Sigma DP2 Merrill

Announced Feb 8, 2012 •
15 megapixels | 50 mm
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I downloaded my new pics to the computer as so many times before, but there was an additional file on the SD card: "SUSERR" - filename OOOFPGA.csv with 2.38kb. I have not opened the file as I'm naturally suspicious of such things. I took it off the card and only copied it to my desktop unopened. I googled suserr and it brings up so many entries for Instagram - I have never had to do with Instagram, and am not a subscriber. I suspect the file name suserr could have to do with s*user...,...
Rudi
By: Rudi (4 weeks ago)
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Got me a E-M10 today, installed Olympus Viewer 3.0 to use as a RAW converter and had to realise this piece of software is sloooooooow. Sigma´s SPP which I use for developing my DP2 Merrill files (55MB file size) is fast compared to the  Oly Software. It takes about six to ten seconds until one can see the changes made to any parameter in the Oly converter. Thats about three times what the Sigma Software needs and that is known as slow, but it manages 50MB files. The Oly RAW files are just...
Rudi
By: Rudi (2 months ago)
9
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Finally got my DP2M and realized a problem with white letters on a red-magenta background, when doing PP in PSE after RAW conversion in SPP. Full Image is here : 46MPix / 8Bit JPEG why is there color bleeding in the text underneath the number 4 ?  It doesn´t show in SPP, but when working on the file in PSE the letters become light magenta. Anyone an idea how to avoid this effect ? Any suggestions appreciated. Thak you in advance, Rudi.
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Thank you for taking your time to answer my questions. I would like to use my DP2 Merrill for indoor portraits with a Mola Beauty Dish. I know my camera's limitations. So, using the 30mm what color background should I use to get the maximum blow out ? Thank you
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Answered
Hello peer,My Sigma DP2M command dial does not work when I use/turn it to change the aperture or shutter speed. If the aperture clicks to say 4 it goes back to 2.8, same thing happens with the shutter speed. Anyone have experienced the same problems?Thank you for your feedbackIqbalSigma DPM1, Sigma DPM2, Sigma DPM3, Fujifilm XE-2, Sony RX100 mk2, Ricoh GR, Fujinon XF 35,60,Samyang 8mm
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Is there any way to avoid doughnut-shaped bokeh when shooting a high contrast image wide open with DP2M? Something like circular gradient filter glass, or multiple exposure stacking or such? I'm learning to use DP2M camera, and on some images (esp. macro) those little circles and edge halos look weird. Here's an example image with ring-shaped artifacts in the middle out-of-focus area. a pancake
Moleskine
By: Moleskine (6 months ago)
14
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I'm using a DP3M and a DP2M And I just Love the IQ. For travel and low light I rely on my E-M5.As I didn't have the opportunity to use the A7 I'm curious to hear your opinions: Would the A7 deliver an equivalent IQ while providing the versatility of an OM-D?
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Hello everyone, I did quite a bit of online research but couldn't figure it out. Is it possible to mount a single yongnuo 603 on the camera and then connect it with a cable to a studio flash (PC-Sync-end in yongnuo, other end in studio flash)? I know its possible to use two yongnuos and connect the receiver to a studio flash, but then I could not use sync speeds higher than 1/320. The idea is to use only one on a sigma dp2 merrill (which does not allow direct connection to a flash via sync...
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I have two cameras which show changes in exposure on their viewfinder and LCD, so I use exposure compensation if I think that will improve the look.  But on both cameras, and i think on most cameras, this setting doesn't change, even when turning the camera off and then on again. What's the rationale for that?  I can see leaving the compensation the same for a series of shots with the same lighting, but other than that, I wish there was a button push or reset that would make the compensation...
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Hello After lurking in this forum for a while I took the plunge and ordered a DP2 Merrill as a backup to my Nikon SLR. One of the things that attracted me to the Merrill was the quality and tonal range of B&W images I saw on this site and others. My question is what do you find the best approach to achieving optimal  monochrome images - setting b&w colour mode in camera, or post-processing colour images in SPP or other programme after raw conversion? Sorry if this question has been raised...
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