lightnfast: My young nephew was watching me struggle with a Galaxy tablet to take a picture in sun light. I had left my camera home. He made a statement that kind of made sense. He said, why don't they just put a view finder somewhere convenient on those tablets, they are big enough and that would help eliminate that 'I can't see the picture on the tablet in bright light issue'. I said they do not put view finders on that smart phone you have. He said I guess it doesn't have enough room , but Uncle that table sure does. And I think they would sell a boat load of them.
Here you go - the world is yours for $29.95! http://www.daylightviewfinder.com/
sunkenbranch: It was pleasing to see the conclusion. I have the D7100 and am getting the Olympus next week! Wishiing good food and good images to everyone. It all started in a Nikon forum discussing the Df camera. Someone said you ought to check out the Olympus. May I offer the following linkshttp://blog.mingthein.com/2013/09/10/olympus-om-d-e-m1-review-1/http://blog.mingthein.com/2013/09/11/the-2013-olympus-om-d-e-m1-review-2/http://robinwong.blogspot.com.br/2013/09/olympus-om-d-e-m1-review-introduction.html
Does DXO take any photographs?
This statement says it all, and show that it is a 'fair' comparison amongst a field of outstanding cameras: "it's hard to imagine anyone being unhappy with any of these cameras". A few years ago people took outstanding professional and fine art images with cameras with lesser dynamic range, slower focusing (remember when you could only really rely on the center focus point) and long turn on times. We're getting a lot of bang for the buck these days. While there are differences between all of these cameras, they all have their happy owners and niche fan base.
That said, I'm not sure why DPR doesn't just provide the list and declare them all winners like they do in the text - declaring an overall winner at the end always exaggerates the differences.
Personally I went for the E-M1 - it is smaller than the dSLRs at this level, has a more consistent experience going between the viewfinder and LCD, and is the high end of a system with very portable options.
OneGuy: I like to read up on Nikon Df but GM1 is something I am actually thinking of getting. But I was looking for an answer to the ol' AF question. Is it better with 1.7/20mm lens? How much? I see some of your samples use the II version and -- come on, no comment on AF speed?
Is the lens protected well enough? I think it needs a wider (read noticeable) yet light and pliable shoulder strap (that could also be used for wrap-around protection in my daily regular bag).
Don't all Panasonics have that? The GF1 and GH2 that I've used had Quick AF: "The GF1 also has a Quick AF function that begins focusing as soon as the user aims the camera to enable quick focusing"
marike6: This kind of Fujifilm X100s infatuation has been finding its way into a few DPR articles of late, most notably the Nikon Df Preview and the whole "Retro Done Silly" fiasco.
I've enjoyed using both the X100 and X-E1 but I don't know too many photographers who would purposely choose an X100 over a proper FF DSLR, retro or not, for any other reason than convenience.
"Proper"? If the worst you can say about a camera (the X100) is that you enjoyed using it and it was convenient to use, I'm not sure why you would dismiss it...
Love the Halsman/Dali one !
Docmartin: No doubt, the EM-1 is a great camera! However, for those (like me) who want to continue working with the gorgeous FT Pro lenses, the EM-1 will still no replacement for the outdated E-5. I truly believe that FT lenses cannot be used on ANY MFT body without serious IQ loss until a better adapter than the current MMF2/3 is available. The material/build-quality of the MMF3 will for sure cause misalignment, flex and movement. Just have a look at Roger Cicala's findings and their discussion here: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3553373
I don't know - I'd put the 50mm macro on the MMF-3 ahead of any mFT lens I own for IQ. It is hardly just 'good'.
Then again, you should be able to adjust to your heart's content with the ability to set front/rear adjustments on every one of the PDAF sensors, per lens, if you have issues with the adapter... I'd be surprised if the adapter variation is any worse than PDAF variation on a dSLR.
marike6: So more or less as well reviewed as the D7100 or EM-1 mainly due to an emphasis on LiveView AF and the new Dual Pixel AF module relevant mainly for video and LiveView with the 2 STM lenses.
No weather sealing, no 100% Pentaprism VF or dual SD cards. And most puzzling is how easily IQ differences vs a class leading camera like the D7100 can be explained away or marginalized with phrases like "in most situations" or "for the majority of users", "the difference in IQ are slight". Really? Most enthusiast users of this class of camera shoot RAW and edit in LR where the latitude of files or RAW headroom are extremely important.
Don't get me wrong, the 70D is a nice camera and Canon is a great system, but when all the cameras get Gold Awards with similar scores in spite of some key differences, it makes these reviews less specific, less useful for researching cameras than they could be.
I'd be surprised if you could find a significant difference in images taken with the 70D and the D7100 (or the E-M1) in the hands of most buyers of these cameras... There will be differences to be sure - but not significant ones, in my opinion.
DenisBBergeron: Studio ComparisonWHy comparing sharpness and colors from two DSLR cameras without the same lens and without even telling which lens are used on the two camera.
Are we comparing a camera with a Noname 8-600mm f3.5-6.7 @f3.5 and the other with Super Zeiss Tacomar 85mm f1.0 @f5 ?
There is an 'I' in the lower right you can hover over and find out which lens is used: both shot at f/5.6 on the 50mm f/1.4 lenses...
Impressive piece of work! It takes a lot of patience and planning to bring that together...
igorek7: Great news for everyone who are using Micro Four Thirds system! There is a need for a wide-angle high quality prime lens, and I think that 15mm f/1.7 would nicely compliment two other Leica's MFT lenses: 25mm f/1.4 and 42.5mm f/1.2.
