Sigma 50-150mm/2.8 or Canon 100/2 or 135/2.
A second camera with an 18-35mm or a 40/2.8?
I'd buy a DP1 Quattro with Canon mount.
Why are the best Tokina so hard to get,
e.g. M35/2.8 or 50-135/2.8
Full Frame, EF Mount, 50 MP, 12 fps, e-shutter
Sigma could do it.
Do you have a lot of frames taken? Maybe the mirror mechanism is worn out,
and the focus mirror isn't where it should be.
Debris in the focus well will also hurt things.
Another thing is that...
On the 7D the 85/1.8 and 135/2 are really good for gyms at
1/500 f/2.2 Auto ISO.
Even better is the $900 Sigma 50-150/2.8 because one ends up
cropping less and what one really wants is the most...
I like Transcend 400x 64GB.
17-70mm (cheap and not bad) but the distortion makes it un-stitch-able
and horrid for group photos. Really nice for snapshots.
18-35mm (Amazing lens, but expensive) The sooner bought the sooner...
I believe the 7D sensor only receives down to f/2.2 and fakes lower f/.
How about the 40mm/2.8 which really pleases and is very cheap.
ICE, free from Microsoft Research, blows away every other stitcher.
A much higher success rate, much faster and better quality stitching,
and if one must go manual, a good pre-tool for the other...
Sigma 50-150mm 2.8 OS is really sweet if you must zoom.
Much better and cheaper than 50/1.4 and 35/2.
Level with Tokina 35/2.8.
Small and cheap enough to use as a body cap.
Fits on camera in jacket parka.
40/2.8 STM and 85/1.8 or maybe (100/2) -or-
for daylight sports 70-200mm/4
If movie mode requires AF then the GH3 is poor.
If movie mode requires MF then the Blackmagic is miles better.
And so the GH3 gets Gold for movie mode?
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||3 weeks ago
||May 10, 2008