The worst thing about the V1...

Started 5 months ago | Discussions
MPg1
Forum MemberPosts: 80
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to camerosity, 5 months ago

Hello, I once made some shots of the moon with a supertele and FT1, with my V1.

The shots came out great, but I wanted to focus manually and it was impossible as the bright lunar disk in the black surrounding field was rendered completely overexposed in the finder/display. This is probably related to the different exposure you get pointing at the lightbulb: with AF the camera probably gives priority in exposure to the focused area. I seem to remember that I could get a useful moon image in the display in a different occasion and it was probably with AF engaged.

As a side note, i find MF rather difficult, even enlarging the central portion of the image. I think the same information is spread over a bigger portion of the display, but you can't dig into the pixels while focusng. With my D300 it's another story, when I enlarge in live wiew I really can get to the pixels and MF is at its best. I realize it's a camera in another class, but It would be nice to have it on the 1 camera, and not that difficult for nikon to give us.

Marco

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to Paul Pasco, 5 months ago

Paul Pasco wrote:

samfan wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

But I think one mistake some people are doing is that they wait for the display... The thing is, if you wait for the display to readjust the bias for the new situation then you are losing time.

I just tried it. In my room, when I point V1 at my desk, it's 1/30 at ISO 3200. When I point it at the lightbulb, it's 1/125 at ISO 200. The camera indeed takes 3 seconds to set the proper exposure after I point it to the other direction. And if I snap a picture, it takes the image at incorrect exposure.

But I bet you have the AF on... Yes, with AF it takes 2-3 seconds, but in any case, I have not been able to take incorrectly exposed image, doing exactly the same test, only in my test when I aimed at the light bulb it gave me 1/4000s and ISO100, aimed at some books gave me 1/15s and ISO3200.

I now tried my D200, D600 and Samsung EX1 and they all react immediately, although the D200's matrix metering appears to be more sensitive so the shutter speed changes a lot as I move around the composition with the lightbulb. But pointing to the dark changes the exposure instantaneously.

I only know that the D300s required the same time as the V1 in my tests before. Now I don't have the d300s any more so I can't repeat the test. The V1 needs 1 second to get the exposure right if you don't wait for the display. The display takes a bit more time.

This might be an issue for photographers who shoot continuous action, because V1 is also slow to set the exposure in continuous shooting. If you follow some action from a brighter to darker area, you may end up with under- and overexposed pictures.

I'm not particularly bothered by this in the case of V1 (which is why I didn't realize it until now) but it's definitely one of those things to be aware of.

I don't think this is an issue in real life.

This morning I aimed the camera at a wall in a normally lit room and then aimed at a window and shot. The resulting shot was overexposed.

I can't for my life imagine how you manage this. I just tried to repeat this but I can't. My camera won't over or underexpose.

No matter if I aim outside, take a shot and quickly move the aim to the floor, where I threw a few pens just for reference and to have something to focus on, or if I do it in reverse order, I still won't get the over or underexposure problem.

It's terrible fog here, so I can't get better exposure span, but still the span is quite good. It is two seconds between the images and that's about what it takes to move the aim and to press the shutter release again. Yes, the display LOOKS too bright or too dark (depending on the order) but the exposure is right and even the display quickly changes if the shutter release is pressed.

When I repeated this but waited 2 seconds, the shot was properly exposed.

...but what you mean by this? It takes two seconds for the camera to expose, focus and stabilize the image in this situation but I really don't know what you mean by "waited 2 seconds". How fast can you take the image otherwise? I mean, two images, not holding down the shutter release in between, because of course, if you aim at the wall, half press AND hold and then recompose the image will be overexposed, but that's not a camera error, it is a user error. You MUST release the shutter between the shots.

I did the reverse aiming at the window first and then at the wall which resulted in under exposure. I repeated this several times with the same result. There is definitely a lag in metering and I definitely have AE release set to off.

In fact, I begin to suspect that you, and a few others are holding the shutter release when doing this test.

Your V1 must work differently than the rest of ours

No, but I think we use it differently. Here are two more shots from yesterday. Also with the EXIF. This time the difference is three seconds, but the span is huge...

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to MPg1, 5 months ago

MPg1 wrote:

Hello, I once made some shots of the moon with a supertele and FT1, with my V1.

