Theelderkeynes: Given the M10 uses the same TruePic VII processor as the M1 does this mean the update can be run on the M10 as well? Dpreview hinted in their review of the M10 that the shake problem had been dealt with. Saying:
"The good news is that we didn't find it to be prone to the image shake that can occur with the PEN E-P5."
Why? Is the M10 already running this fix on the TruPic VII or is it another reason???
Olympus needs to be clearer in its communications on this issue and respect its customer base of whom I am one.
Olympus have been perfectly clear in their communications on the subject - the update is for the E-M1.
tanniewu: Waiting to have this update to my E-P5 and E-M5! Although, I didn't see it as much an issue to me... luckily perhaps :P
This solution is highly dependent upon the way the sensor functions, and as it happens the Panasonic sensor in the E-M1 has the capability. Most other recent Olympus models use a Sony sensor, and it may be that it does not support the features required, in which case you will not see a firmware fix for those models.
Wolfram Ravenwolf: Great, I'm always happy when new firmware updates provide new or improved functionality. Thanks, Olympus!
Now I just wonder if the "0 second anti-shock" feature should be turned on all the time. I understand it only benefits shutter speeds of 1/320 or less, but does it have any disadvantages? Any reason one might not want it always-on? DPReview, what's your recommendation?
I wonder the same about High Frame Rate and Short Release Lag-Time - the manual unfortunately doesn't really explain those settings and I'm still a bit puzzled which advantages/disadvantages they bring. If there's some definitive information out there, I welcome any and all references.
Thanks - and have a beautiful day...
Enabling it disables sequential shooting - that might be a reason for you to not have it on always.
As for high frame rate and short lag time - the problem with the first is battery life and impact on other processing, and I don't know what the issue with the second is, but I seem to recall that you get some sort of warning if you try to enable it.
Henry Richardson: When is Olympus going to fix this? It has been almost 8 months since Olympus acknowledged this problem. I just got back from a month in Nepal and I used my E-M5 while there. I also used the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 in lower light and as I am processing the raw files in LR 4.3 today I am discovering that they all have serious banding. :-( I don't know if any of them can be salvaged. :-( By the way, I have the latest 1.5 firmware for the E-M5 and the latest firmware for the lens too.
They're never going to fix it, otherwise they would have done so by now.
It's often extremely difficult, if not impossible, to fix a hardware issue with software. And given that there are Zuiko lenses in the same range, why would Olympus spend the time and money fixing a problem which would impact sales of their own lenses?
I'm sure that the admission of the problem and the claim that they're working on a fix is merely an exercise in good PR.
Metapatterns: I got here while searching for information on noise banding on the OM-D. I am patched to current firmware (v1.5). I noticed the noise banding in dark areas of the sky while shooting a night scene on a mountain. I could clearly see the banding at ISO800 and even down to 400 it was pretty obvious. Only at ISO200 did it *almost* disappear (still visible but not very noticeable).
Here's the kicker: THIS WAS WITH THE KIT 12-50mm LENS, not the Lumix 20mm. Also the board discussion about EM interference is probably not applicable since I was at least 300ft. away from the nearest electrical source. I'd really like to find some answers for this issue; high on my list of reasons to buy this camera was reasonable high-ISO performance (in a small package).
The electrical interference is internal - nothing to do with external sources.
If you're seeing banding with the 12-50mm at 200ISO then either the camera is very hot or it's faulty.
Hiskrtapps: Banding problem is present at any iso, not only 6400 or higher.
High isos only make it more evident.Like exposure time do.Like aperture very close do.
Obviously in optimal conditions problem is not noticeable and disappears.
I tried many long exposures last night and even a lower iso (500) problem was evident while increasing exposure time.
Hope in a fix.
I also discovered just the other night that high ISO isn't the only scenario to bring this issue to the fore. Long exposures and dark conditions do indeed show the same problems, even at ISO400.
I've heard nothing recently - I'm asuming that there isn't going to be a fix. Pity, as it's a great lens otherwise.
James Wages: What's new here? I get banding on that lens with my GF-1 whenever I'm around fluorescent lighting:http://www.flickr.com/photos/66071596@N00/5596989648/in/photostream
It drives me nuts. I too wish there was a fix.
As was pointed out to you months ago this is a completely different issue - your problem is due to the fact that fluorescent lighting changes colour very rapidly, and has nothing to do with the lens other than what shutter speed you end up with as a function of the aperture setting.
Many thanks for a truly excellent guide. One question: how does one access the four "My Modes" ?
On the E-5 this is a simple matter of holding down the Mode button (on the camera's top plate to the left of the pentaprism) and turning the main dial which results in each of the four My Modes being displayed (both in the viewfinder and the Super Control Panel) along with P, A, S, M and B.
This permits very rapid change of shooting Modes each with numerous pre-selected options, for instance: from My Mode 1 aperture priority with IBIS at 1, single auto focus, Noise filter at off and ISO at 100 to My Mode 2 aperture priority with S-AF, NF at low and ISO at 800 or to My Mode 3 shutter priority with continuous auto focus, ISO at 1600 and IBIS off, and so forth
Does the EM-5 have an equally quick means to do the same? In the absence of a Mode button, can this be done only by designating either the left or down arrows for drive mode?
Yes, it's not well thought out at all. I did manage to figure it out, but by the time I next need it I will most likely have forgotten. And they really do need to add the ability to name your modes - they have keyboard code for entering copyright info, so it would be a trivial matter to do. I've already forgotten what I've set modes 2 & 3 for!
Sergey Borachev: Interesting to see this in the list of Pro's
- Very good selection of Micro Four Thirds lens is available.
But even with that significant advantage (which is extremely important for photographers), it still scores less than the NEX-7 (Score 81)
IMO, it should be rated higher as a camera that real photographers want to use than the NEX-7.
Good point - perhaps DPR should have a built-in depreciation of scores, maybe 5% per year.
ayt: regarding this bit on page 3:"Adding just the grip section results in pushing the tripod mount ever further off center."
isn't the tripod mount on the vertical grip about in line with the lens mount? why is it ever further off center?
Hang on, which grip part is which? I'm thinking of them as a half-grip and full grip, or a grip and a battery holder. A centred tripod mount is important to me for use on a panoramic head. I have the grip on order but it's not here yet. Well I guess I'll find out soon enough anyway.
bradleyg5: I wish dpreview would just up and admit that the tilt screens are flat out superior to the tilt and swivel screens. They always have to put some little "however" in the description. "Like all tilt-only screens, though, it adds nothing when shooting stills in portrait format."
How about tilt and swivel screen you put a little text blob that comments how how much smaller the screen is in relation to the area it takes up? Or how about how down right hideous the hinge looks? Or how about you can't tilt the screen up without first swivelling it to the side, thus making it completely indiscreet?
How hard is it to take a self portrait without looking at an LCD screen, just hold it at arms length, point it at your face, and press the button???
Ah, you've fallen into the trap of thinking that everyone wants to use a camera in the same way that you do, which is pretty self-centred. For many of the types of work that I do the lack of a fully-articulating screen is a big problem. I often work close to the ground, and/or with a panoramic head, and in both cases in portrait mode. I will continue to use my E-M5 (I rather like it), but for much of my work I will have to continue to use my E-620 (which is a fine camera, it'll just be inconvenient to have to carry both).