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Camera Menus

The X-T1 uses Fujifilm's relatively straightforward tabbed menu, which is separated into three logical sections: Shooting, Playback and Set-up. Related options are grouped together into their own 'Setting' sub-page (for example, 'Autofocus Setting'), which reduces the number of top-level items and makes the menus more logical overall.

Overall, once you've configured the X-T1 to your liking, there's little reason to visit the menus again. However there are a couple of items in here that you may want to note, such as Auto ISO setup and flash exposure compensation.

Shooting menu

The shooting menu plays host to the camera's photographic settings, arranged reasonably logically across 5 tabs. Many of the most-used of these options, such as image processing settings, are easily accessible via the Q menu.

Option Values / Actions Notes
Shooting Menu Tab 1
BKT/Adv. Setting  • Bkt Select
AE Bkt
Film Simulation BKT
Dynamic Range BKT
White Balance BKT
 • AE Bkt
+/- 1
+/- 2/3
+/- 1/3
 • ISO Bkt
+/- 1
+/- 2/3
+/- 1/3
 • Film Simulation BKT
Film 1
Provia / Standard
Velvia / Vivid
Astia / Soft
Pro Neg Hi
Pro Neg Std
Monochrome + Ye Filter
Monochrome + R Filter
Monochrome + G Filter
Film 2 (options as Film 1)
Film 3 (options as Film 1)
 • White Balance Bkt
+/- 1
+/- 2
+/- 3
 • Adv Filter Select
Toy Camera
Pop Color
Dynamic Tone
Soft Focus
Partial Color (Red)
Partial Color (Orange)
Partial Color (Yellow)
Partial Color (Green)
Partial Color (Blue)
Partial Color (Purple)

 - RAW file recording is turned off when drive mode is set to BKT, and bracketing mode set to anything other than AE
Autofocus Setting  • Focus area
 • Macro
 • Release / Focus Priority
AF-S Priority Selection
AF-S Priority Selection
 • Instant AF Setting
 • AF Mode
 • Face Detection
 • Pre-AF
 • AF Illuminator
 - enters Focus Area selection screen
 - enables close-up shooting

 - defines whether the camera must confirm focus before the shutter can be released

 - Sets AF mode when using AF-L button
ISO Auto Setting  • Default Sensitivity
ISO 200 - 6400, 1/3 EV steps
 • Max Sensitivity
ISO 400 - 6400, 1 EV steps
 • Min Shutter Speed
1/4 sec - 1/500 sec
Image size  • L 3:2
 • L 16:9
 • L 1:1
 • M 3:2
 • M 16:9
 • M 1:1
 • S 3:2
 • S 16:9
 • 3 1:1
 - 4896 x 3264 (16M)
 - 4896 x 2760 (14M)
 - 3264 x 3264 (11M)
 - 3456 x 2304 (8M)
 - 3456 x 1944 (7M)
 - 2304 x 2304 (5M)
 - 2496 x 1664 (4M)
 - 2496 x 1408 (4M)
 - 1664 x 1664 (4M)
Image Quality  • Fine
 • Normal
 • Fine + RAW
 • Normal + RAW
 • RAW
ISO bracketing, film simulation bracketing and DR bracketing modes can override this setting and prevent the camera from recording RAW files.
RAW is always 3:2 aspect ratio.
Dynamic Range  • Auto
 • DR100 100%
 • DR200 200%
 • DR400 400%
DR200 provides one stop additional highlight range with a minimum ISO of 400; DR400 provides two stops additional highlight range with a minimum ISO of 800
Film Simulation  • Provia / Standard
 • Velvia / Vivid
 • Astia / Soft
 • Pro Neg Hi
 • Pro Neg Std
 • Monochrome
 • Monochrome + Yellow filter
 • Monochrome + Red filter
 • Monochrome + Green filter
 • Sepia
Mimics the looks of various Fuji slide and print films, or black and white film shot using monochromatic filters
Shooting Menu Tab 2
Self Timer  • 2 sec
 • 10 sec
 • Off
Sets the self-timer with a 2 sec or 10 sec delay
Interval Timer Shooting  • Interval
1 sec - 24 hrs, 1 sec steps
 • Number of times
1 -999
 • Start waiting time
1 min - 24 hrs, 1 min steps
Shooting starts immediately when settings are confirmed
White Balance  • Auto
 • Custom
 • Kelvin
 • Fine
 • Shade
 • Fluorescent Light-1
 • Fluorescent Light-2
 • Fluorescent Light-3
 • Incandescent
 • Underwater
Each setting can be individually adjusted +/- 9 steps red/cyan and blue/yellow
- 10000 - 2500K
Color  • (+2) High
 • (+1) Medium High
 • (0) Mid
 • (-1) Medium Low
 • (-2) Low
Adjusts color saturation
Sharpness  • (+2) Hard
 • (+1) Medium Hard
 • (0) Standard
 • (-1) Medium Soft
 • (-2) Soft
Adjusts JPEG sharpening level
Highlight tone  • (+2) Hard
 • (+1) Medium Hard
 • (0) Standard
 • (-1) Medium Soft
 • (-2) Soft
Controls the contrast specifically in the highlight region (above middle grey)
Shadow tone  • (+2) Hard
 • (+1) Medium Hard
 • (0) Standard
 • (-1) Medium Soft
 • (-2) Soft
Controls the contrast specifically in the shadow region (below middle grey)
Shooting Menu Tab 3
Noise reduction  • (+2) High
 • (+1) Medium High
 • (0) Standard
 • (-1) Medium Low
 • (-2) Low
Adjusts noise reduction, has most effect when using high ISOs
Long exposure NR  • On
 • Off
Reduces noise with long exposures (T and B settings)
Lens modulation Optimizer  • On
 • Off
Adjusts sharpening and image processing dependent upon the lens and aperture used
Select Custom Setting  • Custom 1
 • Custom 2
 • Custom 3
 • Custom 4
 • Custom 5
 • Custom 6
 • Custom 7
Recall saved custom settings (see below)
Edit/Save Custom Setting

 • Custom 1
Save current settings
Dynamic Range
Film Simulation
White balance
Highlight tone
Shadow tone
Noise reduction
 • Custom 2
 • Custom 3
 • Custom 4
 • Custom 5
 • Custom 6
 • Custom 7

Saves custom parameter sets for future recall. The same range of options is available for all 7 custom sets.

