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I actually went out and got a second 5D3 body and tested (as was suggested by someone on FM) on a multi-bar horizontal and multi-bar vertical print target, instead of just a single white/black...
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The focus difference appears to be the largest with my 24mm TS-E. With the 14L, 35L and 100L, the difference is about 2-3 points instead of 5-6.
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I've been trying to MFA my 5D3 using the Dot Tune method (and have been posting on the main thread on Fred Miranda about this), and I found a strange inconsistency in the way my 5D Mark III is...
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I suspect the majority of users (beyond the forum readers) are probably not even aware the focus issue even exists let alone tested their camera for it. It's much more pronounced with fast wide...
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Dirty, broken, or damanged AF contacts on the body lens mount?
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Is this for real? Does anyone else see the irony here? The OP bought a $6,700 pro camera body, and is questioning how to do in-camera JPEG sharpening? Something seems wrong with that picture.
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One of those people would be me. I just wrapped up a 100+ post thread on the Nikon board after I got 3 faulty D800E bodies from B&H in the last 2 weeks. They refused to exchange another one for me...
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I'm not familiar with it. Does it have it's own issues?
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Here are a few closing thoughts from Thom Hogan after he and I went back and forth over sample images and everything I have posted here. I asked him if he thought the focus behavior I was showing...
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This statement just proves how much of an idiot you are. If you head over to Thom Hogan's site (which you claimed to be intimately familiar with earlier when you were bashing the Reikan targets as...
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What did you ending doing? I have no investment in Nikon at this point. I returned $12k worth of kit and am a free agent right now. :)
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Haha. He didn't explain exactly. Just said that after three exchanges, they will only allow me to refund or switch to another camera.
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This is a possibility, but honestly, I don't think I have it in me. I already have to deal with boxing and shipping back a ton of gear, again. I could go test a local camera (only one retailer that...
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Well I guess I'm done. After receiving (and wanting to return) three faulty D800E bodies, B&H is forcing me to either refund or get a different camera. They won't exchange another one. I guess the...
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I'm not sure if it matters at this point. I did test this on the first body, and the left AF point was -20 (maxed out), which helped significantly, but I couldn't go any further. And that obviously...
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Even though this is my 3rd D800E body in 2 weeks? I could have a 4th exchange on the way this week. Need to try and figure out if it's worth it or if this is just a permanent design flaw in the...
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I agree, the +10 is too much. The problem is that any + positive movement adjusts the left focus point in the complete wrong direction. With the center point front focusing, and the left back...
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Leonard, I appreciate you trying to help, but I think you've added enough "advice" to this thread. Thank you anyway. I don't however appreciate you treating anyone on here that has an equipment...
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Here is the 35 1.4G, left focus point only (same as previous post). CDAF, PDAF 0, PDAF +10. The PDAF 0 appears to be back focusing a bit. The +10 (to make the center focus point sharper) obviously...
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Here is the 35 1.4G, center focus point only. CDAF, PDAF 0, PDAF +10. The PDAF 0 appears to be front focusing a bit. The +10 was a bit too course of an adjustment, +5 or +7 might be better, but it...
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