Jim Salvas: What fun! But, hey, guys, we're also waiting for a test of continuous AF with the E-M1’s new firmware. This would have been a good opportunity.
Olympus documentation does and does not cover a lot of things. Albeit it is irrelevant for this video it still stands, the E-M1 uses PDAF for AF-S with M43 lenses. It is used for initial validation of whether the target distance has changed at all. If it didn't change a bit then you get an instant in-focus and no further (CDAF) focusing procedure is initiated at all (there isn't even a screen contrast change like what happens with CDAF). It doesn't seem to work in all instances, but again, it has been reproduced and is only reproducible within the PDAF area. Search the MFT forum here on DPR.
Nope, PDAF *is* used with MFT lenses. It can and has been reproduced. ;)
It wasn't more or less hybrid before v3, I see no difference in behavior there, at least with non sequential modes. On a side note, the E-M1 even uses limited PDAF in AF-S, it's just not advertised (or even denied).
Well, the implication of higher PDAF burst rate is that PDAF (algorithms) in general must have been improved (in speed). I was not using the E-M1 enough lately (got a D750 for improved AF-C), so I cannot really compare.
The only extensive discussion (or rather ongoing report) I know about is my own "Focusing explained" thread here on DPR. It started with the E-M5 and went on with the E-M1 later.
In short with AF-C (face detection disabled) there are four modes of operation on the E-M1:
1. Good light: PDAF with high fps EVF/screen (CDAF around the PDAF areas with tracking).2. Medium light: PDAF with low fps EVF.3. Medium to low light: CDAF with high fps EVF.4. Low light: CDAF with low fps EVF (can be prohibited by using the "fast" EVF refresh rate setting).
The E-M5 also slows down EVF fps in order to catch more light for its CDAF once light levels turn too low, same as 3. and 4. on the list above. But with PDAF on the E-M1 it happens with higher light levels already.
So the stuttering (aka longer exposure per single EVF frame) is a way to fetch more light. Once the E-M1 switches to CDAF it usually stops stuttering until light levels drop even more.
It's a question of light. The PDAF of the E-M1 needs lots of light to function well, because the PDAF sensor area is small. Once light levels drop down to about "indoors with a big daylight window" it first becomes jerky (drop of Live View / focus frame-rate) and then automatically switches to CDAF. And the user mostly has no control over its behavior (switching).
"the new Nikon COOLPIX P900 is the first COOLPIX compact camera"...
Hehe, they really wrote "compact camera". Maybe my hopes for a real (non tough) "pocket camera" that keeps out the dust from my pockets will come true anytime soon.
Turn on the sub-titles. Not useful, but funny.
D750 Filmmaker’s Kit all right. But without focus peaking I find it really hard to judge focus on the built in screen. Live View (CD)AF is less than perfect light is abysmal, so manual focusing is the way to go. But again, it's really difficult to judge the focal plane during recording without focus peaking.
roughneck1024: wow they made a camera just for that???
Not exactly. My D750 reflects a lot easier from light-sources coming from below than from above. It's reflections of the mirror-box walls, not off the AF sensor. So upside down may or may not resolve "lot of issues". Rather some, sometimes.
Miki Nemeth: The Rodelink will support "transmitting a 24-bit/44.1k signal". I tried to find similar information about the Sony UWP-D and Sennheiser G3 systems, but I found nothing. Maybe I didn't serch too hard.I am eyeing on a Sony $100 ECM-AW4 (having an external mic jack, too) Bluetooth microphone set. Why should I pay four times more for the Rodelink?
44.1 kHz (CD/audio) is a bit strange of a choice when 48 kHz is more common in video (DVD/Bluray).
ealvarez: I just tried multiple number of entries of serial numbers and found
equal or greater than 8802634 are not affected
equal or greater than 3026254 are unaffected
I found Serial number beginning with 8XXXXXX are for cameras that being sold in asia and 3XXXXXX for USA and maybe Europe. I'm just guessing but
Try for yourself
That being said, I get a lot more internal reflections with light from below than light from above. I will have it checked, but in practice am currently more worried about three different lenses being soft on the same side and the cursor controller on my D750 being somewhat badly placed.
We've got 60xxxxx in Germany and mine is in the affected range. I just found the corresponding German support site at Nikon.de, but you can enter the serial number on the US site, too.
You can send it in for free, but it's only half an hour drive away from me and I need other things checked, too. So I will visit them sometime soon or maybe I will have my camera replaced by the dealer (which legally is the better choice).
There is some magic going on...
James F. Kelly: Well done! Love it... want it. Not a criticism but suggestion... I kept wanting Barney and Rishi turn around and shoot the shooter. I wanted to see the rig that was shooting the video and hear the experience of the videographer. I realize that was not the point but would love to see a "making of" vid and very interested in the audio setup.
I'd like to know if the D750 does line skipping for 1080p video? Or does it interpolate down most of its sensor area, except for the black upper/lower 16:9 edges? That makes a big difference in detail resolution and low light noise.
Naveed Akhtar: Thanks for a very useful video review..
Nikon promised better Live View performance, how is the experience!!If there is any quite shutter mode, how was it?If the dynamic range is any better than D610?
Yes, I bought one. Still feeling a bit uneasy about body height (balance with fast zoom lenses), AF spread and quiet mode not being quiet. But the articulated screen and hopefully best in Nikon video are definitive bonuses.
Still CDAF in Live View is the big let-down, especially when you have an Olympus E-M1/5 available to compare (I do).
Manual focus in low light does benefit from Live View, as it makes things visible that you cannot see through the viewfinder anymore. The latter is darker than what you can see with the naked eye, so LV can help.
LV on the D750 can show more in darkness than LV on the E-M1, which means that more sensor area is being used for LV. Knowing that Olympus skips lines during LV means that only part of the MicroFourThird sensor is used, though, so we cannot assume that Nikon uses the full sensor (might or might not).
Live View is good, especially for low light. But CDAF in Live View is pathetically slow and stops working (literally, doesn't even try!) in dim light where my MFT and smaller cameras still focus.
Quiet shutter mode is not quiet, it just delays the mirror slap down.
Dynamic range should be about the same as the D610. Give or take a little at various ISOs. At least when you compare the DPR studio scene and look at DXO graphs. Owners of both cameras might know more about this.
Timur Born: Still waiting for a tough camera with RAW files and as long a reach as possible.
I don't need waterproof, but I need better sealed than what non tough cameras are offering. My LF1 is a dust magnet and both the lens and sensor are full of speckles (visible at tele), especially from wearing it inside pockets (taking "pocket camera" literally). Other than pockets: think beach, playgrounds and ugly weather.
The concert shots were a demonstration that a slow tele can still be better than any of those smartphone cams that need you to stand in the front-row and still get bad photos from. And a LF1 type camera usually still gets into the venue when you're just wearing it in a jeans pocket (not taken serious enough).
They are offering cameras that fit into pockets, but which don't survive the same treatment. Quite silly. So "pocket tough" with longish tele would already please me.
Slow tele zoom is a compromise I am willing to live with. The LF1 is slow at the tele end, but then you mostly use that outdoors in daylight anyway. Fast at the wide end is useful for indoor shots.
And I even once shot the LF1 at an indoor concert from the other side of the largish hall (hold over 12000 people). RAW really helps get out more even from these small sensors.
This should give an idea of how far I was away from the stage (bit closer due to sitting further below):
Still waiting for a tough camera with RAW files and as long a reach as possible.