lightnfast: My young nephew was watching me struggle with a Galaxy tablet to take a picture in sun light. I had left my camera home. He made a statement that kind of made sense. He said, why don't they just put a view finder somewhere convenient on those tablets, they are big enough and that would help eliminate that 'I can't see the picture on the tablet in bright light issue'. I said they do not put view finders on that smart phone you have. He said I guess it doesn't have enough room , but Uncle that table sure does. And I think they would sell a boat load of them.
Here you go - the world is yours for $29.95! http://www.daylightviewfinder.com/
sunkenbranch: It was pleasing to see the conclusion. I have the D7100 and am getting the Olympus next week! Wishiing good food and good images to everyone. It all started in a Nikon forum discussing the Df camera. Someone said you ought to check out the Olympus. May I offer the following linkshttp://blog.mingthein.com/2013/09/10/olympus-om-d-e-m1-review-1/http://blog.mingthein.com/2013/09/11/the-2013-olympus-om-d-e-m1-review-2/http://robinwong.blogspot.com.br/2013/09/olympus-om-d-e-m1-review-introduction.html
Does DXO take any photographs?
This statement says it all, and show that it is a 'fair' comparison amongst a field of outstanding cameras: "it's hard to imagine anyone being unhappy with any of these cameras". A few years ago people took outstanding professional and fine art images with cameras with lesser dynamic range, slower focusing (remember when you could only really rely on the center focus point) and long turn on times. We're getting a lot of bang for the buck these days. While there are differences between all of these cameras, they all have their happy owners and niche fan base.
That said, I'm not sure why DPR doesn't just provide the list and declare them all winners like they do in the text - declaring an overall winner at the end always exaggerates the differences.
Personally I went for the E-M1 - it is smaller than the dSLRs at this level, has a more consistent experience going between the viewfinder and LCD, and is the high end of a system with very portable options.
OneGuy: I like to read up on Nikon Df but GM1 is something I am actually thinking of getting. But I was looking for an answer to the ol' AF question. Is it better with 1.7/20mm lens? How much? I see some of your samples use the II version and -- come on, no comment on AF speed?
Is the lens protected well enough? I think it needs a wider (read noticeable) yet light and pliable shoulder strap (that could also be used for wrap-around protection in my daily regular bag).
Don't all Panasonics have that? The GF1 and GH2 that I've used had Quick AF: "The GF1 also has a Quick AF function that begins focusing as soon as the user aims the camera to enable quick focusing"
Vizio Virtù: Wake up, folks. They try to sell you this mirrorless / EVF rubbish as innovation for your weightsaving comfort but actually it's only for their cost reducing purposes. Cutting off the OVF is cutting off photographers creativity.
I don't see how an EVF cuts off your creativity. A side benefit to me of designing around an EVF is that AF is optimized around CDAF and sensor based PDAF so that focusing and use of the camera is identical in both the viewfinder and the LCD. This frees me up to not have to focus on two sets of user interfaces. What limits creativity is when I get a camera from Canon where I have to go into the custom menu items to turn on 'live view' and change focus modes... Being able to switch between the rear screen and EVF allows for easily taking shots at low angles, magnified focus with old manual focus lenses, video in the viewfinder, aspect ratio switching, previewing of exposure, etc. Plus, a OVF in a small dSLR is typically much less enjoyable to use than an EVF, in my experience. Nothing against OVFs, but not sure why people are so out to get EVFs! The size difference means I have one camera instead of two or three, and I use it for everything... Not 'rubbish' for all of us!
marike6: This kind of Fujifilm X100s infatuation has been finding its way into a few DPR articles of late, most notably the Nikon Df Preview and the whole "Retro Done Silly" fiasco.
I've enjoyed using both the X100 and X-E1 but I don't know too many photographers who would purposely choose an X100 over a proper FF DSLR, retro or not, for any other reason than convenience.
"Proper"? If the worst you can say about a camera (the X100) is that you enjoyed using it and it was convenient to use, I'm not sure why you would dismiss it...
Love the Halsman/Dali one !
Docmartin: No doubt, the EM-1 is a great camera! However, for those (like me) who want to continue working with the gorgeous FT Pro lenses, the EM-1 will still no replacement for the outdated E-5. I truly believe that FT lenses cannot be used on ANY MFT body without serious IQ loss until a better adapter than the current MMF2/3 is available. The material/build-quality of the MMF3 will for sure cause misalignment, flex and movement. Just have a look at Roger Cicala's findings and their discussion here: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3553373
I don't know - I'd put the 50mm macro on the MMF-3 ahead of any mFT lens I own for IQ. It is hardly just 'good'.
Then again, you should be able to adjust to your heart's content with the ability to set front/rear adjustments on every one of the PDAF sensors, per lens, if you have issues with the adapter... I'd be surprised if the adapter variation is any worse than PDAF variation on a dSLR.
NCB: I think people are missing the point with this camera. Forget about the retro looks. It's the retro controls which are important; direct access to the things which photographers have been using since way back. It's a camera for photographers who are at home with those sort of controls. The looks follow from having those controls. Yeh OK they've made sure it looks like the Nikons of old, but all camera makers pay full attention to the marketing side of things, why not?
And people who complain about the rear looking like a digital camera rear are also missing the point; it IS a digital camera, a fully fledged one. Nikon aren't fool enough to cripple the digital side of things in pursuit of some retro ethos.
This camera is what Nikon says it is; a fusion of traditional controls with a totally up-to-date digital engine. Stop looking at the looks; its a serious camera for a particular type of photographer.