The shots came out great, but I wanted to focus manually and it was impossible as the bright lunar disk in the black surrounding field was rendered completely overexposed in the finder/display. This is probably related to the different exposure you get pointing at the lightbulb: with AF the camera probably gives priority in exposure to the focused area. I seem to remember that I could get a useful moon image in the display in a different occasion and it was probably with AF engaged.

No, your problem is related to the way live view is working and to the fact that you had too high intensity difference between bright and dark parts of the LCD image. The live view implementation is not that great, but manual focus on the moon isn't that difficult if you zoom in on it.

As a side note, i find MF rather difficult, even enlarging the central portion of the image. I think the same information is spread over a bigger portion of the display, but you can't dig into the pixels while focusng. With my D300 it's another story, when I enlarge in live wiew I really can get to the pixels and MF is at its best. I realize it's a camera in another class, but It would be nice to have it on the 1 camera, and not that difficult for nikon to give us.

My experience is the opposite. Live view works generally better on the V1 than the D300s or the D800, especially in manual exposure modes. The D800 display is totally dark unless the exposure set matches the available light, which makes the use of flash very difficult in dimly lit rooms. This is not the case with the V1 due to the auto gain. I prefer the V1 live view.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
myzel
Senior MemberPosts: 2,040Gear list
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to camerosity, 5 months ago

Just retested it - never had a real world problem with the slow Matrix Metering - and I agree, the Matrix Metering takes some time to adjust to a new light situation.

As soon as the EVF is right the exposure is right. I guess that's why I never had a real world problem since I like to frame my images and without seeing (due to white or black out of the EVF) framing isn't possible. This behavior makes very quick snapshots between extremely different light situations impossible.

The solution is to use spot metering or centre weighted metering. In this modes you will get the right exposure even if the EVF is still blacked or whited out.

 myzel's gear list:myzel's gear list
Nikon 1 V1 Nikon 1 Nikkor 10mm f/2.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 18.5mm f/1.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 32mm f/1.2
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
myzel
Senior MemberPosts: 2,040Gear list
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to olyflyer, 5 months ago

olyflyer wrote:

I can't for my life imagine how you manage this. …

switch to Matrix Metering

 myzel's gear list:myzel's gear list
Nikon 1 V1 Nikon 1 Nikkor 10mm f/2.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 18.5mm f/1.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 32mm f/1.2
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to myzel, 5 months ago

myzel wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

I can't for my life imagine how you manage this. …

switch to Matrix Metering

OK, here it is once again, this time Matrix is used and in fact, the exposure is even better...

Two seconds between exposures, no matter if I go from bright to dark or the opposite, so I really don't understand how people can get under or overexposed images in these situations, unless they lock the exposure through holding the shutter release button.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to myzel, 5 months ago

myzel wrote:

Just retested it - never had a real world problem with the slow Matrix Metering

Me too, I just tested it (AGAINĀ  ) and...

- and I agree, the Matrix Metering takes some time to adjust to a new light situation.

...it takes as long as any other metering.

As soon as the EVF is right the exposure is right.

You are making the same mistake and confuse the EVF/LCD display lag with the exposure lag. You don't need to wait for the EVF/LCD, the camera will expose right anyway, even if the EVF/LCD is too dark or too bright. The display is NOT connected to the exposure, though of course, if you wait for the display to be right the exposure will also be just right.

I guess that's why I never had a real world problem since I like to frame my images and without seeing (due to white or black out of the EVF) framing isn't possible. This behavior makes very quick snapshots between extremely different light situations impossible.

The solution is to use spot metering or centre weighted metering. In this modes you will get the right exposure even if the EVF is still blacked or whited out.

You get the exposure right in ANY metering modes. Something else must be going on here if you don't get the right exposure in Matrix mode.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
MPg1
Forum MemberPosts: 80
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to olyflyer, 5 months ago

olyflyer wrote:

manual focus on the moon isn't that difficult if you zoom in on it.

Well, im my situation it wasn't easy at all to manual focus on a white washed out disk with no trace of detail in it... I was wondering if there were any parameters to change the auto gain but it seems there are none.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to MPg1, 5 months ago

MPg1 wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

manual focus on the moon isn't that difficult if you zoom in on it.

Well, im my situation it wasn't easy at all to manual focus on a white washed out disk with no trace of detail in it...

It was a while ago I tried to shoot the moon, but if I am not wrong, once most of the display is covered by the moon the display will adjust. Perhaps you have too high display brightness on your display...

