I do believe that with the newly announced firmware 4.0, there should be an updated review based on what is a new camera. Any thoughts?


That would be nice, but the new firmware (4.0) will not be available in quite a while. Somewhere in November they said. (they = Olympus)

Comment edited 27 seconds after posting

I do believe that if Olympus is selling FW 4.0 right now on their site, there would be a 4.0 version available to do a new review. This review is now bogus as this is in all practicality a completely different camera. There was a couple that did a review of FW 3.0 and that was a great view into the new operations of the camera. (, (, and (

Comment edited 5 minutes after posting
Petar Veliki

some serious updates are needed here since firmware upgrade.


E-M1 No Video?


Yes it has video !


Olympus OM-D M1 or Sony Alpha a6000. Trying to decide on which one. I have three Zuiko MF lenses, 50mm F/1.8; 35-70mm f/4; 85-250 f/5 I'd like to use.

I like taking shots of lightning and winter scenes, portraits, still life, landscape and macro.


The A6000 is about half price. something to consider. The crop factor on those old Zuikos is also less severe on the A6000 (your 50mm becomes a 75mm, for example). If you plan on shooting on daylight a lot and/or use manual focus a lot, you could maybe make due with the A6000.

The EM1 is more of a deluxe model. You get better ergonomics, better build, better viewfinder, better customisation, weather sealing (irrelevant if you're only using old non-weather-sealed lenses). One thing important to remember is that EM1, just like any Oly cameras from super cheap to expensive, stabilize all your lenses,


@bluevellet. TY for excellent comparison info to consider. After much deliberation decided to go Oly EM1. Will have 2x crop factor on my legacy glass but will still get good images out of them once I've figured out the ropes of using them. Added to the EM1 the battery holder and large eye cup, 12mm f/2.0, & 17mm f/1.8, for these focal lengths and manual focus control offered by these particular lenses - plus they look so good!

Will eventually add the Zuiko 12-40 f/2.8 pro and 60mm f/2.8 macro. Both are weather-sealed.


Recent firmware updates have users blown away with delight !

Tracking and frame rate improvements have turned it into a real all round sports and wildlife enthastics camera with all the other benefits of mft's !


These cons are somewhet nit picky in my opinion.
Interface and controls can be overwhelming initially
>That's Oly. People learn the system anyway.
In-camera Raw conversion interface is somewhat unintuitive.
>Isn't it whats done in PS that really counts?
Auto focus with Four Thirds lenses is slow in dim conditions with tricky subjects
>Yeah. So what? It really does not apply to a new user, who will be buying the new lenses.
Only one SD card slot
>With the size of cards now, is this really that big a deal?
Inconveniently-placed power switch
Oly must have thought it worthy enough to bring it to the new EM5 MkII.
Disappointing video quality
> The one thing in this list that will be important videographers.
Multi-screen live view interface looks very dated (e.g. can't combine electronic level and histogram)
>Oh well ..even Oly is not perfect.
Many still cannot accept Oly taking the lead all the time, and with a smaller sensor to boot.


Traded in my Sony a900 with the thought of buying a7, and ended up going with EM1. I am aware the a900 was an early "full frame" camera, but I have to say I prefer the images from the em1
Also the handling of this camera is amazing, just makes you want to take pictures.
Have the 12-40 and 40-150 pro lenses which are both pretty much tack sharp.
Being an amateur I can't really comment on the depth of field issue that some comment on but in the real world I just don't get it, at f2.8 both these lenses give what I am looking for, with some latitude for operator error in focussing.
Just ordered the 45mm 1.8 to round off the system for low light and extreme depth of field
And all this along with a flash can fit in a small messenger bag, what a bonus
Just blown away !


Were you able to try C-AF, continuous tracking AF for sports with the 40-150mm/f2.8 pro lens?

I still have the E-M5 mark I and that is a fine camera, but not so good... for tracking fast moving subjects.


Wow. Why did you have an A900 in the first place? It's not a cheap piece of kit. I remember being tempted by the A850 at one time.

I would disagree with you that the EM1 IQ beats the A900. Maybe the Olympus JPEGs are more punchy, accessible and such, but you should, in theory, extract more RAW IQ from the A900 than the EM1, even if the Sony camera is a bit old now.

I also think the transition to the A900 and the A7 would have been easier in terms of interface and menus. They have a lot in common.

