DimensionSeven: I wonder whether the 16-35f/4 IS will be good for infrared. The 17-40 is, but it lacks sharpness in visible light, esp. in the corners. The 16-35 f/2.8 is a better performer in visible light but has a nasty hotspot in infrared.
No, I'm a Nikon DX shooter currently, but I'm temped to go fullframe not the Nikon but the Canon way.
I wonder whether the 16-35f/4 IS will be good for infrared. The 17-40 is, but it lacks sharpness in visible light, esp. in the corners. The 16-35 f/2.8 is a better performer in visible light but has a nasty hotspot in infrared.
Looks impressively uniquely resolving stopped down! But the details seem to be washed out - is this due to diffraction or postprocessing? :o
spochana: Seem to have a lot of distortion. Any in-camera's correction?
I don't see any obvious distortion besides the perspectivic distortion... :o
Pretty good imo for a direct, shoot-into-the-sun shot like this.But why iso 400? :o
DimensionSeven: I have 1 questions that neither the press release nor this hands on preview answer regarding the new kit lens:
Does the front element rotate while focusing and zooming?
Thank you, DpReview!
Wow thanks! Looks like a worthy entry level kit lens upgrade then. Looks smaller, lighter and takes CPLs at least. Hope it's sharper as well, might get one then.
I have 1 questions that neither the press release nor this hands on preview answer regarding the new kit lens:
shaunly: looks like a real winner here. Good job Sony. The 7R seems great for landscape photographer like myself looking to save weight when we go backpacking. With a few right lenses, I may just sell the D800.
Can't wait for the test results!
I can't see your point. There's no wide angle lens for this system yet. The Sony 16-35f/2.8 is over 900gramms, and you'll be needing an adapter too.A D800 and a 16-35VR would give you more IQ for about the same weight, A D600/610 would be even lighter overall...
Any chance for sample shots on an infrared converted body?
Kodachrome200: the people who keep saying good technique at the point of capture is always the best practice are totaly right and yet completely wrong in the point they are trying to make. Graduated filters are a great example. the argument will run that darkening the sky at the point of capture will give you a cleaner exposure. but... the fact is the best sensored cameras out there have wonderful dynamic range. so what you do is you set up on a tripod you shoot at base iso. if the sky is really bright you might under expose a little bit and you can always take another shot where you expose for the sky so you know you get all the data. this is using good technique at the point of capture. its also keeping in mind what you can do at post capture. it will also allow you to apply your effect in alot more exact way. we have all scene photos where the graduated filter has hit things that were not intended. you have way more control to prevent these things from happening in a way you cant with filters
Blending multiple exposures (esp.with longer exposure times) has it's own backdraws and problems as well. I personally prefer to get the exposure done right in the camera, so that I see the (near) final image on the LCD right in the field.
Hoefie: If I have a 77mm lens, what filter should I get: M, L or XL ?As there is an overlap on all sizes; is the size really the only difference between the four ranges ?
Instead of buying the Cokin Zpro (L) size holder, I'd go for the Lee holder. MUCH better, wider and flexible.
ZAnton: Cokin is a virtual company. I am looking for a place where I can buy their PRO filters (in Germany) for 3 years, and still can not find anything. Neither amazon, nor ebay or any other more or less big shop has their products. Their internet page has not functioned for years (is it now?).So dpreview, please delete these news, so that other people would save their time by reading it and searching these phantom filters.
http://versandhaus-foto-mueller.de/Bought my Z-pros from them this spring. Good price and cheap shipping.
Dear DPREVIEW, could someone please clarify which lens and APERTURE was used for the test shots? I'd like to compare the D7100 non-AA sensor vs the D5200 AA-sensor fine details, but I hardly see any difference. But if it was done at f/8, it would not be a suprise anyways.Do you have a summary anywhere where you describe how your tests are done?Thanks!
4 stops of VR?Is my assumtion correct that this means it's the good old VRII, not the latest VRIII seen in the 70-200 f/4?
The preview indicates the MD-D12 vertical grip, while other sources say the D7100 uses a new grip (MD-D15).
Which one's true?
Rick Knepper: If you want a $100 adapter for the Canon TSE-17mm (sans filters & holder), and wish to use Lee Filter products, here's a clever use of the $35 replacement lens cap for the 17mm and a Lee Filter ring adapter $79.
Hi! Looks great! Have you ever tried this with a Nikon 14-24 perhaps?
Karl Summers: How about something for the Canon 10-22.
For a 16-35 equivalent DX lens the Cokin P system is enough in most cases, unless you stack too many filters (CPL + ND1000 + 3-4 square filters) at the wide end in landscape mode. For those situations the Lee 100mm filter system is more than enough.
tektrader: I have a 28mm nikon PC lens whihc is quite good. But you know what? for doing stitched panoramas, its Too wide.
While this lens may be nice for single shot landscapes and architectural photos. I do 8 shots dual row panoramas and its just too wide.
50-80mm would be awesome for me. Maybe they will do that next? :)
Wow, had a google on that and it looks impressive. Do you think it would be compatible with the Samyang TS 24?
Are these photos really supposed to be 'beautiful'? Not for me, sorry.. The article is nice for beginners, but the illustrations should have been more inspirational.