kimchiflower: Photography is Nikon's only business (as far as I'm aware, and unlike Canon), yet they didn't win anything, not even a runner-up.
They also make sophisticated (IC waffer UV photolithography) steppers, probably nice enough to be at least the runner-up (amid ASML, Ultratech, Canon, Intel and no one else).
Vinc T: How can I view the results without voting? I am not familiar with the cameras here and I will not vote.
Your honesty is laudable, you want to see the score but don't want to skew the poll with a vote you humbly believe is not qualified.So I suggest you pick one at random (6 candidates beg a dice) and vote; I can tell you that, since 1000+ votes are already tallied at his moment, a single vote will hardly bias the results.
yabokkie: hope we'll have 240p & 300p consumer video within a decade.
Well, dear yabokkie, if as you say mick232 is NOT confused, then you are living in the '90s indeed. But I see this exchange going on almost in real time, which in turn implies... Geez man I knew there must've been a reason today I woke up listening to Nirvana and L7! Help, where's my Sonic Youth laser disc...?
But then, a13, he'd have written "this FPS,that i/p". Anyway, with the current time lag, he'll surely clarify it in less than 20 years from now.
Kubicide: Nikon has every right to do this - so why the hate? Does everyone think the aftermarket folks really care about your camera or compatability, or bringing you some sort of "fair value"? No, they want your $$$. And as a manufacturer Nikon should do what they need to do to protect their product and support expenses.
No one knows for sure just how compatible or incompatible the aftermarket product is except for the engineers at Nikon and the other companies. This battery issue is just like the reverse engineered lenses. It's the old "buyer beware" thing. If you are out to save a buck then do it 'eyes wide open' and know that the aftermarket product may not work and the vendor just wants your money for their product. That's it. Nikon doesn't make any claim to state that their product is designed to work with anything coming out of any 'brand x' manufacturer.
Of course they have every right to do that AND their customer has every right to be informed about that BEFORE installing the new FW as well.The latter was neglected, hence the "hate". (Have you ever been stabbed on the back by someone who supposedly had "every right" to do it?)
ScottnLaguna: Smart business practice. No more cheap Chinese batteries causing warranty issues. Fine with me.
If "Chinese batteries" are to blame, where are 99.99% of the OEM batteries from?Surely from the North Pole, manufactured by elves and brought to you courtesy of flying reindeer...
(unknown member): Why on earth does it capture sound on the video when underwater?! That is just annoying.
And you should have heard Beatles' Octopus's Garden!
brecklundin: these sort of things are crutches for newbies and those who don't care to learn the craft of product shooting. You can do far better work with a couple inexpensive off camera flashes and some inexpensive foamcore board or just white craft paper.
These things are FINE if you want a sloppy shot for ebay I suppose (I honestly never noticed an increase in selling price with good photo's on ebay items. In fact I often suspected the opposite...people are fickle and thing Facebook quality photos are "good" photography.) And it's not bad for the price. However for a bit more cash and a few hours practice you can achieve far superior results even if using used flash units bought that a thrift shop (I have a number of those I bought for $5/ea & still use).
Google DIY product photography or visit a Flickr group "Creative Tabletop Photography". A useful group.
Last spend the cash to buy "Light: Science & Magic" by Fil Hunter. It's the best book for understanding lighting objects.
"These things are FINE if you want a sloppy shot for ebay I suppose..."On the other hand, isn't a fair amount of sloppiness kind of reassuring when looking for used stuff?I mean, it implies the photo is most probably of the actual item the seller is offering, rather than a photo from a promo brochure...
edu T: To foldio's creator: I can see you're using a 9V battery for the LEDs; this is a bit of a nuisance inasmuch you need to carry a thick battery besides and apart from the folded panels. (That is, if you don't forget the battery at home.)So, hmm... what if you try to mount 3 lithium coin batteries side by side instead?(e.g. CR2032: 3V, 240 mAh, 20mm D x 3.2mm H, 3 grams, about 50¢ ea. for 500 pc.)
OK, Juhaz and Foldio's creator: I'll settle for 6 AAA alkalines, inside a thin tubular holder running next to the LEDs.BTW, do you know what you'll find inside if you pry open a 9V batt? Six AAAA cells connected in series, indeed...IOW, 6xAAA will run longer than a single 9V "transistor battery", besides fitting inside the device!
OnTheWeb: Looks pretty cool but, of course, needs to be larger.
This size is wonderful for watches and earrings. Nevertheless, rumor has that over the next few months we'll see sizes for wall clocks and necklaces, small trucks and furniture, yachts and refurbished space shuttles.
To foldio's creator: I can see you're using a 9V battery for the LEDs; this is a bit of a nuisance inasmuch you need to carry a thick battery besides and apart from the folded panels. (That is, if you don't forget the battery at home.)So, hmm... what if you try to mount 3 lithium coin batteries side by side instead?(e.g. CR2032: 3V, 240 mAh, 20mm D x 3.2mm H, 3 grams, about 50¢ ea. for 500 pc.)
peevee1: Great photographs!
Tiny sensors are the best for macro. People buying FF or even APS-C for macro are just clueless. m43 unfortunately is the smallest ILC format with native macro lenses, but sometimes manual focus etc is just fine, and then cameras with even smaller sensors should be used. Or simply P&S if the built-in lens is OK for macro.
If Pentax ever gets around to making a dedicated supersharp macro lens for Q, something like Q10 will suddenly start to make a lot of sense.
"Why are tiny sensors best for macro?"
Because the lenses they come with have relatively very short focal length, which is a real boost to your already critically shallow depth of field at short distances.
(An A650 zoom, for instance, has a "normal" angle of view at 11 mm; what matters here are the "real" mm, the ones marked on the lens barrel, not the "equivalent" FL.)
IOW, the relationship between sensor size and DoF is a case of correlation, not causation.
Tony Ellis: I love these photos! - I have no idea how it is done? I get that it is a compact with a lens 'reversed' but not sure how it all gets put together... What is under all that tape? If anyone can post a link to a good site where it is explained I would be very grateful
Does it work with lenses that are not around the 50mm area?
The author himself cared to explain his well thought out optical contraption:http://chaoticmind75.blogspot.ru/2013/08/my-technique-for-snowflakes-shooting.html
--and, not to be overlooked, the whole noise averaging process:http://chaoticmind75.blogspot.ru/2013/08/about-averaging-identical-shots.html
If you are feeling "very grateful" now, then thank him... :)
A 1"-type sensor is NOT, as mentioned, "slightly larger in size than that of an advanced point-and-shoot camera."It has TWICE the area of a 2/3" sensor (fuji X20, XQ1) and 2.7x the area of the more common 1/1.7" (G16, LX7, XZ-2, etc.)
edu T: (what I'd like to know is) WHO's the soundtrack by...?a nice juxtaposition of '70s-ish all-too-familiar elements --hence the integration with the cliche images-- but with the bonus of elaborate, haunting vocal harmonies (0'48").thanks anyone!
Thanks, Rowel. Loved your painstakingly well done volley sequence, http://roelh.zenfolio.com/p1046028174/h5854a698#h5854a698 . (BTW it was a neat touch, setting the axes of most of the zooming in/out action on those off-center balls.)