But who am I to argue with you? If you find the EM1 a better fit then so be it. :)


bluevellett: In answer to your questions:
Had sony a700 and bought the a900 with 24-70 zeiss in a mad moment of camera lust whilst in Gibraltar
i shoot in raw and jpeg at the time, I did not say the IQ was better, that I just preferred it. the a900 was very good to ISO 800, at iso100 would stand against anything out there. The noise performance from the Olympus is to my eye better and when there is noise it seems more filmlike. (though noise from a newer sensor FF is better) Dynamic range of a900 and Olympus are also similar.
Another key decision was I found that a lot of my photography was when travelling and hiking and the olympus gave me a far lighter kit bag, even lighter than the a7 when lenses are taken into account

Comment edited 2 minutes after posting

WACONImages: the 40-150 is a superb lens, absolutely tack sharp even at f2.8, very fast to focus, nice contrast,
I don't do sport photography, but do photograph birds/wildlife and combined with 9fps shooting can track quite well and get some pretty good keepers. Not up there with a D4 but I would say as good as any sub £3k camera and lens combination

Robert Evagelista

As i start to get my lens lineup. This camera shows more capability than I ever thought it had.
the 45mm 1.8 is the best lens I ever had. It is always on the camera now...
even with the lens hood.. :)

1 upvote
Robert Garcia NYC

As of January 20, 2015, it camera is still amazing in feel and quality of images. I can't wait for second iteration of it.


The EM-1 looks gorgeous...but it's only slightly smaller than the FULL FRAME Sony A7...that's a pretty serious jump in sensor capability for almost no increase in physical size.

I suppose if low light and maximum subject isolation does not matter, the Olympus is the way to go, but if those things DO matter, go with the Sony.


UMMM have you cccchecked the body only pricing for the Oly $1300 [with rebate of $100] vs. $2500 for the Sony body.

That's a serious pricing differential for my photo budget.


Or go with the olympus for travel size and a regular nikon full frame for low light.

Ken Takes Photos

Along with a big price difference, I will state again since it seems we must say this every time someone compares the E-M1 to a Sony.

Look at the size of the lenses.

Robert Evagelista

Nothing beats FF IQ but for some people like me
Lens Size
Matters over the IQ.
I really tried those FF lenses. And It looks so conspicuous.
It will be harder for me to enjoy my hobby with those huge lenses.


If you compare two cameras based on one factor it simplifies things considerably. Exit the overly simplified argument with a trump card like "you can't beat the physics of a larger sensor" and Ta Da you have a clear winner! Everyone should get the Sony.

If maximum subject isolation and low light trump everything else, no one would buy full frame 35mm. It would only be large format or for the poor masses--medium format. And of course the A5s would outsell every other since it's the best in low light. No one cares about resolution or for that matter, lens selection, price, or system size.

So yeah, in a world where we can take out all factors that don't support our perspective and no one has a budget,... where is this world?

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting
1 upvote

Thats right when you compare the bodies only...

As soon you want something longer as 100mm the lenses for the A7 are HUGE.. Did you see the new lens announcements Sony did these last week(s). Great stuff, but so huge.

An A7 still is tempting, for myself too. Especially for reportage, wide angle and portraits.

But so far the best compromise for me is still m43. It is not perfect. Neither system is. I does however have the best mix in body, innovations and hq lenses.


Not huge like the new lenses announced for Pentax FF coming soon. Those lenses look like logs on a brick. (Not that I don't want to get some of that action). I just got an A7 though to add to micro4/3rds. Neither perfect, but very complimentary.

1 upvote

I am still happy with my E-620 the uk price of this camera seems rather high to say the least. Too high to make an upgrade as yet.

Richard Briscoe

I was surprised at the higher ISO image degradation compared to the E-M5. The difference between the two is noticeable beginning at ISO 3,200 in the test images. At ISO 12,800 all of the cameras images were equally bad.

Robert Evagelista

Updated blog using olympus OMD EM-1 with 45-150mm f4-f6.3

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
1 upvote

First use of my Olympus OM-D EM1 using 50 mm macro four thirds lens. Replacing Olympus E620 from which I have never had great results even at ISO100 producing pixilated backgrounds. The image clarity and depth of field is outstanding on the EM1.

Robert Evagelista

Another blog using OMD EM-1


There is something missing in the review about auto focus and shutter lag in the real life:


Good follow-up to add to this review of the E-M1 from several months ago. It's still an excellent mirrorless performer relative to newer cameras, like the GH4.

