Bird thread - with Canon FF camera's

Started 7 months ago | Discussions
stickpointed
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Re: Bird thread - with Canon FF camera's
In reply to NewForce, 7 months ago

Geese on approach

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NewForce
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Re: 1DX and EF 500L f4 IS
In reply to TimR32225, 7 months ago

TimR32225 wrote:

Here are a few bird photos from this weekend. This was my first time out this season.

Click on the images for a larger view.

What can I say? Tim, your birding shots simply remarkable and belong to pro grade.

BTW, what software do you to process them and with what process flow?

I'm using Canon very own DPP to process all my shots with some lift in shadow and contrast, moving raw histogram curve near the dark pixels. I am wondering how your work flow and hope you can shared with me. Many thanks in advance.

Great Egret: 1/2500 @f4.5, iso 800

Tricolor Heron: 1/640 @ f5, iso 1250

Great Egret: 1/3200 @f5, iso 800

Roseate Spoonbill in flight: 1/2500 @ f4.5, iso 800

Snowy Egret: 1/1250 @ f5, iso 800

Roseate Spoonbill: 1/4000 @ f5.6, iso 800

Great Egret displaying: 1/1600 @ f5.6, iso 400

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Kenny

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NewForce
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Re: 1DX and EF 500L f4 IS
In reply to momartz, 7 months ago

momartz wrote:

Very nice shots momartz. Thanks for sharing them here.  

My contribution...

Also 1DX; 500mm f4 II (hope the exif is visible).

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Kenny

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NewForce
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Re: Bird thread - with Canon FF camera's
In reply to ejcruz, 7 months ago

ejcruz wrote:

Rainbow Lorikeet captured with 6D in my backyard.

It look fantastic. This is the first time I've ever see such Lorikeet ( didn't even know it existing). Thank you very much for sharing it here.

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Kenny

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NewForce
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Re: Bird thread - with Canon FF camera's
In reply to NewForce, 7 months ago

Accidentally found this lovely Nightjar rest on a lower branches somewhere in a unaware wood place at Singapore Pasir Ris Park.

Iwas attracted by Yellow Oriole at first. Just when I step in this unaware wod place, this bird was jumping from branches to branches in front of me when. Due to I was against the sunlight, I didn't aware what breed it was until she finally rest on one of the tree lower branch.

Still not sure which type was it. Was it an Arabia Nightjar or European Nightjar or others?

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Kenny

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jemwrly
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Re: Bird thread - with Canon FF camera's
In reply to NewForce, 7 months ago

Nice images in only two months of training !!

I like "birding" too, always looking for large zoom for reaching birds details ... but, sometimes,  I like don´t forget the  context / habitat looking for the beauty of a scene, and forgetting  the details of the bird !!

Regards,

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www.seistam.net

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TimR32225
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Re: Kenny
In reply to NewForce, 7 months ago

Thanks for your generous compliment, Kenny.

I try to get it right in the camera a much as I can, but when a photo needs editing, I do most of it within Adobe Camera Raw. Since so many features have been added to ACR in the last couple versions, I usually find it unnecessary to do much if any editing in Photoshop itself. The software I am using is Photoshop CC.

I tried DPP years ago, it was slow and lacked features, so I stuck with Photoshop. Since I'm perfectly content with Photoshop, I don't feel it's worth revisiting DPP. But before discussing software, first some basics about capturing the image...

The most important thing is to get the exposure as close to perfect as you can in the camera, so little if any editing is necessary. Understanding exposure and using the exposure mode that gives you the best chance for consistent success is the key.

I shoot raw, and almost always shoot BIF in full manual exposure mode, because it's the easiest and most consistent.   In manual mode, the camera will not adjust the exposure if the brightness of the background changes, like it does if you are shooting Av or Tv. This is why there are a lot of frustrated bird photographers shooting Av or Tv. If a bird flies from a blue sky to a background of darker trees or water, you are dead in Av or Tv because it's very difficult to adjust exposure compensation quickly enough and still get he shot, and the difference between those 2 scenarios is about 2-stops. In manual exposure mode you just shoot away because your exposure is correct no matter the background.

On a typical day with blue sky, you want to meter off the sky and choose shutter, aperture and iso settings that cause the exposure meter in your viewfinder to register +1. You can adjust slightly if necessary after a couple test shots. It can be any combination of the three, but be sure to choose a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action, and an aperture to give adequate depth of field. I typically like a shutter speed of 1/2500 or higher for BIF but it can be less with slower birds. I typically shoot with an aperture about 1 stop from wide open, but sometimes I shoot my 500 f4 wide open at f4. If you are shooting a slow lens like the 400 f5.6, I suggest shooting it wide open.

