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Olympus OM-D E-M1: First Impressions Review

By dpreview staff on Sep 10, 2013 at 04:00 GMT

The Olympus OM-D E-M1 has just been announced, stepping into the O-MD line as both the flagship Micro Four Thirds camera and successor to the E-5 DSLR. Olympus is billing the E-M1 as the E-5's successor because it's the first m4/3 camera to offer decent autofocus with legacy Four Thirds lenses.

The reason for the improved Four Thirds autofocus performance is the E-M1's 16.3-megapixel Live MOS sensor, which has on-chip phase detection. This promises that the E-M1 will focus legacy Four Thirds lenses (using the optional MMF-3 adapter) at much faster speeds than previous Olympus m4/3 cameras.

We've been shooting with a production E-M1 for some time, and have prepared some first impressions, including a samples gallery and studio test shots. Follow the link below to learn more about Olympus's latest flagship.

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Discuss in the forums

Comments

Total comments: 2127
12345
Zoron
By Zoron (1 day ago)

is the EM1 HLD-7 vertical grip made of metal or plastic?

Comment edited 36 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
Robert Evagelista
By Robert Evagelista (1 week ago)

This Camera have rejuvenated my love for Photography.
http://robertevangelista.blogspot.com/

0 upvotes
JeanPierre Thibaudeau
By JeanPierre Thibaudeau (3 weeks ago)

Mistake?
I think theres a mistake on page 14 of the EM1 review, when comparing EM1 with EM5, right above the yellow pencils in the 3rd group of images: both columns indicates EM1 ISO 6400. Shouldn't the right column indicate EM5?
Thank you.

0 upvotes
17868AC9D7564D0187414294149CADCF

Can you adjust the focus point on the M1 while looking through the viewfinder?

0 upvotes
Andy Westlake
By Andy Westlake (3 weeks ago)

Yes, this can be done simply by using the 4-way controller

0 upvotes
Augustus Urbex
By Augustus Urbex (1 month ago)

Are there any updates on the hot pixel/extreme noise issue in long exposures on the E-M1 yet? I havent heard anything new in a long time. Has Olympus fixed the issue? Were only early EM-1s affected? I want to buy one, but with this issue, that is unlikely.

For those of you who don't know what I am talking about, it is well known that the E-M1 produces an ocean of hot pixels on long exposures of 30 seconds or more at base ISO, and the exposure time needed to make them visible drops by one stop for every stop you bump the ISO. Turning on dark frame subtraction almost eliminates the issue, but this makes star trails, fireworks, bracketed long exposures impossible. Examples can be seen here : http://www.seldomscenephotography.com/2013/11/14/the-olympus-e-m1-and-long-exposures/

DPReview : PLEASE update your review to include information on this issue with sample images. This is a HUGE problem that big review sites need to address and let be known, or Olympus may never fix the issue.

1 upvote
Frank C.
By Frank C. (1 month ago)

Great camera but sensor is too small to control dof or generate bokeh properly, I'll stick to my iPhone for everyday shooting and my D610 for the serious stuff

1 upvote
bluevellet
By bluevellet (1 month ago)

Cool. Have fun shooting with your iphone.

6 upvotes
gchamp727
By gchamp727 (1 month ago)

Unless you are a professional portrait shooter, or one of those amateurs who is hung-up on blurred backgrounds, dof is just one small ingredient in a good photo. Besides, there are other ways to get a shallow dof. If you like shooting posed portraits and have an addiction to shallow dof fine, but for shooting from the hip, spontaneous portraits or street shooting ... good luck sticking that bazooka full frame and giant lens in someones face. And if minimal depth of field is what you crave, dump the D610 soccer mom full frame camera and jump up to a medium frame Hasselblad. Meanwhile, if you look at the pro level photos on 500px, you will see that only a small percentage of them use a shallow dof to blur out the background. My point is .. shallow depth of field is not and should not be the single criterion for buying a camera.

4 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (3 weeks ago)

Back as a teenager, I schooled my knowledge of photography from Aaron Sussman's book, written mostly in the 60's, wherein the statement is made to the effect of, 'Even the simplest camera is better than any photographer'. Still true after all the improvements. Still true with musical instruments, golf clubs, hunting rifles, etc. There is no best camera, just good and better. A better musician, golfer, shooter, or photographer will embarrass us with our own inadequate equipment. Consequently, we can use their better equipment to our same result.

Anyhoo, depth of field has more aspects than just format size. Camera to subject distance, subject to background distance, focal length are all examples of how to control depth of field. The physics of photography have not changed but apparently the knowledge of them has, sadly.

Interestingly, in the 60's, 35mm (same size as Full Frame today) was considered a amateur miniature format and one of it's advantages was it's deep depth of field.

1 upvote
Zoron
By Zoron (2 months ago)

Em-1 sensor sames as GH4 ? or inferior?

0 upvotes
igorek7
By igorek7 (2 months ago)

The Olympus OM-D EM-1 contains a Panasonic 34231 (MN34230 die markings) CMOS Image Sensor with on-chip phase detection pixel array http://chipworks.force.com/catalog/ProductDetails?sku=OLY-E-M1_Pri-Camera

1 upvote
bluevellet
By bluevellet (2 months ago)

It explains why on-sensor PDAF doesn't work so well on Sony cameras (so far anyway).

Previously, it was assumed the technology was from Sony and Olympus made it magically work better on their camera.

Comment edited 2 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
Whitefalcon
By Whitefalcon (2 months ago)

The in camera flash or flash add on has never been a viable solution. For that reason an external flash is recommended. Stronger flash and bounce flash are two good reasonsI am wondering if I will be able to use my Evolt 510 flash with this camera?

0 upvotes
Fri13
By Fri13 (1 month ago)

It has and always will be a viable solution, but not on every situation. Just like using a large flashgun is not always the best choice or a ringflash etc.

Like I use a lot the bundled flash because it fits to pocket and can be uses for portraits and macro very well by its nature.

People too often blame camera flash as terrible and advice it should never be used. But think about it. Olympus made a $1500 camera and then couldn't add a integrated flash because EVF so they bundled one small. Why? If it is so inferior, why to add? E-M1 is for professional use and why to add one when all pros has a flashgun? The fact is, do not tell what gear you can't use of you are a pro , because as creative photographer you are required to know all gear and what to use and when.
In so many situations you can't bounce flash or (red eyes). And you really don't need more than fill-flash so it doesn't need to be a huge. So often the required reason to use flashgun is because you just look pro.

0 upvotes
Whitefalcon
By Whitefalcon (2 months ago)

You can get 2 batteries and a charger on Amazon for $22.00 for this camera making the battery issue mute.
I bought some for mine. So that gives you 1000 photos you can shoot.

0 upvotes
SRHEdD
By SRHEdD (2 months ago)

It's "moot" okay?

