Fahd: Nikons flagship offers full HD while most flagship smart phones now offer 4k.
What use is 4k? To anybody?
Looks like a modest refinement of a good tool.
Joel Benford: If you guys don't mind an ignorant question from a stills shooter asking out of curiosity... When we say "external recorder" for 10 bit, what sort of size/weight/PSU/price are we talking there? Is it the size of a margarine tub, or a shoebox? And how many zeroes on the price?
If you guys don't mind an ignorant question from a stills shooter asking out of curiosity... When we say "external recorder" for 10 bit, what sort of size/weight/PSU/price are we talking there? Is it the size of a margarine tub, or a shoebox? And how many zeroes on the price?
After buying a Nex-6, I swore I would never buy another camera without a vertical grip and a second shutter release.
Direct ISO dial is very nice too.
And aperture on the lens. And an exposure comp dial.
Holy cow, you could use this baby in aperture priority, using the lens and the exposure comp dial, and that dial under the shutter would be free for other things.
The 1020 is a very nice camera for a phone. But I care about my camera more than than my phone. What I really want from "convergence" is a camera that makes phone calls and runs Android apps, not a phone with a beefed up phone camera.
Front wheel for aperture, real wheel for exposure compensation, google streetmap + gps to work where I've wandered in a daze whilst taking photos, a phone to call a taxi and get me home, and my games of choice (not the camera maker's choice) to play while I wait.
Now there's a converged "one less gadget" solution I could like.
io_bg: I highly doubt the D4 will have a 24 or even 36 mp sensor. It'll probably be the same old 16 mp one with some slight improvements (just like the slight differences between the Df and D4 IQ).
I'm expecting a mid-life refresh -- the low ISO dynamic range improvements from the Df, a few more FPS and 1080P60 from the new processor, button tweaks, that kind of thing.
Extra pixels and 4k sound like a D5.
If very shallow focus was my great interest in life, MFT is not the system I'd buy into. So I'm not really sure who this is for.
Maybe it's for people who don't do shallow focus much, but when they need it they need it bad?
Are there people like that?
Or is for people who like a Leica badge...
Any chance you could get some OOF background highlights, to check the bokeh balls, next time?
wisep01: Breaking news: the Nikkor 58mm f/1.4G, the lens that set the world afire with a new standard in mediocrity now sets a new standard in grade inflation.
Will wonders never cease?
"I want my lenses to have great bokeh AND great sharpness. Is that too much to ask?"
IANALD (I Am Not A lens Designer) but I think it might be. Aspherics are the enemy of bokeh, and spherical designs are the enemy of sharpness, at a given price.
So witness the onion rings in the bokeh on mid-price aspherics, or the lovely bokeh but soft corners of the Zeiss 50/1.5 M.
If you pay enough (Leica 50/1.4 asph) you get a pretty good show of both, but that's several times the cost of this Nikon.
Would be interesting to see some XTrans vs Bayer raw conversion comparisons...
There's a trial.
I never had v8, but after trying the high ISO NR I bought it and made it fit in with my Lightroom workflow. I really didn't want to complicate things, but it was too good to ignore.
"A police officer looked me in the eyes and said, 'You shouldn’t be here. Another bomb could go off.'"
Yep, journos risk their lives to bring us the truth (how many reporters killed in Syria this year?), and dpreview readers moan.
About normal, then.
You people are more depressing than the pictures.
Gregography: I've never figured out why there is so little love for the Sony Nex-6.
I have one, and I'm OK for lenses. I have the collapsible zoom as my small carry everywhere, and the 35/1.8 for available light. I would like a faster tele-zoom option, however.
My issues are that the menus are rubbish, and the fact that I have to use them for shooting rather than use them for configuring shooting buttons is even more rubbish.
Also, it can't track a moving subject in low light for toffee.
But it is a good all-rounder at a good price, and pretty compact for what it does.
Can any of these cameras do bounced flash? I think that's worth more than all the features discussed here for "socal photography".
Cameras with flash that tilts up, either by design or "unofficially" like the RX100, have a huge edge.
A really good "social camera" would do bounce and fill, with some kind of inbuilt gel system to match the light (as measured by an ambient colour temeperature sensor). Gah, what are the odds Apple put that on a phone before any of the camera companies get a bloody clue?
RStyga: Let's us dispense with the myth that all "professional" photographers know exactly what they want or what it is required. I have seen a fair share of them not having a clue about what gear to buy, not only because they fail to follow the industry's rapid changes (understandable to a certain a extent) but also because they don't even know basic technological terminology (e.g. what is VC/IS/OIS/IS).
There is a significant difference between a person who makes money out of taking photographs, a photographer (in the artistic sense), and one who knows about photographic technology and application. Neither category implies any of the other.
Yep. "Professional" comes from the Greek "pro fesso" which means "for money". It means you get paid. Skill, knowledge, artistry and dedication are not required (though they may all help).
Tap0: Is there a 50mm cheap autofocus 1.8 lens that I can use with this without any vignetting or having to use an ugly and expensive adapter ? Without affordable lenses at the time of launch, what is the point of this release ?
Only on adapters, and only manual focus if cheap.
You might try for a Contax 50/1.7 in the old Yashica/Contax mount. It's pretty nice, and I think you could get if for on the order of 100-150 dollars with a basic adapter.
dgc4rter: If you can afford the lens then great! Personally, I'll stick with my trusty 50mm 1.4 and take one step forward or my 85mm 1.4 and take two steps back.
Sometimes the step forward puts me in the road with the cars, and the steps back put me through a shop window.
But when it works, the shoe leather zoom is very economical (especially at f/1.4).
2 things I often see:
1. "Use a prime and just take a few steps"
In my world that means "a few steps forward into car traffic" or "a few steps back through a plate glass window". For street/indoor photography, a standard zoom is a blessing.
2. "Go through your EXIF data and see what you use most, so you can buy a prime".
I did. 35 and 50mm equiv were neck and neck, with 43mm (true standard) maybe 15% higher because that's how I set my lens between shots. I have shots of people sat around a table that need around 28-30mm.
So, yay for standard zooms instead of primes.
Personally I'd want it to go wider, for when I shoot "the room" rather than "people in the room". And I'd want brighter, because I live in the dark. I'd live with the weight to get those options.
But for outdoor SP guys, this could be really nice -- set it to a standard length between shots to be ready for grabs, zoom to frame when you have the time, choose a place to stand if you have the freedom.
Michael de Ruijter: Is that seriously the hood ? ? ?
It can't be . . .
You are correct, Michael. And the effect can be suprisingly strong.
Hoods are for contrast, not flare, most of the time on a decent lens.