Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF

Started 9 months ago | Questions
Mk82
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Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
9 months ago

I am about to buy a new camera and I want to start fresh if possible as my main gear got destroyed (crushed) and nothing than metal/magnesium pieces and glass was left in flat form.

My secondary gear (now the only one) was Olympus E-520 double kit. 24-45mm and 70-300mm what I used for macro and low light photography.

Now I am going to spend 800-2400€ to new set and I have difficulties to make a choice.

Here are my choices:

1) Olympus E-M1 + 12-40mm f/2.8 for 2199€

Then later buy a DHL-7 grip to give extra battery and better portrait handling.

Probably as well get a speedbooster with OM mount (0.7x) to attach old OM macro set and prime lenses. Or simply a OM and 4/3 adapters.

2) Olympus E-M5 + 12--50mm f/3.5-6.3 & 40-150 f/4-5.6 for 799€

Then later buy a DHL-6 dual-grip and FV-4 both about 240€

And same as in choice 1) adapters/booster.

3) Nikon D600 for 1449€ and Jupion grip for it 129€

Then get a nice f/1.4 50mm Nikkor for it 199€

Later some kind 18-22mm wide angle lens and 85-200mm tele.

And now what I want and need.

1) I do lots of macros (1:1-9:1 scales!) and close-up photos 1:2-1:4) with my E-520

2) I take lots of landscape and environment photographs

3) I love shallow depth of field and especially on portraits, motion shots are like second nature for me.

And now the what I like in those cameras and what are my limits:

I suddenly got two years ago a pain to my eyes and on next morning I lost permanentally my vision by about 1-2 diopters. Nothing wrong was found and only one doctor of dozen or so was heard about similar case. Result was I got glasses and it has taken this time to even wear glasses in daily life as I had perfect vision before what ever triggered it (I could read 20cm letters from 2km distance at night and medium rain from moving car as long the text was light) and I really hate glasses when using a cameras. Now I have 5th degree astigmatic what means I see lots of reflections on longer distances, what makes every optical device hard to use especially at low light.

I love E-520 because its live view and remote control via USB in studio environment. Its preview for whitebalance has come nice trick in some cases but not so important as I use grey card to balance before shooting and nevertheless RAW almost always.

I really liked its stabilization system and definetly its dust remover what has allowed me to swap lenses even under sand/mud storms without fearing destroying sensor.

But I really missed shallow depth of field what FF cameras offers so I bought to it a OM adapter to give access to Zuiko 28mm f/2 and 50mm f/1.2 and f/1.8 and they gave me some of the feelings what it was shooting FF camera.

Reason why I would buy a Nikon is cheap price and shallow depth of field, but I even could consider 1.6x crop camera with light booster to give -1 stop and shallower depth with few old manual focus lenses if live view would be as fast as with m4/3 and capture shots as fast without delay (mirror).

But the size is huge and only benefit I find is their weight helps to stabilize the camera but they are clumsy and difficult to wear, what was reason why OM-1 and OM-2 cameras are better than any Nikon or Canon film cameras in usability and speed (I even have today two motor grips giving 5 FPS)

Olympus M5 is more like OM-2 but the display requires bigger grip so M1 feels better on that.

I really love the idea of EVF and I didn't notice so big difference in size but resolution requires me to think FV-4 if I take M5 and gives bonus for 90 degree possibility angle for macro, street and portrait photography.

The M1 has WiFi what I liked when tested with the live bulb mode. I do now and then 30-180s exposures with ultra dim neutral grey filters (2xnd400) what gives long exposure times for daylight shooting and live view has helped on that a lot as it gave some visual hint what was sharp and how photo was composed in its boost mode. Optical view didn't five possibility to that all! And same thing with macro when you add 30-35cm between lens and sensor and you working area is 1x0.3mm it comes impossible to see what you are shooting without bright light source and there the 7-10x live view magnification is just awesome for great manual focusing.

And again the 2x crop factor helps here too as it gives extra steps for close-up shots with normal lenses.