5 upvotes
Whitefalcon
By Whitefalcon (2 months ago)

You can

2 upvotes
srados
By srados (3 months ago)

2-3 years ago I was trying Oly's(many of them) in a camera show, with not so challenging lighting situation.All Olympus cameras did struggle to focus...Pentax too.I do not know did this did improved lately. I know 3 years are like 1000 years in technology terms, passed.

Canon/Nikon did not had issues in focusing...My impression from Olympus that they struggle in that(focusing) department.

2 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Ancient history (but partly true)

0 upvotes
photogalleryonline
By photogalleryonline (2 months ago)

Funny I am selling my E-M5 OMD for just this issue, I don't know why everybody says it has great autofocusing, its crap in low light, hunts all the time back and forth in video low light, and i am talking sitting around the dinner table at a restaurant with full overhead lighting it hunts! A compact camera can do better. The Nikon D300s I have never has this problem. Does anybody own an OMD E-M1 is it any good at focusing in low light? I am wanting one for underwater photography, was going to buy a housing for the E-M5 but gave up on that idea because of this low light issue with autofocus

2 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

EM-5 slow to focus in low light?
NOT my experience

I got ten times as many keepers these evenings as The CaN IkSon bricks and bazooka brigade got (and a MUCH greater variety of shooting angles..

HERE:
http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts/Eurobeat-by-Supa/

...
and HERE:

http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts/Music/

Other galleries under
http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts/
.. shot mostly with the OMD-EM5

The thing focussed instantly and accurately almost all the time.
Often, I could not even see the subjects without the EFV.

The 5-axis IS also helped drive the keeper rate' up.
Sounds like "the low light issue" is user error...

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Party last night - took the OMD as instead of my SONY or Panny P&S cams ...

Nothing critical.
I set the TOUCH screen up to SHOOT when pressed, press on display at the subject's head, WHAM!
Even in quite dim light, it nailed focus instantly (like the EM-5 does)!

Much faster than fiddling with the focus point adjustment.
It trounced the CaNikon users there and they WERE surprised.

I must use this feature more ...
Low light AF issues are NOT present with this camera OR the OMD.

Of course like EVERY cam I've ever tried, if there's strong enough backlight to cause FLARE, or there simply isn't any detail, it will hunt. If that's an "issue", learn how to use a camera!

Comment edited 50 seconds after posting
1 upvote
jim stirling
By jim stirling (1 month ago)

The E-M5.E-M1 have excellent S-AF and as fast as any camera the weakness and it is a very real weakness comes when you need C-AF or tracking.Along with the poorer high ISO .I speak as a long term mFT user and I currently still have the E-M1 though it will probably be sold to make way for the GH4 as video is a major interest to me. The only way Nikon users were getting worse results { AF,DR,image quality, high ISO} was if they were using P&S. Despite all its wonders the E-M1 actually managed to have slightly worse high ISO than the E-P5 etc. The 5 axis IS or any for of IS , is only advantageous in low light if you are shooting static subjects as IS has zero value for moving subjects.

0 upvotes
laughingor
By laughingor (3 months ago)

now the Fuji X-T1 is out. I feel that it will top EM-1 for IQ, and yet cheaper by $100. what do you all guy comment?

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

EM-1 usability looks superior - fewer needs for menus.
Depends if you ever need to shoot fast and not everyone does.

0 upvotes
jim stirling
By jim stirling (1 month ago)

The X-T1 looks to be a super camera with clearly superior image quality to the E-M1 , pity the video sucks or I would ditch mFT completly.Though to be fair the E-M1 has pretty weak video compared to the Panasonics.

0 upvotes
white shadow
By white shadow (3 weeks ago)

For a mirrorless camera, Micro 4/3 still has a better selection of lenses and to me that is a deal breaker. The lenses are also smaller. The Fuji lenses are too big, almost equal in size to a DSLR.

Having tried the X-T1, I must say it is attractive in terms of looks but the EM1 is much more user friendly. It is also more responsive.

For image quality, the EM1 will give a crisper look with better colours. Good for landscape and general photography. The Fuji will give a better "green" if one prefer this bias. It has to do with the different sensor used.

Overall, I would prefer the EM1. Unfortunately, for the moment, the EM1 is more expensive but it has a true weather proof body with the 12-40mm f/2.8 lens. The Fuji is still trying to make its first weather proof camera.

Comment edited 6 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
wilkes888
By wilkes888 (3 months ago)

C-MOUNT LENSES

Question for EM-1 users: Has anyone tried using old C-Mount lenses? Also is there a list of 'lenses which work well' with the MFT mount cameras? I hear that some produce much better quality circles on the MFT sensor than others.

Note: I did try to search at the top of the page but it I didn't seem to bring up anything on the forums. Is there a dedicated forum search which I've missed?

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Lossless compression - saves space.

Lossless means like a ZIP file or FLAC ..

ALL of the original data is recovered when opening the file and it therefore we have PRECISELY the original data with no loss at all. It has to work that way.

http://www.olympusamerica.com/crm/oneoffpages/crm_raw.asp

1 upvote
Kiril Karaatanasov
By Kiril Karaatanasov (3 months ago)

...and what battery life did you get? Is 350 frames ok for M1 since ..it is not a high profile camera as another one which too does 350 frames on a battery charge, but is evidently higher class and so is judged differently?

1 upvote
bluevellet
By bluevellet (3 months ago)

ha ha Kiril youj crack me up.

DPR doesn't fall in love with your A7 and you lose it, flooding other comment sections and forums with your "findings."

DPR also didn't really report about the limited bracketing (common Sony oversight) in the A7, yet I don't see you reminding them of that.

2 upvotes
Kiril Karaatanasov
By Kiril Karaatanasov (3 months ago)

What is limited in the A7 bracketing?

1 upvote
bluevellet
By bluevellet (3 months ago)

You should pay closer attention to the NEX forum, it's common complaint. Not sure if there's an app that fixes all of this (don't think so), but I know those are striking oversights with the camera without apps:

Inability to set bracketing and steps separately.

inability to set timer with bracketing (only possible with remote and even that comes with its own limitations)

Inability not to hold the shutter button with multiple bracketing steps

1 upvote
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Batteries are compact, easily three in a pocket.

If you are bracketing it is easy to get 500+ shots on one charge. Presumably the VF to shutter ratio alters the effective consumption.
Aftermarket batteries on eBay are cheap and there are even ones called full "process" or something like that - it means the original charger can be used.

They are $9 and work perfectly.

In the dark that VF dusts glass finders!