If I was still using a DSLR I'd never be in a position to afford a camera like the Nikon D4s, much less the better lenses you really need to add to the D4s to get the best possible performance out of it.


Yes, the GH4 ups the stakes with stunning AF (fast and stays fast in low light) and everything video.

But if still photography is your main priority, then the E-M1 is a better choice still. The better EVF, the IBIS and and better compativbility with 43 DSLR lenses make it more of an all-rounder for still photography.

1 upvote

So the "enthusiast videographer" would be perfectly OK with not being able to change any setting during (not even exposure compensation) during video recording? The AEL retention being available only when the camera was switched in movie mode beforehand is IMO a shortcoming due to bad software, almost a bug. I really don't see why this should not be available otherwise, and since it seems to be possible to affect exposure during video shooting, there seems to be no hardware limitation to having exposure compensation control while shooting video as well.

Robert Evagelista

a histogram comparison!

Robert Evagelista

After 5 months of use this are my best captures:


The grip is very sturdy but has a notch in the lower right corner that digs into the heel of my hand. My most serious gripe about this otherwise near-perfect camera.


is the EM1 HLD-7 vertical grip made of metal or plastic?

Comment edited 36 seconds after posting
Robert Evagelista

This Camera have rejuvenated my love for Photography.

JeanPierre Thibaudeau

I think theres a mistake on page 14 of the EM1 review, when comparing EM1 with EM5, right above the yellow pencils in the 3rd group of images: both columns indicates EM1 ISO 6400. Shouldn't the right column indicate EM5?
Thank you.


Can you adjust the focus point on the M1 while looking through the viewfinder?

Andy Westlake

Yes, this can be done simply by using the 4-way controller


Yes again, press FN1 and then use the front and rear dials for horizontal and vertical.

Augustus Urbex

Are there any updates on the hot pixel/extreme noise issue in long exposures on the E-M1 yet? I havent heard anything new in a long time. Has Olympus fixed the issue? Were only early EM-1s affected? I want to buy one, but with this issue, that is unlikely.

For those of you who don't know what I am talking about, it is well known that the E-M1 produces an ocean of hot pixels on long exposures of 30 seconds or more at base ISO, and the exposure time needed to make them visible drops by one stop for every stop you bump the ISO. Turning on dark frame subtraction almost eliminates the issue, but this makes star trails, fireworks, bracketed long exposures impossible. Examples can be seen here :

DPReview : PLEASE update your review to include information on this issue with sample images. This is a HUGE problem that big review sites need to address and let be known, or Olympus may never fix the issue.


Excellent link, thanks for posting. I too have been on the fence regarding the E-M1. I have rented it and loved it, loved the image quality, EVF, and handling, but this hot pixels issue affects more than just stargazers.

Frank C.

Great camera but sensor is too small to control dof or generate bokeh properly, I'll stick to my iPhone for everyday shooting and my D610 for the serious stuff


Cool. Have fun shooting with your iphone.


Unless you are a professional portrait shooter, or one of those amateurs who is hung-up on blurred backgrounds, dof is just one small ingredient in a good photo. Besides, there are other ways to get a shallow dof. If you like shooting posed portraits and have an addiction to shallow dof fine, but for shooting from the hip, spontaneous portraits or street shooting ... good luck sticking that bazooka full frame and giant lens in someones face. And if minimal depth of field is what you crave, dump the D610 soccer mom full frame camera and jump up to a medium frame Hasselblad. Meanwhile, if you look at the pro level photos on 500px, you will see that only a small percentage of them use a shallow dof to blur out the background. My point is .. shallow depth of field is not and should not be the single criterion for buying a camera.


Back as a teenager, I schooled my knowledge of photography from Aaron Sussman's book, written mostly in the 60's, wherein the statement is made to the effect of, 'Even the simplest camera is better than any photographer'. Still true after all the improvements. Still true with musical instruments, golf clubs, hunting rifles, etc. There is no best camera, just good and better. A better musician, golfer, shooter, or photographer will embarrass us with our own inadequate equipment. Consequently, we can use their better equipment to our same result.

Anyhoo, depth of field has more aspects than just format size. Camera to subject distance, subject to background distance, focal length are all examples of how to control depth of field. The physics of photography have not changed but apparently the knowledge of them has, sadly.