You can save current image processing settings into a Custom set, and modify each parameter from within this menu at any time. No other parameters are saved (e.g. button customization or file size/format).

Custom sets 2 - 7 offer the same options as Custom 1.
Mount adaptor Setting  • Lens 1 (21mm)
Distortion correction*
Color shading correction*
Peripheral illumination corr.*
 • Lens 2 (24mm)
Distortion correction*
Color shading correction*
Peripheral illumination corr.*
 • Lens 3 (28mm)
Distortion correction*
Color shading correction*
Peripheral illumination corr.*
 • Lens 4 (35mm)
Distortion correction*
Color shading correction*
Peripheral illumination corr.*
 • Lens 5
Focal length setting
0 - 999mm (50mm default)
Distortion correction*
Color shading correction*
Peripheral illumination corr.*
 • Lens 6
Focal length setting
0 - 999mm (75mm default)
Distortion correction*
Color shading correction*
Peripheral illumination corr.*
Allows selection of focal length for non-native lenses. Lenses 1-4 have fixed values, lenses 5 and 6 can be freely customized.

* The various lens correction options (for distortion, color shading and vignetting) are only available when using Fujifilm's own adapter for Leica M mount lenses.
Shoot without lens  • On
 • Off
Set to 'On' to allow use of non-native lenses via adapters
Shooting Menu Tab 4
MF Assist
 • Standard
 • Digital Split Image
 • Focus Peak Highlight
White (Low)
White (High)
Red (Low)
Red (High)
Blue (Low)
Blue (High)
 - Standard = magnified view
AE/AF-Lock Mode  • AE and AF on when pressing
 • AE and AF on/off switch
AF-L button will activate autofocus in manual focus mode
AF-Lock Mode  • AF Lock only
 • AE / AF Lock
AF-Lock button can be set to lock both focus and exposure.
Flash Mode  • Forced
 • Slow Synchro
 • 2nd curtain sync
 • Commander
 • Suppressed
Sets mode for external flash.

Red-eye reduction is available in all flash-on modes via the 'Red Eye Removal' menu option (below).
Flash compensation  • +2
 • +1 2/3
 • +1 1/3
 • +1
 • +2/3
 • +1/3
 • +/- 0
 • -1/3
 • -2/3
 • -1
 • -1 1/3
 • -1 2/3
 • -2
Adjusts the output of external flash unit
Red Eye Removal  • On
 • Off
Enables pre-flash for red-eye reduction
Movie Set-up  • Movie mode
1920 x 1080, 60fps
1920 x 1080, 30 fps
1280 x 720, 60 fps
1280 x 720, 30 fps
 • Mic level adjustment
 • Mic / Remote Release
 - sets resolution and framerate

 - Sound recording can't be disabled

 - Sets function of 2.5mm connector
Shooting Menu Tab 5
IS Mode setting  • Mode 1 - Continuous
 • Mode 2 - Shooting only
Wireless Communication    - Turns on built-in Wi-Fi
Aperture Setting  • Auto + Manual
 • Auto
 • Manual
Defines whether aperture is set from by camera or using electronic dial

Set-up menu

The Set-up menu is generally where you'll find the X-T1's 'set-and-forget' preferences. A number of the most-useful settings can be accessed from the external controls (such as EVF/LCD brightness), meaning you won't need to delve in very often except to format your SD card or initiate sensor cleaning.

Option Values / Actions Notes
Set-up Menu Tab 1
Date/Time  • Set
 • Cancel
Set date / time and display format
Time Difference  • Home
 • Local
Sets time zone difference when away on a trip
Lang (Choose language) Choice of 36 languages
Reset  • OK
 • Cancel
Resets camera to default settings
Silent Mode  • On
 • Off
Turns on and off the flash, all operational sounds, and the AF illuminator
Sound Set-up  • Operation Vol
Level 3
Level 2
Level 1
 • Playback Vol
0 - 10
Volume control for operational sounds (AF confirm, self-timer and menu operation beeps)
Screen set-up  • Image Disp
1.5 sec
0.5 sec
 • EVF Autorotate displays
 • Preview exp. in manual mode
 • EVF/LCD Brightness
-5 - +5 (LCD)
-2 - +2 (EVF)
 • Framing Guideline
Grid 9
Grid 24
HD framing
 • Autorotate playback
 • Background Color
 • Focus check
 • Focus Display Units
 • Disp. Custom Setting
Framing Guideline
Electronic Level
AF distance indicator
MF distance indicator
Aperture / S-speed / ISO
Exp. Compensation
White balance
Film Simulation
Dynamic Range
Frames remaining
Image size / quality
Battery level
 - Sets the length of time for review image to be displayed after shooting

 - Sets whether EVF display rotates


 - displays 'rule of thirds' grid
 - displays '6 x 4' grid
 - displays guidelines for 16:9 shooting
Set-up Menu Tab 2
Function (Fn) Setting  • Fn1
BKT/Adv. Setting
Preview depth of field
ISO Auto Setting 
Image size
Image quality
Dynamic range
Film simulation
White Balance
AF mode
Focus Area
Select custom setting
Face Detection
Aperture Setting
Wireless Communication
 • Fn2
 • Fn3
 • Fn4
 • Fn5
 • Fn6
Select from these functions for quick access from the Fn buttons.

This sub-menu can be accessed by pressing and holding the DISP button for 1 second.