For landscape I like the possibility to see what I get before launching, as most of the times there is no seconds to waste when doing landscape shooting. You can not try and make mistakes as the correct lightning can be over in time when you notice the metering was wrong. Instead wasting for EV bracketing or metering around, it sounds nice to see what you get from EVF but how well does it work? As waiting months or even year to get correct lightning and then spending hours/days on location just to miss once or few times the perfect light does frustrate more than missing shot when shooting while just driving around.

I tested 30min M1 in store (OIShare in tablet too) and I didn't find spot where to try it in low light or high contrast subject. So I ask about M1 owners how well it does show you the results? I was amazed by the speed on both olympus and size of M1 VF but as I can not turn it up, it gives VF-4 some benefit to buy, even when it should be same display module.

The image stabilization system was amazing, I tested it and I shaked more and more camera in 40mm end and I noticed that how much I was trying to shake it without seeing anything moving. I have never seen anything like it, E-520 stabilization system was already a amazing years back and nothing was close to it on Nikon or Canon lenses and now I am scared about idea to get a FF camera (D600) as I don't want to buy anymore every lens with VR/IS to get something in low light with acceptable DOF (f/4-8).

Am I crazy if I don't get E-M5 or D600?

Price for E-M1 is huge but.... That single lens seems to fit for most my situations very well. Attaching a old 4/3 lens with its PDAF is tempting and I see wet dreams from speedbooster and 50mm f/1.2 to turn 70mm f/0.85-0.9 so it would be about f/1.4 by DOF but when speedbooster costs $400 it is just new extra cost...

For wedding/funeral and other shooting (from indoor sports to dancing in low light etc) I need speed, wide angles and long tele. The 12-40mm covers wide range of needed ones but then again 70-300 could give benefit in many situations but how about 7-14mm for M1/M5? They give worth to their money? As even then I need speed so I can stop motion at longer range.

The M5 features would be enough but WiFi control, live bulb, PDAF sounds to be huge benefit but I could still live without them if EVF could give something benefit, attaching flash setups wirelessly or with sync cable...

I have very hard times to deny from buying M5 for cheap price but it requires to invest more to multiple lenses, external EVF, dual battery grip. Or then get just the body for 599€ and think about was it wise not to spend 3x for M1 or D600?

So few features I can see in FF, mainly the shallower DOF, higher megapixel count and of course again the stupid "pro status" with a bigger camera when in sport events etc where you can even be thrown out of press area because you are not pro as you have just "hobbiest" camera and waving press card doesn't help at all.

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Nikon D600 Olympus E-520 Olympus E-M1
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Lab D
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Try Renting
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

If you go with the E-M1 or E-M5 you always have the option of renting a 42.5mm F/.95 lens or the new Leica 45.2 F/1.2 lens for those occasions when you want a very shallow DoF.

You can go the speed booster route too.

Good luck!

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Bassam Guy
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Re: Try Renting
In reply to Lab D, 9 months ago

I shot with an OM4T (why can't I get multi-spot metering today?) until a D70 then a D200 and now an E-PL5.

I too have a lot of nice OM glass and the cheapest adapter I could find on e-bay.

For u43 macro, I believe no lens rivals the Olympus 60mm (see http://www.flickr.com/groups/olympus60macro/pool). At 2.8 and a smaller sensor, you will, obviously, have a deeper DOF. The lens cost me $450 US but I saw an Amazon add for it recently for $399.99 US. Don't know the euro conversion and it probably more than the trade rate - you guys pay VAT and generally have higher prices.

Advantages of u43: take it anywhere, keep a low profile, don't get locked into a single manufacturer.

Disadvantages of Olympus u43 (I don't know Panny): Harvard & MIT are collaborating on a six-year post-doctorate program entitled Philosophy of the Olympus Micro-Four-Thirds Menu System.

Advantages of Nikon FF: better at muscle building, blissfully shallow DOF, you're locked into NIKON.

Disadvantages of Nikon DX (I don't know FF): Took three tries with shipping back & forth to get a working SB600 Flash. Two of the three Nikon DX lenses I purchased required repair. Don't know if this is typical but I dropped Nikon because of that. I returned to Olympus because my OM4T has been working - and still does - since I bought it in 1986.

