Alberto Tanikawa: Positioning the light right next to the lens will give the same/similar red eye or eye glow we get on our smartphones. Better to mount it off camera whenever possible.
A light right next to the lens is an issue with both stills and video. An iphone with its light on during video capture of a crowd in a dark environment will reveal many blue/white glowing eyes in the crowd.
Positioning the light right next to the lens will give the same/similar red eye or eye glow we get on our smartphones. Better to mount it off camera whenever possible.
Wow, this is really getting interesting. I can only imagine the possibilities of a Super 35 or Fullframe sized light field sensor, and be able to shoot 4:4:4 4K video footage that could be post adjusted for focus. The raw video file would be ginormous! ;-)
Alberto Tanikawa: If one is so worried, use a magnetized driver so the screws come off with the driver, and don't fall on the sensor. People start to patch together all manner of adapters and parts into flimsy rigs, or no rigs at all, then complain when the camera that wasn't designed for said use breaks - and breaks predictably. The A7 and A7r were initial extensions of the NEX line if memory serves me right, so the two part composite mount was a carryover design. Sony replaced the mount on the A7s with a single metal piece - that is just evolution of the design, be glad Sony did that.
No one is stopping anyone interested in this product from acquiring it, but having said so, you replace the mount at your own risk. A good technician would notice signs of tampering (if you put the original parts back, and didn't give it to your cats), so if you bring the body in for "warranty repairs", be aware that your repair may not be covered by the warranty.
And btw, when the guy says "really good screwdriver", for Japanese products such as cameras and other electronics, you want to use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) drivers. He clearly used the wrong phillips Wiha driver for the job. Wiha doesn't make JIS drivers - trust me, I looked - but they are indeed a "really good screwdriver" brand ;-)
If one is so worried, use a magnetized driver so the screws come off with the driver, and don't fall on the sensor. People start to patch together all manner of adapters and parts into flimsy rigs, or no rigs at all, then complain when the camera that wasn't designed for said use breaks - and breaks predictably. The A7 and A7r were initial extensions of the NEX line if memory serves me right, so the two part composite mount was a carryover design. Sony replaced the mount on the A7s with a single metal piece - that is just evolution of the design, be glad Sony did that.
EinsteinsGhost: "DPR Staff", what exactly is an "FE-mount"? (Hint: It isn't that, it is E-mount).
Maybe "Fe" as in the chemical symbol for iron? :-)
Poweruser: "VC" is a built in breaking point. The more stuff in a lens, the more likely something will fail and turn the whole thing into a paper weight.
I'll take VC/VR/IS/OS any day over not having it. Not all photography is done on tripods, in a studio, or in controlled environments.
Smokymtnhiker: Only a free-trial now.
I just downloaded the full version a few minutes ago, complete with a full license number. Maybe you could try again?
Fahd: Nikons flagship offers full HD while most flagship smart phones now offer 4k.
4K from a tiny sensor compared to 1080p from a much bigger sensor... Marketed to different crowds, different quality standards too. I would take 1080p with ProRes 4444 over 4K with h.264 and low bitrates.
Would've liked to see a firmware update for my D7100 to allow dual functions to Fn and Pv, like I have it in my D3. As it stands it's single function only: either press or press+turn, not both.
I have 20-13 vision, and I can read the e-mails on my phone from 30" away, 20" comfortably. I don't use my phone at 8" - I think that's ridiculous, or whoever does needs to have their eyes examined (nearsighted). Instead of ever increasing pixel density, how about higher contrast, much higher color gamut, more accurate color calibration from factory, better visibility in direct sunlight, higher efficiency, etc. These are much more worthwhile features to add than pixel density beyond 300dpi.
SHood: This will kill the Nikon backed QXD. That would explain why no one else supported QXD.
Donnie G, CFast is not compatible with CF. The former uses a serial type transfer, while the latter uses a parallel type. Wish they were compatible though.
DDWD10: Haven't electronically-controlled ND filters been used before in compact cameras in lieu of actual aperture blades to reduce diffraction? I remember hearing this. Of course, Nikon's proposed system is much more advanced.
I was going to mention this, but you've beaten me to it :) It would be nice to have a manually adjustable electronic ND filter built into the sensor. Something with a range of 1-3 stops would be good; 1-10 would be perfect.
MaxiMax: For this sensor size, there is absolutely no DOF (aperture) control and no bokeh effect... As with any camera phone, It is just a snapshot camera aimed for image documentation and not artistic photography.
Houseqatz, I'm not disputing that the lens is not f/2.2, rather that the 8mm f/2.2 lens on the 2/3" sensor would have a similar amount of background blur of a 26mm at f/8 on a full frame sensor. I know my phone has a tiny sensor and everything looks sharp - its f/2.8 lens is no help. My crop body camera at f/2.8 blurs the background nicely; my full frame camera is even better at that; and the large format camera I played with in college just takes the cake. The real focal length, not equivalent focal length, helps determine the amount of background blur. This cannot be disputed, it's physics.
yabokkie, from a wiki on the 1020 the exact focal length seems to be 8.02mm. The Nokia stated 26mm is a full frame equivalent - it had to be since the phone is only 10.4mm thick (slightly thicker in the camera section, and 14.5mm in the grip).
A 2/3" sensor with 8mm f/2.2 would be roughly equivalent to a full frame 26mm f/8. You'd have to be VERY close to your subject in order to achieve any kind of background blurring. The second comment (by user OGLark) on the link provided by kenikh says it all. You can't change the laws of physics.
I see a similar painterly/watercolor effect from recent Fuji cameras equipped with X-Trans sensors. Specially apparent in areas of foliage and other high frequency details. Even in good light images have an over-processed look with blocked up details, which seem to be from unrefined noise reduction (the Fuji images where this fault does not appear have a more refined/natural look though). Reducing the images down to 5mp masks these imperfections well, but cannot hide the so so dynamic range of the sensor (the cityscape shot is clipped on both ends, much more so in the shadows). If users shoot at 5mp only, this actually looks decent and very detailed compared to other camera phones out now.
maksa: Please correct some statements. First, not each new EOS had an improved CMOS sensor, please recall 10D, 30D or 400D. Second, 7D has a 3" 920k LCD screen, not 3.2" 1040k.
Also, D7100 is shown to have incorrect lcd screen info. It's 1,228,800 dots instead of 920K.
Nukunukoo: My question now is: Go for the better IQ of Blackmagic's Pocket Cinema or the better/faster focusing and articulating screen of the 70D?
The BMPC has such a tiny battery, you will need to bring along a ton of spares, or use an external battery pack, which defeats the purpose of it being pocketable. But the video IQ would be more desirable on the BMPC than any other DSLR, save for a ML 5D III shooting raw video. :)