What aperture dial? To me that is their biggest miss here - they could at least have released a kit lens with an aperture ring!
marike6: So more or less as well reviewed as the D7100 or EM-1 mainly due to an emphasis on LiveView AF and the new Dual Pixel AF module relevant mainly for video and LiveView with the 2 STM lenses.
No weather sealing, no 100% Pentaprism VF or dual SD cards. And most puzzling is how easily IQ differences vs a class leading camera like the D7100 can be explained away or marginalized with phrases like "in most situations" or "for the majority of users", "the difference in IQ are slight". Really? Most enthusiast users of this class of camera shoot RAW and edit in LR where the latitude of files or RAW headroom are extremely important.
Don't get me wrong, the 70D is a nice camera and Canon is a great system, but when all the cameras get Gold Awards with similar scores in spite of some key differences, it makes these reviews less specific, less useful for researching cameras than they could be.
I'd be surprised if you could find a significant difference in images taken with the 70D and the D7100 (or the E-M1) in the hands of most buyers of these cameras... There will be differences to be sure - but not significant ones, in my opinion.
DenisBBergeron: Studio ComparisonWHy comparing sharpness and colors from two DSLR cameras without the same lens and without even telling which lens are used on the two camera.
Are we comparing a camera with a Noname 8-600mm f3.5-6.7 @f3.5 and the other with Super Zeiss Tacomar 85mm f1.0 @f5 ?
There is an 'I' in the lower right you can hover over and find out which lens is used: both shot at f/5.6 on the 50mm f/1.4 lenses...
Impressive piece of work! It takes a lot of patience and planning to bring that together...
igorek7: Great news for everyone who are using Micro Four Thirds system! There is a need for a wide-angle high quality prime lens, and I think that 15mm f/1.7 would nicely compliment two other Leica's MFT lenses: 25mm f/1.4 and 42.5mm f/1.2.
My 25/1.4 has a lot better image quality that the full frame camera with 50mm 1/1.4 lens that is left at home... Not to mention that Bokeh can be pretty ugly when stopped down to f/2.8 versus wide open on the 25mm. It is a great 'standard' lens.
Do you take photos or just police MFT equivalence :)
The Manual aperture ring is a nice touch, that pretty much would eliminate my need to hit the menus or need dials on the GM1 for most of my travel shooting :) I suspect, though, that this lens plus the GM1 isn't going to be terribly competitive on price!
Treeshade: Strange that many comments call for a fixed prime lens m4/3. Wouldn't such a camera be at a direct competition with APS-C sensor - GR, Coolpix A, and X100s? Prehaps true pocketability with sunken lens is the answer. Could Panasonic put a touch screen, a m4/3 sensor, and a 17.5mm/2.8 AF lens in a 30mm thick casing?
The 40-150mm R lens, for $90 :)
@photo perzon. Here is a shot Kirk Tuck posted from the A99 at ISO 6400: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DZ-132tSRs/Ul8ajNsdcII/AAAAAAAAOIU/ZWXk28GwMgs/s1600/small+girl+for+Craftsy.jpg
And here is a shot I took this weekend at ISO5000 on an MFT sensor: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5RkyKbRHpBE/UmCDJrSP7KI/AAAAAAAAMHQ/pwXxPA0QyfA/s1600/20131013-170921-EM530316.jpg
I'm not seeing ISO2000 as a limit :)
Andy Crowe: "There's no such thing as a free lunch, it seems. The Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM1 offers a larger sensor than many of its big-sensor-small-camera competitors, but enters the market with only one lens designed to fit it without tipping over"
Surely all the pancake lenses (14mm, 17mm, 20mm and PZ14-42) would make perfectly good companions to this camera?
Fortunately I tend to be out taking photos with my camera, rather than sitting it on flat surfaces to see what happens :) I agree that with the other pancake primes this would be a nice little camera to throw in a pocket when doing outdoor activities...even the 45mm f/1.8 is a nice light little lens to complement it.
El Pix: Spectacle wearers (and others): don't forget a small, watchmakers screwdriver to tighten those little screws that always seem to come loose at the worst possible times!
TSA says screwdrivers less than 7" are OK these days. Scissors with blades under 4" OK. And snow globes with less than 3.4 OZ in them :)
My little Crumpler travel camera bag has:
Memory cardsSpare batteriesND filter, Polarizer10mm extension tube if I don't pack a macro lensMicrofiber clothPen (not the Olympus type!)OMD camera, two or three small primes
The remote trigger and tripod are not high on my list. The first I deal with using the self timer and/or anti-shock setting on the OMD. The tripod I make do with physical structures or IBIS. I find the mini tripods are almost always not big enough, when i really want one it is because there is nothing tall to rest my camera on or against. But I'm not much of a night shooter, so low on my list.
I almost never travel with a flash. I carried one with me on multiple trips and never use it... When I want it, would be to do fill flash on a bright day, and unless I choose a more advanced model, I'm then stuck at 1/250s and smaller apertures only.
Despite these items being small (except for the tablet/computer) I still want to minimize what I carry. All adds up!
name here: Latest Olympus cameras have an anti-shock setting deep in the menus. If you set it to 1/8s, the shutter shock problem is largely eliminated based on other web reviews. If you google it, you can find tests online showing even OMD EM5 is impacted by shutter shock, but the problem goes away if you set anti-shock = 1/8. The downside: This setting increases the shutter lag, so you'll have to tradeoff sharpness with a slight lag.
I think DPR needs to investigate this particular setting, and update the review if it changes any of the conclusions.
Even better, once you've enabled the anti-shock setting (in Menu group E) you can quickly use it or not from the main SCP in both single shot and self timer modes. I leave mine on 1/8s most of the time, unless I'm shooting action/kids.