My competition could not even SEE some of the things I shot. Without the EVF, in some cases, I could not see THE ACTION either ..

http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts/Footloose-Supa/i-FcghWZ6/A

OMDs are brilliant in the dark.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 7 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
jim stirling
By jim stirling (1 month ago)

EVFs are a major weakness in low light becoming both laggy and super noisy

0 upvotes
dcgoeb
By dcgoeb (1 month ago)

Just double up on the frame rate. drains battery quicker, but helps eliminate EVF lagginess. Besides as far as seeing what the result will (mostly) look like, just chimp a few shots and then the camera for the best possible settings and use the EVF for overall composition and pay attention to that histogram. It tells a story that most don't seem to understand.

0 upvotes
Kiril Karaatanasov
By Kiril Karaatanasov (3 months ago)

BTW where is the section on compressed RAW that Olypus are using and analysis of the effects of this compresison? or this is only for high profile cameras? and M1 is a.. ..not so high profile?

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Lossless compression saves space and like a ZIP file or FLAC file ALL the original is recovered when opening the file.

Lossless compression WORKS that way.

READ:
http://www.olympusamerica.com/crm/oneoffpages/crm_raw.asp

0 upvotes
Kiril Karaatanasov
By Kiril Karaatanasov (3 months ago)

DPR where is the "Camera hangs when multiple live view effects are turned on" Cons? Did you even try switching on the Art filters and peaking together?

ohh or you just love the camera and did not bother go that deep in the review process?

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Hasn't happened to me - ever.

I just retried it, latest firmware now, but I did not see this before, either.

0 upvotes
SLOOPB
By SLOOPB (3 months ago)

I find nothing on flash photography in here. It appears you can only use flash when using the EVF. Using live view mode darkens the results.

0 upvotes
coroander
By coroander (4 months ago)

.Just upgrading from the E-M5 after purchasing a couple of the 4/3 lenses off eBay before this camera was released. Opens up a whole new world of great lenses.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 2 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
Just Ed
By Just Ed (4 months ago)

There are a lot of small APS-C cameras out there. Even some compact lenses to go with them.

Personally, I would not buy into 4/3'rds at this point in time. jmo

2 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (4 months ago)

Granted, APS-C cameras can be smallish since the sensors are in the same size range. 4/3 is not that much smaller as the conversion to FF is 1.85 vs 1.6 for Canon and 1.55 for Nikon. BUT, with 4/3 you don't have to deal with that old, non standard, oblong, 3/2 format. Oddly enough, in the day when film medium format was cutting edge, there was always the argument of the merits of 6x9 over 6x7 as though the oblong format would somehow make a so so picture an award winning photograph. Personally, I will never again use 3/2 format, I despise it that much. If 4/3 goes the way of the Studabaker, I will use medium format digital or just use film large and medium format. JMO

2 upvotes
coroander
By coroander (4 months ago)

APS-C fails in the lens department. There's a lack of choice from every manufacturer. Kit lenses there are plenty, but nice primes and constant aperture zooms are lacking across all manufacturers. For Canon and Nikon you constantly have to resort to full frame glass, particularly at the wide end and you end up with strange focal lengths and larger than needed lenses. For NEX it's adapted lenses because of the lack of choice and now that Sony's gone full frame all those holes in the APS-C lens line are likely never to get filled. Fuji has nice lenses, but again not many. It's hard to see that APS-C has any future at all (except as the nichest of players), too big to be small, and not supported by a decent stable of lenses.

4 upvotes
Nuno Armando
By Nuno Armando (3 months ago)

Not true with Pentax. Pentax has a very extensive APS-C lens portfolio

3 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

And mostly BAZOOKA lenses ...
I carry and EM-1, 8 lenses, FL50 flash, filters, plenty batteries, PL-200 QR, and a few other bits in a LowePro 180 Nova AW bag.

There is NO apsc or FMF (Full Marketing Frame) camera that you could even remotely do that with.
I sometimes don't know the situation so I take ALL the glass with me. Sometimes an EM-5 too.

Both OMDs leave my RB-67 in the DUST.
It had an actual picture area of 56 x 69.5mm, or about - about 4.5 times the 35mm format

Both OMDs leave it in the dust for quality. When there's time, I'll dig out some 4x5 inch negs - about 14.2 TIMES as big as FMF.
I would comfortably expect the OMDs comfortably beating 4x5 IQ. With Zuiko pro or prime lenses I'd expect better sharpness and less grain "noise" - except maybe for unprocessed night shots.

A few samples:
http://photohounds.smugmug.com/6x7-early-80s/

... t b c

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

3:2 was made popular by good hardware, NOT by having usable ideal proportions!
... it was rarely useful without cropping. You had to "learn the proportions" and try to shoot according to its non intuitive nature.

The proportions were NOT chosen to make good pictures!
They came about by adding 2 movie frames together, and also explains WHY the 6x9 format had VERY few users.

The VAST majority of roll film users (pretty well the only film where you had any choice in negative proportions) prefered 6x4.5 (4:3) and 6x7 (about 5:4, actually) or Hasselblad's SQUARE format (and its nice portable cameras) -NOT- the 3:2 of 6x9 format.

I saw the boxes leave the store.

FEW film formats had such weird elongation, all used a more ART-like aspect.

Pity it wasn't a much better 25x35mm format. (1.4:1)

I'm starting an informal 4:3 lens sample gallery.

http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Gear-tests

I plan to do an EM-1 and EM-5 comparisons of near identical shots soon.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 1 minute after posting
0 upvotes
jazzybatra
By jazzybatra (4 months ago)

Hello, I have an OMD EM5 and 75mm 1.8 lens. Most of my shots aure either out of focus or slow to focus small kids. Is this fast in OMD EM1? Is there a firmware or setting I should look at to make the focussing faster and accurate?

1 upvote
Mister H
By Mister H (3 months ago)

If you're using the lens at wide aperture (such as f1.8) then it has a very narrow depth of field, so fast, relatively close to the camera children will always be a challenge. Tracking auto focus will help - it isn't brilliant on the E-M5 and is reported to be much better on the E-M1 due to its phase detection autofocus. I'm not guaranteeing it'll solve your problem though. If you post in the Micro Four-Thirds forums there are a lot of helpful people there who may be able to offer suggestions.

1 upvote
digifan
By digifan (3 months ago)

a 75 is like a 150 on 35mmFF totally the wrong lens for children up close. A 45mm is a much better choice here as it is 90mm equiv. but imo a 25mm (equiv to the nifty fifty) is the best choice.
The DOF of the 75 is so narrow it's like 8 cm on a three meter distance a challenge for any camera, a 45 the DOF is 25 cm.
I guess you're a beginner that bought into an advanced system.
Learn to use it first before spending too much money on lenses that are not suitable for the job!

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

It's a great lens for kids. Make sure both Lens and camera are at latest firmware levels and narrow the focussing spots. Also yurm eye focus on.

