Lightcapture: Slow news day eh?
Yeah, don't you hate it when they publish camera reviews? DPR, please get back to covering cellphones and drones!
tecnoworld: I'll wait for a 1" sensored waterproof camera with a decently fast lens (2-2.8). Hope it doesn't take too long to come.
"Nikon 1 is already there."- except for the "reasonably fast lens" part. Nikon AW lens range is severely limited.
The kit zoom is f/3.5-5.6, which means the light gathering ability advantage is only about 2/3 of a stop at the wide end.
And at 38-96mm equivalent, that wide end is not wide at all.
The 10mm prime is faster at f:2.8, but 35mm is still way too narrow for this type of camera. And you can't change lenses in the water, so you can either have 35mm or zoom, but not both.
We need this feature in stills, too. A camera that automatically deletes all shots except for the most exciting ones!
No more brick walls, cats, dogs, lawns, kids, relatives, furniture, and "view out of my window" (unless you're in a hotel above Niagara, then you get to save the first two frames. If the lighting is dramatic enough).
This has huge potential!
(And for that CraigsList ad, just use your phone!)
Top Dog Imaging: Lots of detail, "medium format" control of depth-of-field, fine dynamic range, archaic body. ...So?
To tex: I was talking (replying) about a purely technical advantage in DOF control. It does not always translate into an artistic advantage.
Not everybody needs ultra-shallow DOF in their images (i don't), and there are other ways to achieve subject separation.
Matched by 100mm f:2 and the the 85mm f:1.8. Exceeded by the 85mm f:1.2.
FF (35mm) has a significant advantage in DOF control over MF because of faster lenses. IIRC, there are no MF lenses faster than f:1.9, and anything faster than f:2.8 is *very* difficult to find.
BorisK1: What are the 35mm equivalent focal lengths for the front and back cameras, anybody knows?
What are the 35mm equivalent focal lengths for the front and back cameras, anybody knows?
dwill23: nice, but gone are the days you can buy a 128GB mem card for $18 from ebay. They made that a Note-only feature. At least you can still buy an extra battery. I might upgrade to this in Dec (when I can upgrade).
DaveDetroitMid Level Canon SLR shooter
The battery is not removable.
justmeMN: At $1000, this camera must be designed solely for hard core Sony fans. There are many nicer cameras that can be had for less money.
I thought that was RX1, no?
Glen Barrington: I hope the water seal for the charging and connection port is more rugged than the one on my S5, it wore out and broke off after about a year.
Not a big issue for me personally, but I could see that some people would be put out.
If it doesn't, you can always get an inverter. But if you make it a habit to charge the phone overnight, you should dramatically reduce the wear and tear on the connector.
It's got wireless charging.
Mike FL: It is nice to add two modes C1 and C2, but I think Sport mode (and M mode ) are more useful.
Or, just add PASM + Sport mode.
The DOF changes will be hard to see, though they should be there.
But if you look into the lens from the front of the camera, you can see the iris itself very plainly. The ND filter is visible too. With my TG-1, I can hear the click as they snap into place.
Oh yeah, remember a week ago you were asking about TG's combination iris / ND filter aperture?I can confirm: If you power up the camera in bright light while looking through the front lens, you can see it quite plainly. F:2 or no, that hole looks tiny!
They might, or they might not. This year Panasonic refreshed their TS rugged flagship to the model 6 by adding (drum roll... wait for it...) TWO NEW BODY COLORS!!!
That's all they changed from TS-5.
badbob001: I have the TG-3 and my biggest complaint is that the aggressive noise reduction blurs out small details. So instead of trying to fix that or add an option to make NR user-controllable, with the TG-4, they now they just hand us the raw data and expect us to fix it manually. Seriously, they could have easily given TG-3 users much of the same features with a firmware update.
It would had been nice if they added wireless charging so we can near-never need to open the doors and potentially introduce a seal-issue every time.
Right. And before you know it, you end up within an inch of a Nikon AW1, or a Sony RX100 in a Meikon housing.Why is that extra inch important for a dive camera?
When kayaking, climbing, skiing, or swimming, the camera has to stay out of the way to avoid injury. But divers already have a huge pile of gear hanging off then in all directions. They don't deal with fast moving water, don't scramble through dense vegetation.
Why does camera size matter to a diver?
128GB is a lot of space. It's well over 6500 raw captures. If you're diving, the battery will limit you to 300-400 frames per dive, tops. That's 15-20 dives.Something tells me, if you can afford this kind of vacation, an extra $100 for a memory card won't make a huge difference. And for a slightly less impressive trip, a 64GB card might just work.But it's moot anyway, because there's no wireless charging, and that camera door needs to open every 300-400 shots to charge the battery.But your *actual* point was not about the wireless charging at all, was it?Was about o-rings?
Interesting! I never knew how other models make this work. Makes sense. It's not ideal, but better than no control at all.
"My point is there are other reasons to open the door of the battery compartment."I was talking about a very specific situation. As long as you're in a hot, humid place, opening the camera door should be avoided as much as possible.
Haven't you seen the multiple complaints about waterproof cameras fogging up on the inside?
"And move the data from the card to computer wirelessly?"Get a large enough memory card and wait to copy the files until the camera is in an air-conditioned room, or on an airplane. Or use WiFi.
It certainly beats having the *inside* of your lens fog up as soon as you get in the water.
My TG-1 doesn't even have the "A" mode, and it's my main source of frustration with the camera.
Whenever the light gets brighter than a certain level, the camera activates the ND filter, and there's *nothing* I can do to switch it off. Various modes (including sports and snow), any and all ISO settings, any exposure compensation - nothing will shut it off.
The "A" mode should allow me to finally shut off that ND filter at will.
Now that I think about it, I can see how an "S" mode would be tricky with just the three possible aperture values.
Say, you set shutter speed to 1/400 and ISO 200, but the current light levels dictate either f:2.8 1/200, or f:8.0 1/1600. There is no f:4. What should the camera do - ignore your setting? Underexpose? Overexpose? Zoom in to obtain f:4?