Olympus E-30

Announced Nov 5, 2008 •
12 megapixels | 2.7 screen | Four Thirds sensor
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Please rate what you consider the seven best Olympus DSLRs ever. List seven cameras from 1st place to 7th place. No ties, please. Please choose from this list: Olympus E-1 Olympus E-10 Olympus E-20 Olympus E-3 Olympus E-30 Olympus E-300 Olympus E-330 Olympus E-400 Olympus E-410 Olympus E-420 Olympus E-450 Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-510 Olympus E-520 Olympus E-620 Each first place receives 7 points, 2nd place = six points, etc.
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The Peleng 8mm/3.5 is a circular fisheye for 35mm format cameras--because of this it should act as a diagonal fisheye on Four Thirds sensors. Before Samyang came on the scene, this lens seemed to be the only reasonably priced alternative to the native 8mm f/3.5 for Four Thirds. But discussion about its performance hasn't been easy to find as of late. It's made in Belarus, and it costs about $250 shipped, so it doesn't have any cost savings over the Samyang fisheyes for MFT or NEX. But...
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I've made it through enough forum posts to have found the advice recommending only using the full ISO steps, and I've set ISO STEP to be 1EV (which changed the manual ISO settings available). With the camera in ISO-AUTO, making a slow pan from light to dark, I see the intermediate ISO values in the viewfinder.  Am I correct in assuming that you cannot prevent use of intermediate ISO settings in ISO-AUTO, or have I missed some other control which would also limit the auto settings? This isn't...
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I would like to learn whether or not it would help to buy a faster/brighter lens to address what I am about to describe. As to background, I am an enthusiast but by no means a pro. I've owned mostly P&S cameras with the only other DSLR being an Olympus E-300, which I found to be an excellent outdoor/landscape camera. The D3300 is an entirely different animal, however, so I hope to receive feedback: In scene/auto modes under full sun the camera often selects a small aperture paired to a oddly...
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After years without enough time to enjoy my ancient E-20N, I can see some retirement light at the end of the tunnel, and have managed an upgrade to a used E-30 body and the 14-54 mm F/2.8-3.5 zoom (abandoned system, used gear == affordable for me).  I've had it long enough to charge a battery, put the parts together, run through settings reset and card formatting, and verify that it successfully captures an image. That means it has already generated questions :-) If I turn the camera off...
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Does anyone have problems with their memory card being renamed "no name" every time it comes out of the camera? With my E-500 and E-30, I used multiple cards and they retained their unique names even if swapped between cameras. With my E-M1 I have tried with three different sdhc cards (given a name while connected to the computer) and upon reloading after the card has been inserted into the camera, it comes back again as "no name"  Could not find a thread related to this issue and I am unsure...
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After nine wonderful years, we need to leave our E-300 behind for greener pastures.  I am looking at the E-620, but wonder if the two Zukio lenses we already own easily move to this new platform.  I assume yes, as they are both part of the EVolt series, but would value a more educated opinion.
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I bought my e-30 in 2009 and after a couple of months it started to produce a high pitched noise when the SSWF fired. It still does it today and my experience with dust particles on the sensor says that if there's dust then i have to remove it manually. Any ideas if it is some type of malfunction?
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I've searched and found a few threads on this topic in the forums, but wanted to ask explicitly just to be sure: lately my 12-60mm has been over- and under-exposing shots.  In some cases the viewfinder image visibly gets dimmer while I'm composing a shot, and then stays dim.  At first I assumed it was my E-30 because it has behaved strangely in the past (software glitches I think), but in the most recent case I switched to my 50-200mm and found it worked fine, so I conclude it's the 12-60...
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I am using a Nikon D90 atm, BUT, I've set it at 12.2 megapixels yet when I open even the raw file in PS its pixelated beyond comprehension, what on earth have I done wrong? (it has grain and that ok from the low liught, but its not noise, just horrid pixelisation, my Olympus E-300 and E-500 shoot better quality than the D90. Mind you, I've never used a Nikon before and finding navigating a little hard. So my question is this, should I stick with the Nkion D90? Or would my Olympus E-500 be ok...
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