Here .. shot with lowered sharpness/contrast, NO additional lighting.no problem.

http://photohounds.smugmug.com/People/Kids/

Try to have the child move across the frame, as few longish lenses can cope with a child at close chil running towards the camera.

Gives the parents a hard time too :P

0 upvotes
Timmbits
By Timmbits (4 months ago)

I can't help but wonder if the MFT consortium (Panasonic, Olympus) will be offering a larger sensor at these prices! (aps or larger)

1 upvote
Timmbits
By Timmbits (4 months ago)

ie: put all that extra space and money to work!

1 upvote
Rocky ID Olympian
By Rocky ID Olympian (3 months ago)

No they won't. Its at this price because of many other features. I also don't want any camera at this price that only has large sensors but without the features that E-M1 has.

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

By that 'reasoning', an F-150 is a "better car" than a BMW ... must be .. more materials.

Comment edited 35 seconds after posting
1 upvote
0E2F21A46E13411B9C93C0F0A25CB661

Andy, thank you for all your info and help. On the Olympus OM-D E-M1 can the camera generate immediately after shooting a playback of the image you just took without pressing any buttons (like Nikon)?

Thank you for your help!

0 upvotes
Andy Westlake
By Andy Westlake (4 months ago)

Yes, it can. It's configured in the Setup Menu (spanner icon), 'Rev View' - you can select how long the just-shot image will display from 0.3sec to 30sec.

0 upvotes
R Johns
By R Johns (4 months ago)

Nice...

Olympus in finally making some really excellent M4/3 cameras and glass. I'm almost in, but will wait to see if they will ever get around to adding a "Fully" articulating LCD on their cameras. It's almost as if they think having a limited articulating LCD is somehow a niche'. LOL...Weird...Hopefully, they'll get with the program.

I am really loving what I'm seeing, otherwise... :0)

0 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (4 months ago)

I originally thought the tilt screen was a step backwards compared to the fully articulated screen of my E-620. However, on second thoughts, I feel the tilt screen makes more sense on a touch screen.since it provides a more stable platform when pressing buttons.

1 upvote
McFern
By McFern (4 months ago)

You know, the articulating LCD on the 620 was one of those "cool" features like the 'back lit buttons' that I thought would be really handy until day to day practice kinda proved differently. After moving the LCD around for a while first out of the box and saying "cool" a couple times, it rarely moves. I heavily rely on the veiwfinder, so typically, Im not going to-have time/feel like-moving it out and around. I know other's mileage may vary, but Im not sure that a non articulated LCD is a step back like an LCD that you cant see in daylight would be.

0 upvotes
R Johns
By R Johns (4 months ago)

I think it's great we are living in a time where all of the camera manufactures are stepping up and producing some really fine products to choose from. Especially when the weakest links are basically subjective ones.

When I use my cameras on a tripod, the fully articulating LCD really shines, for me. When I'm handholding a camera, I prefer to have the LCD closed, which is actually another good reason I prefer a fully articulating LCD.

Still, the newer Olympus cameras are impressive... :0)

Comment edited 37 seconds after posting
1 upvote
vaskelovo
By vaskelovo (3 months ago)

As far as street shooting is concerned, tilting screen is preferable: it is much quicker to deploy. As far as self-shooting, E-PL5 has tilting screen which flips ~180 degrees up. Of course E-PL5 doesn't have a built-in viewfinder hump.

0 upvotes
soundsculpture
By soundsculpture (4 months ago)

The OMD-E-M! is a great camera except for one big problem. I want to shoot HD video with it and send the HDMI output to an external video recorder. like a Sound Devices Pix. This camera will not output a video signal through HDMI while shooting, only in playback mode. For me this is a serious flaw on an otherwise great camera.

1 upvote
WhyNot
By WhyNot (4 months ago)

Panasonic, I believe, introduced something called pinpoint auto focus with the GX1 or G5. Does the E-M1 have a similar auto focus setting? Is this what is refereed to as Single in the Specs? If either of these is true does it work the same way with Olympus as with Panasonic?

0 upvotes
Nukunukoo
By Nukunukoo (4 months ago)

Has a nice weight/handling combo and feels comfy on my hands. Design reminds me of the Japanese Gundam... but I'm leaning towards the GX-7 at the moment.

0 upvotes
laughingor
By laughingor (4 months ago)

I am struggling to choose from these two systems. May I know what is the factor you think GX 7 is over em-1 in your thoughts. Lol, just for my reference. Thx

0 upvotes
memo90061
By memo90061 (4 months ago)

The links to download the original videos haven't fixed yet. :/

0 upvotes
KKramer
By KKramer (4 months ago)

This Oly, or its successor, will be in camera stable one day.

0 upvotes
photo perzon
By photo perzon (4 months ago)

No built in flash. Even the silly add on does not bounce. So you have to be that guy...the guy that blinds everybody with no bounce. The flip LCD does not allow for self biographical.

1 upvote
TJer
By TJer (4 months ago)

I've discovered that using something like a "softbox flash diffuser" add on to the flash produces the same effect; I rubber band a kleenex to the flash and achieve the same result and costs less. 

1 upvote
concert photographer
By concert photographer (4 months ago)

Hi, when I have made a picture with the M1, I always have to wait quite a long time to take the next. I use new very fast writing chips (90MBS/sec), but have to wait 2 sec until te camera is ready for the next picture.
Why? the last OMD was quicker.
second question: when I use an adapted telephoto lens (nikon IF-ED 4,5/300 or Leica Telyt 6,8/400) and use the magnification for focusing accuracy, I can't stabilize the viewfinder image, perhps I overlooked the user's manual? Is it possible to activate the IBIS with adapted lenses with minimum fuss? The viewfinder is not really usable without a stabilization because the image is much too unsteady.
With panasonic one have only to half-press the button of the shutter and the viewfinder is stable.
Marc

2 upvotes
GasGas
By GasGas (4 months ago)

I have a EM5. Try turn off the "Reduce the noise" option. This will solve your issue.

1 upvote
Rocky ID Olympian
By Rocky ID Olympian (3 months ago)

Number one, make sure you turn off the "rec view". Also Noise reduction should be off.

As fore the IS, you go to SCP, select IS, press OK, then press info. Adjust the focal length to the closest focal length of the lens you are using.

0 upvotes
sunberries
By sunberries (4 months ago)

Just had this yesterday with the 12-40 2.8 Still trying out everything but only one thing has really been bothering me, the EVF is so sensitive that it keeps activating and thereby shutting down the screen. This even happens when viewing the pictures in Play mode, a slight pass of anything (shadow, finger, hand) over the EVF turns the screen off and goes to shooting mode. I measured the distance from which the EVF activates and it is 41mm (1.6 inches) from the rubber cup. Anybody got a fix to this?

