Announced Apr 19, 2012 •
20 megapixels | 3″ screen | APS-C sensor
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Hi Everyone, I bought a new NX1000 and have been using an old MC 50mm on it. No matter on what mode I shoot, I always miss out on something. To explain briefly, In Aperture mode, I cannot seem to set the shutter speed because its grayed out and I cannot select it. In Program mode, the exposure setting is grayed out(the one from -3 to +3). In manual mode, ISO settings is grayed out. I cannot seem to use the shutter priority because I always get an error which says "Check Lens". The main...
Hi dear friends, This is my first time logging in here. I have a question about my shot taken 2 days ago. Attached are the exif and the image. I used f/22 to get LE shot...and the result is there were many dirts/dots on my picture. Can anyone help me explain what happened?i don't think it's because of my lens...is it because the body of my cam..I am using nx1000 20-50mm lens. Thank you so much.
Hi everyone, I love my NX1000. It hit the right price point last year and came with more than enough features for my needs. However, I've never been able to take a perfectly sharp picture with it. Everything looks fine on the LCD, but after zooming in (using GIMP, IrfanView, and Samsung's Viewer), things just seem blurry. Shaky. Still objects, like leaves and trees, have a ghosting effect. This happens even in "smart"mode. Does anyone know how I can stabilize my shots while in the...
Hi All, longtime lurker, first-time poster. A couple of weeks ago (after I got the 45mm lens and put it on), my pictures have all had a small shadow/obstruction at the top of the frame (image below). I've swapped out various combinations of lenses and filters and it persists, so I feel fairly confident that it's not a problem in any of those, but in the camera itself. To me it looks physical, rather than a glitch, so my question is can anyone give me an idea of how to fix this? cheers, Rich
I am looking for a smaller mirrorless camera for shooting in multiple different settings...but mainly I want to find the right combination of camera and lens options for taking night time concert photos with varying distances (I would like the option to get the whole band or a single subject) My current point and shoot Nikon AW100 does not cut it at night without the flash for concert pics. I could find another point and shoot but I figured that with some of the entry level mirroless systems...
I can get either a level gauge or a histogram to display while framing by pressing DISP. But can I somehow get both at the same time? I find both quite useful. I have gridlines, of course, which kinda do the same work as the level gauge, but those wash out entirely in strong sun.