"Well, once I figured out the optimal configuration, I was able to capture some impressive images."
Perhaps you should have posted them.
Seriously, universe. I know you have a hammer, but not everything is a nail. Your phone is not the right tool for the job, if you want great product photos. Or even mediocre product photos. Get a cheap camera, a tripod, and some continuous lighting.
john: color management are only good for publishing, like matching a pantone color, they produce flat boring color in photography, because color in real life are nt that vivid and saturated
That's possibly the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard.
On the wbal disc - correct me if I'm wrong, but it only corrects the general overall color; if you have multiple lightsources and are primarily concerned about one particular area (say you have a person standing under one light and a big background that is lit by another color entirely) you're going to get a wbal that's somewhere between the two, while a grey card could give you a reading for one or the other.
Also, wouldn't it be reading to the color of whatever light is falling on it (eg where you're standing) in addition to whatever is off in front if it where your shot is?
photonius: I wonder about this white balance approach with cards/cubes during capture. During film days, you never could adjust the white balance of a slide film. Yes, one had daylight and tungsten film, or one could put on filters to adjust color temperature. But overall, the human mind adjusts color balance, and white during a sun-set should just be more red than in white in the shade at high noon. I presume Pros still use a Color Meter to record the actual Kelvin when the picture is taken, but simply using a white/grey card, to set a scene shot at noon to the same white point on a computer screen as a scene shot in the evening seems wrong.
Still-life folks still use colormeters to make sure that they're getting their light sources to be all exactly the same- that the head you're shooting through a softbox and the head you've shooting through the plexi table and head with the grid on it all end up dropping the same color light on your object - because if your light sources are different, wb is going to be nearly impossible.
I haven't used it (safaris not my thing), but I see that Really RIght Stuff has just released a set of safari-specific clamps and mounting hardware. Seems like it might be worth a look - all their gear I've ever tried has been totally bombproof and incredibly well designed.
link to one of their gear packages: http://preview.tinyurl.com/76nkqjb
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