0 upvotes
dgnelson
By dgnelson (4 months ago)

Just turn the auto-switch feature off, it's a nuisance. It's just as easy to go from viewfinder to LCD with a button push.

2 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Or keep your fingers away from the eyepiece - it is seeing them and 'thinks' you've lifted the cam to your face!

I cured myself after half a dozen times. No problem now.

0 upvotes
Robert Evagelista
By Robert Evagelista (4 months ago)

I had 6 Digital Cameras since 2001. And this Camera makes me Emotional.
This is the best one I have used. The one that keeps me excited everyday.
Fastest in everything, Sharpest, Cleanest, Great color, Very versatile, Complete bang for the buck. Amazing lens selection at the most reasonable price. Bleeding edge Software and functions. It makes me drop down in tears. I cant believe I was able to save up and get the pre-order and find out that it will go way above my expectation. Thank you olympus, this year was very tough for me, but you are a source of my inspiration... Looking forward to weekend adventures with you.!

6 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (4 months ago)

Hi Robert,

I looked up some of your shots on 500px.com . Congratulations! Some really nice pictures there, and not only when using the E-M1. You are very talented. Keep up the great work and enjoy life!

1 upvote
Gofindjp
By Gofindjp (4 months ago)

Yep, I totally agree. I've owned many cameras, film and digital, but nothing comes close to my O-MD E-M1. Not since a stint with an OM2 Spot Program back in the '80s, have I had so much fun with, and been so impressed by a camera. So glad I offloaded my Nikon D600 and it's bulky everything. That was a nice camera too, but there are too many benefits of this system, like great little lenses, everything's more affordable, way lighter kit, more intuitive GUI, touch screen focus/shoot. I could go on...

3 upvotes
The AmsterdamWhale
By The AmsterdamWhale (4 months ago)

Aw, hell..... now I'm misty-eyed. Really, without sarcasm....I'm not that cold-sunnovah out here trolling and tracking; hunting whatever shreds of civil discourse may still be found online, between the lines, so as to crush it and watch it die.. Nor did I ever think a comment might braid itself into a strand of human truth complete with visual, photographic storytelling.... So cool. Now that's inspiring - thanks fellas!

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
1 upvote
Ty Slothrop
By Ty Slothrop (4 months ago)

Oly mentions uploading to a PC in their specs for the EM-1. Is there anything in the firmware/hardware/flatware that precludes interfacing with a Mac, or requires something that I'm overlooking? (It shouldn't matter but for complete disclosure I'm using Aperture for PP.)
2. I'm not clear if a tethered off-camera flash is fully auto TTL?
3. Is it necessary that the cable be a dedicated Oly product to an Oly flash unit?
If my questions reflect some confusion and don't make sense please feel free to reframe them as needed.
Many thanks, Ty

0 upvotes
Richard Earney
By Richard Earney (4 months ago)

There is an Olympus app for the Mac - you connect the camera via the provided cable and check for and install firmware updates via the app. All works fine!

1 upvote
Rocky ID Olympian
By Rocky ID Olympian (3 months ago)

Yes, off camera flash is fully auto TTL.

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

AND off-camera flash can also be wireless :) No tether needed.

0 upvotes
seri_art
By seri_art (5 months ago)

It's the same size as my XSi and 10% heavier. What did it do with the should-have size advantage of the 4/3 sensor and lack of a mirror?

0 upvotes
alendrake
By alendrake (5 months ago)

It has smaller volume. So when diving you have more chances to be unnoticed by the fish.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 1 minute after posting
0 upvotes
Dr Aref
By Dr Aref (5 months ago)

XSi is a consumer grade SLR without
1. Magnesium alloy body
2. Tilting & much higher resolution screen
3. Weather proofing
4. High speed burst till 9 frames/sec
5. Continuous focusing in full HD movies (XSi can take movie)
6. Much smaller form factor when coupled with MFT pancake lenses like Lumix 20mm F1.7. There more................
I really wonder why you wanted to compare XSi with EM-1.

Comment edited 29 seconds after posting
3 upvotes
yabokkie
By yabokkie (4 months ago)

the operation is better for E-M1 and I hope Canon and Nikon entry-level SLRs could catch up.

Comment edited 31 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
Rocky ID Olympian
By Rocky ID Olympian (3 months ago)

Umh... comparing with XSi, you should compare it with E-PM2, which I think would be the same class and market. Not to E-M1. Too many features that XSi dont have.

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

What do you "need" a mirror for?
Shake the camera more? Adjust make-up?

The brilliant EVF, dusts any OVF for dim light work - period.

OMD's shine in dim light. To Wit: http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts

1 upvote
alendrake
By alendrake (5 months ago)

A question to DPReview team:

I was comparing the lowlight and daylight charts of Olympus E-M1 and Panasonic G6 and I noticed that G6 output is much softer in daylight test than in lowlight. Unfortunately I can't attach screenshots in the comment, but you will easily notice this issue, for example at ISO 200 when comparing the resolution test circles with radial lines. Most probably there was some difference in G6 settings in daylight and lowlight tests. I just wonder what could be the cause of that? Thanks

0 upvotes
yabokkie
By yabokkie (4 months ago)

> much softer in daylight test than in lowlight.

it's the noise that makes images look "sharper"
why people prefer D800E over D800.

ISO really means readout and process than exposure and even for exposure/metering ISO doesn't tell it right when you go to check a small portion of the image.

Comment edited 4 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
Michael Jardine
By Michael Jardine (5 months ago)

Just be aware that you cannot stream photos onto your smartphone while you are shooting (great for live blogging and tweeting of events); the software only works when it's controlling the camera.

0 upvotes
PGen
By PGen (5 months ago)

Can I have some advice/feedback on the quality/usefulness of electronic viewfinders? My reference is the optical viewfinder in a pre-digital SLR, which I liked very much.

0 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

You might want to read this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_viewfinder

as well as read this thread:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52591454

My personal experience with electronic viewfinders is with older cameras (Olympus E-100RS and Minolta Dimage 7i). They were pretty bad. Although they did not prevent me from shooting good pictures, I much prefer the optical viewfinder of my E-510 and E-620 which are currently in my camera bag. Cameras with 24x36 sensors (aka Full Frame) and even APS-C sensors have bigger and brighter viewfinders than OVF in 4/3 models but these cameras are generally too large and heavy to suit my needs. Other prefer them. To each his own.

As much as I like my current cameras with OVF, my next camera will likely use an EVF.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 2 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
samfan
By samfan (5 months ago)

IMHO, the best EVFs are about equal to the worst (mirror) SLR finders.

Advantages - they can be larger, they provide lots of detail, you can see white balance, exposure directly and picture styles in the finder (more or less) and usually provide a more visible image in the dark.

