Hugo808: Why is everyone so excited about this? Its only stand out feature is that it's thin. Big deal, how is that going to affect the handling of a big camera like any EOS? The concept might make sense on a mirrorless as it will slide into a pocket, here it's just a gimmick.
Actually I don't think its a gimmick. The smaller the lens, the more comfortable people feel when they're being photographed, at least in my experience. This translates into nice natural smiles.
As for size it's also helpful when you absolutely don't want to look conspicuous carrying around a large camera, or when you have children and not much room in the rucksack.
My two lenses are the 24-70L and the 35mm f2, both on a 5D. The 24-70 never leaves the house because its just too big for my non-studio shots.
I would love to swap my 35 for this pancake. I'm just a bit concerned that the price is ridiculous in the UK.
iso 3200 looks great!
just put this in an android phone pls someone. I'm looking at you Samsung. Give us the S3 Galaxy with a larger sensor pls!
Paniko: O.T.:the woman many of you define as "Queen" in reality is Mrs. Maria Montessori a woman that the NYT said in 1913 "“The most interesting woman in Europe”.And probably she changed our life long time ago.
p.s. Nice camera :)
I read about Montessori on wikipedia. Interesting. But I have no idea why you posted this here, or why she is connected in your head to the concept of 'queen'?
SimenO1: Nice camera line up - crap lens line up. Whats the point of having slim cameras and 24 Mp if the whole package delivers either crap sharpness? I hope the 2013 snap pancake can deliver the sharpness the other pancake can't. That would make one interessting lens for me. Though, whats the point of having a system camera if only one lens sits on there?
Talking of Sigma etc, I'd love to see Pentax offer some pancake lenses for other mounts.
Nknshooter23: Maybe this is a stupid question but there is still little out there to compare the D700 in low light vs the D800. What I'm wondering is if it is possible to reduce the resolution of the D800 to 12.1 (one third which happens to be the same res of the D700) and group the pixels together to produce 3x the light sensitivity? I know there are Dx & other crop modes which just use the center of the sensor but I want to know if it is possible to increase the light sensitivity and use the whole sensor? Basically run it at "low" res at night and full res when light is not an issue.
afaik that is practically the effect higher res has on noise. That is, at the same print sizes, noise is not worse on higher res cams, sensor tech being equal.It only looks worse at 100% view, and it doesn't get so magnified as that in print, at least not at normal viewing distances. I bet the d800 high iso print will look sames as d4 most times.
Dafffid: The 24-70 we expected, and no surprises, I'm sure it will be lovely. But I've been waiting for a really good 28mm for years: a 28L would have been nice (although unlikely), a 28mm f1.4 would do, or even just an improved 28mm f1.8, one as relatively good as the 85mm f1.8... but no.
I started to agree with DPreview, who are those two primes for? I use my primes for photographing moving people in low light with as shallow DOF as possible, IS is of no use to me whatsoever. But then I read the other comments - of course, video, makes sense now. Still a bummer for an old stills man, but there we go, can't have everything you want in life!
They're also good for the hiker / landscape phtgr without a tripod. Plus C. has to respond to other small options with IS like micro four thirds kits.
I'm slightly disappointed there's no 35mm equiv at launch given the clear success of the X100.
Without a 35mm I'm less interested, and why get the X100 now when we know they'll bring out a 35 equiv in a year or two? I suppose the 18mm would be okay as a stop gap.
I can't believe there's still no ETTL flash control in full manual. The only times I ever use manual with an SLR is when the flash is on ETTL.
I use the camera like this more than 50% of the time for portraits. i.e. set 1/100th to avoid subject motion blur. Set aperture to usually f8 or f11 if there's a group shot or perhaps wider if you think you can pull off the focus successfully. Make sure the iso (usually 200 or 400) means ambient expsoure would be -1 or lower. And like a god, the flash head with take care of the exposure for you. Just plug in +1 if you're bouncing off a ceiling or (prefereably) a corner wall diagonally behind and above you. OF course you always have the option to drag the shutter if subject movement is not an issue and / or using 2nd curtain.
With the G series, well... you'd better just leave it on P or A and 1/60th sec. Such behaviour was ok (although annoying) in the G9 etc because the smaller sensors mean large dof anyway, all the time. G1x = fail imo.
Lampost48: I currently have a Canon G9 which I have used for the past number of years and its been a great workhorse and now considering to upgrade to either a full DLSR or DLSR hybrid like the G1 X. I am a hobby photographer, and I have had the many 35mm cameras plus the associated kit of lenses, filters, flash and lugged them around the world. The G9 is NOT a specialist camera, and was never to designed to be, having said that it does it have extremely good optics, a good sensor and some zoom capabilities, what the G1 X will do is shift the boundary so now it does overlap creating a "grey area" between using a DLSR for "general photography" and a camera that will do exactly the same thing without the associated baggage . I looked seriously at the G12 but in reality, it was a G9 with some improvements. I have taken some magnificent shots. a heap of mediocre and some that I could have done better with a "Kodak Brownie Box camera", but its the photographer, not the camera.