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Sergey_Green
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If you are after the best .
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

Mk82 wrote:

.. then it is rather simple

And now what I want and need.

1) I do lots of macros (1:1-9:1 scales!) and close-up photos 1:2-1:4) with my E-520

FF

2) I take lots of landscape and environment photographs

FF

3) I love shallow depth of field and especially on portraits, motion shots are like second nature for me.

FF

Work out the rest. I am not sure how easy (or not) it is for your eyes to use EVF, but probably like the rest of them. What is 9:1 macro scale, how did you get with E-520? Canon MP-E 65 will allow you 5 to 1 FF reproduction ratio (need Canon camera), and you would probably need some reverse setup to pass that.

As the poster after you stated, rent one at a time, try them out, see what waves your flag.

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Martin.au
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Re: Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

With an intro like that you have to tell us the story.

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Melbourne Park
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Re: If you are after the best .
In reply to Sergey_Green, 9 months ago

The main benefits of micro four thirds is size, and perhaps in your case - live view.

Yet - you want to buy grips, which increases the camera size.

A dissadvantage of MFT for you is its great depth of field. Because you want shallow.

Incidentally, I find with taking pictures of people inside, that F/1.4 on the Panasonic 25mm (50mm) lens is too shallow a depth of field ... I have to use F/2.0 usually if people are not the same distance from my camera.

For portraits, there are now two superb lenses: I have the 75mm F/1.8, and its quite remarkable. But its not a low cost lens. And neither is Panasonic's 42.5 mm portrait lens. I would suggest the 75mm as it will produce shallower depth of field in portraits. The problem though, is that for macro, you need the 60mm lens, which is not nearly such a good portrait lens.

So if you buy a portrait prime, then - should you get a zoom? I have the "kit" 12-50mm lens, and while its nice, its far from great. 2nd hand they must be cheap. Also they have a form of macro. The 12-45mm would be worth if with the M-1 - but only because its discounted with the body when you buy it. Otherwise, perhaps you might be a prime person? Primes give you quality and compactness. An MFT strength.

If you go mft, I'd suggest just just buy another battery or two, and get used to the handling without a grip. I have the grip for the OM-D M-5, and it grows the OMD M-5 to DSLR size - IMO it's too big except for, say - a 50-200mm lens (which weighs one kg). The finger grip extension is good though. The OM-D M-1 is faster though, including its touch screen, which runs faster than my M-5 (although perhaps I need to upgrade my firmware)

So ... since you want shallow depth of field, you want a grip, I'd suggest investigating buying a Nikon or Canon Full frame DSLR. There are several choices, several are within your budget. Investigate 2nd hand lenses too for the camera of choice. Some primes are good and not expensive. Better lenses though can be expensive.

A Nikon 610 would do you well. For sex appeal (a waste of money but perhaps its ergonomics and appearance might make it worth it) the new retro Nikon DF screams appeal but its a bit beyond your budget and perhaps is just a souped up 610 in a brilliant body.

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neil holmes
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Re: Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

Mk82 wrote:

I am about to buy a new camera and I want to start fresh if possible as my main gear got destroyed (crushed) and nothing than metal/magnesium pieces and glass was left in flat form.

My secondary gear (now the only one) was Olympus E-520 double kit. 24-45mm and 70-300mm what I used for macro and low light photography.

Now I am going to spend 800-2400€ to new set and I have difficulties to make a choice.

Here are my choices:

1) Olympus E-M1 + 12-40mm f/2.8 for 2199€

Then later buy a DHL-7 grip to give extra battery and better portrait handling.

Probably as well get a speedbooster with OM mount (0.7x) to attach old OM macro set and prime lenses. Or simply a OM and 4/3 adapters.

2) Olympus E-M5 + 12--50mm f/3.5-6.3 & 40-150 f/4-5.6 for 799€

Then later buy a DHL-6 dual-grip and FV-4 both about 240€

And same as in choice 1) adapters/booster.