Disadvantages: overall they just look like TVs: contrasty, with lover resolution and unreal colors. They're shiny/bright, which can be distracting when shooting in the dark. You can often see the noise. Sometimes the color balance is quite off. Often not fast enough for action photography (though not really an issue these days i think). You also have to keep them on all the time in order to shoot together with the imaging sensor, i.e. battery drain and potential heat issues.

So compared to low-end DSLRs, the best EVFs are about equal.. Compared to pentaprism OVFs in better DSLRs, EVFs are still pretty crap though they have some advantages in some situations.

0 upvotes
yabokkie
By yabokkie (4 months ago)

EVFs are not so good but usable, especically if the user is willing to accept it.

the most unpleasant may be the color balance, and may be that's why many people close their left eye when peeping into an EVF.

0 upvotes
Rocky ID Olympian
By Rocky ID Olympian (3 months ago)

The advantage in DSLR compared to film in my opinion, is the ability to see the result instantly AFTER we shoot. Well, using EVF the most useful benefit is, we can preview the result BEFORE we shoot. So, the most important benefits for photographers would be: More precise shooting. We set the WB right, exposure right, etc from the very beginning. Shoot more, less chimping.

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Even the EVF in the EM-5 which I still have is quite usable.

One had to "learn" that the VF dims when testing DOF with a preview.
No more.

One had to "learn' to guess focus in really dim light or accept some camera guess.
No more.

The EM-5 (and especially the EM-1) finder gives you pretty well the look of the file it will create (with the current settings!) and they are good files indeed.
.
The EM1- has no noticeable graininess is and very sharp indeed (when actually using the camera to TAKE PICTURES, that is) . It gives nothing important away to OVFs and in fast action you turn the image preview off and it's pretty smooth and fast too. OVF had a slight edge there.

The EVFs absolutely leaves OVFs in the Dust when you are shooting scenes like this ..

http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts

.. cont

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

.... cont

And in bright light? Well let's go straight to the brightest light in the soar system ..
http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Nature/Gazing/i-vqv5hmh/A

You'd even CONSIDER looking through an OVF at this?

Real use is far more relevant (to me) than some technical discussion that hinges on nostalgia and on how well pentaprisms are ground and silvered.

If EVFs were available in 1936 do you really think the Germans would have bothered grinding a lump of glass?
Not likely ...

0 upvotes
snowshooter
By snowshooter (5 months ago)

I just starting shooting today with the E-M1 in Tignes France. It was about -15C and the camera was in the air all day. Shooting World Class skiers in burst mode and it never missed a beat. Shot with the 75-300mm f/4.8-6.7 II. Great results. Did not use all of one battery all day.

2 upvotes
Ricey
By Ricey (5 months ago)

Pentax seems more robust, OMD1 too flimsy...
And 43 sensor is a step down from APSC in terms of noise and artificial

1 upvote
Ricey
By Ricey (5 months ago)

Am planning a trip to Antarctica, taking wildlife photos of penguins, seals, whales etc on ship and land. Also decent landscape photos of icebergs. Need something weathersealed, freeze resistant. My research so far points to OMD E-M1 or Pentax K5 II for my budget. Would appreciate advise from any of you semi-pros to help my choice. TIA

0 upvotes
DanCos12
By DanCos12 (5 months ago)

I am going in Antarctica on January 2014. I just changed my E30 for an EM1. Works beautiful with my ft lenses. Go for it!

0 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

You might want to check with the guy who posted this message in Olympus SLR Talk:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52577213

He appears to have some experience using the E-M1 in cold weather.

0 upvotes
Ricey
By Ricey (5 months ago)

@DanCos12
Packing any mft lenses? Any recommendations for WR Ft glass?

1 upvote
beachmama
By beachmama (4 months ago)

Have you checked out the Pentax K-3? Looks like a perfect camera for the Arctic . . .

0 upvotes
Fiacre
By Fiacre (5 months ago)

Sadly, even with dark frame substitution by the camera, try to get back some information from the shadow (RAW or jpg) with a long exposure at same temperature from E-M5 and E-M1 (there are plenty of samples on the web...). You will see the noise problem with the E-M1 (or "poor performance", as you want). THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE EVEN WITH DARK FRAME SUBSTITUTION. Silly story for a 1400 euros camera.
As i do a lot of long exposures, i will avoid this camera until the problem is solved. But i'm afraid it won't be only a software issue fixed by firmware, as it looks like a termal problem with the sensor, it could by heated by an electronic board (or PDAF sensors ?). That would explain why an older camera with nearly the same sensor can perform better for long exposure. My message is not to attack Oly, as i'm a king of Oly fanboy but just to say it is a real problem and Oly must work on it !

1 upvote
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

Dark Frame Substraction is not intended to control noise in shadow areas of your pictures. It will remove hot pixels that appear in your images during long exposures or when your camera warms up. That's why "Noise Reduction" is best left on "Auto".

To control noise in shadow areas, you apply the Noise Filter (next item in your menus after Noise Reduction). You should choose a level that you feel is appropriate for your type of photography. That's why there are different settings for this. Experiment.

You have picked one of the best cameras on the market. Mastering it requires more effort than using a point&shoot. Just like shifting gears on a Ferrari requires more skill than doing so on a Toyota.

Enjoy your new camera!

3 upvotes
Atholl
By Atholl (5 months ago)

Perhaps an update of the Fuji X Pro1 is required as the firmware updates have totally transformed this camera (of course you have to know how to use it)
Once mastered it is fab!

1 upvote
shfaya
By shfaya (5 months ago)

HI
I am testing this photo camera at the moment and every thing fine but....
The long exposures as mentioned above are really disaster. There is so much noise in dark parts of the photo that 100% of photos I made last evening and night are to be put in a rubbish can. The noise in blacks gets up to 50% of total pixels. I don't understand why actually there is possibility to shoot for up to 60 seconds if this camera with 20 seconds can't cope.
Dpreview should review this information and put some test shots. I would save hundreds of euro if anyone would test it first.
Unfortunately I am selling the images in galleries and big part of my collection are evening and night photos, so clearly I did loose going to Olympus.
Search again if you are going to change your camera.

www.otravistagallery.com

0 upvotes
xlsmile
By xlsmile (5 months ago)

Hello, shfaya!

Unfortunately, this is a big issue with many, if not all, E-M1s units. They do perform much worse than, say, E-M5 in low light situations when NR is turned OFF. Even 1 second exposures might be total crap without NR ON.

Me and other M43 fellows have raised this question with Olympus multiple times. However, Olympus refuses to give any definitive answer.

So, my advice to you is to either return your camera back as faulty, or, if you still want to keep it - set your Noise Reduction to Auto. It will help you with night shots by applying dark-frame subtraction to every shot you take. Note, though, that every shot you are going to make will take double time of your exposure.

