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Joseph S Wisniewski
Lives in
Detroit, United States
Works as a
Engineer
Has a website at
http://www.swissarmyfork.com
Joined on
Jul 12, 2002
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balios: Can you rotate the direction of tilt and shift independently of each other, like the Canon 24mm?
I don't see that "clear gap", Andy.
In the picture above, the dovetail for the shift mechanism is milled directly into the bottom of the tilt goniometer.
Roland Karlsson: Ehhhhhh ,,,,, in what way are they achromatic?
They called it that because the price is $10,000 higher than the regular version, causing the color to drain from your face.
Cal22: You can't ignore the disadvantages this adapter comes along with (more CA, lower contrast, corner softening, poor AF, more weight and bulkiness of FF lens/adapter). That's why it won't be a tool for any photographer in the mirrorless sector. But for some the adapter might prove useful, especially if it comes to wide angle or high aperture FF lenses you possess anyway.
Question: What about the adapter combined with a wide angle shift lens? Will shiftening be increasing optical flaws?
Not really "more CA", "lower contrast", etc. because the adapter and an f1.4 lens really isn't any worse than a purpose-built f1.0 lens for APS C.
Ad far as "more weight and bulkiness", you're still talking a lot smaller and lighter than a FF DSLR running those lenses without an adapter. A Leica M 240 would probably beat it, and the Leica lenses are surprisingly compact. But the M doesn't have "poor AF", it has no AF at all. And an M and a nice 3 lens kit will set you back 10-12 large.
Now, if you pitted it against a FF mirrorless running those f1.4 lenses without the adapter, the FF would win. But those don't exist yet.
One of the reviewers tested a shift lens, and was surprisingly pleased. Personally, I'll believe that when I see it.
Graystar: "Safety First"...Ha! That's a good one! ;)
I didn't catch that caption. Now this conversation makes some sense.
Graystar: "Safety First"...Ha! That's a good one! ;)
I'd say if you missed the humor in that, it's you who needs to get out more. Seriously.
Dan Wagner: When using a studio strobe with more than one outlet, you can set the power setting to the lowest and then put as many heads as possible into the same power bank so the power is divided among them -- all this combines to shortening the flash duration. There are also custom made rheostats that can take the power of a studio flash way down. Of course none of this might make the flash duration as fast as Reugels.
It won't help that much. Most sttudio flashes lower their capacitor voltage to reduce power, which actually increases their duration. An external rheostat will make this even worse.
The only flashes that use speed light style IGBT circuitry to shorten the flash duration are the Broncolor Scoro, the Paul Buff Einstein, and the Photogenic Solairs.
Seriously, the very best way to go about this is to do what the OP did, speed lights on low power, and lots of them. I've been known to use as many as 8 Nikon SB800 on one shot.
Infared: The strobes ...who is the manufacturer????? Looks like home made snoots.
I suppose you're right.
If you haven't read a single piece of photographic literature in the last half century or so, or talked to another photographer, then sure, they aren't interchangeable words.
Graystar: "Safety First"...Ha! That's a good one! ;)
Mixing high voltage electronic devices and water is fun, lol.
Flashes use the same sort of circuitry as defibulators.
AV Janus: Output power or flash time duration lower than 1/16000? What is it?
Output power is easy to adjust with some filter but flash duration time is different...
Bet your German isn't as good as his English.
Substitute "speed" for "duration", and it makes more sense. Seriously, I got what he does from what he wrote. The essence is "turn the power way down to make it work".
Wilmar Boer: I happen to have a D700 with a Tokina 100mm macro, a SB800 and SB900 flash.
i just want to experiment with this kind of photography. Is there a method of triggering the flashes without having to buy a +/- $300,- timing unit?
One dropper, not two. Squeeze gently, and one drop follows another.
I got more ambitious and bought a needle valve (about $8 at the hardware store) and mounted it in a hole I drilled in the plastic lid of a water bottle (about $0 from the recycle bin). Then I attached a "nozzle" that I improvised from a ball-point pen cap (about $0 from the bin, again) and viola, drops at adjustable intervals, all afternoon.
facedodge: I hadn't considered lowering the power on the flash. Is 1/16000 really necessary? I'd think that fast of an exposure is a bit overkill.
Time to build an air gap flash...
