Oleg L K

That "Bower SFD290 Auto Flash" I pointed you to on B&H exists with various mounts. Maybe the name is a bit different. It's better to pick one with universal hot-shoe. I think the Sony version is...

I'm using an analog of "Bower SFD290 Auto Flash" (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/683729-REG/Bower_SFD290_SFD290_Auto_Flash.html) with my NEX C3. Out-of-stock at B&H, but there are analogs...

Well, if you want a stay-on-camera lens, having focal length equivalent to ~50mm full-frame is more important than having huge apperture opening. So, I'd look at 28-35mm lenses, this throws away...

Well, I'd advice you against JPEG-based flow. If you want good digital stereo, you need resolution, pixel-level quality, highlight- and shadow-detail preservation. This translates into RAW...

Again, I'm coming from the PC/Windows land and feel rather comfortable there. Recently I bought myself a ... Windows-8 tablet to work with photos "on the go" and "in the bed". It's Asus ME400C; it...

Sorry, what is "crystal image zoom"? I don't recall anything like this on my NEX C3.

The smallest relevant lens is (Belo)Russian Industar-69 28mm f/2.8 - originally intended for "Chaika" half-frame rangefinders. Not _great_, but very adequate, especially given its size.  You need...

I own Minolta 100-300 f/4.5-4.6 APO D and Minolta 75-300 f/4.5-4.6 .  The 100-300 was great with film, but unusable on Sony A100 and Sony A55 - absolutely non-sharp unless closed-down to...

Of course, I look at it without the glasses too. But still it's a color-anaglyph picture and it's worth taking a look with the glasses on. E.g. you'd better part with some 3-5USD and buy yourself...

For the regular computer display you can only use anaglyph glasses. Red-cyan option is preferred. But do yourself favor, buy reasonable-quality plastic glasses, they are cheap enough on the net....

The whole point (well, for me) of the stereo image is to see the true object structure, not just notice objects have Z-axis separation. And here, unlike with the conventional prints, the pixel...

Yes, regarding the resolution, I tend to think upscaling is not friendly to the correlation between left and right images. And indeed, from my experience it doesn't help to print more pixels than...

I'm doing a lot of anaglyph prints using Loreo stereo lenses. If carefully done, the results are great. An A4 print carries 6-7 MPixels of data; high resolution and high point density are crucial...

I bought myself one of these, and it works fine. Actually I'd prefer the black version, but they sell for ~20$ more. Unless there are numerous reports of the specific lens design being unreliable,...

I use DRO a lot in the Sony Image Data Converter - on the RAW files from A100, A55 and NEX C3.I use manual settings, and it works great. Especially with the dark fur of my kerry-blue-terrier dog...

I tried to contact Sony with brightness-control proposal; feels like talking to a wall.By the way, it was slightly better with Hasselblad - at least I got a confirmation that a physical person...

My advice: unless you have external strobes, don't use the flash at all underwater.Several years ago I wrote an article on the topic, see it here:...

As to me the "walkaround" lens depends on where are you going to "walk". If only in the city, 18mm (APSC) wide end is enough; if in the nature, I find it boring not to have at least 16mm...

The original Sigma 18-125 f/3.5-5.6 is not a pro lens but has a pronounced "3d-effect". I spotted it on many of my photos from the A100 era, and I never did anything special to achieve it. Just...

I own both Minolta 75-300 (version 2) and Minolta 100-300 APO D. The 100-300 was better on film, but totally non-sharp on digital - A100 and A55. The 75-300 stays usable and relevant, even though...