E-M1 doesn't deserve even Silver award!

1 upvote
Interestingness
By Interestingness (5 months ago)

Are the images normal/low noise once the dark frame substatction is done? If so, thats OK. On my Panasonic GF and GX1's thats how it works and the imges are fine. It's a minor niusance to wait for the dark frame but not the end of the world.

On the fence about getting this cam, the GX7 for its size or replacing my 50d with the new kid on the block.

0 upvotes
MrAndyC
By MrAndyC (5 months ago)

People are lauding the customization of this camera and I’m certainly intrigued by the dual controls dials. What I’d like to know is if it offers functionality equivalent to the TAv mode of Pentax/ Ricoh.

So can you use one dial for the aperture, the other for shutter speed, while the ISO is automatically adjusted for correct exposure? The Rioch GR is the only camera I know where you can do that with thumb and middle finger (index on shutter). It’s hugely liberating.

1 upvote
xlsmile
By xlsmile (5 months ago)

Yes, MrAndyC, totally!

You can customize your dials the way you want. E-M1 is extremely flexible! So, you can set a rear dial to control aperture, front one to control shutter speed (or vice versa), and set your ISO to auto.

Be aware, though, before buying E-M1, of the noise issue this camera has when it takes shots in low-light situations without dark-frame subtraction (aka Noise Reduction ON).

0 upvotes
xlsmile
By xlsmile (5 months ago)

Hello E-M1 lovers and haters!

I am wondering if anyone has raised a question about E-M1's sensor performance in poor lighting conditions and long exposures. There seems to ba a major problem with E-M1. These are the links I found so far (including my own thread on Flickr) reporting the issue (with images to scratch your head about):

http://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=53621
http://www.flickr.com/groups/om-d_user/discuss/72157637548153684/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cablefreak/sets/72157637612923853/

Has anyone had similar issues with E-M1's sensor performance?

Thank you!

1 upvote
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

I have no personal experience with the E-M1, still saving up to buy one, but Noise Reduction (aka Dark Frame Substraction) should normally be left on Auto with any digital camera. The number of hot pixels showing up during long exposures will vary from camera to camera and will also change depending if your camera's internal parts are cold, warm or hot.

As far as residual noise is concerned, there will always be some noise filtering applied in any camera, even in the Off position. Noise filtering is a necessary evil and it is done at the expense of image precision and detail. For that reason, it is very possible that Olympus have chosen to use a less agressive noise filtering algorithm on the E-M1 than on the E-M5 to preserve more detail in the final picture. This may be based on the idea that pros should know how to get rid of objectionable noise in post processing. Therefore, I don't see this as a sensor fault, just a logical engineering decision. You may prefer the E-M5 settings.

1 upvote
xlsmile
By xlsmile (5 months ago)

Thanks for you comment, adomarc!

I generally agree with what you've said.

However, based on my research I've done for the last 3 days I can prove that my E-M1 unit is faulty.

1. When E-M1 is compared to E-M5 (GH3 and GX1) with NR turned OFF, it definitely shows unacceptable level of noise, thus not "preserving more detail in the final picture", but ruining it! Look at this sample, please (its only 800 ISO): http://www.flickr.com/photos/xlsmile/10834554343/sizes/o/

2. There is no Dark-frame subtraction applied in E-M5 by default (as some suggested), because otherwise, all long exposure shots would take twice as much to process, but no-one reported a time doubling with E-M5. Therefore, the E-M5 to E-M1 comparison seems to be correct, and E-M5 wins. Look at the samples on http://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=53621

3. No-one from Olympus has reassured me (despite my multiple appeals) that E-M1 was designed this "particular" way, and that it has been a logical engineering decision.

0 upvotes
Alejandro del Pielago
By Alejandro del Pielago (5 months ago)

Hi, audiomarc, very interesting considerations... And, yes, EM-5 still is a very sexy camera...

0 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

If you believe your unit is faulty, you should send it in for repair.

0 upvotes
xlsmile
By xlsmile (5 months ago)

That's exactly what I am trying to find out about - is my unit faulty, along with other ones in October-November shipments, or it's a common issue with all E-M1s?

If it's the way the E-M1 has been engineered to implement a new Dual-Fast AF sensor with AA filter removed, there is no point repairing or replacing my unit. I will just get a full refund for it and pick, say, E-M5.

Unfortunately, Olympus doesn't reply to my queries about the E-M1 sensor performance that is way worse than E-M5's one.

0 upvotes
Mr Haber
By Mr Haber (4 months ago)

If considering only the image quality, without other "innovations" then, from what I've seen in flickr, E-M5 is the best choice.

0 upvotes
Michael Jardine
By Michael Jardine (5 months ago)

Beautiful camera. As the review says, it's a 'Pro' camera that's half the size of a pro camera. It truly does everything my D800 does, plus a lot more. For example, live view (and review) in the EVF. The form factor is perfect, for a camera that does as much as it does. If anything, it even feels a tad 'small' in my hand (and I stepped up from E-PL5).

With the 12-40 2.8 lens, any good photographer can get any shot, and it will be crisp. That said, the 75 1.8 seems totally made for this camera.

P.S. All the JPG stuff is wasted on me as I only shoot RAW, but hey that's legacy stuff anyhow and it's nice that Oly included it. I look forward to trying it out over the next few weeks.

Meantime, here are a few on my tumblr site http://qamera.tumblr.com

2 upvotes
faberryman
By faberryman (5 months ago)

I wish Olympus would make an OM-DF, which would be the size of the OM-D M1 with a full frame 24/36MP sensor, that would take the older OM-1 lenses. If Sony can do it with its A7/A7R, surely Olympus can too.

http://www.ultrahighendreview.com/uploads/images/miscellaneous/olympusomdm1_sonya7r.jpg

Comment edited 49 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

They certainly have the knowhow to do so. But, in the end, it boils down to how much people would be willing to pay for such a niche product and how many they would sell at that price.

0 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (5 months ago)

And it would be a niche product at an incredible price that would be approx. twice the current cost. Money is money, but the issue is that the photos produced would not be improved by twice. FF is still a small amateur format and the differences between FF, APS-C, and 4/3 is not great enough to see unless compared at large enlargements side by side. Thats why comparisons at sites such as this must be given at 100% crops to see a difference. So, is the increase in cost worth the increase in out come? Not to mention that the FF format that follows the idiotic 35mm frame size, requires that you crop off 20% of those precious extra pixels that were just purchased in order to make any standard size print. No one ever stood at a photo exibit and said, "That would have been a better photo if it had been taken with Cannon FF camera". A friend once paid $750 for a Honda push mower. I asked why he didnt buy a $100 mower. He said that it would last longer. 7 times longer? Just sayin.

