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Specific image quality issues

As always, our studio tests are backed up by taking hundreds of photographs with the lens across a range of subjects, and examining them in detail. This allows us to confirm our studio observations, and identify any other issues which don't show up in the tests. The Sigma 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 OS Macro turned out to be a reliable performer when used on the Canon EOS 650D, consistently delivering decent image quality.


The 18-250mm Macro, like many complex zooms, can be quite susceptible to flare when shooting into the light. Place the sun in the corner of the frame and you'll get a diagonal pattern from internal reflections that gets progressively more intense and better-defined on stopping down, along with a 14-ray star pattern from the 7-bladed aperture. (In the example below you can also see some radial red-green-blue patterning around the sun, but this tends to be rather camera-dependent.)

18mm, F22, sun in corner of frame 73mm, F8, sun just outside frame

In the second example you can also see flare from pointing the camera into the light, such the sun is just outside the frame. The Sigma's not done terribly here (no other superzoom is likely to do much better), and in any case this kind of flare can often be mitigated by watching out for it in the viewfinder, and shielding the front element from the light with your hand if necessary.

Background blur ('bokeh')

One genuinely desirable, but difficult to measure aspect of a lens's performance is the ability to deliver smoothly blurred out-of-focus regions when trying to isolate a subject from the background, generally when using a long focal length and large aperture. This lens can allow you to achieve quite substantially blurred backgrounds, especially at longer focal lengths and large apertures.

The 18-250mm isn't doesn't provide the prettiest-ever rendition of out-of-focus areas, but isn't massively worse than other lenses in its class either. For close-ups the bokeh is quite acceptable, with reasonably smooth blurring of the out-of-focus regions. More distant backgrounds, however, can look quite 'busy', with doughnut-like, hard-edged point highlights.

Close-up Bokeh
Distant Bokeh
250mm F6.3 155mm F6.3
Background detail, upper centre Background detail, lower left

Chromatic aberration

The 18-250mm, like pretty well all superzooms, shows significant lateral chromatic aberration at each end of the zoom range. This is visible as strong red/cyan fringing towards the edge of the frame at wideangle, and green/magenta fringing at telephoto. In the middle of the zoom range there's scarcely any CA visible at all. The two extremes are shown in the examples below; the fringing is is accentuated in the telephoto shot as it's out-of-focus, making it more diffuse.

18mm 250mm
F8, Canon EOS 650D F6.3, Canon EOS 650D, ISO 100
100% crop, top right (JPEG) 100% crop, upper left (JPEG)

Lateral CA can be removed pretty effectively in software if necessary. Most current and recent Nikon DSLRs will automatically correct it in their JPEG output, too, but unfortunately Canon SLRs won't (their lens correction options only work with Canon's own lenses).


Like most superzooms, the Sigma 18-250mm Macro suffers from more than its fair share of distortion - barrel-type at wideangle, and pincushion through most of the rest of the zoom range. Note that because it's a third-party lens, the distortion correction functions built into modern SLRs won't work with it, as the required profiles are only available for the manufacturers' own lenses.

The Sigma's distortion is relatively complex in character, and this means that it's relatively difficult to correct completely in software, unless you use a program like DxO Optics Pro, or Photoshop's Lens Correction Module, that uses specific profiles for each individual lens. This is illustrated in the examples below - the corrected versions use Photoshop's generic distortion correction routines, and lines along the edges of the frame aren't perfectly straight (although they're a lot better than the originals).

18mm (barrel)
18mm corrected in PS
73mm (pincushion)
73mm corrected in PS


The 18-250mm's 'Macro' tag hints at its class-leading close-up performance, which provides a bit more flexibility compared to other superzooms. It can focus very close indeed, to the extent that if you shoot with the lens hood attached it will end up just 4cm away from your subject, and can easily block out the light.

There's another catch for macro work, too. Like almost all image stabilization systems, Sigma's OS becomes progressively less effective the closer you focus. This means you still need to keep shutter speeds up quite high to get properly-sharp images, and therefore will often need to use high ISOs (at least if you're not using a tripod). With the high ISO capabilities of modern DSLRs you can still get pretty decent results this way.

1/250sec F8 ISO 3200 (EOS 650D) 100% crop
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Total comments: 8

I've had one now for over a year. I love the zoom range, the compactness and weight. It suits my general use photography very well. There are times it is not as sharp as I would like it to be, but there are times I am not as sharp as I would like ME to be. I know I will add a Nikon lens to my kit just for those shots that I feel require greater sharpness, but for now, this lens is fantastic.

The only somewhat bothersome thing is the lens creep when carried nose down. I wish the lock button worked in any zoom position.

Very happy after a year and a half.


I think the Sigma is a very sharp third-party lens, and exhibits this throughout its focal length. It doesn't compare to the sharpness delivered from a prime lens, naturally, but it is impressive, given that these sorts of zooms tend to deliver results that fall on the soft side. This sharpness is maintained across the frame, and is the most evident when shooting between the aperture range of f/4-f/11.

1 upvote
Ernie G

I too found the zoom creep a pain - but I have overcome the problem by simply placing a wide rubber band around the lens at the zoom ring. I know its not very professional but believe me it works.

1 upvote

Can somebody (staff or readers) confirm that the OS on this lens is running *constantly* regardless of the switch being on or off? I purchased one yesterday after using the older 18-200 (where it engages the OS on focus and disengages after a few seconds) and I feel irritated that this is constantly drawing power from the battery. I want to know if this is the intended behaviour or an error in my unit.

Comment edited 1 minute after posting

Good overall performance for me.A bit heavy but it beats the snot out of the Tamron 18-200 I owned for an entire week, Really, should you see lens softness in a viewfinder? Mind you, the 18-200 Sigma and Sony were no better than the Tamron in similar test shots. Keep it simple: Take a few shots wide open in broad daylight with a chrome bumper or metal power lines in the estreme left and right frame then have a close look. You will notice CR at the edged way more than you will notice some barrel distortion across a photo of a lake.

Slartibartfas builder of fjords

I purchased this lens a few days ago and use it with a Nikon D7100. In general it is a great lens, but I find it worse than the review suggests in 2 aspects, namely:

1. zoom creep is bad. If you like to carry the camera over your shoulder, you need to always use the lock button. Although that button is nice to have, it sometimse gets in the way of taking a quick shot, because you first have to fiddle with it to unlock it.

2. I find vignetting worse than advertised. Although I am sure that the test results are accurate, I found that many of the pictures I took at various apertures and focal lengths have darkened corners.

apart from that, and especially for the money, this is still a great buy.


Hello sir.
Just 4 days before I purchased this lens for my nikon d 7100 camera.
Is it compatible to get great picture quality.
Pls suggest ur experience.


I recently used this new lens on a holiday to Cairns. It was great not having to stop to swap lenses whenever i wanted to shoot something further away/close up. Agree it is not a perfect lens in all situations, but shooting between f8 and f 11 gave reasonable sharpness, boost your iso so that your shutter speed is fast too when zooming out.
I used it on a pentax k5.
I had a simple Nikon camera to use on days when I did not want to take my dslr with me and found having the choice really good.

Total comments: 8