evan47

it seems like you are looking for a problem not a solution. try stopping down to f5.6, or f7.1 and things should improve. i very much doubt there is anything wrong with the camera. if you get a...

i would go for the d7000, 16-85vr and 70-300vr. then add the 35mm 1.8. as for buying abroad; check the warranty as you may not be covered at home. refurbished or lightly used may be a safer bet.

that sounds logical, but it may not have the close focus ability of the af-s version. or even the constant focal length at less than infinity. the 80-400vr upgrade has these drawbacks when compared...

is there a third party lens with nikon mount that is similar to the cannon mpe 65?

probably not. the 200mm f4 is long overdue for a refresh though. what i would like personally would be another different macro lens, something like the cannon mpe 65. not much chance of that...

manfrotto 680b and rc 234 head, makes for a great weapon/walking pole. doubles up as a good steady monopod too!

to do this you would also need the ft-1 adapter and a firmware upgrade on the nikon v2 or v1.

for strictly macro work you could do a little better, even the older 105 af-d is a touch sharper but has harsher bokeh. the sigma 105 os may be the best in its class, the newer tamron 90 vc if is...

was it taken on a tripod with vr on?

if you simply google "nikon d7100 instruction manual pdf " you will be able to get a free download.

its no sweat to carry a monopod and quick release rudy, the manfrotto 680 and rc 234 qr head are my faves. for bif the bush hawk may be worth looking at.

if you look at the top panel, to the right of the lcd you wil see that the +/- button and the af button both have a green dot next to them. when the camera is on press them both at the same time...

it happened to me once in 3 years of ownership of my d90. i removed the lens, then battery, then the card with no luck. then i did a 2 button reset twice and then all was well.

looking at the exif data it sees that the camera settings for aperture, shutter speed and iso were pulled out of a hat! on a reasonably bright day you shouldnt need to go much higher than iso 200....

i had this once with the d7000. it was some kind of dust reflected by the flash.

and the point of this post is....................

personally i would stick with the tried and trusted products, ie; eclipse fluid and sensor swabs. yes, they are a little expensive, but they lessen the risk of botching the job. they are still far...

i use single point af, af-s mode. when focus is achieved i sometimes override it manually to ensure the exact point of focus is where i want it to be. if the subject is off the centre of the frame...

very nice!