3) Nikon D600 for 1449€ and Jupion grip for it 129€

Then get a nice f/1.4 50mm Nikkor for it 199€

Later some kind 18-22mm wide angle lens and 85-200mm tele.

And now what I want and need.

1) I do lots of macros (1:1-9:1 scales!) and close-up photos 1:2-1:4) with my E-520

2) I take lots of landscape and environment photographs

3) I love shallow depth of field and especially on portraits, motion shots are like second nature for me.

And now the what I like in those cameras and what are my limits:

I suddenly got two years ago a pain to my eyes and on next morning I lost permanentally my vision by about 1-2 diopters. Nothing wrong was found and only one doctor of dozen or so was heard about similar case. Result was I got glasses and it has taken this time to even wear glasses in daily life as I had perfect vision before what ever triggered it (I could read 20cm letters from 2km distance at night and medium rain from moving car as long the text was light) and I really hate glasses when using a cameras. Now I have 5th degree astigmatic what means I see lots of reflections on longer distances, what makes every optical device hard to use especially at low light.

I love E-520 because its live view and remote control via USB in studio environment. Its preview for whitebalance has come nice trick in some cases but not so important as I use grey card to balance before shooting and nevertheless RAW almost always.

I really liked its stabilization system and definetly its dust remover what has allowed me to swap lenses even under sand/mud storms without fearing destroying sensor.

But I really missed shallow depth of field what FF cameras offers so I bought to it a OM adapter to give access to Zuiko 28mm f/2 and 50mm f/1.2 and f/1.8 and they gave me some of the feelings what it was shooting FF camera.

Reason why I would buy a Nikon is cheap price and shallow depth of field, but I even could consider 1.6x crop camera with light booster to give -1 stop and shallower depth with few old manual focus lenses if live view would be as fast as with m4/3 and capture shots as fast without delay (mirror).

But the size is huge and only benefit I find is their weight helps to stabilize the camera but they are clumsy and difficult to wear, what was reason why OM-1 and OM-2 cameras are better than any Nikon or Canon film cameras in usability and speed (I even have today two motor grips giving 5 FPS)

Olympus M5 is more like OM-2 but the display requires bigger grip so M1 feels better on that.

I really love the idea of EVF and I didn't notice so big difference in size but resolution requires me to think FV-4 if I take M5 and gives bonus for 90 degree possibility angle for macro, street and portrait photography.

The M1 has WiFi what I liked when tested with the live bulb mode. I do now and then 30-180s exposures with ultra dim neutral grey filters (2xnd400) what gives long exposure times for daylight shooting and live view has helped on that a lot as it gave some visual hint what was sharp and how photo was composed in its boost mode. Optical view didn't five possibility to that all! And same thing with macro when you add 30-35cm between lens and sensor and you working area is 1x0.3mm it comes impossible to see what you are shooting without bright light source and there the 7-10x live view magnification is just awesome for great manual focusing.

And again the 2x crop factor helps here too as it gives extra steps for close-up shots with normal lenses.

For landscape I like the possibility to see what I get before launching, as most of the times there is no seconds to waste when doing landscape shooting. You can not try and make mistakes as the correct lightning can be over in time when you notice the metering was wrong. Instead wasting for EV bracketing or metering around, it sounds nice to see what you get from EVF but how well does it work? As waiting months or even year to get correct lightning and then spending hours/days on location just to miss once or few times the perfect light does frustrate more than missing shot when shooting while just driving around.

I tested 30min M1 in store (OIShare in tablet too) and I didn't find spot where to try it in low light or high contrast subject. So I ask about M1 owners how well it does show you the results? I was amazed by the speed on both olympus and size of M1 VF but as I can not turn it up, it gives VF-4 some benefit to buy, even when it should be same display module.

The image stabilization system was amazing, I tested it and I shaked more and more camera in 40mm end and I noticed that how much I was trying to shake it without seeing anything moving. I have never seen anything like it, E-520 stabilization system was already a amazing years back and nothing was close to it on Nikon or Canon lenses and now I am scared about idea to get a FF camera (D600) as I don't want to buy anymore every lens with VR/IS to get something in low light with acceptable DOF (f/4-8).

