PIX 2015
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Using the X-E1

The X-E1's body is slightly smaller and shorter and lighter than the flagship X-Pro1, which is a nice change for the hobbyist shooter. Not just the body, but also the main exposure controls are truly retro in design, with a manual shutter speed dial and, in the case of the 18-55mm zoom lens, a mechanical-style aperture ring. A manual switch determines whether the lens ring is enabled for aperture adjustments or set to Auto. If it is set to Auto, aperture is set automatically, and the ring is disabled.

There's no actual mechanical connection between the ring and the aperture, and you can rotate the ring through 360-degrees with no hard stops at maximum or minimum aperture, but when the ring's function is set to aperture, one detent movement of the ring changes the aperture by 1/3EV. In contrast, the X-mount prime lenses have a dedicated ring with markings and 1/3-stop increments, with a setting for Auto aperture marked with a red 'A.'

The X-E1's physical design is not overly ergonomic, and aside from the slight ramp on the front for your fingers, the X-E1 feels unapologetically mechanical, which is part of its charm. Regardless of the lens mounted, the X-E1 is well balanced, and the body itself is surprisingly lightweight. Body-only it feels less substantial than the X-Pro1, but with a lens mounted its heft is just about right for the size. Only the 18-55mm zoom, which weighs almost as much as the camera, really makes its presence felt.

In your hand

The X-E1 is smaller than the X-Pro1, but its handgrip and prominent thumb 'hook' provides a pretty secure hold even one-handed. The aperture ring on the lens encourages two-handed operation anyway, even when using a prime.
While we had no problem getting a good purchase on the X-E1's rectangular body and small grip, when we handed the camera and HG-XE1 grip combo around the office, everyone agreed it made an improvement.

One major drawback to the HG-XE1 grip (see image above) is having to remove it to change the battery and card; it really provides that Leica M9 experience, but not in a good way. It also tends to make the camera fall forward onto the lens when placed on a flat surface, and when holding the camera with grip attached, your hand is forced off to the right, which might be a little uncomfortable at first, but feels normal after a while.

Electronic Viewfinder

The X-E1's electronic finder is key to its operation, and the 2.36M dot OLED panel is likely the same unit as Sony uses in the NEX-7 and NEX-6 (and several of its SLT cameras), and therefore pretty well state-of-the-art. But the panel itself is far from the whole story, and Fujifilm is talking up the optics used in the eyepiece too. Two glass lenses, including one dual-sided aspheric lens, give an impressively clear and sharp view into the corners of the frame, and a relatively long eye point of 23mm makes the finder comfortable for those with glasses.

The optics are lower magnification than those used by Sony, and offer a viewfinder image about the same size as from the X-Pro1's (and therefore slightly larger than the E-M5's). Fujifilm's live preview image is also lower in contrast than Sony's, which means the X-E1's viewfinder is a little less prone to blocking-up shadows in bright conditions, at the expense of some 'punchiness' in the general viewing experience. This has no effect on the final image, but does make composition easier in contrasty scenes.

When you raise the viewfinder to your eye, the infrared sensor detects this and switches to viewfinder mode. The speed of switching is fast enough to make for a good user experience, but we've found that with a strong sun behind you, the eye sensor doesn't always know when you're holding your eye to the finder, and can operate erratically.

The X-E1's EVF uses a 2.36M-dot OLED panel. On the right of the eyepiece is a proximity sensor that allows the camera to switch automatically between the EVF and LCD, or you can use the 'View Mode' button to switch manually. On the left is a diopter adjustment wheel.

Detail resolution is very high, as we'd expect from the specification, although like all EVFs, diagonal lines at a shallow angle to horizontal/vertical do display some 'stair stepping'. The X-E1's EVF also becomes somewhat laggy in poor light, a little more so than we've seen from the Sony NEX-6 but we wouldn't call it problematic unless you're trying to follow reasonably fast movement. Interestingly, the X-E1's live view image freezes and pixelates for a fraction of a second when AF is acquired, which can be distracting, and gives the impression of a lower-resolution 'experience' when composing a shot.

Setting exposure mode and shooting parameters

Setting both lens and shutter speed to Auto is equivalent to selecting Program mode. Shutter and Aperture priority are set by setting lens or shutter dial to Auto, making a manual selection with one or the other; and Manual mode is equally obvious: setting both controls manually. Couldn't be easier, nor more familiar to those accustomed to working with analog-style cameras designed in the last century. While it might seem quaint to some, it's quite logical to have the controls for the lens on the lens, while the shutter controls are on the camera body. Photography students would likely benefit from the distinction, too.

Shutter speed dial
Aperture dial
Aperture Priority
Sets aperture
Shutter Priority
Sets shutter speed
Sets shutter speed
Sets aperture

In Program mode, you can shift the camera's chosen exposure parameters towards a larger aperture/faster shutter speed or smaller aperture/slower speeds using the Left/Right keys; shifted values show on-screen in yellow. Program shift is unavailable if Auto ISO or Auto DR is set.