I like to use a flash and better beamer to throw some light on the underside of the bird. I seldom shoot bursts because I find that good timing is better than the spray-and-pray approach that some use. Also, your flash does not recycle fast enough to fire on consecutive shots in a burst anyway. There are times when a burst is appropriate, but you can't really do it effectively when using flash unless you are using a quantum-turbo external flash battery. But why I don't do that is a story for another time.

There is not any specific workflow I follow, but here are a few typical practices I may use when needed. If a photo is under or over-exposed, I will correct that in ACR, along with possibly some tweaks to shadows and highlights, if needed. If you have to raise shadow detail more than a little, you may find it useful to move the 'clarity' slider to the right to restore any crispness you lose by raising the shadow detail. I also check for color casts and adjust the white balance if necessary. It's important that you do your editing on a calibrated monitor.

I typically also view the image at 100% and set the amount of sharpening (and if necessary) add a little noise reduction. If any one color in the image is too strong or weak, you can raise or lower the saturation or luminosity of individual colors in ACR. I hardly ever make that adjustment but occasionally I might. All of this is done inside Adobe Camera Raw. When finished, I convert the image and open the JPG. Usually it does not need further editing in Photoshop, but sometimes I check shadows/highlights again, and tweak if necessary. I also double check for color casts and make one final observation on exposure level. Occasionally I find it beneficial to raise the exposure a little bit more and finally safe the JPG.

I'm not sure if any of the software talk is relevant to you (if you are using DPP). But the tips on how to set the camera should be helpful.

Good luck, and thanks again for your kind compliment on the photos.

If you care to, you can see lots of my wildlife photography on birds and other animals, on my photo blog here: http://timrucciphotography.blogspot.com/

Tim

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 TimR32225's gear list:TimR32225's gear list
Canon EOS 7D Canon EOS-1D Mark IV Canon EOS-1D X Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM Canon EF 500mm f/4.0L IS USM +11 more
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Schwany
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Re: with 1DX
In reply to NewForce, 7 months ago

NewForce wrote:

Very nice shots Schwany. Thanks for your sharing.

Like you, I don't know much about birds photography. Your 1DX with 500mmx2 1000mm and 600mmx2 1200mm shots certainly are with great sharpness even with the 2x extender and indeed great pair to use for taking small irds pictures.

I was kidding about not knowing much about bird photography. It aint rocket science. Just enjoy yourself and don't think about all the expensive stuff. A 400f/5.6L in the right situation is just about as sharp as a 600f/4.

How wish I am to have the same setup. Think I'll need to speed up my new business as soon as possible and hope it'll bring me my first bucket (and many to follow on :-D) of gold.

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Kenny

 Schwany's gear list:Schwany's gear list
Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II Canon EOS 5D Mark II Canon EOS-1D Mark IV Canon EOS-1D X Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM +14 more
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NewForce
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Re: Kenny
In reply to TimR32225, 7 months ago

TimR32225 wrote:

Thanks for your generous compliment, Kenny.

I try to get it right in the camera a much as I can, but when a photo needs editing, I do most of it within Adobe Camera Raw. Since so many features have been added to ACR in the last couple versions, I usually find it unnecessary to do much if any editing in Photoshop itself. The software I am using is Photoshop CC.

I tried DPP years ago, it was slow and lacked features, so I stuck with Photoshop. Since I'm perfectly content with Photoshop, I don't feel it's worth revisiting DPP. But before discussing software, first some basics about capturing the image...

I don't have either copy of Adobe you've mentioned here. Btw, do they have lens profile for the 17-40mm F4L IS, 24-105mm F4L IS, 70-200mm F4L IS, 40mm F2.8, 50mm F1.4, 85mm F1.8, 100mm F2.8L IS Macro lenses?

I've used Canon DPP extensively as it offer almost all Canon lens profiles and can be download fairly easy and immediately for any lens peripheral illumination & chromatic aberration correction in camera or in DPP.

The most important thing is to get the exposure as close to perfect as you can in the camera, so little if any editing is necessary. Understanding exposure and using the exposure mode that gives you the best chance for consistent success is the key.

I shoot raw, and almost always shoot BIF in full manual exposure mode, because it's the easiest and most consistent. In manual mode, the camera will not adjust the exposure if the brightness of the background changes, like it does if you are shooting Av or Tv. This is why there are a lot of frustrated bird photographers shooting Av or Tv. If a bird flies from a blue sky to a background of darker trees or water, you are dead in Av or Tv because it's very difficult to adjust exposure compensation quickly enough and still get he shot, and the difference between those 2 scenarios is about 2-stops. In manual exposure mode you just shoot away because your exposure is correct no matter the background.

On a typical day with blue sky, you want to meter off the sky and choose shutter, aperture and iso settings that cause the exposure meter in your viewfinder to register +1. You can adjust slightly if necessary after a couple test shots. It can be any combination of the three, but be sure to choose a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action, and an aperture to give adequate depth of field. I typically like a shutter speed of 1/2500 or higher for BIF but it can be less with slower birds. I typically shoot with an aperture about 1 stop from wide open, but sometimes I shoot my 500 f4 wide open at f4. If you are shooting a slow lens like the 400 f5.6, I suggest shooting it wide open.