Am I crazy if I don't get E-M5 or D600?

Price for E-M1 is huge but.... That single lens seems to fit for most my situations very well. Attaching a old 4/3 lens with its PDAF is tempting and I see wet dreams from speedbooster and 50mm f/1.2 to turn 70mm f/0.85-0.9 so it would be about f/1.4 by DOF but when speedbooster costs $400 it is just new extra cost...

For wedding/funeral and other shooting (from indoor sports to dancing in low light etc) I need speed, wide angles and long tele. The 12-40mm covers wide range of needed ones but then again 70-300 could give benefit in many situations but how about 7-14mm for M1/M5? They give worth to their money? As even then I need speed so I can stop motion at longer range.

The M5 features would be enough but WiFi control, live bulb, PDAF sounds to be huge benefit but I could still live without them if EVF could give something benefit, attaching flash setups wirelessly or with sync cable...

I have very hard times to deny from buying M5 for cheap price but it requires to invest more to multiple lenses, external EVF, dual battery grip. Or then get just the body for 599€ and think about was it wise not to spend 3x for M1 or D600?

So few features I can see in FF, mainly the shallower DOF, higher megapixel count and of course again the stupid "pro status" with a bigger camera when in sport events etc where you can even be thrown out of press area because you are not pro as you have just "hobbiest" camera and waving press card doesn't help at all.

Hi

You actually sound like a candidate for the Sony A7.

Of your choices, I would go with the Oly but I would suggest having a try of a A7 (and I would not recommend it to anyone WITHOUT trying it as it can be quite polarising.....me I love it as well as my GX7.

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Sergey_Green
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In reply to neil holmes, 9 months ago

neil holmes wrote:

Hi

You actually sound like a candidate for the Sony A7.

Of your choices, I would go with the Oly but I would suggest having a try of a A7 (and I would not recommend it to anyone WITHOUT trying it as it can be quite polarising.....me I love it as well as my GX7.

I don't know much about FE mount, do they have good AF macro lenses for it already? How do the Tamrons and Sigmas work on it? But yes, why not, it certainly is promising.

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neil holmes
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Re: Sounds like it ..
In reply to Sergey_Green, 9 months ago

Sergey_Green wrote:

neil holmes wrote:

Hi

You actually sound like a candidate for the Sony A7.

Of your choices, I would go with the Oly but I would suggest having a try of a A7 (and I would not recommend it to anyone WITHOUT trying it as it can be quite polarising.....me I love it as well as my GX7.

I don't know much about FE mount, do they have good AF macro lenses for it already? How do the Tamrons and Sigmas work on it? But yes, why not, it certainly is promising.

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- sergey

Native FE mount lenses are few and far between right now.....more and more coming over the next year or so.

you can use autofocus lenses from Minolta, Canon EF and Contax G via adapters, so whatever af lenses they have should work (maybe a bit slow). You can also use Sony E mount auto focus lenses without adapters but the camera crops to a 10mp apsc (A7)....A7R crops to about 15mp I think.

some E mount lenses do not vignette...at least some zooms work for part of the range I believe....my only af lens is the kit lens but the camera is so good with manual focus lenses that is all I need....I have the 12mm, 45 1.8 and Oly kit lenses for the GX7 as well as lots of mf ones.

I got the A7 to use with a lot of manual focus lenses (that I also use with a different angle of view) on the GX7.

I only have a Canon FD adapter so far (Pentax K on the way) for the A7

I have Pentax, FD and Minolta MD adapters for the GX7.

I will use a 2x 1:1 macro converter with various lenses manual focus on both cameras (and reverse mount lenses onto the converter as well for greater than 1:1.

Waiting for another 1:1 converter in FD mount.....looking forward to trying a 50 1.2 L lens with the converter both normal and reversed.