All 6 Fn buttons can be programmed freely from the same set of options, listed under Fn1.
Command Dial Setting  • S.S. front, F rear
 • F front, S.S. rear
Defines which dial controls shutter speed (S.S) and aperture (F)
ISO Dial Setting  • H1
 • H2
Assigns sensitivity of H1 and H2 ISO dial positions
Focus ring  • Clockwise
 • Counterclockwise
Defines operational direction of focus-by-wire manual focus ring
Power Management  • Auto Power Off
5 min
2 min
 • High Performance
Sensor Cleaning  • OK
 • When switched on

 • When switched off
- Cleans sensor immediately
Save data set-up  • Frame No
 • Save Org Image
 • Edit File Name
Adobe RGB
Set-up Menu Tab 3
Color Space  • sRGB
 • Adobe RGB
Sets color space of JPEG files
Wireless settings  • General Settings
Reset Wireless settings

 • Image resize for smartphone (3M)
 • PC Auto Save Setting
Delete reg. destination PC
Details of previous connection
Personalise the camera name displayed over Wi-Fi
PC Auto Save Setting  • Simple Set-up
Connect by Pin Code (WPS)
 • Manual setup
Select from network list
Enter SSID
Geotagging Set-up  • Geotagging

 • Location Info
Format  • OK
 • Cancel
Formats SD card

Playback menu

The X-T1's playback menu contains an array of editing options. Most importantly in-camera RAW conversion is now top of the list, which makes up for the loss of the RAW button, with other useful playback functions (protection, multi-frame erase etc) available off the first page. Social media addicts shouldn't be disappointed though, as 'Mark for upload to' tags can still be set for Facebook, YouTube, and crucially

Option Values / Actions Notes
Playback Menu Tab 1
Wireless Communication    - Turns on built-in Wi-Fi
Raw conversion    - Enters raw conversion mode
Erase  • Back
 • Frame
 • Selected frames
 • All frames
'Selected frames' option allows easy deletion of multiple frames
Crop  • Select frame for cropping Crops images
Resize  • M
 • S
 • 640
Resizes image files in-camera for sharing
Protect  • Frame
 • Set all
 • Reset all
Protects images from accidental deletion
Image rotate  • Select image for rotation Manually rotate images
Playback Menu Tab 2
Red-eye removal  • Select frame for processing Processes images to remove 'red-eye' effects
Slide show  • Normal, face detect
 • Normal
 • Fade-in, face detect
 • Fade-in
 • Multiple
Allows playback of images as slideshow over HDMI, with various options
Photobook assist (Enters Photobook Assist sub-menu) Allows you to select images and build photobooks
Mark for upload to  • YouTube
 • Facebook
 • Reset all
In concert with supplied software, sets images for upload to social media sites
Image search

 • By date
select date
 • By face
all image
 • By favorites
5 stars
4 stars
3 stars
2 stars
1 star
No stars
 • By type of data
 • By upload mark

Allows you to view pictures by date taken, or search using other criteria (including the number of faces found in the image)
PC Auto Save   Upload pictures to a computer
Print order (DPOF)  • With date
 • Without date
 • Reset all
Marks images for printing
Playback Menu Tab 3
Disp aspect  • 3:2
 • 16:9
For displaying images with the camera connected to a TV
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I own it
I want it
I had it
Discuss in the forums


Total comments: 648

Dear DPR, please reshoot Fuji X-T1 Studio comparison samples with LMO set to On. All images are little blurry, not sharp. Either problem with focus, LMO, or lens.

1 upvote
Astronomy Dominie

One of my main reason for buying this camera was build quality (I love made in japan products in general) but unfortunately it's not as durable as to be intended , The rear dial is dead and top plate dials are not as steady as before in a short period of time( less than a year) . I have a lot of Sony gadgets since years ago but none of them faced a problem due to a quality issue .they are really durable.My 10 year old made in japan vaio laptop is working pretty good yet and all my sony cameras never have a problem yet . Fuji please don't ruin reputation of japanese product with your low quality (or quality control issues) products. if X-T1 was made in china I wouldn't have these expectation really.

1 upvote

This is an excellent review but with all due respect, it could use an update. The Firmware upgrade version 3.0 has made this an even more fantastic camera! IMHO.

The features and overview described here do not reflect the cameras current state and I think that the camera, and Fuji deserve a more accurate representation of their product as so many people come to DPreview for information prior to purchasing a camera.

As I see it, Fuji seems to be the only major manufacturer that offers such fundamental changes to their cameras and lenses trough Firmware updates and that should be noted and applauded.


I bought Fujiflim X-T1 on 24 Dec 2015, and I love this camera. but recently say in Feb 2015, I found that the rubber skin on the surface and on the camera lens zoom ring started to loosen up. The lens is 18-135mm the rubber sufface had shows sign of detachment so are the rubber sufface on the Camera.
Then come last month in early April 2015 the Camera Flash fail to fire. I had try to shoot in forced flash to test it but the Flash that came along with the X-T1 failed.

The last problem i found is the Shutter Speed Dail had also show its problem As i move to dail to adjust shutter speed. The metering dail also follow to move. The Shutter Speed dail seems to had also failed.

Can I have my X-T1 replaced? Just bought Dec 24th 2015 and now all these problems pop up.

Can Fujiflim make their flag ship camera tougher..? and easier to hold on too, ? Why must we bought extra handle for such so called well designed camera?

Thank you.


No XT2 replace for atleast 7 months that's brilliant ive got 7 months of future proofing. PS. Can you remember any Winning lottoery numbers...................


Recently I've got a fuji AX1 with the kit 16-50 and got two lenses.18-55 and 55-200 . Now I have a question.Do U recommend me to change my body ang go for XE2 or XT1 or not? Does it make a large different in IQ .?since I have that 2xf lenses? Or no? I am not a professional just a beginner

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 3 minutes after posting

I am really interested in buying this camera, but would it be the time because it is already a year old. Should I wait for newer model?


There will always be a new model - for X-T1 not this year any more (first X-Pro2 is coming probably end 2015).

But simply ask yourself:
- which feature of the new model are you missing at the X-T1, which prevents you from taking good pictures TODAY?

- how many good pictures don't you take the next months, since you don't have the camera TODAY?

If you can put a camera to good use today - then buy one you like today and don't wait for the things, that may come next year.
Just because there may be a newer model some day your existing camera does not suddenly stop taking great pictures - and if you really need one of the new features you can usually sell the exiting body for a good price.

By the way - besides the camara-body there are more important factors to take good pictures - most important the skills of the person taking them and having a camera at hand in the right moment at the right place. Then good lenses... the body is the least important part.