The Fujifilm X-E1 doesn't have an ISO dial or even a dedicated ISO button. However; you can assign ISO to the programmable Fn button beside the shutter for one-touch access, or access it quickly from the Quick Menu. We'd like to have the option of changing it directly using the rear dial, which does nothing in normal shooting.

Quick Menu

Pressing the 'Q' button on the back of the Fujifilm X-E1 brings up a Quick Menu, where you can change 16 options including ISO, DR, Film Simulation and the self timer. This isn't exactly a ground-breaking concept, but Fujifilm's implementation scores heavily for clarity of layout and simplicity of operation. The icons are large and easy enough to understand; once selected their function is displayed at the top of the screen. You simply move around the panel using the 4-way controller, then spin the rear dial to change the selected setting. The full set of functions available is listed in the table below.

Fujifilm X-E1 Q Menu options
 Select Custom Setting  ISO  Dynamic Range  White Balance
 Noise Reduction  Image Size  Image Quality  Film Simulation
 Highlight Tone  Shadow Tone  Color  Sharpness
 Self Timer  AF Mode  Flash Mode  LCD Brightness

The various settings are interdependent, which can be confusing at first until you know what's going on. For example you can't select expanded DR settings at ISO 200, or use extended ISOs when shooting RAW, and have to change the conflicting setting first. Then, of course, you have to remember to change it back again afterwards; for example it's all-too-easy to forget to re-enable RAW after using the extended ISOs.

In movie mode, the Q menu gets dramatically pared-down to just four options; Movie Mode (i.e. Full HD or HD), white balance, film simulation, and LCD brightness.

Customizable Fn Button

The Fujifilm X-E1 has a large button labeled 'Fn' beside the shutter, to which you can assign your most-used function (we tend to use it for ISO normally - see comments above). Its exact behavior depends upon the selected function, either toggling directly between alternative settings, or bringing-up a sub-menu of available options.

The currently-assigned function can be quickly changed by pressing the Fn button down and and holding it for a second, which calls up the selection menu shown above. This can be really useful, for example to quickly access depth-of-field preview or multiple-exposure mode. The available options are listed in the table below.

Fujifilm X-E1 Fn button options
 Function  Type  Notes
 Multiple Exposure  Toggle  Turns multiple exposure on/off
 Preview Depth of Field  Toggle  Sets lens to taking aperture to preview depth of field
 ISO*  Activate/
 In OVF, highlights ISO - change with dial or L/R keys
 In EVF/LCD, activates ISO submenu, change with up/down keys
 Self Timer*  Submenu  These settings each bring up a submenu listing available options.

 Image Size*  Submenu
 Image Quality*  Submenu
 Dynamic Range*  Submenu
 Film Simulation*  Submenu
 White Balance*  Submenu
 AF Mode*  Submenu
 Select Custom Setting*  Submenu
 Movie  Toggle  Enters/exits movie mode - press shutter to start/stop recording
 RAW  Toggle  Turns RAW recording on/off for one shot
 *Also available from Q menu

Silent mode

The X-E1 offers Fujifilm's familiar 'Silent Mode', which is turned on and off by a 'long press' of the DISP button. It's actually something of a misnomer, as it doesn't just disable the electronic operational noises, but also the AF illuminator and and any external flash. Obviously, though, it can't disable the sound of the mechanical shutter - but luckily this is relatively quiet and discreet.

You can independently turn off all of the electronic noises using the 'Operation Vol' option in the Setup Menu (tab 2), which you'll probably want to do anyway as straight out of the box, the X-E1 insists on quietly beeping at you each and every time you press a button. You can also disable the AF illuminator in the Shooting Menu (tab4), and set the flash mode to 'Suppressed' from the Q menu. (Or, of course, simply turn the flash unit off.)

Shutter noise

One important consideration for the X-E1's target market is operational noise, and especially the shutter; one great attraction of this type of camera is that with no flapping mirror, it can in principle be rather quieter than an SLR. Many mirrorless cameras, however, have shutters that are sufficiently noisy to offer little advantage in this respect.

The X-E1 still uses a focal-plane shutter, so inevitably is louder than the lens shutter-equipped X100 / X100S, but it's quieter than most of its mirrorless contemporaries (with the exception of the Olympus OM-D E-M5). The shutter sound is also relatively low-pitched, and therefore less intrusive. This means that you'll be able to use the X-E1 in situations where an SLR would be unwelcome, although the X100 / S is still a better choice when the camera has to be as close to silent as possible.

Electronic level: Shooting from the hip

Life is less interesting viewed from the proverbial five-foot-nine-inch perspective, and a live view camera with a built-in on-screen level really helps find more than a few different perspectives without straining your back. The X-E1's level isn't perfect, nor does it give you any information about pitch - your upward or downward tilt - but maintaining a relatively straight horizon line is half the battle when using the rear LCD to frame your images. we did find, however, that the level isn't always spot-on, so we recommend other solutions when getting an absolutely straight horizon is of crucial importance.