The A7 does not have a built in flash.....I think the EVF on the A7 will be spectacular for macro but the GX7 may be the better camera for macro (and likewise the EM1).....IF you get it right the A7 may well be better but I think there will be many more failures due to dof issues.....at least for me.

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dgnelson
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Re: If you are after the best .
In reply to Sergey_Green, 9 months ago

Sergey_Green wrote:

Mk82 wrote:

1) I do lots of macros (1:1-9:1 scales!) and close-up photos 1:2-1:4) with my E-520

FF

Why FF?  Shallow depth of field is a disadvantage.

2) I take lots of landscape and environment photographs

FF

Why is it more FF more important for landscape than other kinds of photography?

Dan

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Sergey_Green
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Duno ..
In reply to neil holmes, 9 months ago

neil holmes wrote:

Native FE mount lenses are few and far between right now.....more and more coming over the next year or so.

you can use autofocus lenses from Minolta, Canon EF and Contax G via adapters, so whatever af lenses they have should work (maybe a bit slow). You can also use Sony E mount auto focus lenses without adapters but the camera crops to a 10mp apsc (A7)....A7R crops to about 15mp I think.

some E mount lenses do not vignette...at least some zooms work for part of the range I believe....my only af lens is the kit lens but the camera is so good with manual focus lenses that is all I need....I have the 12mm, 45 1.8 and Oly kit lenses for the GX7 as well as lots of mf ones.

I got the A7 to use with a lot of manual focus lenses (that I also use with a different angle of view) on the GX7.

I only have a Canon FD adapter so far (Pentax K on the way) for the A7

I have Pentax, FD and Minolta MD adapters for the GX7.

I will use a 2x 1:1 macro converter with various lenses manual focus on both cameras (and reverse mount lenses onto the converter as well for greater than 1:1.

Waiting for another 1:1 converter in FD mount.....looking forward to trying a 50 1.2 L lens with the converter both normal and reversed.

The A7 does not have a built in flash.....I think the EVF on the A7 will be spectacular for macro but the GX7 may be the better camera for macro (and likewise the EM1).....IF you get it right the A7 may well be better but I think there will be many more failures due to dof issues.....at least for me.

I am used to fast AF, I don't know if I would be attracted to this kind of a setup as you describe. Same as df, Nikonians love it, especially if you like the process of taking pictures more than the results, but it just would not be enough for me to go for it. If Sony, I would probably be looking at A7 with one lens only, some fast prime, and that's it. Only for portability and simplicity. Expanding and experimenting with it just would not make much sense at this point.

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Sergey_Green
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In reply to dgnelson, 9 months ago

dgnelson wrote:

Sergey_Green wrote:

Mk82 wrote:

1) I do lots of macros (1:1-9:1 scales!) and close-up photos 1:2-1:4) with my E-520

FF

Why FF? Shallow depth of field is a disadvantage.

You decide what is interesting in your will-be image, and device how to bring the eye of the viewer directly to it. All there is to it. There is hardly a need to go past f/11 with FF setup I have done so far.

Your needs (if they are not only theoretical) may be different, but I see closeups ruined by deep DoF just as often as they can be disadvantaged by the shallower plane of focus.

2) I take lots of landscape and environment photographs

FF

Why is it more FF more important for landscape than other kinds of photography?

Not sure I understand your question, but if you mean to ask why FF is a better choice for landscape photography, then it is simple; more dr, more detail, and easier to push the files around. If it all matters to you of course, or portability alone is not the first mark on your list.

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Rocky ID Olympian
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Re: Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

I just bought E-M1 which previously I have E-M5. Used to have E-520 also.

Just from E-M5 to E-M1 I can feel big difference in EVF, grip and other functions. I Think you should get E-M1. This camera is a keeper, we can use it way more than 3 years and will still sufficient for us.

Reading about your condition, E-M1 EVF will bring huge advantage for you in low light.

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dgnelson
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Re: Why not ;) ?
In reply to Sergey_Green, 9 months ago

Sergey_Green wrote:

dgnelson wrote:

Why is it more FF more important for landscape than other kinds of photography?