Interestingly, in the 60's, 35mm (same size as Full Frame today) was considered a amateur miniature format and one of it's advantages was it's deep depth of field.


Panasonic's 35-100mm f2.8 is sharp wide open and will give you great bokeh on the E-M1 as will the Olympus 75mm f 1.8.


Em-1 sensor sames as GH4 ? or inferior?


The Olympus OM-D EM-1 contains a Panasonic 34231 (MN34230 die markings) CMOS Image Sensor with on-chip phase detection pixel array

1 upvote

It explains why on-sensor PDAF doesn't work so well on Sony cameras (so far anyway).

Previously, it was assumed the technology was from Sony and Olympus made it magically work better on their camera.

Comment edited 2 minutes after posting

The in camera flash or flash add on has never been a viable solution. For that reason an external flash is recommended. Stronger flash and bounce flash are two good reasonsI am wondering if I will be able to use my Evolt 510 flash with this camera?


It has and always will be a viable solution, but not on every situation. Just like using a large flashgun is not always the best choice or a ringflash etc.

Like I use a lot the bundled flash because it fits to pocket and can be uses for portraits and macro very well by its nature.

People too often blame camera flash as terrible and advice it should never be used. But think about it. Olympus made a $1500 camera and then couldn't add a integrated flash because EVF so they bundled one small. Why? If it is so inferior, why to add? E-M1 is for professional use and why to add one when all pros has a flashgun? The fact is, do not tell what gear you can't use of you are a pro , because as creative photographer you are required to know all gear and what to use and when.
In so many situations you can't bounce flash or (red eyes). And you really don't need more than fill-flash so it doesn't need to be a huge. So often the required reason to use flashgun is because you just look pro.

1 upvote

You can get 2 batteries and a charger on Amazon for $22.00 for this camera making the battery issue mute.
I bought some for mine. So that gives you 1000 photos you can shoot.

1 upvote

It's "moot" okay?


2-3 years ago I was trying Oly's(many of them) in a camera show, with not so challenging lighting situation.All Olympus cameras did struggle to focus...Pentax too.I do not know did this did improved lately. I know 3 years are like 1000 years in technology terms, passed.

Canon/Nikon did not had issues in focusing...My impression from Olympus that they struggle in that(focusing) department.


Ancient history (but partly true)


Funny I am selling my E-M5 OMD for just this issue, I don't know why everybody says it has great autofocusing, its crap in low light, hunts all the time back and forth in video low light, and i am talking sitting around the dinner table at a restaurant with full overhead lighting it hunts! A compact camera can do better. The Nikon D300s I have never has this problem. Does anybody own an OMD E-M1 is it any good at focusing in low light? I am wanting one for underwater photography, was going to buy a housing for the E-M5 but gave up on that idea because of this low light issue with autofocus


EM-5 slow to focus in low light?
NOT my experience

I got ten times as many keepers these evenings as The CaN IkSon bricks and bazooka brigade got (and a MUCH greater variety of shooting angles..


and HERE:

Other galleries under
.. shot mostly with the OMD-EM5

The thing focussed instantly and accurately almost all the time.
Often, I could not even see the subjects without the EFV.

The 5-axis IS also helped drive the keeper rate' up.
Sounds like "the low light issue" is user error...

1 upvote

Party last night - took the OMD as instead of my SONY or Panny P&S cams ...

Nothing critical.
I set the TOUCH screen up to SHOOT when pressed, press on display at the subject's head, WHAM!
Even in quite dim light, it nailed focus instantly (like the EM-5 does)!

Much faster than fiddling with the focus point adjustment.
It trounced the CaNikon users there and they WERE surprised.

I must use this feature more ...
Low light AF issues are NOT present with this camera OR the OMD.

Of course like EVERY cam I've ever tried, if there's strong enough backlight to cause FLARE, or there simply isn't any detail, it will hunt. If that's an "issue", learn how to use a camera!

Comment edited 50 seconds after posting
jim stirling

The E-M5.E-M1 have excellent S-AF and as fast as any camera the weakness and it is a very real weakness comes when you need C-AF or tracking.Along with the poorer high ISO .I speak as a long term mFT user and I currently still have the E-M1 though it will probably be sold to make way for the GH4 as video is a major interest to me. The only way Nikon users were getting worse results { AF,DR,image quality, high ISO} was if they were using P&S. Despite all its wonders the E-M1 actually managed to have slightly worse high ISO than the E-P5 etc. The 5 axis IS or any for of IS , is only advantageous in low light if you are shooting static subjects as IS has zero value for moving subjects.

