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That "Bower SFD290 Auto Flash" I pointed you to on B&H exists with various mounts. Maybe the name is a bit different. It's better to pick one with universal hot-shoe. I think the Sony version is...
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I'm using an analog of "Bower SFD290 Auto Flash" (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/683729-REG/Bower_SFD290_SFD290_Auto_Flash.html) with my NEX C3. Out-of-stock at B&H, but there are analogs...
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Well, if you want a stay-on-camera lens, having focal length equivalent to ~50mm full-frame is more important than having huge apperture opening.
So, I'd look at 28-35mm lenses, this throws away...
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Well, I'd advice you against JPEG-based flow. If you want good digital stereo, you need resolution, pixel-level quality, highlight- and shadow-detail preservation. This translates into RAW...
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Again, I'm coming from the PC/Windows land and feel rather comfortable there.
Recently I bought myself a ... Windows-8 tablet to work with photos "on the go" and "in the bed". It's Asus ME400C; it...
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Sorry, what is "crystal image zoom"? I don't recall anything like this on my NEX C3.
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The smallest relevant lens is (Belo)Russian Industar-69 28mm f/2.8 - originally intended for "Chaika" half-frame rangefinders. Not _great_, but very adequate, especially given its size. You need...
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I own Minolta 100-300 f/4.5-4.6 APO D and Minolta 75-300 f/4.5-4.6 .
The 100-300 was great with film, but unusable on Sony A100 and Sony A55 - absolutely non-sharp unless closed-down to...
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Of course, I look at it without the glasses too. But still it's a color-anaglyph picture and it's worth taking a look with the glasses on.
E.g. you'd better part with some 3-5USD and buy yourself...
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For the regular computer display you can only use anaglyph glasses. Red-cyan option is preferred.
But do yourself favor, buy reasonable-quality plastic glasses, they are cheap enough on the net....
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The whole point (well, for me) of the stereo image is to see the true object structure, not just notice objects have Z-axis separation. And here, unlike with the conventional prints, the pixel...
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Yes, regarding the resolution, I tend to think upscaling is not friendly to the correlation between left and right images. And indeed, from my experience it doesn't help to print more pixels than...
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I'm doing a lot of anaglyph prints using Loreo stereo lenses. If carefully done, the results are great.
An A4 print carries 6-7 MPixels of data; high resolution and high point density are crucial...
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I bought myself one of these, and it works fine. Actually I'd prefer the black version, but they sell for ~20$ more.
Unless there are numerous reports of the specific lens design being unreliable,...
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I use DRO a lot in the Sony Image Data Converter - on the RAW files from A100, A55 and NEX C3.I use manual settings, and it works great. Especially with the dark fur of my kerry-blue-terrier dog...
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I tried to contact Sony with brightness-control proposal; feels like talking to a wall.By the way, it was slightly better with Hasselblad - at least I got a confirmation that a physical person...
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My advice: unless you have external strobes, don't use the flash at all underwater.Several years ago I wrote an article on the topic, see it here:...
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As to me the "walkaround" lens depends on where are you going to "walk". If only in the city, 18mm (APSC) wide end is enough; if in the nature, I find it boring not to have at least 16mm...
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The original Sigma 18-125 f/3.5-5.6 is not a pro lens but has a pronounced "3d-effect". I spotted it on many of my photos from the A100 era, and I never did anything special to achieve it. Just...
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I own both Minolta 75-300 (version 2) and Minolta 100-300 APO D. The 100-300 was better on film, but totally non-sharp on digital - A100 and A55. The 75-300 stays usable and relevant, even though...
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Oleg L K has not added any dpreview gear yet.
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