Comment edited 49 seconds after posting

I would not hesitate. I got mine soon after they were released and am very happy with it. It is a great shooting experience using this camera. Also the Fuji lens line up is great with great glass.

Also they have worked with Lightroom and resolved the early problems since LR 5.7.

Fujifilm has offered firmware 3.0 which was great and later this month firmware 4.0 will be released for free which will again add usable new features to this model.

I say go for it, as the person above said there will always be a new model coming out, and that won't stop this X-T1 from making great photographs.

Comment edited 30 seconds after posting

The Fuji jpeg colors are for me unmatched, not even by the NX1. With the X-T1 I've more options to travel light than that still more bulky NX1 ! Even if i want go more pro-ish I've the 56mm f1.2 or the pro-zooms or all the other lenses FUJI is famous for.

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting

How is the Fuji JPEG colors compared to A7II? I played with the X-T1 at the store and love the JPEG colors, however I haven't tried out the A7II.


Personally and in general I don't like SONY jpeg colors, but when you're shooting in RAW you can tweak a lot.

1 upvote

Since you own both cameras, how would you say their lenses and Image quality compare (especially dynamic range).


While video is secondary and probably sees little use, it's still unacceptable to see it falling so far behind every other camera out there.

I see that the video mode scored the lowest in this review. Needs a major step up for for X-T2


It's a "mutually exclusive" issue. If you want the great quality images from an X-Trans sensor, then you cannot have great video. It's that simple. Bummer.


What the reviewer says about ISO accuracy is fascinating and matches my experience with the X-T1 (assuming I understand the iso accuracy part of the review correctly!)

I have a Canon 6D and I kept being surprised when first shooting with the X-T1, because it seemed (in aperture priority mode) to be choosing a slower shutter speed for a given scene at a given ISO than I was used to.

I wondered if I was imagining it, so I set the two cameras up together and shot the same scenes and found that this was consistently the case. For a (fictitious) example, when shooting the same scene at ISO 1600 at f/5.6, the 6D would suggest 1/30th and the Fuji would suggest 1/15th.

It changes how I shoot because with the 6D, I know exactly the degree to which I can lean on the image stabilisation in low light. My instincts don't apply to the X-T1 in the same way and I find I need to be much more careful about keeping steady.

Most interesting and thorough review as always.

1 upvote

Still waiting for the X-T2 with IBIS to pair with the 16-55mm f/2.8 which has no OIS!


the 18-135 has OIS 5 axis shame they didn't use that in the 16-55. I can hand hold at 1/4 sec at 135mm and im not the most stable tripod being 59

1 upvote

Low light performance and weather-resistance of camera and lenses is a big plus.
Another good review that could mention the firmware update someone mentioned earlier.

1 upvote

Shutter speed of 32000 of a second and if you set it in the menu to es + ms. It automatically changes from mechanical shutter to electronical from 4000 onwards. So you can still use the flash upto 4000. Awesome free update.


Not sure you'll get flash sync at 1/4000 Second there mate. Good luck with that!


don't use flash pal. sync is 180 . I was just pointing out the version 3.00 upgrade don't get all techie. you cant please everyone can you. don't know what your iPhone sync is cant help you there.


That just actually didn't make any sense, but to answer your question:

No, You can't please everyone, especially when you post misinformed/wrong information.

Busted, much?


ever heard of highspeed sync?

Comment edited 7 seconds after posting
1 upvote

No. What's that? Tell me how high speed sync works? What flash are you using for that? What triggers? What are your settings for 'High Speed Sync' on an X-T1?

And how much of that flash are you actually losing?



Comment edited 50 seconds after posting

Where is the RAW dynamic range comparison, please?


The April 2014 review deserves considerable change following the Firmware v3.0 update. The X-T1 is now a very serious camera...and the joy is that I haven't had to buy a new camera !!!

Comment edited 23 seconds after posting
Mike FL

This T1 is "Weather Resistant" with no IBIS, but FUJI's WR OIS zoom lenses is no wider than 27mm.

By looking FUJI's lens road map, FUJI has No plan to release a OIS WA lens wider than 27mm.

So far, no good.


My guess would be that most of the dust that comes between the sensor and lens would originate from the lens. Why make a dust proof body without the lens? I'm with you Mike.

Mike FL

A typical/good "Weather Resistant" camera + Lenses can be used by all advised conditions such as dusty, rainy without ANY problem as seem from a video clip below:

Comment edited 4 times, last edit 2 minutes after posting
Paul JM

Mike why on earth would you want IS with an ultra wide lens? Makes no sense

Mike FL

Paul JM;

"Fujifilm XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS". It is UW with OIS, but not sealed.

BTW: U do not know camera and lenses too much as far as I can see.

Paul JM

Mike if you have a look at the offerings of Canon and Nikon in the UW lenses, virtually none have OIS. I love OIS, but in long lenses when hand holding in low light is a problem
Generally if you are shooting wide, if the shutter speed is getting so slow that you need OIS, you are better off using a tripod. At these shutter speeds, if shooting people you are going to get movement artefact, and if shooting architecture etc much better on a tripod. Have a look at the premium SLR wide lenses


I hope Fuji improving the Movie mode by Firmware update.

1 upvote

pity they didnt go with 24mpx apsc sensor, if thats posible,


Yes, they are sending the new sensor via the post office when u register on their website............


what? try making sense when you type, it makes your time more valuable to you and those who read your comments!
what the hells a post office got to do with me contemplating fuji bringing out an x camera with 24mpx apsc sensor, or is this a thinly veiled[failed] attempt at humour using sarcasm?


I was kidding jeeezzz.. some people think they can get a MP increase through a firmware

Rodolfo R

I just realized that the camera is designed only for ambient light. I tried to expose in manual mode with flash and the screen and viewfinder are black. In manual mode the screen/viewfinder shows the correct exposition for ambient light, but it does not work if I want to expose only the flash light. If someone know how to solve this issue please let me know. Don´t tell me please that this is it, and there´s no solution for that.

Comment edited 8 minutes after posting

Hmm, check to see if there is a viewfinder boost mode. My EM1 has the same problem, very irritating, but if I turn on viewfinder boost I can at least see what I am shooting when using strong flash, though I lose wysiwyg.