I was wondering if there were any parameters to change the auto gain but it seems there are none.

No, there is none.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
myzel
Senior MemberPosts: 2,040Gear list
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to olyflyer, 5 months ago

olyflyer wrote:

As soon as the EVF is right the exposure is right.

You are making the same mistake and confuse the EVF/LCD display lag with the exposure lag. …

No, maybe I wasn't clear enough.

If I point the camera (in Matrix Metering) at a dark scene and then at a bright one (dark corner of a room vs. daylight outside the window) and emidiatly press the shutter (less than 1 second between dark and light exposure) I get an over exposed image. If I wait until the EVF shows the correct image I get the exposure right.

If I switch from Matrix Metering to spot or centre weighted metering I get a correctly exposed image even if the EVF hadn't updated.

You get the exposure right in ANY metering modes. Something else must be going on here if you don't get the right exposure in Matrix mode.

Now that's strange.

Maybe we should compare all possible settings. If you get the right exposure in Matrix Metering without waiting a few seconds, then you are doing something differently. I would like to find out what it is.

I tested it in P mode, Matrix Metering, ISO 100, centre AF set ot AF-A, Portrait AF OFF, AF assist light off, Auto WB, single frame.

 myzel's gear list:myzel's gear list
Nikon 1 V1 Nikon 1 Nikkor 10mm f/2.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 18.5mm f/1.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 32mm f/1.2
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to myzel, 5 months ago

myzel wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

As soon as the EVF is right the exposure is right.

You are making the same mistake and confuse the EVF/LCD display lag with the exposure lag. …

No, maybe I wasn't clear enough.

If I point the camera (in Matrix Metering) at a dark scene and then at a bright one (dark corner of a room vs. daylight outside the window) and emidiatly press the shutter (less than 1 second between dark and light exposure) I get an over exposed image.

...but that's EXACTLY the way I test it, except that there is no way to take two images with 1 second interval. It takes about two seconds in that situation if the exposure difference is so huge. However...

I did some more tests and I could reproduce overexposure in one situation, which is keeping the camera in the dark without taking an image and extremely fast lifting it to the bright window and quickly pushing the shutter release all the way. The image in that case is totally overexposed, but what happens is that the AF system is fooled and the camera takes the image without focusing. If I let the camera focus it will take about two seconds and the image is taken exposed just right. Is this what you mean by your tests? Because this sounds totally pointless to me, I am not interested in taking OOF images anyway, so I don't care if the camera overexpose here.

If I wait until the EVF shows the correct image I get the exposure right.

Yes, but once again, you don't have to wait for the display, only for the focus.

If I switch from Matrix Metering to spot or centre weighted metering I get a correctly exposed image even if the EVF hadn't updated.

You get the exposure right in ANY metering modes. Something else must be going on here if you don't get the right exposure in Matrix mode.

Now that's strange.

Maybe we should compare all possible settings. If you get the right exposure in Matrix Metering without waiting a few seconds, then you are doing something differently. I would like to find out what it is.

OK, ask which settings you are interested in. EXIF is in the image and I don't know if there is any easy way to list all the camera settings, but if there is, please let me know. I don't mind sharing all my settings but to type all of them manually is a bit time consuming and pretty boring.

I tested it in P mode, Matrix Metering, ISO 100, centre AF set ot AF-A, Portrait AF OFF, AF assist light off, Auto WB, single frame.

Singe AF or continuous AF?

ADL on or off?

NR on or off?

Auto ISO?

I don't know what "Portrait AF" is. Do you mean face detect or AF-A?

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
myzel
Senior MemberPosts: 2,040Gear list
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to olyflyer, 5 months ago

olyflyer wrote:

I did some more tests and I could reproduce overexposure in one situation, which is keeping the camera in the dark without taking an image and extremely fast lifting it to the bright window and quickly pushing the shutter release all the way. …

Exactly, that's the way I get over exposure. As I wrote in my first post, that's not something I normally do. Surprisingly doing exactly that with spot or centre weighted metering I get the right exposure.

I'll test it and keep an eye on the AF - but I think the AF was right.

OK, ask which settings you are interested in. EXIF is in the image and I don't know if there is any easy way to list all the camera settings, but if there is, please let me know. I don't mind sharing all my settings but to type all of them manually is a bit time consuming and pretty boring.

