rikkus: The article implies that the author immediately formats the card after import. Please don't do this.
After import, I set cards to read-only and put them in a specific place. Only after I've seen that the on-site backup and both off-site backups are complete do I enable writes on the card and format it.
This is a nice feature of LR .. if you have your external backup drive handy when you offload the image files from the card to you computer. LR will write the files to the external drive as well as to your computer internal drive during the import. I.e., you get your working copies and a backup in one operation. Of course, do some sort of check on both the in-computer and external drive copies before reformatting the card.
tkbslc: Your sample images presume the width of a square and a 16:9 display would be the same. However, generally monitors are priced per area, so a square monitor with the same area as a 16:9 monitor would be 75% as wide, but 133% taller. So your horizontally displayed photos get smaller, but your vertical images get larger. It's a nice compromise, but it also ensures nearly every photo wastes about 1/3 of the screen space instead of half of your photos wasting half the screen space.
The other issue is that movies just look better on a wide format screen. It's not even really a debate. Companies are saving lots of money by converting to all one aspect ratio and that's looking to be 16:9 all the way.
To reinforce what FinDERP said, two monitors is the way to go. There are a lot of reasons to have two monitors and if one must see a portrait image in a large format without scrolling, simply rotate one monitor 90 degrees. Most graphic card drivers support that. It even works if one monitor is smaller than the other. Lightroom supports two monitors! Even if a square monitor were less costly than a pair of conventional monitors, it would not offer the two-monitor benefits.
I'm surprised at the number of negative comments on this article. The author did not claim to be getting great images; he was clearly showing how to extract some images worth making from an environment that is difficult and not conducive to photography. Surely we've all been there (figuratively speaking).
Have you been to Ireland? It's a quite scenic and interesting place. But you can go there for a week or two and not see the sun. So what is an avid photographer to do? Pack away his equipment and spend two weeks visiting Pubs?
The author provides some good advice on how to bring home some decent images should your costly travel net you only cloudy or overcast weather.
Hugo, it seems not widely known that the Canon SL1 has an "s" (quiet) mode. In fact, it's noticeably quieter than the similar mode of my 5DIII. It's also handy to slow down the continuous shooting mode from 4 fps to about 2 fps. That coupled with the 18-55 kit lens makes for a compact and quiet camera.
rtogog: I thought this model just creating another confused to the users. It looks as a DSLR but actually just mimic the shape only. They should bring a expression of new development of technology in digital photography, not just nostalgia of glories of the past on design.
This is new technology. Carry the SL1 around for a few long days of vacation or hiking and you will appreciate the small size and light weight. I dearly love my 5DIII, but I'm really enjoying the SL1 for less critical shooting. I tried the other compact and light weigh alternatives and could not deal with slow shutter release and time consuming set-up. The SL1 not only sets up quickly like any good DSLR, but the touch screen makes it even quicker yet.
save the robots: LENS RECOMMENDATIONS???
I'm strongly considering purchasing this camera based on the info from the review above and the comments. I need to purchase a not so expensive DSLR that can take quality photos and this seems to fit that category. But what should I consider for lenses? I shoot mostly street photography (day and night) and some portraits (indoors and outdoors). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I would suggest getting the kit lens to start with. For $150 (kit vs body only) it's good enough for a lot of what it sounds like you will use this camera for. This lens is small and light and matches the body nicely of less conspicuous and convenient street photography. Then, decide where you want to go with other or better lenses. A 70-300 tele is a good second lens if telephoto is your thing. For sharper images, there is a wide array of fixed focal length lenses including some with image stabilization (cost as much as this camera kit).
NotProfessional: Hello,I just had my EOS Rebel T1i stolen. I was going directly to the T4i, when i heard about this SL1. It's smaller size may be perfect to me.Reading the posts here, one thing i did'nt understand is about the lenses that would fit on the SL1. I have a Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM Autofocus, and i love it.Will the SL1 use it as well as th T4i, or will i have any problem?Like i said, i'm not professional. So, thanks for any help!
The SL1 will accommodate ALL EOS lenses. The 50mm f/1.4 makes a great 80mm (eq) portrait or mild telephoto on the SL1 and of course, is a bit sharper than the kit 18-55 lens.
zonoskar: Again a phone that exhibits this annoying color shading. Why does this only occur in phones and not in any of the compact camera's? How difficult is it to design a phone without this 'featue'? This is the main reason why I almost never get usable pictures out of my Lumia 920 (and other phones).
No sensor actually measures colors properly. There is always a need for a "profile" to adjust the color information provided by the sensor to the true colors. The profile is developed by the phone manufacturer and that's where the colors go awry. Hopefully a calibrated monitor is used to prepare the profile! The bottom line is that the colors are only as good as the profile that corrects the sensor output. I'd guess people like Datacolor are working on an app to fine tune color in the phone. They already have this for pad screens.
I only need Photoshop. I have been paying $11 or less per month for it ($199 for 18 months) since buying-in at 4.0. Now, after 12 months at $10/month, I'll be paying $20/month. That's nearly a doubling of the recent price. This is quite a slap in the face for my loyalty. Needless to say, I'm looking for an alternative and I'm sure new ones will be coming down the pike soon.
Fatality: By the way, to all the people who are planning on buying a new monitor.. Instead of buying one 30" monitor, I recommend getting two monitors in dual-head configuration -one 24" IPS and a second smaller cheap TFT monitor. Keep all of your tools on the TFT monitor (except the color palette) and do all of your processing and color work on the IPS monitor. It's less expensive this way and it's also better on the eyes since you can always turn off the second monitor if you don't need the extra screen real estate, plus you can conveniently adjust the position/angle of the second monitor. I'm using this setup since 2000 for 3D, digital imaging and illustration work, it's working really well for me..
(some advice to novice users) :)
I've used exactly this setup for many years. Having the smaller sRGB TFT monitor allows me to see proper color of sRGB jpegs and sRGB web content and also check sRGB files I produce from RAW AdobeRGB files. My 24" AdobeRGB monitor (older 96% of AdobeRGB monitor) does not have an sRGB mode and switching to that mode on the newer monitor several times each day would seem to be a nuisance
John Ellis: Does it really help for the overwhelming most of us who view our pictures on just average laptops and sharing them on the web or printing them on inkjets that cannot come close to showing all the color? Would certainly be nice if it could be appreciated and I guess in commercial work it might. Am I right?
You are right. Viewing jpegs or images from the internet requires only an sRGB monitor as both are, or should be, just sRGB. Unless you are working with images you expect to print with an AdobeRGB capable printer or a printhouse that accepts them, these monitors are in fact a bit of a nuisance. These may have an sRGB mode as have some other recent Dell monitors, and if they do, you will definitely want to use that mode for viewing jpegs or browsing. Or just buy a good sRGB monitor if you don't do AdobeRGB photo editing and printing.
I was hoping for manual zoom and fast shutter response. Is it just me or do you find the electric motor zoom control frustrating. I gave my G11 to my son because I could not deal with the show shutter response and the rubbery zoom control when trying to photograph my grand kids. Even for walk-around purposes, these two issues would get in the way. The workarounds such as manual focus don't seem to work for me. The Fuji X10 manual zoom looked good but the slower shutter response is still an issue. My walk-around and grand kid shooting is done with a 60D (or my 5DMkII if I'm doing landscape shooting in the same outing).
So, am I missing something here? Must a 60D be my smallest camera?
Thanks for any thoughts.