There is a menu setting for exactly what you are experiencing.



I have just taken possession of my new camera - very nice, but don't expect to use it with an iPhone if you value your sanity - the feedback I left in the app store: "You buy the lovely Fuji X-T1 and you want to connect to your iPhone or iPad. Your manual tells you that you need the Fujifilm Camera Remote. You install it and select your camera in wifi settings, as directed. There are four panels on your iPhone screen: Remote Control, Receive, Browse Camera, Geotagging (because the camera has no GPS, in this day and age…) It works about right once you manage to connect, but if you want to change from one panel to the next, you have to disconnect, then go back to your iPhone wifi settings, reconnect laboriously by going through settings in the camera ... Once you’ve done it a few times, you come to the conclusion that the app is worse than useless and you forget it to preserve your sanity..."
Has anybody had a better experience with this aspect?


I got the app as soon as I got the camera too. It does have some issues connecting some times, but the Geo Tagging feature is great IMHO. I can GEO tag when I choose to. I have also not had a problem connecting an ipad Air 2 in order to receive photos from the camera which is great to get a bigger view before I get home for RAW post.

Give the application a second chance.


I'm interested in this camera and would like to know two things from anyone with experience.

1. Would the pictures be in a resolution and quality high enough to make large prints, like 24"x36"?

2. Would the sensor and available fast lenses give very good results in low light without flash?

thank you

1 upvote

I have a house full of prints in the 24" x 36" variety with this camera. Resolution is exceptionally fine !

Low light performance with the XT-1 and it's fast primes is as good as any Nikon and Canon ................(formerly a Nikonian..)


The xt-1 is a great camera let down by a few nasty bits.Both the 'doors' on the camera are unbeleivably frail.X-pro1 ones seem like tanks in comparison. I love the flush buttons on the back as I've been prone to connecting with buttons on digi cameras over the years I don't want to.Like the x-pro and the x100 series the exposure correction dial has a mind of it's own and is never where I left it.Pictures are superb and in my opinion rival anything from anywhere else including some full frame cameras. Certainly better than either of my Nikon DSLR's.The x100s is my perfect street camera lacking little and with stunning results.The x-pro1 is my Leica M substitute used alongside the x100s with a 35mm lens and the optical finder it's just a pleasure to hold and use.The xt-1 is a week or two old and going to replacing one of the DSLR's (need one for action).Don't forget the picture is the 'thing' and the 'thing' that makes the picture is the one pressing the button not the bits in between!

Maklike Tier

Sorry silver fans, but it is available in grey.....


I've had the X-T1 for a couple of months now and just want to say kudos to Fuji. This is the first camera in decades that's inspired me to get out and take photos. I think it's the manual controls that I've been missing. I've been slowly lulled away to programmable buttons and touch screens, all the while not realizing I really missed the feel of my Olympus OM 35mm cameras of the 70's. Thanks to Fuji, it's great to be back.


I really wanted to love this camera. But, I opted for the OMD EM1 which I'm not disappointed with. It certainly has its own issues - too much crapware - but the images appear neutral and true and very detailed when enlarged.
I think I would have liked the Fuji colors more than Olympus and Fuji has a very good set of lenses. It's a great design and better built (more metal) than the EM1.
My reasons for not buying it:

- It needs a deeper handgrip
- The dials were a little too difficult for me to finger/thumb flick. Granted, they are much stronger than the EM1's plastic buttons but they were too stiff for me.
- The eyecup needs to be deeper. I wear glasses and am left-eyed. I couldn't get to the back buttons which, yes, are a bit spongy, but, usable.

I also looked at the XE2 which was easier to use because the viewfinder is on the left. But, still the dials were a bit too stiff for me to flick.

I hope Fuji reads this, makes some changes and I might become a buyer:)


the tightness may be the o-ring construction. Can't have it both ways.


wondering which to buy...fujifilm XT-1 or nikon 5300? can advise?


The XT-1 is a much higher spec camera than the 5300. The XT-1 has far more manual control, but that only matters if you intend to use manual control. The Nikon only has one control dial - this will limit you if you intend to learn to shoot with more manual settings. If however you intend to shoot on 'auto' settings, the XT-1 will be a total waste of money - Fuji make cheaper cameras that would suit you better.

The D5300 and XT-1 are not competitors, the XT-1 is much more similar in spec to the Nikon 7100. I suspect that if you have to ask this question, then you do not need an XT-1. Also note - Fuji lenses are much more expensive than most Nikon APSC lenses.

The Nikon is very big for an entry-enthusiast camera, there are many mirrorless cameras like the Sony a6000 with better/same performance, a similar price, and much smaller size.

It does not sound like you need an XT-1, unless you are extremely ambitious, in which case you would not be looking at a 5300.

Comment edited 5 minutes after posting

the 5300 has full manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, auto and full programme modes all easily accesible.
It has much faster, more reliable auto focus, an excellent 24mp sensor, Nikons full lens range and some superb 3rd party alternatives from Sigma, Tokina and Tamron for example.
In terms of actual pic quality, it will outperform the fuji if used with the best glass you can afford.
If I had £2000 (the cost of the Fuji and a fuji zoom lens or two)
I'd go for the 5300 with something like Nikon's 24-120, or Sigma's amazing 18-35 f1.8 instead. Indeed, the latter will save you near £700 and blow the fuji away image wise.
The fuji wins hands down imo on looks, build, image, weather sealing and easy to reach controls. A nicer ergonomic feel if you are a traditionalist.

1 upvote

I'm not at all convinced that the Nikon would have a faster more reliable autofocus. The saying 'DSLR's have better autofocus' does not apply when we are talking about an entry level DSLR and a semi-pro mirrorless.

The modes (aperture priority etc) you list on the D5300 are all easily available, but there is only one control dial, so shooting manual is borderline pointless. Great you can change aperture, but oh no not exposure now!

Why on earth would you recommend the Nikon 24-120 on a crop sensor body? You're talking about a £700 full-frame lens.