1 upvote

now the Fuji X-T1 is out. I feel that it will top EM-1 for IQ, and yet cheaper by $100. what do you all guy comment?


EM-1 usability looks superior - fewer needs for menus.
Depends if you ever need to shoot fast and not everyone does.

1 upvote
jim stirling

The X-T1 looks to be a super camera with clearly superior image quality to the E-M1 , pity the video sucks or I would ditch mFT completly.Though to be fair the E-M1 has pretty weak video compared to the Panasonics.

white shadow

For a mirrorless camera, Micro 4/3 still has a better selection of lenses and to me that is a deal breaker. The lenses are also smaller. The Fuji lenses are too big, almost equal in size to a DSLR.

Having tried the X-T1, I must say it is attractive in terms of looks but the EM1 is much more user friendly. It is also more responsive.

For image quality, the EM1 will give a crisper look with better colours. Good for landscape and general photography. The Fuji will give a better "green" if one prefer this bias. It has to do with the different sensor used.

Overall, I would prefer the EM1. Unfortunately, for the moment, the EM1 is more expensive but it has a true weather proof body with the 12-40mm f/2.8 lens. The Fuji is still trying to make its first weather proof camera.

Comment edited 6 minutes after posting


Question for EM-1 users: Has anyone tried using old C-Mount lenses? Also is there a list of 'lenses which work well' with the MFT mount cameras? I hear that some produce much better quality circles on the MFT sensor than others.

Note: I did try to search at the top of the page but it I didn't seem to bring up anything on the forums. Is there a dedicated forum search which I've missed?


Lossless compression - saves space.

Lossless means like a ZIP file or FLAC ..

ALL of the original data is recovered when opening the file and it therefore we have PRECISELY the original data with no loss at all. It has to work that way.

Kiril Karaatanasov

...and what battery life did you get? Is 350 frames ok for M1 since is not a high profile camera as another one which too does 350 frames on a battery charge, but is evidently higher class and so is judged differently?

1 upvote

ha ha Kiril youj crack me up.

DPR doesn't fall in love with your A7 and you lose it, flooding other comment sections and forums with your "findings."

DPR also didn't really report about the limited bracketing (common Sony oversight) in the A7, yet I don't see you reminding them of that.

Kiril Karaatanasov

What is limited in the A7 bracketing?

1 upvote

You should pay closer attention to the NEX forum, it's common complaint. Not sure if there's an app that fixes all of this (don't think so), but I know those are striking oversights with the camera without apps:

Inability to set bracketing and steps separately.

inability to set timer with bracketing (only possible with remote and even that comes with its own limitations)

Inability not to hold the shutter button with multiple bracketing steps

1 upvote

Batteries are compact, easily three in a pocket.

If you are bracketing it is easy to get 500+ shots on one charge. Presumably the VF to shutter ratio alters the effective consumption.
Aftermarket batteries on eBay are cheap and there are even ones called full "process" or something like that - it means the original charger can be used.

They are $9 and work perfectly.

In the dark that VF dusts glass finders!

My competition could not even SEE some of the things I shot. Without the EVF, in some cases, I could not see THE ACTION either ..

OMDs are brilliant in the dark.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 7 minutes after posting
jim stirling

EVFs are a major weakness in low light becoming both laggy and super noisy


Just double up on the frame rate. drains battery quicker, but helps eliminate EVF lagginess. Besides as far as seeing what the result will (mostly) look like, just chimp a few shots and then the camera for the best possible settings and use the EVF for overall composition and pay attention to that histogram. It tells a story that most don't seem to understand.


I recommend against using after-market batteries. I had one expand inside my E-M5. It did some damage and I had to send it away for repair.

The good news is that the repair service from Olympus was excellent. They turned around my camera inside of a week: sent it on Monday, had it back on Friday.

Kiril Karaatanasov

BTW where is the section on compressed RAW that Olypus are using and analysis of the effects of this compresison? or this is only for high profile cameras? and M1 is a.. ..not so high profile?


Lossless compression saves space and like a ZIP file or FLAC file ALL the original is recovered when opening the file.

Lossless compression WORKS that way.


1 upvote
Kiril Karaatanasov

DPR where is the "Camera hangs when multiple live view effects are turned on" Cons? Did you even try switching on the Art filters and peaking together?

ohh or you just love the camera and did not bother go that deep in the review process?