My 25/1.4 has a lot better image quality that the full frame camera with 50mm 1/1.4 lens that is left at home... Not to mention that Bokeh can be pretty ugly when stopped down to f/2.8 versus wide open on the 25mm. It is a great 'standard' lens.
Do you take photos or just police MFT equivalence :)
The Manual aperture ring is a nice touch, that pretty much would eliminate my need to hit the menus or need dials on the GM1 for most of my travel shooting :) I suspect, though, that this lens plus the GM1 isn't going to be terribly competitive on price!
El Pix: Spectacle wearers (and others): don't forget a small, watchmakers screwdriver to tighten those little screws that always seem to come loose at the worst possible times!
TSA says screwdrivers less than 7" are OK these days. Scissors with blades under 4" OK. And snow globes with less than 3.4 OZ in them :)
My little Crumpler travel camera bag has:
Memory cardsSpare batteriesND filter, Polarizer10mm extension tube if I don't pack a macro lensMicrofiber clothPen (not the Olympus type!)OMD camera, two or three small primes
The remote trigger and tripod are not high on my list. The first I deal with using the self timer and/or anti-shock setting on the OMD. The tripod I make do with physical structures or IBIS. I find the mini tripods are almost always not big enough, when i really want one it is because there is nothing tall to rest my camera on or against. But I'm not much of a night shooter, so low on my list.
I almost never travel with a flash. I carried one with me on multiple trips and never use it... When I want it, would be to do fill flash on a bright day, and unless I choose a more advanced model, I'm then stuck at 1/250s and smaller apertures only.
Despite these items being small (except for the tablet/computer) I still want to minimize what I carry. All adds up!
name here: Latest Olympus cameras have an anti-shock setting deep in the menus. If you set it to 1/8s, the shutter shock problem is largely eliminated based on other web reviews. If you google it, you can find tests online showing even OMD EM5 is impacted by shutter shock, but the problem goes away if you set anti-shock = 1/8. The downside: This setting increases the shutter lag, so you'll have to tradeoff sharpness with a slight lag.
I think DPR needs to investigate this particular setting, and update the review if it changes any of the conclusions.
Even better, once you've enabled the anti-shock setting (in Menu group E) you can quickly use it or not from the main SCP in both single shot and self timer modes. I leave mine on 1/8s most of the time, unless I'm shooting action/kids.
fz750: I do wonder what the real market is for M4/3 and even for similar cameras like the Nex range. I live i a pretty touristy (Switzerland) place, so see people shooting lanscapes and buildings and stuff all the time, have been on various holidays or trips this year (europe, switzerland, austria, germany, uk, france and once in Israel) around, but I have **not once** seen a M4/3 (other than my own) or Nex, just canikon D-SLR basically, 98% APS-C but some D6/800 and Canon 6D (ignoring all the mass of compact cameras obviously)
I have a E-PL2, use it most of the time it seems (in preference to a canon Eos, despite missing a viewfinder..) and really like it, so am interested in smaller format camera like the OM-D but wonder who is buying all these M4/3 & Nex cameras?
I doubt my subjective sample is representative of total sales! perhaps they more prevalent in some markets?
I live in a small town where you can't really even buy CSCs and at a recent concert saw a Nikon 1, a few MFT cams, Nex, Rebels, etc. Seems like they are out there.
Heefe: Funny how people are so obsessed with the size of the sensor...
'There are moments where you just want to "save a memory" - not necessary make a best possible photograph.'
It is a narrow view of photography to think that 'best possible' and larger sensor are the same thing. Undoubtably, in a studio shootout the larger sensor wins, but in the real world of creating images the camera that helps you execute your vision wins. For many types of photography that may be the smaller camera/system. A few images and uses rely upon absolute IQ for their success, most rely upon concept, composition, etc. The latter are all free to pursue!
CortoPA: Its almost as good a camera as a Pentax K-5 IIs
Too bad the Pentax K-5 doesn't take MFT/FT lenses, or it might be an option :)
PerL: Looks nice, more ergonomic than OM-D, but high price compared to high end APS-C competition which has true OVFs, probably better AF-C and upgrade path to FF.
I have to agree with R Butler - precisely what attracts me to MFT is that from the smallest bodies to the high end ones they all take the same lenses with the same FOV and use.
Not to mention that to get 'small' in dSLRs you typically need to give up features or controls relatively to a similar sized body like the EM-1.
Juck: I thought the whole point of MILC systems was to reduce size? This behemoth is practically the same size as a Canon T5i,,, it's also double the price and has less resolution than the T5i. Heck,,, you could pick up a 70D for less than this thing.
Definitely one for the fanboys.
You are missing the point! It is the size of the SYSTEM that attracts me to Olympus. Sure you can get a small body like the SL1 or T series, but none of those choices offer the sealing and durability, the large viewfinder, twin control dials and customization, etc. And most importantly, I can get small lenses and bodies to round out the system. With the Canon setup you end up going to full frame bodies and lenses. The smallest dSLRs are comparable to the largest MILC cameras. With Olympus (or Fuji and Samsung) it is all one system, from the smallest body to the largest, and the lenses are all compatible. Where is the Canon 24mm or 28mm equivalent prime lens for the T5i? The EM-1 with a pancake lens is still very small, compared to a similarly spec'd APS-C camera and shares lenses with the E-PM2 or GF series. Similarly, if you want fast primes you have to get full frame lenses for your APS-C body...