Define 'blow away' image wise? Fuji have fantastic lenses, and 16mp combined with their excellent auto-balance could well mean better images out of the body than the entry Nikon.

I owned a 5100, it was a great camera, but it gave me nothing a far smaller camera like the Sony a6000 wouldn't do better now. Entry DSLR's are a waste of space literally, you can get that sensor in a much smaller body for the same price with better autofocus.


For saved images, is the lens focal length, f/stop and shutter speed recorded?

Craig Atkinson

is there a way to show on screen / in VF, the 35mm equiv focal length that you're at when using a zoom lens? Sy you have it to your eye and quickly want 35mm, or 50mm equiv. You have to look at the lens barrel which seems clumsy.

Have I missed the feature somewhere?


Today I bought a black X-T1.
I foung it very loud when turned on. Is there a cooling fan in it? It is so loud when I record a video there is a constant not very quiet noise at the audio.
Has someone else this problem? I know from my SLR it makes no soung it is quiet. But what is that in the X-T1?


I would take that back aspap. XT-1 owner since launch and I have never noticed such a thing in my model.


Just received mine and discover the same "fan" strange noise yesterday. Does not seem to be linked with a focusing activity. Very annoying.
Also found screen and eye finder flickering in artificial light.
Seems a very nice camera but will return ASAP.


All the bells, dials and whistles on this one. I handled her once. Nice! But surprisingly heavy. The impression of weight (and a lasting impression of value.. what a make!) was increased by its relatively compact size.

Comment edited 20 seconds after posting

See a complete album shot with Fuji xt-1, 14mm f/2.8, 10-24, 56 f/1.2 and35mm f/1.4. I left my Nikon d700 and other full frame lenses behind.

1 upvote
Michael Berg

Nice shots. Can you say a bit about how they were processed? I think in some shots the skies are a bit overdone, they have a Kodak feel to them (deep blues, nearly completely white clouds) which is a bit distracting.


i agree. I have tried silky pix, iridient developer and capture one pro, they all do little bit better job than lightroom, but I have gone too much down the road with LR for last many years. Yes lightroom sucks with Xtrans files but to be honest, I feel same way for all other processors i mentioned. None of the above could show me significant improvement over LR 5.4. Yes, the skins tones look better on Capture one, the sharpness and no water color effect on photoninja or silkypix but then I have everything catalogued in LR and cannot afford these minute improvements over the convenience of my workflow. I agree, I have difficulty processing these pix, however since I shoot raw and keep all raw for all my keepers so I am hoping that one day there will be a good processor for Xtrans files.


Hi. Your reply interested me as I have been shooting with a d700, waiting for Fuji to bring out an X-pro 2 with a full sensor. I had the x-pro 1 and found it tedious. How do you pics compare to your d700, and have you tried to print out in large sizes?



I will be getting a book printed soon with BLURB (which I always use to print the photo books). D700 is a beast, the reasons you may want to get to mirorless world are (i) reduce the weight (ii) be discreet on the street, both these cannot be a achieved by any full frame body and lens. Probably a full frame from fuji will suffer same problems.

JR Johnson

Yes... some excellent images in that file I particularly loved the BW and the Street shots of individuals.


I didn't see any dial for A,S, or P priority mode. I'm sure that this can be control by the shutter and Aperture auto positions. Still, I think that there should have been some discussion on there use. Sop, how do you set Programmed Priority AE mode?

Richard Butler

If you set the shutter speed dial and the aperture rings to 'A' then the camera will set both, automatically (i.e. P mode).

1 upvote

From what I have read:

FULL AUTO = Set BOTH Dials to "A"
APERTURE PRIORITY = Manually Select Aperture as desired
Set Shutter Speed Dial to "Auto"
X-T1 will compute optimum Shutter
SHUTTER PRIORITY = Set Shutter Speed as desired
Set Aperture Dial to "Auto"
X-T1 will compute optimum Aperture

1 upvote

I tried focussing on a foreground subject ....half pressed it so I got the confirmation .... then I reframed it by positioning the subject to the side of the frame while still half pressing the button....then I took the shot and the original subject is totally sharp and in focus.

As far as I can tell the focus lock function works fine.

I would be amazed if fuji hadn't got this right and somehow missed it or purposely ignored it as a design flaw.....

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting

Probably this has been discussed already but I am looking at the static samples on page 17 and the image looks out of focus to me. I am looking at the paint brushes and sponges on the bottom right and they clearly are fuzzy vs other cameras. Is it a camera issue or what?

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
lovin denmark

I see it has manual focus modes. Does it have continuous full time manual focus as with some DSLR's? Thanks. Mark


(Part 1 of my post)

Am I the only one who is seeing a focus lock problem with the Fujifilm X series cameras in AF-S auto fucus mode (at least with the X-E2 and the X-T1)?

I am NOT talking about the issue of needing to put the AF Mode switch in the front of the camera to M for the AF-L button to be functional that everyone is aware of. Of course I was NOT using AF-C mode and complain about focus change like an idiot either.

I was in a Fujifilm showroom displaying most of their products somewhere in Asia yesterday. I spent about two and half hours trying out the X-T1 and the X-E2 and loved most features and ergonomics with the two cameras (image quality is a given that goes without saying). However, I realized a serious defect with both cameras. The focus lock actually DOES NOT lock focus very well, no matter which button you use to hold focus (shutter release on the top or AF-L on the back).

Focus just DRIFTS!


(Part 2)
No matter which lens I mated the cameras with (about four to five of them), after you think you’ve locked focus by the confirmation green light and the beep sound, you move your focus area away from the subject to re-frame for better composition like everybody normally would before taking a shot. The subject would be slightly out of focus (when it is not at the focus point at the time when the shutter release was pressed)!

After I found out about this issue and asked the Fujifilm rep, he actually QUIETLY confirmed my finding. We were very curious why no one brought this up in the their review. Now you understand why I withheld the exact location of this showroom earlier.

Did the reps and I do something wrong? Is there anybody else that has the same experience? If you do, how do you go about it?

I am on the verge of buying the X system as I like everything else so much. This focus problem is absolutely a deal breaker. Anybody in the know, please shed some light. Thank you.


