Thank you all for your kind of words!
I´m Very happy that you like my work with the water drops.
I Wish you all a merry XMas and a Happy new Year !
Here i made a special picture for XMas...
SJN2004: Very nice images, have you ever experimented with Realflow?
Some Years ago i have play with Cinmea4D. I have see some Realflow renderings/animations. They are amazing. But i have no time for such projects anymore.
facedodge: I hadn't considered lowering the power on the flash. Is 1/16000 really necessary? I'd think that fast of an exposure is a bit overkill.
The Flash Duration of 1/16000 is the lowest limit. Here are the splash sharp, but little sprinkles or a falling drop gets some motion blur. So better use a lower settings to reach a duration over 1/20000.
Take a look at this bullet shot. Here i work with over 1/22000 and the pellet gets motions blur. But i can´t get much lower, i need the light.
Wilmar Boer: I happen to have a D700 with a Tokina 100mm macro, a SB800 and SB900 flash.
i just want to experiment with this kind of photography. Is there a method of triggering the flashes without having to buy a +/- $300,- timing unit?
In the beginning i use the HiViz board too. It was a great helper to shutter the Camera. You can capture Basic "Drop on Drop" pictures with this unit. The key to create an Collision is the Drop interval. To set the Drop interval i use a medicine dropper.
-The middle is 10drops per second. With this settings you can create Mushroom. -When the drop intervall go to 6 drops per second. The Results are flyings Disc. -At 15 drops per second, the Results are long hats.
I start this genre without any Technical helping devices. Only a trigger in one Hand and a cup in the other hand. With this i´m able to capture in good times 2 keepers from 10 attempts.
You don´t spend lots of money in an Timing device. When you are able to solder a little transistor circuit. you can built your own device with 50€. You don´t need to write an GUI for the timing device, i know 3 GUI for free. They can Control up to 3 Valves .
AV Janus: Output power or flash time duration lower than 1/16000? What is it?
Output power is easy to adjust with some filter but flash duration time is different...
The lower you set the power on the flash, the Flash duration gets Higher. This is the reason why High-Speed Photography works only with lower power settings of the flashes . I use 1/16- 1/64 on my Vivitar 285.
cariboujones: Great post/images. I'm more familiar with Corrie White and she has a more in depth tutorial on her blog at 500px that's a great read: http://500px.com/blog/161/how-to-get-started-in-water-drop-photography
Yeah, Corrie is an great Artist too! I like her Pictures.
BTW:Here are an Behind the Scene Video of my work, you can see my processing of the images too.
Benarm: very clever, great use of A77's superior frame rate
Thats right, all are single captures, freeze by the light.Without Timming device, it´s nearly impossible to create such complex images with water drops.
Mssimo: He forgot to talk about the 2 hours of POST on each image.
No, i don´t forgot to talk about post processing. There are only some basic adjustments. The processing of an images takes about 5 min.
In this Video i show my post processing...
Airless: I don't get how the short flash duration makes sharp pictures. Doesn't the shutter stay open even after the flash ends?I have heard of 1/8000 shutter speed but not 1/16000.
The images are freeze by the flashes. The Shutter speed higher then 1/20000 is necessary to freeze the fast movement in a sharp image. I use a shutter speed of 1/160, but only for my wireless trigger.
NancyP: For strobes, light output per unit time is constant. The "power" fraction of the particular strobe varies the length of time the strobe flashes. Full power = longer duration of the flash. 1/16 or 1/32 power = shorter duration (full power time x power fraction). Of course, one sets up one's strobes such that one don't get unwanted bounce from background, and shoots in a dark room.
I don´t need to shoot in dark rooms. With an aperture of F16 the images are pitch black without the flashes!
NancyP: WOW. Markus, This is just fabulous. Your home-built apparatus plus your aesthetic sense has produced some great, and unusual, photos. Doc Edgerton would be proud of you! For those who don't get the reference, Edgerton of MIT pioneered photographic use of strobe light http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harold_Eugene_Edgerton
For those who like insects in flight, there's another macro expert with his own home-built interrupted laser beam triggered PORTABLE setup. See the flikr account of fotoopa http://www.flickr.com/people/fotoopa_hs/ and Fred Miranda macro forum http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/780820/15 for
Thank you Frans!You know i´m a huge Fan of your Work !