We encountered a few bugs during our time with the X-E1, but far fewer than we experienced with earlier X-series cameras. The Drive mode button on our sample camera occasionally stopped working, which was fixed with a quick restart - at other times exposure would simply be wrong, either under or overexposing every image. In those cases, removing and replacing the battery cleared the problem.

Not exactly a bug, but vexing nonetheless - the exposure compensation dial on our X-E1 is too easy to rotate by accident. Often, simply handling the camera carelessly, or letting it bump against a bag or clothing was enough to nudge the dial out of its neutral '0' position.

Halfway through the review, after verifying that accidental exposure compensation had affected too many shots, we employed a bit of Scotch tape to the dial and squashed that 'bug'. It's easy to remove when necessary, and cheap to replace when it gets worn out. Fujifilm claimed to have tightened up the dial on the recently-announced X100S, which can only be a good thing.

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Total comments: 17
Isaac Wood

This maybe a bit random but when shooting at the maximum fps will the X-E1 work better than the Fujifilm Finepix HS20exr because some of the shots i have gotten from my HS20 exr have been all right auto focus wise at the maximum fps for the sports that i take photos for which is the field events in athletics but im wondering if the X-E1 is better.


Hello, can you help me with deciding between FujiFilm X-E1 and Canon 600D with set lenses? Size and weight is no concern. Which camera has better image quality and which one is more versatile ?

Wojciech Sawicki

Between those two? The X-E1. With the right adapters (available all over e-bay and CHEAP) you can put many, many more lenses on it (including Canon...), especially old rangefinder lenses such as those made for Leica M or LTM/M39. there are absolute gems among these. The 600D will have better AF (especially tracking moving subjects) but for everyday shooting, the Fuji will do just fine. Also, you're saying size and weight don't matter? Trust me, you they will very soon :D So yeah, Fuji.

1 upvote

These are two very different cameras, regarding size, viefinder, and other things. Depends on what you need, and it's best to try them these reviews will cover specifications but quite often what matters to you might not be mentioned in reviews.

1 upvote

I have had this camera for almost 3 weeks already and I also can’t figure out how to set the minimum shutter speed when using auto ISO, can you shed a light on that?


1 upvote

I use the quick shortcut assigned to the Q (or Fn? The one next to the shutter button) button. There, you can quickly change the minimum shutter speed while using auto ISO.


With the new update, select "ISO Auto" by pressing the right (->) button on the d-pad
There you see the settings for the minimum and maximum settings, as well as the minimum shutter speed when under auto settings

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
1 upvote

why was the X-E1 picture taken with a 35mm lens while MFT had the 50mm mounted and FF like A99 or 6D had 85mm???

1 upvote

The 35mm F1.4 and the 60mm F2.4 Macro (the only two normal / short tele primes at the time of writing) are about equally sharp at f/5.6 and f/8 (see http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1487/cat/105 and http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1486/cat/105 ). In addition, the 35mm doesn't exhibit much field curvature, unlike, say, the latter-released 27mm/f2.8 pancake (more info on this problem: http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x/855-fuji27f28?start=1 )



Finally, now that the absolutely stellar (see http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1674/cat/105 ) Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R is out, non-macro people able to shell out the double the price generally prefer it to the old 60mm F2.4. (Of course, this may not have been a point in choosing the 35mm over the 60mm back then. Nevertheless, we are pretty lucky to have a studio shot demoing the field curvature / sharpness of prolly the most popular Fuji X prime, and not that of one that has since been overshadowed by a newly released one.)


continuing my post . . .

I understand why Fujifilm designed the lens rings with those slim grooves for stylistic reasons, but I find myself frequently turning the wrong one because they all feel the same. I'll get used to it, but a rubber ring on the zoom would help. Also, the zoom ring is stiff and those little grooves are slippery. Rubber would help the grip.

I would suggest turning off the image display as the default is 1.5 seconds. The image display clogs up the EVF for 1.5 seconds making it impractical to follow action. It's in the menu under setup screen 2.

1 upvote

Had mine a short while, purchased in part due to this review.

A couple things worth mentioning in terms of this review. The exposure compensation dial on my camera has a very firm detent so there's no chance of an inadvertent movement of the dial. I've loaded body firmware 2.0 and 18-55mm lens firmware 3.0. According to Fujifilm, these updates are supposed to address a number of issues, including the slower focusing. I find the camera/lens focus speed to be quite good with this update in place.


Had my xe-1 2 weeks now and I'm blown away by the quality of the images taken with the kit zoom lens. The images could easily be printed at about 50" and are in practice comparable to my D800. AMAZING!
In use too I love it. The EVF whilst not as clear as an SLR viewfinder, tells me all I need to know and enables me to see all the menus without putting on reading specs. I use it exclusively in EVF mode. It is light and handles superbly. The image stabilisation seems incredible- so far, as good as the D800 shots from a tripod! If you're in doubt, go and buy one.


Can the back screen be turned off completely so only the electronic viewfinder is used for composing and shooting?

1 upvote

when you say ":but powering off usually cleared the error." can you expand a bit on that. Was there a different fix at another time?


What about shutter lag? Any appreciable delay from the time one pushes the button til the shutter actually releases?

Total comments: 17