OK...let's precisely analyze what you are saying to prevent misunderstandings: you have focused on a certain subject (a direct important issue is already: what method of focusing you use and how great is the chosen focus rectangle) and then you block the the focusing distance via half pressing the shutter button, correct? And next you go back to the initial subject, keeping the button half pressed and then your main subject should be out of focus? Or this happens after you discontinue the the focusing preset?


unless your focus point (after AF lock) is on the exact same focus plane as your pre-focus, this method of focusing will fail on all cameras. With flexible AF points I always drop an AF point on the subject I wanted and take a shot, "half-press then recompose" method does not work well on large aperture/large image sensors.

On a smartphone yes it will work.

paul simon king


My wife is about to buy one - this would be a deal breaker for her too


My apologies to all previous posters. I did not receive any notification of your reply so I couldn't respond sooner.

What I did was the most typical method of using AF-S mode, i.e. I aimed the camera at my subject, let's say using the center focus point on a face; half-pressed the shutter release to lock focus; recompose the shot (panning the camera away to position the face on one side of the frame while nobody was moving); and the focus on the face would drift. That was my original observation.

However, since no one else echoed having this issue with their Fujifilm X series cameras since my posts on different websites. I guess it was purely my paranoia. And for paul simon king, your best bet would be to try out the camera on your hands, or your wife's for that matter and decide if the camera is good enough for her.

paul simon king
Michael Berg

If the focus really did change, you should be able to notice that by the mechanical movements that would have to be involved. Did you notice anything like that? It really does sound weird.


What danielyrh said.

Remember, the focus plane is a _plane_, not a sphere centered around the camera. So if you reframe just by rotating the camera after focusing on something, the focus plane will rotate as well, and the target object will now be out of focus... In many cases the error will be too small to be noticeable (although it's always there), but if you're using an extremely shallow DOF on very close objects, this effect can indeed screw up your focus.

But this is the case with all cameras, it's not a bug with the X-T1. [I guess it would be possible to actively compensate for this effect, but it would require sophisticated tracking of your movements...]


silly question probably but why cant i compare the TX-1 to the OM E-M1? since they are going head to head in the same market...


DPR : error on page 15 of the review ? At the bottom of the page, on serveral places, when you're talking about "iso 100" mode, the graph shows iso 50. I think there is a mistake in either the graph or the text.

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting
Richard Butler

I'll look into that.


X-E1 delivers best images quality compared to X-E2 and X-T1 and has the widest DR. Hope Fuji will improve them (X-T1 and X-E2) in next firmware update.

1 upvote

It's the same damn processor. I own both the XE1 and the XT1. When side by side, using the same settings the images are identical.


The cover for SD slot indeed is fragile and is loosely fit to the body which begs the question as to whether the SD slot is exempt from X-T1's -10 C weather-seal spec.
But you know, once you hold this camera, it makes you feel like you've been using it for decades - I just can't wait to see the weather-sealed zooms that aren't announced yet and most probably it's a matter of time that this camera becomes my buddy.

Comment edited 10 minutes after posting

I received my X-T1 six days ago and installed the Sandisk ExtremePro 32Gb card and took the camera to the Air Show at Ocean City this weekend. The results for Saturday, using the 55 - 200 mm lens, including single shots, high-speed bursts and video were outstanding.

The problem came when I removed the memory card. When I did that the outer plastic cover of the memory card slot cover popped off. The inner metal slot cover now sticks out at a 90 degree angle from the side of the camera. There seems no way to reattach the plastic outer cover and I may have to cover the slot with black plastic tape to finish tomorrow's Air Show.

It's hard to believe that this fine camera, whose designers appear to have paid so much attention to detail, could have designed and assembled a part that gets such potentially heavy use as a memory card slot cover so cheaply that it would make the manufacturer of a Dollar General P&S camera blush. Color me disappointed.

1 upvote

I think the DSLR market is changing. and I think the miniaturization photo via iphone, not yet touched Canon and Nikon. I know that fuji challenge, but there are still doubts. good photo, less weight.
I'm in Brazil and unfortunately we can not experience this machine. I'm curious to use the work of parliamentary advice and see if I can replace the brick 1d MK IV.
Anyone know how to say the performance of the lenses Fujifilm XF 56mm F1.2 and 23mm F1.4 R?

Reality Check

Not sure 'not yet touched Canon and Nikon' is accurate, least not Canon.. have you seen the SL1?? Its pretty miniature, and unlike other manufacturers 'miniature' systems you get to use Canons full line of lenses.
Perhaps you meant that neither has seriously approached mirrorless...


Canon is out and dead in the water... look at there productline! Sony, Panasonic and Fuji rules this game. If Canon do not step up - they will be out of business within 3 years.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 2 minutes after posting

enerzo. most of your comments is ok (emotional) but to say Canon will be out business is a bit too much? Are you a financial analysis by profession? People have been saying this for years but everywhere I look, I see people carrying Canon cameras. go to an event and see what the professionals are carrying? I see Canikons and i can't see this landscape changing. Go to the Professionals website, you'll see Canikon diehards.


If there are camera manufacturers that are innovative it's Fujifilm, Panasonic and Sony. What has Canon delivered the last 3 years? What have they delivered this year - other than minor upgrades of existing products. Please tell me. I'm sorry ... but Canon is the next Nokia. Send me your email address and I'll gloat when this happens... it will not take long :-)

Look at Sony. They have delivered a NEX series of small cameras with great image quality. No response from Canon. They've made the best compact camera in the world with the RX-100 III. No response from Canon. They have produced the smallest full frame camera DSC-RX1, the best bridge camera with RX10 and the first and smallest Interchangeable Lens Cameras Sony A7, A7R and A7S... No response from Canon. And then look at what Fuji and Panasonic makes? I say goodbye Canon.

vladimir vanek

Canon's business aren't cameras and DSLRs. The real money goes well behind that with some 100x superzoom lenses for TV production and the like. 1 mil. a piece.
Although I agree with you that they came with no major innovation during the last years, I believe they will not be out of the game anytime soon.