1 upvote
faberryman
By faberryman (5 months ago)

Niche product at an incredible price? The16MP m43 sensor OM-D M1 body is $1399. The Sony 24MP FF sensor A7 body is $1699. It need not only accept older OM-1 lenses. Surely Olympus, like Sony, could design a nice line of compact autofocus lenses.

Comment edited 2 times, last edit 11 minutes after posting
0 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (5 months ago)

Correct on the price, incorrect on the comparison. The 7R will most closely compare with the features of the E-M1and it is nearly twice as expensive. Of course Oly can develop lenses, that is why Sony has collaborated with Oly to produce lenses…after all, its the lenses that makes Oly hang on. And if they fall, they will live on in Sony lenses. Sony has the money might to undersell anyone's cameras, their weakness is lenses. But again, not everyone wants a FF camera. Galen Rowell could have used Rollie or Linhof which all the photo enthusiasts of the day would argue to the end was better that 35mm, but Galen chose to use Nikon F. He could have used any of those or a K1000 and his photos would have been just as spectacular. Also, he would have made just as good a living. I have learned to use the characteristics of 4/3 (advantages and disadvantages) to my advantage and have no need or desire for FF. Others will find it too small for a FF camera, others that it isn't a proper Canikon.

1 upvote
faberryman
By faberryman (5 months ago)

If you have no need or desire for a FF, then you wouldn't be interested in the camera I described. On the other hand, I can't imagine any Olympus owner, past or present, who wouldn't be interested in a OM-D M1 with a 24MP full frame sensor for a $300 premium. I'll be interested in Olympus announcements coming up in January/February 2104.

0 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (5 months ago)

2104…wow thats a long wait! Just kidding don't get mad. The question at hand is whether its a niche camera and the observation that FF is not better enough to warrant the increase in cost. Again, the A7 is not comparable to the E-M1 the A7R is and that premium is $1000. Everyone does not want FF, some photographers still use film (GASP) and not every 4/3 user wants FF. In my short life, I have owned and sold Graflex 4x5, Rollieflex, Mamiya C, Mamiya RB, Pentax 645n, Fuji 645, and Pentax, Minolta and Cannon 35s. I started digital with Nikon, tried Oly and here I am, mostly because of the 50mm f2. Point is, many photographers are no longer hopping about trying to find the perfect camera that does not exist. And, the E-M1 and E-M5 are already niche cameras, who will buy that niche camera at $1000 premium. Canikon will sell lotsa cameras, Sony will sell lots cause many folks remember the brand from their Walkman when they were a kid, but Oly will never sell lotsa cameras, FF or otherwise.

0 upvotes
faberryman
By faberryman (5 months ago)

I've shot 4x5, 6x6, and 35mm too. Just prefer 35mm to 110, particularly at the price. I'd much rather have an FF from Olympus than Sony. Three months is not a long wait.

Comment edited 1 minute after posting
0 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (5 months ago)

Check back and you will see that you said 2104 not 2014, hence the joke. That would be a 90 year wait! 110 vs 35mm was a valid argument in 1980 with film what it was then, but, again, not comparable to 4/3 vs FF in 2014. Your point that 'just because Im not interested in FF doesn't mean no one is' is absolutely right! My point is that just because you want a FF Oly doesn't mean every one wants a FF Oly and that is equally right! This goes back to whether a FF Oly would be a niche camera as Audiomarc stated in his post and that I agreed with. The E-M1 is already a niche camera and FF will not make it less so no matter how much one wishes it to. In the mean time, I will buy whatever I have to so I can use my 50mm f2 as long as I can. Incidentally, the next Oly in this series will most likely be a lower end offering for the folks who don't need stuff like weather sealing.

0 upvotes
audiomarc
By audiomarc (5 months ago)

IMHO, you'll never see a 24x36 digital body from Olympus. This company is not into building marginally better "me too" products. Their strategy is to offer original solutions to open-minded people.

Comparing 4/3 to 110 film format is simply not fair. Pick up a used E-5xx or E-6xx with just a kit lens to start and be prepared to fall in love. 4/3 is that good.

0 upvotes
McFern
By McFern (5 months ago)

Agreed. Why would Oly try to battle Canikon for a segment that they can not compete and is not positioned loose more capital.

True on the comparison. 4/3 vs FF is like comparing 645 and 6x7 as far as the visible differences are concerned. The camera companies have squashed all the megapixels into a given format that they can so the next reason for buying a new camera every 2 years is to convince everyone they need a bigger sensor. As more megapixels is not the answer to poor photography, so it is that a bigger sensor is not either. Wisdom from my own camera hopping in the 70's and 80's.

And yes, 4/3 is that good…far better than folks who don't know would give it credit.

0 upvotes
naththo
By naththo (4 months ago)

Problem is Olympus has long been with 4/3 size sensor. If they change it may cause chaos problem to the current 4/3 lens line up that may not work well with full frame sensor. It is not such good idea to take a risk to go for FF. Just stick to 4/3 for now and many people can easily buy any 4/3 lens what they want. If Olympus want to head to FF sensor, it'll take years for Olympus to make FF lens for Digital mirrorless camera, (especially for digital sensor).

0 upvotes
photohounds
By photohounds (2 months ago)

Full Marketing Frame (fmf)
What for, bragging?
http://photohounds.smugmug.com/Performing-arts/Eurobeat-by-Supa/

0 upvotes
mrbonsai
By mrbonsai (5 months ago)

Can anyone tell me what the shutter lag is for the M-1 is?
I have been searching but can't find this information.
Thanks in advance.

0 upvotes
Michael Jardine
By Michael Jardine (5 months ago)

I'd say it is instantaneous. And the focus is just as fast as my D800.

1 upvote
Pete_CSCS
By Pete_CSCS (5 months ago)

An Olympus sales rep calculated that the lag time is equivalent to the time it takes light to travel 33 inches! He told me the actual lag time in fractions of a second but I don't remember the number - sorry. The 33 inches did stick in my head however. :-)

0 upvotes
Scott Birch
By Scott Birch (5 months ago)

33 inches? That's about 2 nanoseconds. Really?

Comment edited 36 seconds after posting
0 upvotes
GeorgeD200
By GeorgeD200 (5 months ago)

He's no rocket scientist. That's why he sells cameras! 33 inches my a$&! LOL.

0 upvotes
sunOrbiter
By sunOrbiter (5 months ago)

I am comparing M-1 with M-5 in Studio Comparison. At least in the normal light mode M-5 images seem to be more appealing in terms of contrast. At low light the difference is minimal.

0 upvotes
Alejandro del Pielago
By Alejandro del Pielago (5 months ago)

Searching in the web, I find the same results; but, maybe is there a small halo in the EM-1? I think the "baking" in camera in the EM 1 applies a slight "unsharp mask"...

0 upvotes
Total comments: 2127
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