Joseph S Wisniewski: I'm not having much luck with this one. The article says "Here are few paragraphs from the actual patent application I copied directly from the Japanese IPDL database."
So, I popped over to the IPDL database, searched for that publication number, and got a "There is no corresponding document" message. I must be doing something wrong...
Thank you very much.
That worked.
Anastigmat: I think one reason to file such a patent may be to PREVENT anybody who may be thinking about converting the existing film cameras into digital cameras. They cannot do it now if Nikon says they violated this patent. I doubt that Nikon will ever build any digital camera backs to retrofit its film cameras. And if Nikon won't then the reason for filing this patent is to stop other people from doing it. It would be nice to retrofit a full frame sensor onto an F5 and have a digital camera with interchangeable prisms. It is not going to happen, though. Mark my words.
Read what the patent is actually for, lol.
It's about an adjustment mechanism for a digital back. That's not going to PREVENT anyone from doing anything, at all. The actual digital back for 35mm camera patents all go back so long ago that they're expired. The only patents still in force are for refinements of the concept.
bikinchris: They could hang a battery pack where the motor drive went. They could even include a motor drive inside. But that would raise the price a lot. If they made it modular, they could include a back for the different models, a sensor would clip into the back and the whole thing would plug into the electronics and battery hung off the tripod mount.
I might want to start looking for another F3 or Fm2 body.
No, Chris, it wouldn't. I had a $29 power winder for a Nikon FG, LOL.
marcuz: That's amazing, I've thought nobody thought of that, that I invented it :)
I sure hope they do it right, film like quality on a electro-chemical, or bio-electric, what you have, sensor; adjustable iso by camera knobs, 35 exposures, then you rewind it, extract it, plug it on a computer and post produce.
Winding again the film erases the images on it and reset it.
And, as I'm sci-fictioning, it should be as affordable as original film rolls were in their heyday.
Sorry.
I have a list of over 100 patents on digital film backs or canisters for 35mm cameras, some going back over 20 years.
I'm not having much luck with this one. The article says "Here are few paragraphs from the actual patent application I copied directly from the Japanese IPDL database."
So, I popped over to the IPDL database, searched for that publication number, and got a "There is no corresponding document" message. I must be doing something wrong...
drbird: Certainly a nice camera....Just take it out in the cold (-26°C - 32°C) on day two both camera were still working perfect just both displays were unusable...the EVF went black/grey the rear LCD was black. This was the same with the 5DMK III but at least we could still use the OVF. This and the delay of the EVF for birds in flight or other action shots were seeing what you capture is important just makes it a no go for me. btw the displays came back to live when we got down from the mountains ...another drawback was that the camera was just eating batteries in the cold about 5-8 times more than equivalent cameras with OVF. Sure the camera is fine for many things but I pray that the OVF will stay with us for a long time to come.
Phase detection AF can only work if the lens's aperture is open to f5.6 or larger. That's physics.
So, Sony had a choice, lock it out as soon as the aperture went below f5.6, which would confuse users because the AF would constantly be switching from PD to CD, or just lock it out, so it's consistently CD across all apertures.
One of those situations where, no matter what the engineers do, someone is not going to be happy,
Pentax_Prime: I've always wondered - how exactly does Lytro go about getting front-page space on DPR time after time after time? ...
They send them press releases. DpReview is always short of news items and runs darn near anything that isn't outright spam.
TotallyFred: I think that the 3D aspect of it is the most compelling aspect for now -- at least it can be grasped by many and has more immediate applications the public/viewers could want to use.
The effect seems limited however.
It would be interesting to understand more about the "shifting" capability. Is it really shifting or rotating or a shift/rotate ?
It's not the focal length of the lenses, but the working distance that's the issue. Lenses closer than a human interpupillary distance only produce an adequate 3d image at distances closer than a human "safe distance", as understood by us old codgers.
That's why you see the short stereobase cameras targeting the young, with "in your face" social media style. Also why you have a camera called a "bloggie", LOL. Which, incidentally, gets around some of its stereobase limitations with onboard stereobase expansion software, which is the main reason it's 3d often looks a bit unconvincing.
AV Janus: I must say DOF is very small on those photographs.
What is the 35mm equivalence of hte "sensor" in that Lytro gadget?
It's a 1/2.7 inch sensor, 5.7x crop factor relative to 35mm. The DOF on the photos comes from shooting at the longer focal lengths in highly contrived compositions.