1 upvote
vladimir vanek

Canon (Powershot A10) was my first digital camera and I have some sympathy with the company. I went through many P&S', entry level DSLRs up to 5D II with a portion of L-lenses. So it's not much of a happy picture to see what they showed recently. That's why I sold all of the gear and went for an Olympus E-M10 for a while. And I am rather happy with it! But what SONY did recently, deserves respect!

1 upvote

I have the XT1 for about 2 months now and the battery grip as well. I love using it. Reminds me of my F2.

Comment edited 13 seconds after posting

DPReview, you did an excellent job, once again! I'm always amazed at how thorough your coverage is, and how you're able to cover every nuance and detail, and explain it's relevance. This review obviously took a lot of work, and it shows.


DPR, among the pros you list "Solid, robust-feeling, dust-and splash-proof lenses" - what do you mean, there are no such lenses available yet.

1 upvote
Andy Westlake

Sorry, spurious 'lenses' crept in there, now corrected

1 upvote
Picasso Noir

I have play around with the x-t1 in Dublin Ireland at the camera shop they called me to take it for a spin, once i got there i was some what love the camera lay-outt, just like a classic slr film but dslr:) But i really didn't like the size, it seem that the x-t1 was made for a girl:( being that they have small hand's. if it's not broke don't fix it-keep it simple Fuji. Now go back and re-design one for a man.
But i'll take it. The 56mm 1.2 WOW!!!

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 3 minutes after posting

Nope! Just design one for girls an one for man!

Picasso Noir

I,m putting some images taken with the Fuji X-Pro1
This image are studio portrait that i taken all over the world that i travel to.

Picasso Noir

I like to share with DP Review and any one that would like to view some of my landscape image, it was just uploaded..and tell me what you think..
Ps. All images was taken with the fuji X-Pro1 mostly at ISO 100 and indoor ISO 800 to 3200..soon i'll upload some more.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 2 minutes after posting
Picasso Noir

Fuji has alway's done excellent from my first purchase of the Fuji dslr Pro s3 s5 how ever after that they stop making dslr keep me in the dark for some years I admit I was very disappointed with fuji..butttttt a few year later they drop a bombshell and professional DSLR photographers has turn head X-100 then after X-Pro1 and Ex-1 with remarkable image quality that's surpass every high-end dslr to this day including overly priced Leica rangefinder . i purchase the X-pro1 the next day. Yes it was a learning curve but quickly I was on top of it, before that i had purchase a brick Canon 5D classic I thought that Fujifilm was out all the dslr game. I wish i could share some of my Fine Art image that was I've taken with that X-Pro1 you would think i shot it with a Hasselblad medium format camera. i know the Secret of this camera inside out-that's why people don't understand this awesome piece of craftsmanship.I tell you what people i'll share a few but its gonna be screen snap shot


Hello,how can I view your photos

Picasso Noir

I'm not sure friend.
I uploaded it in DPreview like they said for every one to see.
Dose any one knows anything how to view them in DP site?

Comment edited 42 seconds after posting
Picasso Noir

Hi trickliedickie3 i had to go to my setting and enable the view option,try it now. Let me know if you have any problem viewing them.

1 upvote

To all of those who have doubts about the realities of what the X-T1 can produce in actual image IQ, please find a way to get your hands on one with one of the excellent Fujinon primes. Use a demo version of Photo Ninja to process a RAW file and then pass judgement.

Seriously, this camera has gotten a lot right. The handling, the ergonomics, the image IQ...

I am thinking that the reason so many people are making quick and mistaken negative judgements about what it actually can do quite well is because the camera is a game changer and has a lot of owners of expensive DSLRs thinking long and hard about whether or not it is time to consider buying an X-T1.

Do your own field test and process the images using Photo Ninja. Many of you will be pleasantly surprised and many of you will not be surprised because you have already seen how well Fujifilm has done previously.


That's probably true. I personally switched from Nikon to Fuji a while ago, and though the X-T1 has it's flaws, the rewards are great.

However, at a pixel level there are problems with some RAW converters. Photo Ninja is good, but not significantly better than any other, and the software and workflow itself is so awful that it isn't worth the effort. The same goes for SilkyPix
Lightroom: useable but not great with noise/sharpening/detail. Your "watercolour effect" can be found here.. Good update support through CC though.

Aperture: better conversion, better management, but no control over some terrible moire. Also update to Aperture X non existent. Poor show by Apple.

Capture One Pro; The Best for IQ and usability - just. Aperture still has the prize for workflow, but C1Pro can handle the X-trans files beautifully. If you've seen Moire in your files using Aperture or Lightroom you'll love that Phase One has got this right.

1 upvote

In any case, the differences are small. Small enough for you to keep using the DAM that you like or are used to.

Fuji could help themselves here by opening up the X-Trans to Adobe, Apple et al. I can see people coming from 36 MP might easily make the mistake of assuming that the Fuji's aren't performing in the same way that they're used to, at least at pixel level.

Personally, I'm more than happy with the X-Trans look. It's different from a DSLR, but then I knew that coming from the X100. The colour rendition is superb and the resolution doesn't kill my computer. And RAW files OOC need less attention in post.

I'll be happier still if the X-Trans conversion is given a work over by Aperture & Lightroom, but until then I'm out making pictures without compromise and without carrying a tank around my neck.

Comment edited 7 minutes after posting

That is exactly right. A lot of the negative comments come from people who don't own the X-T1, but have read something negative about it on the internet. Others, like you mention, hate the camera because it overshadows whatever they own at the moment. At the end of the day, this camera is superb in many ways...IQ, design, performance, etc. To understand it, you need to own it and shoot with it in many different situations.

Comment edited 53 seconds after posting

One more thought on raw processing.

The latest update of Adobes LR (and ACR) improved a lot. They added support for camera profiles, and it works rather well, maybe not always perfectly identical with the camera's own jpg, but close enough that i quit shooting raw+jpg, and i swiched to raw only.

However, the watercolor effect that appears on some photos (especially foliage) is due to the sharpening, and not the demozaicing itself. In this cases, if you do zero sharpening, and after that apply sharpening properly in PS to the exported image you get incredible great detail and no watercolor :)

But, to be honest, this is better to do no matter the camera...

Total comments: 648