Not sure I understand your question, but if you mean to ask why FF is a better choice for landscape photography, then it is simple; more dr, more detail, and easier to push the files around. If it all matters to you of course, or portability alone is not the first mark on your list.

Yes true, but why does that apply to landscape more than other types of photography?

Dan

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Ulric
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Re: Why not ;) ?
In reply to dgnelson, 9 months ago

dgnelson wrote:

Sergey_Green wrote:

dgnelson wrote:

Why is it more FF more important for landscape than other kinds of photography?

Not sure I understand your question, but if you mean to ask why FF is a better choice for landscape photography, then it is simple; more dr, more detail, and easier to push the files around. If it all matters to you of course, or portability alone is not the first mark on your list.

Yes true, but why does that apply to landscape more than other types of photography?

Dan

Let me try to answer that. For landcapes you want as much DR and as little noise as possible. Two sensors, using the same technology and both at base ISO, will collect light proportional to the sensor area at the same exposure. In this case, that means extending the exposure time for the larger sensor. The result is more DR and/or less noise.

This limitation of the smaller sensor can for landscapes usually be overcome through bracketing and stacking, which is an automatic feature in modern cameras and software such as Lightroom.

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topstuff
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Interesting set of requirement, not easily met..
In reply to Ulric, 9 months ago

The EM-1 would definitely tick ALL the boxes other than the fact that the OP would ideally have the full frame advantages of DOF and subject isolation. Other than that, EM-1 sounds perfect.

Sony A7 / A7R also very nearly is perfect. An EVF and a Full frame sensor. The only concern is that the A7 will not be ideal for sports. It is a slow and deliberate kind of camera.

Sony A99 would also fit the brief - live view and EVF - Fast AF and good for sports, full frame sensor.

There is a rumour that Sony are bringing out a new full frame A series camera in a few weeks, so this may present some opportunities with a discounted A99, they are normally quite pricey.

I have some experience of the Sony A99. It is a great camera. In many ways, it feels to me a bit like a larger, full frame EM-1.

Sony A99 is the ONLY full frame camera with an EVF, fast AF and operation.

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Art_P
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From your requirements
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

I'd definitely take the E-M1 over the 5... after adding grip and EV-4 to the 5, you're getting quite close to the E-M-1 price... and you still will be missing WiFi, HDR, full metal chassis and a bunch of other upgrades.

Biggest advantage I see to FF would be higher res and DR, biggest disadvantage would be size

9:1 macro? using a reversed lens or bellows?  Do you do much focus stacking?

I don't see shallow DoF being an advantage for landscape (depending on your style) or macro... perhaps for portraits.

As for looking more 'pro' to get into the press area, mount a 50-200 w adapter (or the 40-150 2.8 when it comes out) bulk up w the battery grip, and that should be sufficient to impress

BTW, how does one totally flatten one's kit? Steamroller? Tank?

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MrGubrz
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Re: Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

the 600 oil issues would scare me away from that one.  610, but then its huge, so id never take it off a tripod... so it wouldnt get used much.. but thats ME

em5 + vf4?  that would be oddly large n bulky looking

id just go with the em1 out of those options

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kcdogger
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Re: Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
In reply to MrGubrz, 9 months ago

Personally I'd go with a M4/3 kit and some good primes and/or a couple of pro zooms, but only you know what you are willing to carry and how much you can spend.

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gotompoes
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Re: Buying new camera (set) and choice between two m4/3 and FF
In reply to Mk82, 9 months ago

For your type of photography i recommend to go full frame. Whilst the E M1 is a very nice camera (assuming you get one without the shutter shock problem) the files tend to look grainy. With the full frame option the files look much more silky/velvety.
I use the a micro 4/3 system for street and some creative photography styles and several full frame systems for urban, landscape and other " considered " photography styles.
The E M1 is an ideal camera for unobtrusive type of photography.
Instead of the Nikon d 600 i use the  Nikon DF with some small primes. Whilst the Df is expensive the Nikon prime lenses are cheap. If you use zoom lenses for the Nikon D 600 then the package gets quite sizable.

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