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Body Elements

The Fujifilm X-E1 is based around the same 16MP X-Trans CMOS and XF lens mount as the the X-Pro1.

You can also use Leica M lenses via Fujifilm's own adapter, and a huge range of other manual focus optics using third-party adapters.
The top-plate shutter speed dial is essentially the same as the X100's. This means there's no locking button for the A position, and the slowest marked speed is 1/4 sec.

Speeds from 1/4 to 30 seconds are accessed from the T position, and set using the left and right keys of the 4-way controller.
The rear dial is perfectly placed for operation by your right thumb, and can be used to change settings in concert with the various buttons.

In manual focus mode, clicking it in engages a magnified view in the EVF for precise focusing. New to the X-E1 is the ability to select between 3x and 10x magnification, simply by spinning the dial.
The Fujifilm X-E1 has an autofocus-assist lamp above the handgrip to aid focusing in dark conditions. This can, naturally, be turned off in the menu if you prefer.

It can also be disabled, along with the flash and operational sounds, by pressing down the 'DISP' button for 2 seconds to enter 'Silent' mode.
The tiny flash unit pops up out of the top plate, and is activated by pressing a small button next to the viewfinder eyepiece. It has a guide number of just 7m at ISO 200.

As on many cameras of this type, you can pull the flash back so it's pointing upwards and bounce it from a ceiling for more attractive lighting. It's not an 'official' feature, so use it at your own risk.
There's also a standard hot-shoe for connecting an external flash, including Fujifilm's dedicated models (EF-X20, EF-20, and EF-42).

The two small holes in front of it are the stereo microphones for movie recording.
The front of the camera has Fujifilm's now-standard focus mode switch - M for manual, C for continuous AF, and S for single-shot AF. On the X-E1, it's very close to the lens mount.
The X-E1's connectors are found on the left side of the camera. From top to bottom there's a 2.5mm socket for an external stereo microphone or wired remote, an HDMI connector for playing back video, and a USB/AV-out socket.

The USB port also accepts Fujifilm's RR-80 wired release, while the mic socket can be used with a wide range of Canon- or Pentax-compatible remote release accessories.
The Fujifilm X-E1 uses the same battery as the X-Pro1, the NP-W126. This 7.2V, 8.7Wh battery holds enough juice to give 350 shots in standard CIPA tests using either the LCD or EVF - 50 more than the X-Pro1.

The SD card slots in alongside the battery under the same door.
The tripod socket of the X-E1 is off-center from the lens, which might complicate alignment for some tripod work, such as panorama shooting.

It's also right next to the base compartment door. This means that you have no chance of changing battery or card with the camera on a tripod.
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Total comments: 17
Isaac Wood

This maybe a bit random but when shooting at the maximum fps will the X-E1 work better than the Fujifilm Finepix HS20exr because some of the shots i have gotten from my HS20 exr have been all right auto focus wise at the maximum fps for the sports that i take photos for which is the field events in athletics but im wondering if the X-E1 is better.


Hello, can you help me with deciding between FujiFilm X-E1 and Canon 600D with set lenses? Size and weight is no concern. Which camera has better image quality and which one is more versatile ?

Wojciech Sawicki

Between those two? The X-E1. With the right adapters (available all over e-bay and CHEAP) you can put many, many more lenses on it (including Canon...), especially old rangefinder lenses such as those made for Leica M or LTM/M39. there are absolute gems among these. The 600D will have better AF (especially tracking moving subjects) but for everyday shooting, the Fuji will do just fine. Also, you're saying size and weight don't matter? Trust me, you they will very soon :D So yeah, Fuji.

1 upvote

These are two very different cameras, regarding size, viefinder, and other things. Depends on what you need, and it's best to try them these reviews will cover specifications but quite often what matters to you might not be mentioned in reviews.

1 upvote

I have had this camera for almost 3 weeks already and I also can’t figure out how to set the minimum shutter speed when using auto ISO, can you shed a light on that?


1 upvote

I use the quick shortcut assigned to the Q (or Fn? The one next to the shutter button) button. There, you can quickly change the minimum shutter speed while using auto ISO.


With the new update, select "ISO Auto" by pressing the right (->) button on the d-pad
There you see the settings for the minimum and maximum settings, as well as the minimum shutter speed when under auto settings

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
1 upvote

why was the X-E1 picture taken with a 35mm lens while MFT had the 50mm mounted and FF like A99 or 6D had 85mm???

1 upvote

The 35mm F1.4 and the 60mm F2.4 Macro (the only two normal / short tele primes at the time of writing) are about equally sharp at f/5.6 and f/8 (see and ). In addition, the 35mm doesn't exhibit much field curvature, unlike, say, the latter-released 27mm/f2.8 pancake (more info on this problem: )



Finally, now that the absolutely stellar (see ) Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R is out, non-macro people able to shell out the double the price generally prefer it to the old 60mm F2.4. (Of course, this may not have been a point in choosing the 35mm over the 60mm back then. Nevertheless, we are pretty lucky to have a studio shot demoing the field curvature / sharpness of prolly the most popular Fuji X prime, and not that of one that has since been overshadowed by a newly released one.)


continuing my post . . .

I understand why Fujifilm designed the lens rings with those slim grooves for stylistic reasons, but I find myself frequently turning the wrong one because they all feel the same. I'll get used to it, but a rubber ring on the zoom would help. Also, the zoom ring is stiff and those little grooves are slippery. Rubber would help the grip.

I would suggest turning off the image display as the default is 1.5 seconds. The image display clogs up the EVF for 1.5 seconds making it impractical to follow action. It's in the menu under setup screen 2.

1 upvote

Had mine a short while, purchased in part due to this review.

A couple things worth mentioning in terms of this review. The exposure compensation dial on my camera has a very firm detent so there's no chance of an inadvertent movement of the dial. I've loaded body firmware 2.0 and 18-55mm lens firmware 3.0. According to Fujifilm, these updates are supposed to address a number of issues, including the slower focusing. I find the camera/lens focus speed to be quite good with this update in place.


Had my xe-1 2 weeks now and I'm blown away by the quality of the images taken with the kit zoom lens. The images could easily be printed at about 50" and are in practice comparable to my D800. AMAZING!
In use too I love it. The EVF whilst not as clear as an SLR viewfinder, tells me all I need to know and enables me to see all the menus without putting on reading specs. I use it exclusively in EVF mode. It is light and handles superbly. The image stabilisation seems incredible- so far, as good as the D800 shots from a tripod! If you're in doubt, go and buy one.


Can the back screen be turned off completely so only the electronic viewfinder is used for composing and shooting?

1 upvote

when you say ":but powering off usually cleared the error." can you expand a bit on that. Was there a different fix at another time?


What about shutter lag? Any appreciable delay from the time one pushes the button til the shutter actually releases?

Total comments: 17