Today I updated the E-M1 (to vers. 1,4) and the E-P5 (to vers. 1,5). BOTH cameras now have the new Antishock setting! I have also the latest firmware on my E-M5 (vers 2,0) but it does not have the new Antishock setting. That is a pity and I do really hope Olympus will update this camera also. I'ts of course possible to use the 1/8 s Antishock setting but my impression is that it gives a short delay compared to the 0 s setting on the updated bodies.
Ratzfatz: I bought the EP5 last week. I tried it first with the Pana 12-35. Almost any pictures taken at around 1/60 or 1/80 at 12 to 30mm are massively blurred and I can replicate this any time. I sent these pictures to Olympus and awaiting a reply. Turning in the menue the permantly IBIS off when touching the release button and have it only active when taking the picture (full press on release button) helps a lot. But this cannot be a solution. My OMD has a perfect working IBIS under any circumstances for thousands of pictures now and the body of the OMD (except from the EVF) is actually smaller than the EP5's. I hope my camera is just defect rather having a general construction fault.
Check this picture taken at 35mm and 1/80, IBIS set to Auto:https://www.dropbox.com/s/qgeq1alnb5a74ii/London-7-2.jpgI was standing still and taking my time to take it.
I like to add: And double check your settings! I did get wrong white balance and I had probably changed that setting. "Auto" works well most of the time but not always especially not for fluorescent light. Olympus gives you all possibilities to customize your camera but it's also possible something get's wrong in that process!
Hello,You must tell how you have taken this picture! Have you used the VF-4 viewfinder? Have you squeezed the trigger (not pushed it). Have you had your elbows against your chest to stabilize the camera? The reason I'm asking is because no camera can compensate for bad practice, If you have done all this and the pictures still are blurry then theres something wrong with your equipment. Was the stabilisation off on your lens?
I have just taken pictures handheld with my new E-P5 and the 17mm 1,8 at 1/60s (IS=auto) and the result is very sharp. I don't have the Pana 12-35 so I can't test that lens.
tanniewu: I think this 12-35/2.8 and the other 35-100/2.8 are two must buy lens, at least until perhaps Oly makes a better 12-35/2.0 at reasonable price.
The larger and constant aperture is very handy in in-door and evening lighting situations. Although the it's not comparable to APS-C and FF DOF, in reality you don't really always need such shallow DOF. When you want that, one can always use 25/1.4 or 45/1.8, and it comes in a lighter and smaller package overall.
Hello,I don't understand this complaining about not the same DOF in APS-C and FF!? The better DOF in 4/3 is an ADVANTAGE in most situations! I think this DOF thing is actually a FUD thing from Canikon & Co! I'm an experienced photographer since abour 40 years and I've even been working commersially. Most of the time is too little DOF the problem. This is actually one of the great advantages with the 4/3 system, the much better DOF (depth of field). It's somewhat limited by the diffraction effect that's seen above about f8.
Sometimes you want less DOF (for me not very often and then and only then is there any advantage with FF). Besides 4/3 is FF as the whole system is engineered around this format. APS-C is not full frame as it is based on another bigger format.