Greg Lovern: > The 70-200mm is the first full-frame telephoto zoom to bear Pentax's 'Star' designation <
Not true. It's at least the fourth. The first three were:F* 250-600/5.6 (1988)FA* 250-600/5.6 (1991)FA* 80-200/2.8 (1994)
Touché. You really did want to split hairs, LOL
I caught that too, but if you want to split hairs, they did add the qualifier, "...and features a new 'HD' coating." So technically it is correct.
I'm set for a standard zoom with my FA*28-70, but I'll be interested to see a 15-30~ish zoom. The zoom range is narrow, only 2x, but that means there will be less aberration that needs to be corrected at the ends of the zoom range. Any less range though and it wouldn't be worth the space in my camera bag, might as well carry a prime.
My theory: The K-S1 was such a flop that they finally realized it's no good making cameras that people aren't asking for. Instead they decided to pursue the novel idea of actually making cameras people want and have been asking for for years.
I think they may in trouble financially if they had to resort to making a full frame, but ironically, if done right, this camera might be the camera that saves them.
I hope they find the wisdom to steer clear of the "smaller/lighter is better" mentality. A professional body needs a certain amount of weight to counterbalance large zooms like the two companion lenses announced along with this camera. If users want small, light cameras there are plenty of other options on the market. Full frame glass has to be big, full frame bodies should be sized accordingly.
I am excited to see this camera though, whatever in form it eventually takes.
I don't disagree with the logic here, but it is only one take on the subject. I am a Pentax shooter, and so sadly, I am not troubled by the decision to switch to full frame T_T (although I still regularly shoot film).
I would offer a different take on the subject of focal length, of zooms in particular. I own and love a Pentax FA* 28-70 f/2.8 zoom. Obviously it was originally designed to go from wide angle up to short telephoto, and then there was an FA* 85 to serve as the "ideal" portrait length. I find that when I use the lens on my film bodies (i.e. full frame), I live at either end of the focal range. My shots are either below 35mm or above 60mm. But when I get that lens in the studio for fashion shots on my digital APS-C body, I find it is ideally suited to the task. I can frame a tight headshot at 70mm, and a moment later zoom all the way out to 28mm and get my subject head to toe, all without moving, but I also end up using the entire focal range, not just the extremes.
email@example.com: NFC - for those who don't know (which is probably most of us):
Near Field Communication
Bluetooth and Wi-Fi are similar to near field communication on the surface. All three allow wireless communication and data exchange between digital devices like smartphones wirelessly.
NFC is an offshoot of radio-frequency identification. NFC is designed for use by devices within close proximity to each other.
Thanks, didn't know if this was just a case of technology leaving me behind, or just sloppy journalism. I'm still not sure, but at least I know what NFC means now.
AV Janus: This article is in some strange loop.DPR says see more on cactus page, thaz page shows a few pixs an "view more details" link redirects here??
Where is the info that this supports wireless radio TTL?
Uh, well not really flash exposure comp, it's just remote manual power control. The menu system is built into the V6 base unit though, not the camera. There are four groups A,B,C, and D, and you can adjust each group independently, or adjust all groups together in parallel. (e.g. You might set group A at 1/4th power, and group B at 1/8th power, and group C at 1/16 + 0.3. After a test shot you might decide that the whole setup needs to come up a stop, and with one turn of a dial, you can bring group A up to 1/2, group B up to 1/4th, and croup C up to 1/8th +0.3)You can also turn groups on and off, all from the camera position. This is great if you want to see the contribution of an individual light/group. It even allows the user to make adjustments in 1/10th stop increments if they desire (though it does not force one to do so).
akexandrevision: Nice to see finally a Wireless trigger solution for Olympus & Panasonic cameras however I am still confused on some features on this new Cactus V6.
Firstly, Does this support TTL on my Olympus cameras (OMD-EM1, E-30 and E-P3)?I mean can I set my flashes (FL-50R and Fl36-R) on TTL and shoot on TTL or this is only working in manual mode with full control from the trigger on each single Flashes?
Secondly:Can this transceivers wake up the flash from the sleep mode?
thirdly, what is the maximum Sync Speed I can use on the Transceivers.
I appreciate If someone could clarify these for me, I could not find any thing related to my questions on Cactus website.
It's best to think of the Cactus V6 as a manual flash solution. It just happens to exploit the flashgun's TTL circuitry in order to work it's magic. No TTL data is transmitted from the on-camera unit to the remote units, although you can pass TTL data to a hotshoe mounted flash as long as it speaks your camera's proprietary flash language.
The wake-up function may be system dependent, but it is likely that firing a test flash will bring most flashguns out of hibernation.
The maximum speed the Cactus system will relay a signal is 1/1000th, but you will still be limited by your camera's maximum sync speed.
And since you'll probably ask, the V6 does not support true HSS, but it does have a mode called "sympathetic flash" where the V6 will "chime in" with a burst a few milliseconds after it sees a preflash causing the flash tail to illuminate the shot. This is similar to what PocketWizard calls "hypersyncing".