Hasn't happened to me - ever.

I just retried it, latest firmware now, but I did not see this before, either.


I find nothing on flash photography in here. It appears you can only use flash when using the EVF. Using live view mode darkens the results.


.Just upgrading from the E-M5 after purchasing a couple of the 4/3 lenses off eBay before this camera was released. Opens up a whole new world of great lenses.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 2 minutes after posting
Just Ed

There are a lot of small APS-C cameras out there. Even some compact lenses to go with them.

Personally, I would not buy into 4/3'rds at this point in time. jmo


Granted, APS-C cameras can be smallish since the sensors are in the same size range. 4/3 is not that much smaller as the conversion to FF is 1.85 vs 1.6 for Canon and 1.55 for Nikon. BUT, with 4/3 you don't have to deal with that old, non standard, oblong, 3/2 format. Oddly enough, in the day when film medium format was cutting edge, there was always the argument of the merits of 6x9 over 6x7 as though the oblong format would somehow make a so so picture an award winning photograph. Personally, I will never again use 3/2 format, I despise it that much. If 4/3 goes the way of the Studabaker, I will use medium format digital or just use film large and medium format. JMO


APS-C fails in the lens department. There's a lack of choice from every manufacturer. Kit lenses there are plenty, but nice primes and constant aperture zooms are lacking across all manufacturers. For Canon and Nikon you constantly have to resort to full frame glass, particularly at the wide end and you end up with strange focal lengths and larger than needed lenses. For NEX it's adapted lenses because of the lack of choice and now that Sony's gone full frame all those holes in the APS-C lens line are likely never to get filled. Fuji has nice lenses, but again not many. It's hard to see that APS-C has any future at all (except as the nichest of players), too big to be small, and not supported by a decent stable of lenses.

Nuno Armando

Not true with Pentax. Pentax has a very extensive APS-C lens portfolio


And mostly BAZOOKA lenses ...
I carry and EM-1, 8 lenses, FL50 flash, filters, plenty batteries, PL-200 QR, and a few other bits in a LowePro 180 Nova AW bag.

There is NO apsc or FMF (Full Marketing Frame) camera that you could even remotely do that with.
I sometimes don't know the situation so I take ALL the glass with me. Sometimes an EM-5 too.

Both OMDs leave my RB-67 in the DUST.
It had an actual picture area of 56 x 69.5mm, or about - about 4.5 times the 35mm format

Both OMDs leave it in the dust for quality. When there's time, I'll dig out some 4x5 inch negs - about 14.2 TIMES as big as FMF.
I would comfortably expect the OMDs comfortably beating 4x5 IQ. With Zuiko pro or prime lenses I'd expect better sharpness and less grain "noise" - except maybe for unprocessed night shots.

A few samples:

... t b c


3:2 was made popular by good hardware, NOT by having usable ideal proportions!
... it was rarely useful without cropping. You had to "learn the proportions" and try to shoot according to its non intuitive nature.

The proportions were NOT chosen to make good pictures!
They came about by adding 2 movie frames together, and also explains WHY the 6x9 format had VERY few users.

The VAST majority of roll film users (pretty well the only film where you had any choice in negative proportions) prefered 6x4.5 (4:3) and 6x7 (about 5:4, actually) or Hasselblad's SQUARE format (and its nice portable cameras) -NOT- the 3:2 of 6x9 format.

I saw the boxes leave the store.

FEW film formats had such weird elongation, all used a more ART-like aspect.

Pity it wasn't a much better 25x35mm format. (1.4:1)

I'm starting an informal 4:3 lens sample gallery.

I plan to do an EM-1 and EM-5 comparisons of near identical shots soon.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 1 minute after posting
1 upvote

Hello, I have an OMD EM5 and 75mm 1.8 lens. Most of my shots aure either out of focus or slow to focus small kids. Is this fast in OMD EM1? Is there a firmware or setting I should look at to make the focussing faster and accurate?

1 upvote
Mister H

If you're using the lens at wide aperture (such as f1.8) then it has a very narrow depth of field, so fast, relatively close to the camera children will always be a challenge. Tracking auto focus will help - it isn't brilliant on the E-M5 and is reported to be much better on the E-M1 due to its phase detection autofocus. I'm not guaranteeing it'll solve your problem though. If you post in the Micro Four-Thirds forums there are a lot of helpful people there who may be able to offer suggestions.