I tested it in P mode, Matrix Metering, ISO 100, centre AF set ot AF-A, Portrait AF OFF, AF assist light off, Auto WB, single frame.

Singe AF or continuous AF?

Single AF

ADL on or off?

on

NR on or off?

off

Auto ISO?

off

I don't know what "Portrait AF" is. Do you mean face detect or AF-A?

Face detect AF

 myzel's gear list:myzel's gear list
Nikon 1 V1 Nikon 1 Nikkor 10mm f/2.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 18.5mm f/1.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 32mm f/1.2
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
samfan
Contributing MemberPosts: 839Gear list
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to olyflyer, 5 months ago

olyflyer wrote:

Something must be wrong with your camera, because mine does not behave like that.

Mine behaves exactly the same like everyone else's described in this topic so on the contrary, there's something strange with your camera or your method of testing.

You mention focusing often, but this has nothing to do with focusing - it's about merely POINTING the camera from light to darkness and vice versa. And it's not about image on the screen either, I can fully watch the shutter speed change veeery sloooowly from 1/125 to 1/30 and the like at the same time as the display brightness changes. You don't need to take the picture at all, but if you do, it'll most likely be exposed incorrectly.

So really, everyone describes it the same way except you, there's something unusual about what you're doing. Aren't you using an older firmware by any chance?

The D200 and the D300/D300s can switch it off and is also faster in killing the preview when you press the shutter release.

The preview has nothing to do with anything on DSLRs. I'm just watching the shutter speed jump up and down in the viewfinder as I change composition. It will continue metering and jumping for as long as the meter is active, regardless what is displayed on the LCD.

It's not a DSLR. Period.

That's what I'm saying.

However, first, even compact cameras are capable of faster metering. My little Pentax Option P&S can only show the shutter speed when the shutter is half-pressed, however it still meters much faster than the V1. With pan focus on, it meters in split second.

Second, if every other decent camera on the planet can meter quickly, why can't the N1 cameras? This is awkward to say at least.

Third, the cameras are still made for speed - see AF speed, buffer, etc. It's just that Nikon has botched it in many ways and this is one of them.

Never the less, I must yet see a situation where 2 second delay between extremely high exposure differences can cause a problem in real life.

We've already described a few.

Note it's a 3 second delay, not 2. You have a buffer in the camera which allows you to follow a subject for several seconds with 5 or 10 fps. Even if you're not using continuous focus, you can still follow the subject with AF. If the light around subject changes, your exposure will be off. Have you never shot sports such as kayaking? Or an air show?

If Nikon wouldn't be such an ass regarding lenses and pricing (I won't shell out that much money for a piece of extension tube with a chip), I'd be happily using V1 in this manner and I'm pretty sure I'd bump into this.

But in fact you can simply bump into it just by having the camera on in bright light and pointing it to different directions. It's not about bringing the camera out of the bag.

Really, it's not that difficult to understand why it can be a problem for some situations.

The only problem is if the user has set the "Shutter button AE lock" item to ON. That can really cause missed shots and a lot of headache because the delay will be between 9 and as much as 13 seconds.

Can you explain? I have no idea what you're talking about here. What 9-13 seconds?

Once again, you can ignore the display. If you want a quicker adjust you must do two things.

Well it's difficult to ignore the display when you can't see sh*t on it because it takes a couple of seconds from completely white after every image

...but if you just press the shutter release all the way the camera will not expose the image before the metering is done. The display may look over or underexposed, but the image will be right.

I really feel like we're discussing completely different things here.

Again. My camera takes 3 seconds to adjust for exposure when I pan from a bright to dark situation. The displayed shutter speed slowly changes from something to something else. When I take the picture while the meter is not settled, the photograph will be taken with the shutter speed that was displayed at the time of the snap, so the result be under- or overexposed.

And yea, I have AE lock set to off like on every other camera. That was the first thing I've changed on the V1.

In short, the AF on the camera is much much much much much faster than the meter.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
myzel
Senior MemberPosts: 2,040Gear list
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to myzel, 5 months ago

After a few more tests:

I think the Matrix Metering is a bit slow on the V1 and takes something between 1-2s to adjust between two extrem light situations. Spot and centre weighted are faster.

It takes some efford to reproduce the effect of the slower Matrix Metering and I can't imagine a real world situation where this could become a problem for me. I'm not often (never) taking pictures of something in a dark room and then within a second a picture of something in bright day light.