I think you would like using a larger sensor camera. I use a 5d (full frame) and a G9 for snapshots.
While the G9 is okay quality wise - and you can certainly take great photos with an okay camera - the sensor lets it down in situations of high dynamic range. Frequently outside shots with my G9 have harsh highlights, and a course quality not present in larger CMOS sensors. My other big issue with the G9 and similar is user experience. If you try a 1 series camera e.g. at a shop - you'll know what I mean. Beautiful, big viewfinder fills your vision. Shutter button utterly responsive and feels great (not springy and loose like G9). These latter issues are what have pushed me towards leaving the G9 at home more and more and purchasing a small prime (35mm f2) for use as walkabout with the 5D. The X100 from Fuji seems to address these points but with the loss of a massive battery and a hefty price tag. Still the Fuji range to me is interesting.
Do you use the whole of the G9 zoom?
Goodmeme: How about an interchangeable lens/ sensor Android phone?
I mean, I don't expect the latest HTC / Samsung Android to have an amazing lens.
But I am prepared to have a bigger lens than most in my pocket. I would pay £200 or more to have a sensor / lens that equates to 35mm f2.8 that sticks out about 1cm from the phone. My extended battery (Galaxy S) does that anyway lower down so it could work. Especially if the module could be popped in the next upgrade.
How about an interchangeable lens/ sensor Android phone?
Beauiful. With the balloons! It's steampunk-tastic.
increments: re: the RAW vs. JPEG comparisons.
I'm presuming the JPEGs were all OOC. If I'm right about that I suspect there's a lot more detail to be got from them.
Also I'm pretty sure that the colour cast in the example shown could be removed.
While there are inherent limiting factors to processing JPEGs, you can vastly improve on a camera's OOC images. RAWs will be slightly better, but usually the differences are only apparent at quite large sizes (IMHO).
If you only view your images at a typical screen size, or upload to facebook etc. JPEGs are probably sufficient.
Of course the argument exists that if you're prepared to PP you might as well shoot RAW, but it's not mandatory and a lot of people do PP their JPEGs.
I'd love to agree with you. The big fly in the ointment is white balance. Correcting white balance and colour generally is not acceptable with jpeg imo, even for snapshots. I really tried to change my raw workflow to jpeg, but gave up after a day for this reason.
I would love all cameras to use an external wb sensor like E1 and older 1 series cams - or perhaps they could shift AWB more radically when they detect orange in the picture. All I know is my 5D/G9 can't cut it on AWB, and in the heat of the moment, I often forget to change e.g. to incandescent.
@ photo nuts. I agree. It's lovely. I keep wondering whether it has something to do with the closer eye being slightly out of focus - technically usually not ideal - yet still being relatively discernible, and it throws your attention to the other eye and vice versa, and so on indefinitely. It's a real trance - inducing shot!
Plus the look reminds me of my own little nipper :)
Bob Meyer: Anyone who thinks Westfall, or any other Canon official, is going to provide any real information about their future plans doesn't understand Canon, or the camera industry. What do you expect?
@sdyue, 12MP is not high res? Really? My 5d classic is fairly high res in my opinion. Enough for life size portraits on the wall at quite close viewing distances. I can see what you mean about keeping up with market needs, but I wonder whether most people would spot the differences between 12 and 18 or 24MP without pixel peeping?
Knallberto: price in Europe (incl. 20% VAT)
*W3 169€* - 1.220.000 glassless 3D display, 2x 1280x720 video, 2x 10 mp photos
*3D1 499€* - 460.000 non-3D display, 2x 960x1080 video, 2x 8mp photos
Thank you, Pana .... € 499 saved!
if you have two parts of a 3d image, you can save them in the same format as fuji. There's a freeware 3d photo program.
Mtsuoka: I guess Panasonic develop this camera because of the pressure from their 3D TV dept.
...and market demand for 3D!
The Fuji 3d cam is in such short supply it has not made it into UK retail yet afaik.
Cool. I wanted the Fuji one but didn't want to buy without seeing it in action as it was fairly pricey and I've never used a 3d screen before.
I suspect it will take me a few years to replace the TV/monitor with a 3D one but it's nice to know you can shoot 3D without a 3d screen on the camera (for hopefully lower cost & price) or all the gubbins of a 2 camera setup.
jeffharris: User's expectations of exactly what should be included in a small interchangeable lens camera have changed in the time since the GF1 was released.
Sony has led the way with the NEX Series cameras with hi-res, MOVABLE LCD of the NEX-5N and with the NEX-7's additional low-profile body with a hi-res (2.4MP) built-in EVF.
Panasonic (as did Olympus earlier) falls short again, with yet another dated Point & Shoot style body with it's 3 year old tech with fixed LCD, an awkward add-on EVF at a premium price.
Sorry Panasonic, but for a second body to backup my GH2, the NEX-5N is way ahead or I'll take the cheap route with a GF3.
Agree. Although I doubt te quality is an issue for 'actual' photography. What matters to me is they still don't have a small 24mm prime (35mm equivalent). If they did, that would be better than the 20mm PAnasonic pancake for being 35m equiv not 40mm.