I agreed, fully manual mode was key to more success BIF, especially for those birds feeding their baby which nesting at or in a tree branch hole.

Recently I've been shooting with a bunch of Canon & Nikon super telephoto lenses photographers (around 20~30+ people). Most of them are either using Canon 1DX, 1D3, 5D3 and Nikon D4, D4s with 400mm F2.8, 500-600mm F4 and even 800mm F5.6 lenses. Even their camera's was having more advance metering system, speedier AF and FPS speed, they still preferred to use fully manual mode and manual pre-focus. Any attempt using AV or TV modes, most likely lead to under or over exposured shots which frustrated them. Even with everything in manual 10-12 FPS, they still have to shot the Coppersmith Barbet or White Collared Kingfisher feeding their baby bird all day. This is due to a beautiful shot with wing expanded flying angles only available when it near the nest (in a tree branch hole). In addition, the shot with additional eye contain sparkling light was even harder to get.

One thing I did noticed was, after the end of each long day shooting, my 6d shutter count increases by 500~700 shutter counts. For those who's with 1DX and D4/D4s are at even much higher shutter count around 2000++ shutter count.

Btw shooting above 2 small birds are really tricky. 400~600mm FL lenses at close distance (around 10~12 meters), pre-manual focus, aperture at F4 wide open and still get enough DOF to cover the whole bird are even tricky. So most of the people I'm shooting together was using F5.6~F8.

I'm not absolute sure about others settings, shooting the 2 birds mentioned above with my 6D and the Tamron 150-600mm F5-6.3 lens, I've set my ISO at auto or 320/6400, shutter speed at 1/2000~1/3200, aperture F5.6~9.0, pre-manual focus somewhere around the tree branch hole. With below shots, I've believed I am still has a lots to learn in BIF shots.

I like to use a flash and better beamer to throw some light on the underside of the bird. I seldom shoot bursts because I find that good timing is better than the spray-and-pray approach that some use. Also, your flash does not recycle fast enough to fire on consecutive shots in a burst anyway. There are times when a burst is appropriate, but you can't really do it effectively when using flash unless you are using a quantum-turbo external flash battery. But why I don't do that is a story for another time.

There is not any specific workflow I follow, but here are a few typical practices I may use when needed. If a photo is under or over-exposed, I will correct that in ACR, along with possibly some tweaks to shadows and highlights, if needed. If you have to raise shadow detail more than a little, you may find it useful to move the 'clarity' slider to the right to restore any crispness you lose by raising the shadow detail. I also check for color casts and adjust the white balance if necessary. It's important that you do your editing on a calibrated monitor.

I typically also view the image at 100% and set the amount of sharpening (and if necessary) add a little noise reduction. If any one color in the image is too strong or weak, you can raise or lower the saturation or luminosity of individual colors in ACR. I hardly ever make that adjustment but occasionally I might. All of this is done inside Adobe Camera Raw. When finished, I convert the image and open the JPG. Usually it does not need further editing in Photoshop, but sometimes I check shadows/highlights again, and tweak if necessary. I also double check for color casts and make one final observation on exposure level. Occasionally I find it beneficial to raise the exposure a little bit more and finally safe the JPG.

I'm not sure if any of the software talk is relevant to you (if you are using DPP). But the tips on how to set the camera should be helpful.

Good luck, and thanks again for your kind compliment on the photos.

If you care to, you can see lots of my wildlife photography on birds and other animals, on my photo blog here: http://timrucciphotography.blogspot.com/

Tim

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Yes, using flash will be a pain for BIF burst shots. So far I have not think about venture with it for my BIF shots.

Lastly, I've believed with your extensive explanation in various shooting experiences in gears and software, they will surely benefit me in more success shots on my journey into BIF photography.  Thank you very much Tim.

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Kenny

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NewForce
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Re: with 1DX
In reply to Schwany, 7 months ago

Schwany wrote:

NewForce wrote:

Very nice shots Schwany. Thanks for your sharing.

Like you, I don't know much about birds photography. Your 1DX with 500mmx2 1000mm and 600mmx2 1200mm shots certainly are with great sharpness even with the 2x extender and indeed great pair to use for taking small irds pictures.

I was kidding about not knowing much about bird photography. It aint rocket science. Just enjoy yourself and don't think about all the expensive stuff. A 400f/5.6L in the right situation is just about as sharp as a 600f/4.

How wish I am to have the same setup. Think I'll need to speed up my new business as soon as possible and hope it'll bring me my first bucket (and many to follow on :-D) of gold.

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Kenny

Oic.. you've got me anyway.

Anyway, I've set my target for greater and in-depth BIF. It might take years to achieve though.

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Kenny

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