No, you are not comprehending something. The V6 does not just send a "fire now" command the way ordinary manual triggers do. It sends a "fire now" command, and then the base unit uses predetermined timings to send a "stop firing" command through the TTL circuitry several milliseconds later. That's why it needs to know what kind of flashgun is attached. The result is that the user can control the output of the lights from the camera's position.
Cactus is not the first to try this. Radiopopper uses the same TTL circuitry in the RP JrX system to achieve the same effect, but the controls on that system are not particularly precise or repeatable compared to the Cactus.
It really is a revolutionary system for those who take the time to understand it's potential.
It does not. It supports wireless manual control via old TTL circuitry.
That's weird, I've been using my Metz 58 AF2 with my Cactus V6s for months. I wonder what they added?
Can I please just have my full frame?
Pentax users: "We want a professional full frame!"
Ricoh's Marketing Dept.: "What that you say? You want a hideous monstrosity that looks like we grafted a K mount mirror box on a Sony NEX body and added some neon lights for good measure?"
Pentax users: "No, No!! A professional full frame! We don't see how you could even begin to misinterpret that, there's no way we could be any more clear."
Ricoh's Marketing Dept.: "You sure? It comes in different colors."
Pentax users: "Yes, we're freaking sure!"
Ricoh's Marketing Dept.: "Oh... well how bout an old Q in a new body?"
Pentax users: "NO!! We didn't want that to being with!"
NFG: I've been shooting with these for a month and a half, and they're brilliant. I use them in the studio and on location, with a mix of SB-28, SB-800 and the Cactus RF60. Totally reliable, great range and packed with features.
The Cactus V6 has no idea what your ISO is, though it can pass the information along to a flash connected to the hotshoe. The only command the V6 relays to remote flashes/receivers at the time of exposure is "fire now". It's the receivers that do the math, they tell the flash to turn on for a certain number of milliseconds, and then quench the power at the correct time as determined by the pre-set power level. The quench timings are unaffected by the camera's ISO, but of course that means that the user must work out their own exposures.
In other words, they can't screw up the exposure due to the ISO because they don't deal with that variable.
Anesh Pather: wonder if this will work on an FZ1000 or RX10
It will work on just about any camera with a center pin hotshoe, or a PC sync port. The flashes that you use though will need to support Canon, Nikon or Pentax analog TTL. There is some limited support for digital TTL flashes for those brands, but I think at the moment, the pin layout will prohibit the use of Sony or Panasonic-compatible flash units. Perhaps in the future, but Cactus will need to redesign the hotshoe and foot.
In the mean time however, you can scoop up old analog TTL flashes for next to nothing. The V6 can learn the timings if a profile does not already exist.
Chris43: Why don't they support Sony flashes in the same way as the other makes?I've got a RX10 and a HVLF-58AM, which work well together with the required adaptor, but there is no easy or flexible Sony wireless solution to be able to use the flash off camera.
It's a problem of pin location as much as anything. Cactus had to design a hotshoe foot that had contacts for Nikon and Canon flashes for obvious marketing reasons. Pentax happens to use the same pin locations at Nikon so I think they added Pentax support because they could physically accomplish it with no new engineering.
If you look at the layout though, I don't think they'd have room to include contacts for Sony's triangular pin configuration, and of course the Minolta layout doesn't have the central pin needed to sync to most manual flashes. Maybe once they've recouped their R&D money from the V6s, they'll release a Sony compatible version. They have a suggestions section of their user forums, you should mention it's something you'd like to see.
Michael Meissner: No Olympus or Panasonic support. Sigh..... Also, no Sony support.....
@ Michael MeissnerBarnabyJones is probably correct (I don't own an Olympus to confirm), but mixing manual flash with modern preflash TTL is probably not something that most folks should attempt anyway.
The Cactus V6 is using the old analog quench timings like the Radiopopper JrX, but modern TTL uses a preflash to estimate the proper exposure. The problem is, the camera will see the preflash and make it's judgement, but it won't take into account the extra light that will hit the scene from the manual flashes during the main flash event.
It might be better to use a flash on the hotshoe that has a built-in light sensor, and use it in A (aka Auto/Auto-Thyristor) mode as an on-axis fill flash. That type of flash unit will work with just about any brand of camera.
armandino: it is unclear to me if high speed sink is supported
It has what they call "Sympathetic" High Speed Sync mode. When set to that mode, the receiver will look for the preflash, then wait for a specified duration in milliseconds, and then begin firing the pulses as the curtains begin to travel.
You will still need one HSS flash in the equation (though you can have more), and in the case of Pentax, it will need to be hardwired to the hotshoe, as the camera won't allow you to go above the sync speed if it cannot detect a HSS flash.
Folks need to understand that, although TTL flashes are required for the remote power controls to work, this is not a TTL system, it's manual.
I own a set of V6 transceivers and two RF60 flashes, and they are wonderful. For less than $400 US, I was able to fulfill my life-long dream of not having to walk over to the flash to adjust the power. I guess I'm weird like that.