groucher: I'm really interested in this camera and was planning to use my ancient Nikon glass on it but I'm totally confused by this article. When using old glass with my D800, I put the camera in full manual mode and use the focus indicator. This is incredibly easy, particularly as the focus indicator is far more accurate than the old split screen method.
Is it that case that the A7's automation prevents a similar method to be used i.e. does automation get in the way? I'm particularly bothered by the use of focus magnification which seems to be an incredibly slow and error prone process, although I have no experience of using it.
I really like this camera for manual shooting. Focus magnification is just a double push of a button away, touching the shutter button disables it. Moving the focusing rectangle around is too much of a hassle, but you don't really need it.
Focus peaking is okay for slower lenses. The EVF is sharp enough to judge focus unless you shoot with f/2 or lower.
I use the camera as a light sealed box with a sensor, a shutter and a light meter and it serves me well.
I'm very, very happy with my A7 combined with my Hexanon AR 57mm f/1.2, same version as in the article. Mine seems to be a good copy, sharper wide open than most of the pics I see online.
Focusing is tricky, but after using it for more than two years (first on my NEX3/5) I'm getting used to it. The slightest movement of my body can cause the eyes to get out of focus (while the eyebrows or the cheeks are razor sharp). The trickyness is what drives me.
Some examples from a retro gaming event last saturday. All wide open@1/60 with Auto ISO (mostly ISO5000 or ISO6400): http://www.flickr.com/photos/lostintheforest/sets/72157640032795904/
the reason: So let me get this straight...If I wanted this camera with the evf, the lens hood, a carrying case, and a (needed) 2 stop nd filter Id need 3900$? And some of you are ok with this??!! That borders on brain damage.Anything you have to compare with a leica M to justify it is ridiculously overpriced to begin with.I dont care if your 30 year old rollei only did 1/500 of a sec, I care that its 2012 and you wanna charge me that much for 1/2000 of a sec.It amazes me how hard some of you are trying to justify this thing...
Please show me a camera with a leaf shutter that can go faster than 1/2000s. As far as I know, they don't exist. At all. 1/2000 is crazy fast for this type of shutter.
Shamael: The RX1 had everyone talking. Look at all comments and you get the point. A camera with FF, 35 mm huge lens, 1/2000 fastest speed, in some way a useless wonder in technology. But, there it ends. Let's not talk about the price. In sight of the quality and make of the lens only, the price is rather cheap. But, if Sony had done this with a retractable zoom, in the 20-50 range and a 4000th speed, a 1500$ pricing, this camera had sold like hell. Not to speak about what had been with ILS.
Let us not ask why Sony has gone that way, making a niche product? It will remain a mystery anyway. Let us just hope that it is an announcer for what many of us wait for. If I consider the price of the lens, the RX1 body is worth 5$.
As far as I can tell it's the fastest leaf shutter *ever*. Even Leica's S lenses with built-in leaf shutters don't go faster than 1/1000s. Most leaf shutters max out at 1/500s.
There were reasons to include a leaf shutter instead of a focal plane shutter:- Silent;- Flash sync across the whole range (try to find a dSLR with 1/2000s sync);- The huge rear element of the lens almost touches the sensor, leaving no room for a focal plane shutter.
codeNsnap: Too bad this converter cannot be used with the new X series 14mm f/2.8-http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/accessories/lens/conversionlens/x100wideconversionlens/index.html
A good converter is an extension of one specific lens design. Generic converters don't offer decent quality.