With a AF a bit slower it might not be a problem at all since the AF can take longer to focus than the Matrix Metering needs to get it right. With the 18.5 and the 32 lenses I get the picture in focus, but the exposure is off (but only if I don't frame the picture and do everything to take a picture as fast as possible). Just a short thought about framing and the exposure is right.

 myzel's gear list:myzel's gear list
Nikon 1 V1 Nikon 1 Nikkor 10mm f/2.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 18.5mm f/1.8 Nikon 1 Nikkor 32mm f/1.2
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to myzel, 5 months ago

myzel wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

I did some more tests and I could reproduce overexposure in one situation, which is keeping the camera in the dark without taking an image and extremely fast lifting it to the bright window and quickly pushing the shutter release all the way. …

Exactly, that's the way I get over exposure. As I wrote in my first post, that's not something I normally do. Surprisingly doing exactly that with spot or centre weighted metering I get the right exposure.

Yes, if there is a difference then it is surprising indeed.

I'll test it and keep an eye on the AF - but I think the AF was right.

Like I said, if the square is green the exposure will be right.

OK, ask which settings you are interested in. EXIF is in the image and I don't know if there is any easy way to list all the camera settings, but if there is, please let me know. I don't mind sharing all my settings but to type all of them manually is a bit time consuming and pretty boring.

I tested it in P mode, Matrix Metering, ISO 100, centre AF set ot AF-A, Portrait AF OFF, AF assist light off, Auto WB, single frame.

Singe AF or continuous AF?

Single AF

ADL on or off?

on

Mine is always off.

NR on or off?

off

Auto ISO?

off

Mine is almost always on Auto ISO3200, as it was for this test.

I don't know what "Portrait AF" is. Do you mean face detect or AF-A?

Face detect AF

Not tried with face detect. Face priority was set to off in my tests.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: it's the slow Matrix Metering
In reply to myzel, 5 months ago

myzel wrote:

After a few more tests:

I think the Matrix Metering is a bit slow on the V1 and takes something between 1-2s to adjust between two extrem light situations. Spot and centre weighted are faster.

I haven't seen any difference, as you noticed in my images above. Two seconds is what it takes, regardless if I test with matrix or CWA, at least in my scenarios it made no difference if I actually take images. Not tested with spot.

It takes some efford to reproduce the effect of the slower Matrix Metering and I can't imagine a real world situation where this could become a problem for me. I'm not often (never) taking pictures of something in a dark room and then within a second a picture of something in bright day light.

No, I have also said that this is really a non-issue. Something good to know but not a real problem.

With a AF a bit slower it might not be a problem at all since the AF can take longer to focus than the Matrix Metering needs to get it right. With the 18.5 and the 32 lenses I get the picture in focus, but the exposure is off (but only if I don't frame the picture and do everything to take a picture as fast as possible). Just a short thought about framing and the exposure is right.

Yes, the AF speed can be slow, especially in low light situations, which I also pointed out. Once the focus is done the exposure is dead on.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to samfan, 5 months ago

samfan wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

Something must be wrong with your camera, because mine does not behave like that.

Mine behaves exactly the same like everyone else's described in this topic so on the contrary, there's something strange with your camera or your method of testing.

You mention focusing often, but this has nothing to do with focusing - it's about merely POINTING the camera from light to darkness and vice versa. And it's not about image on the screen either, I can fully watch the shutter speed change veeery sloooowly from 1/125 to 1/30 and the like at the same time as the display brightness changes. You don't need to take the picture at all, but if you do, it'll most likely be exposed incorrectly.

So really, everyone describes it the same way except you, there's something unusual about what you're doing. Aren't you using an older firmware by any chance?

The D200 and the D300/D300s can switch it off and is also faster in killing the preview when you press the shutter release.

The preview has nothing to do with anything on DSLRs. I'm just watching the shutter speed jump up and down in the viewfinder as I change composition. It will continue metering and jumping for as long as the meter is active, regardless what is displayed on the LCD.

It's not a DSLR. Period.

That's what I'm saying.

However, first, even compact cameras are capable of faster metering. My little Pentax Option P&S can only show the shutter speed when the shutter is half-pressed, however it still meters much faster than the V1. With pan focus on, it meters in split second.

Second, if every other decent camera on the planet can meter quickly, why can't the N1 cameras? This is awkward to say at least.

