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Image Processing Adjustments

The G2 allows for control over three aspects of the cameras internal processing algorithms. You can alter the sharpening, contrast and saturation of images. Although these settings are available in RAW mode they are not applied to the image in-camera but are stored in the RAW image headers as the default settings for the TWAIN acquire module.

Contrast -1 Contrast 0 Contrast +1
Saturation -1 Saturation 0 Saturation +1
Sharpening -1 Sharpening 0 Sharpening +1

As you can see each of these settings changes is relatively subtle, those users who prefer their colours to be bright and vivid straight out of the camera will probably opt for Saturation +1. Those who are more purist will probably leave the Saturation setting alone and use Contrast -1 to maintain as much detail as possible.

Colour Effect exposure mode

Gone is the G1's "BW" exposure mode, to be replaced by a new 'Colour Effect' mode which provides four different post-processing colour effects (including black and white). This mode is essentially equivalent to exposure mode 'P' but with the additional post-processing effects.

Colour Effect: Vivid Colour Effect: Neutral
Colour Effect: Sepia Colour Effect: Black and White

As you can see the 'Vivid' colour effect gives very strong and vivid colours, these won't be to everyone's taste but could be useful if shooting dull, blue sky dominated or shots only for a computer monitor. The 'Neutral' effect tones colours right down which could be useful for maintaining a wide colour gamut.

Digital Zoom

Readers of my reviews will know I'm not a huge fan of digital zoom as it's often a badly implemented and seldom used (by owners) marketing "ploy" to sell cameras which don't have an optical zoom. The G2 has a 3.0 x optical zoom, and various digital zoom levels which appear after full telephoto (if you have digital zoom enabled).

No Digital Zoom, equiv. 3x zoom Digital Zoom x1.4
Digital Zoom x1.8 Digital Zoom x2.2
Digital Zoom x2.7 Digital Zoom x3.6

Digital Zoom is simply cropping (selecting the mid part of the image) and sampling-up, the only advantage in doing digital zoom inside the camera is if you are using resolutions lower than maximum.

Aperture Priority Mode

Aperture priority is where you designate the aperture and the camera calculates the best shutter speed, if the exposure is outside of the cameras range (either over or under exposing) the nearest shutter speed will display in red on the LCD screen. Used properly Aperture Priority can be invaluable as it has a direct effect on depth of field (the distance in front and behind the focal point which will be in focus when taking the shot).

The G2 has a good range of available apertures:

  • Wide: F2.0, F2.2, F2.5, F2.8, F3.2, F3.5, F4.0, F4.5, F5.0, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8.0
  • Tele: F2.5, F2.8, F3.2, F3.5, F4.0, F4.5, F5.0, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8.0

Aperture Priority is an exposure mode is accessed by turning the exposure dial to Av. You can change aperture by pressing the left or right arrow keys on the 4-way controller. A basic example of aperture priority is shown below for more read my digital photography glossary:

F2.2, 1/60s
(Less depth of field)
F8.0, 1/6 s
(Most depth of field)

Shutter Priority Mode

Shutter priority is where you designate the shutter speed and the camera calculates the correct aperture, if the exposure is outside of the cameras range (either over or under exposing) the nearest aperture will display in red on the LCD screen. For more read my digital photography glossary.

The G2 has a wide range of shutter speeds:

  • 1/1000, 1/800, 1/640, 1/500, 1/400, 1/320, 1/250, 1/200, 1/160, 1/125, 1/100, 1/80, 1/60, 1/50, 1/40, 1/30, 1/25, 1/20, 1/15, 1/13, 1/10, 1/8, 1/6, 1/5, 1/4, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.8, 1, 1.3, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.2, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 13, 15 secs

Manual Focus

Focusing manually is far easier on the G2 than the G1 due to a number of factors. First of all there are far more focus points (over 60), secondly when you focus manually there's a ruler display on the left side of the screen (in both m/cm and ft/in) which indicates the current distance. Lastly there's the useful (if slightly blocky) magnified loupe area in the center of the current AF frame, this makes it easy to choose the focus position as you can see below:

Focused on green bobbin Focus on pink bobbin


Bracketing is the automatic exposure of an odd number of frames, typically three or five, over and under exposed by equal steps to enable the photographer to select the best exposed frame at a later time. The G2 supports bracketing of three shots at either +/- 0.3, 0.7, 1.0, 1.3, 1.7 or 2.0 EV from the metered exposure, it takes the normal shot first followed by the under then over exposed shots. This option is available in P, Tv (Shutter Priority) and Av (Aperture Priority) exposure modes. The sample below was shot with 1.0 EV bracketing.

1/50 sec, F3.2
(Normal exposure)
1/60 sec, F4.0
(-1.0 EV exposure)
1/250 sec, F2.2
(+1.0 EV exposure)
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G2 was my first digital, which produced thousands of excellent pictures.
I wanted an SLR again so bought a Rebel T1i in 2010.
Later wanted a smaller camera, tried out a Canon SD1200 but poor usability and very poor image quality. I bought a Nikon S6200 which takes very good pictures, but suffers the ills of a small, cheap camera.
June 2014 I didn't want to pack my SLR to Europe, so after researching I chose a Powershot G16 over a Fuji X20 and Panasonic ZS40. VERY pleased with the G16!
Now to Dec 2014. Bought a Canon EF 24-105 L IS USM for my Rebel. Looks impressive, but after a day taking pictures and comparing results, the G16 is so good, in fact, for outdoors, side by side image quality in many cases is as good or better than the Rebel! Maybe my Rebel is getting tired?
IMO, unless photography is your living, the only benefit of a SLR is the picture taking experience (which is significant) and to show off your fancy camera and lenses. Otherwise, a high end compact is sufficient.