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a 75 is like a 150 on 35mmFF totally the wrong lens for children up close. A 45mm is a much better choice here as it is 90mm equiv. but imo a 25mm (equiv to the nifty fifty) is the best choice.
The DOF of the 75 is so narrow it's like 8 cm on a three meter distance a challenge for any camera, a 45 the DOF is 25 cm.
I guess you're a beginner that bought into an advanced system.
Learn to use it first before spending too much money on lenses that are not suitable for the job!


It's a great lens for kids. Make sure both Lens and camera are at latest firmware levels and narrow the focussing spots. Also yurm eye focus on.

Here .. shot with lowered sharpness/contrast, NO additional problem.

Try to have the child move across the frame, as few longish lenses can cope with a child at close chil running towards the camera.

Gives the parents a hard time too :P


I can't help but wonder if the MFT consortium (Panasonic, Olympus) will be offering a larger sensor at these prices! (aps or larger)

1 upvote

ie: put all that extra space and money to work!

1 upvote
Rocky ID Olympian

No they won't. Its at this price because of many other features. I also don't want any camera at this price that only has large sensors but without the features that E-M1 has.

1 upvote

By that 'reasoning', an F-150 is a "better car" than a BMW ... must be .. more materials.

Comment edited 35 seconds after posting
1 upvote

Andy, thank you for all your info and help. On the Olympus OM-D E-M1 can the camera generate immediately after shooting a playback of the image you just took without pressing any buttons (like Nikon)?

Thank you for your help!

Andy Westlake

Yes, it can. It's configured in the Setup Menu (spanner icon), 'Rev View' - you can select how long the just-shot image will display from 0.3sec to 30sec.

1 upvote
R Johns


Olympus in finally making some really excellent M4/3 cameras and glass. I'm almost in, but will wait to see if they will ever get around to adding a "Fully" articulating LCD on their cameras. It's almost as if they think having a limited articulating LCD is somehow a niche'. LOL...Weird...Hopefully, they'll get with the program.

I am really loving what I'm seeing, otherwise... :0)


I originally thought the tilt screen was a step backwards compared to the fully articulated screen of my E-620. However, on second thoughts, I feel the tilt screen makes more sense on a touch screen.since it provides a more stable platform when pressing buttons.


You know, the articulating LCD on the 620 was one of those "cool" features like the 'back lit buttons' that I thought would be really handy until day to day practice kinda proved differently. After moving the LCD around for a while first out of the box and saying "cool" a couple times, it rarely moves. I heavily rely on the veiwfinder, so typically, Im not going to-have time/feel like-moving it out and around. I know other's mileage may vary, but Im not sure that a non articulated LCD is a step back like an LCD that you cant see in daylight would be.

R Johns

I think it's great we are living in a time where all of the camera manufactures are stepping up and producing some really fine products to choose from. Especially when the weakest links are basically subjective ones.

When I use my cameras on a tripod, the fully articulating LCD really shines, for me. When I'm handholding a camera, I prefer to have the LCD closed, which is actually another good reason I prefer a fully articulating LCD.

Still, the newer Olympus cameras are impressive... :0)

Comment edited 37 seconds after posting

As far as street shooting is concerned, tilting screen is preferable: it is much quicker to deploy. As far as self-shooting, E-PL5 has tilting screen which flips ~180 degrees up. Of course E-PL5 doesn't have a built-in viewfinder hump.


The OMD-E-M! is a great camera except for one big problem. I want to shoot HD video with it and send the HDMI output to an external video recorder. like a Sound Devices Pix. This camera will not output a video signal through HDMI while shooting, only in playback mode. For me this is a serious flaw on an otherwise great camera.


Panasonic, I believe, introduced something called pinpoint auto focus with the GX1 or G5. Does the E-M1 have a similar auto focus setting? Is this what is refereed to as Single in the Specs? If either of these is true does it work the same way with Olympus as with Panasonic?


Has a nice weight/handling combo and feels comfy on my hands. Design reminds me of the Japanese Gundam... but I'm leaning towards the GX-7 at the moment.


I am struggling to choose from these two systems. May I know what is the factor you think GX 7 is over em-1 in your thoughts. Lol, just for my reference. Thx


The links to download the original videos haven't fixed yet. :/


This Oly, or its successor, will be in camera stable one day.

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