Third, the cameras are still made for speed - see AF speed, buffer, etc. It's just that Nikon has botched it in many ways and this is one of them.

Never the less, I must yet see a situation where 2 second delay between extremely high exposure differences can cause a problem in real life.

We've already described a few.

Note it's a 3 second delay, not 2. You have a buffer in the camera which allows you to follow a subject for several seconds with 5 or 10 fps. Even if you're not using continuous focus, you can still follow the subject with AF. If the light around subject changes, your exposure will be off. Have you never shot sports such as kayaking? Or an air show?

If Nikon wouldn't be such an ass regarding lenses and pricing (I won't shell out that much money for a piece of extension tube with a chip), I'd be happily using V1 in this manner and I'm pretty sure I'd bump into this.

But in fact you can simply bump into it just by having the camera on in bright light and pointing it to different directions. It's not about bringing the camera out of the bag.

Really, it's not that difficult to understand why it can be a problem for some situations.

The only problem is if the user has set the "Shutter button AE lock" item to ON. That can really cause missed shots and a lot of headache because the delay will be between 9 and as much as 13 seconds.

Can you explain? I have no idea what you're talking about here. What 9-13 seconds?

Try it.

Once again, you can ignore the display. If you want a quicker adjust you must do two things.

Well it's difficult to ignore the display when you can't see sh*t on it because it takes a couple of seconds from completely white after every image

...but if you just press the shutter release all the way the camera will not expose the image before the metering is done. The display may look over or underexposed, but the image will be right.

I really feel like we're discussing completely different things here.

Again. My camera takes 3 seconds to adjust for exposure when I pan from a bright to dark situation. The displayed shutter speed slowly changes from something to something else. When I take the picture while the meter is not settled, the photograph will be taken with the shutter speed that was displayed at the time of the snap, so the result be under- or overexposed.

And yea, I have AE lock set to off like on every other camera. That was the first thing I've changed on the V1.

In short, the AF on the camera is much much much much much faster than the meter.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
samfan
Contributing MemberPosts: 839Gear list
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to olyflyer, 5 months ago

olyflyer wrote:

I can't for my life imagine how you manage this. I just tried to repeat this but I can't. My camera won't over or underexpose.

Here are 2 images when I give the camera time to set exposure:

Now when I quickly pan from the keyboard to the lightbulb and take a shot:

And now quickly back to the keyboard:

This is with AF and VR on, meaning the camera can autofocus and stabilize MUCH faster than it can set the meter.

Obviously if you wait 3 seconds for some reason, you'll have fine exposure.

I'm thinking your camera focuses slower than it should and therefore you have to wait for AF or something.

What lens and FW are you using? Mine is standard 10-30/3.5-5.6 and latest FW for both cam and lens.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
nikopol
Junior MemberPosts: 46
Like?
Continous mode is faster
In reply to samfan, 5 months ago

Going from bright light to darker inside, it seems that the metering adjusts in one or two frames (1-2/8ths of a sec, mechanical shutter) in CW or Spot mode; considerably longer in Matrix - understandably, I guess.

The display does indeed take much longer to adjust to ambient light.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
olyflyer
Forum ProPosts: 22,739
Like?
Re: The worst thing about the V1...
In reply to samfan, 5 months ago

samfan wrote:

olyflyer wrote:

I can't for my life imagine how you manage this. I just tried to repeat this but I can't. My camera won't over or underexpose.

Here are 2 images when I give the camera time to set exposure:

Now when I quickly pan from the keyboard to the lightbulb and take a shot:

And now quickly back to the keyboard:

This is with AF and VR on, meaning the camera can autofocus and stabilize MUCH faster than it can set the meter.

Obviously if you wait 3 seconds for some reason, you'll have fine exposure.

I'm thinking your camera focuses slower than it should and therefore you have to wait for AF or something.

What lens and FW are you using? Mine is standard 10-30/3.5-5.6 and latest FW for both cam and lens.

EXIF is in my images. Not in yours. I have no idea how you managed to take that underexposed image. As I explained, my camera can not do that, except maybe in one situation, which I just been thinking about, that is that your exposure isn't enough, i.e. you hit the roof of the ISO and the shutter speed can not be lowered any more, or the aperture can not be opened. As I said, there is no EXIF in your images, so as far as I am concerned, they are not very informative, to say the least.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum MMy threads