My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.

Started 9 months ago | Questions
DickyAus
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My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
9 months ago

Well, at least it's a start.

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

 DickyAus's gear list:DickyAus's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
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Orion12
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

DickyAus wrote:

Well, at least it's a start.

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .

Their was a Mist Covering the Moon so Some of the Detail is Missing.  NO Raynox TC just 1,000mm Lens

The Moon Shot File Size was captured @ 4:3 Ratio / 8-Mp & Then Cropped 1:1 with NO-Scaling - These are 1:1 Sensor Pixels. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion 

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Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Pentax K10D +4 more
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DickyAus
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to Orion12, 9 months ago

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

Well, at least it's a start.

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .

The Moon Shot File Size was captured @ 4:3 Ratio / 8-Mp & Then Cropped 1:1 with NO-Scaling - These are 1:1 Sensor Pixels. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion

That is a really great moon capture Orion, it's about the best I have seen from an HS50. I was intrigued by the small white crater just to the left of the right most mare. It really stands out in full screen view; it is far less conspicuous in any shot I have taken from down under.

I was a bit slow getting out to try the lightening photos so I missed most of the storm. I did try a few EXR shots without success; I got a half inch wide blown out stripe where the lightening went and reasonable capture of lights in houses. As soon as I shortened the shutter I got shaky lightening and lost the other lights. In M mode I found it hard to get the manual focus set to infinity. A lot of the lightening strikes were the multiple strike type like a flickering neon so I was completely at a loss to know what shutter to use. By the time I thought to try 'firework' scene mode the storm had rolled out to sea. Maybe the way to go is a very dark filter and a long exposure?

Dicky.

 DickyAus's gear list:DickyAus's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
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photoreddi
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

DickyAus wrote:

...

I was a bit slow getting out to try the lightening photos so I missed most of the storm. I did try a few EXR shots without success; I got a half inch wide blown out stripe where the lightening went and reasonable capture of lights in houses. As soon as I shortened the shutter I got shaky lightening and lost the other lights. In M mode I found it hard to get the manual focus set to infinity. A lot of the lightening strikes were the multiple strike type like a flickering neon so I was completely at a loss to know what shutter to use. By the time I thought to try 'firework' scene mode the storm had rolled out to sea. Maybe the way to go is a very dark filter and a long exposure?

The last time I tried shooting lightning was enough years ago that I don't recall which camera I used, but I used a tripod and the settings were something like this.

First I chose exposure setting to get a moderately dark image when there was no lightning, so distant trees and buildings were more than just a silhouette and could be recognized but if lightning was included in future shots, the lightning would clearly stand out from the background. Then I used manual focus so that I could leave the cameras set to near infinity focus. Fuji's recent cameras are fairly easy to focus manually, even if you have only pinpoints of distant light to focus on.

I chose a small aperture and ISO 100 or ISO 200 so that I could get decent (but moderately dark) photos using a long, slow shutter speed and a small aperture. My HS35 will only go to 4 sec. in S mode, but can go to 30 sec. in M mode. So I might take many 4 sec. or 8 sec. shots, one after another, waiting for lightning to strike during the exposure. When it happens, if the lightning appears too bright and overexposed, I'd make the aperture smaller and the shutter speed correspondingly longer, to reduce the brightness of the lightning without changing the brightness of the rest of the scene. If the lightning was not bright enough I'd do the opposite, opening up the aperture and changing to a correspondingly faster shutter speed.

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Orion12
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to photoreddi, 9 months ago

photoreddi wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

...

I was a bit slow getting out to try the lightening photos so I missed most of the storm. I did try a few EXR shots without success; I got a half inch wide blown out stripe where the lightening went and reasonable capture of lights in houses. As soon as I shortened the shutter I got shaky lightening and lost the other lights. In M mode I found it hard to get the manual focus set to infinity. A lot of the lightening strikes were the multiple strike type like a flickering neon so I was completely at a loss to know what shutter to use. By the time I thought to try 'firework' scene mode the storm had rolled out to sea. Maybe the way to go is a very dark filter and a long exposure?

The last time I tried shooting lightning was enough years ago that I don't recall which camera I used, but I used a tripod and the settings were something like this.

First I chose exposure setting to get a moderately dark image when there was no lightning, so distant trees and buildings were more than just a silhouette and could be recognized but if lightning was included in future shots, the lightning would clearly stand out from the background. Then I used manual focus so that I could leave the cameras set to near infinity focus. Fuji's recent cameras are fairly easy to focus manually, even if you have only pinpoints of distant light to focus on.

I chose a small aperture and ISO 100 or ISO 200 so that I could get decent (but moderately dark) photos using a long, slow shutter speed and a small aperture. My HS35 will only go to 4 sec. in S mode, but can go to 30 sec. in M mode. So I might take many 4 sec. or 8 sec. shots, one after another, waiting for lightning to strike during the exposure. When it happens, if the lightning appears too bright and overexposed, I'd make the aperture smaller and the shutter speed correspondingly longer, to reduce the brightness of the lightning without changing the brightness of the rest of the scene. If the lightning was not bright enough I'd do the opposite, opening up the aperture and changing to a correspondingly faster shutter speed.

That's a Lot of Guess Work & Typically Hard Aspects to Align Manually Without Repetitive Testing. . .
Beings that Lightening is Anything But Predictable - I'd Let the Camera Select Some of those items.
( Except for the Manual Focus which is an Excellent Suggestion ) 

For Example in the EXR SN ( High ISO & Low Noise ) mode the HS50EXR Does a Stellar Job of Selecting the LOWEST ISO that Works Technically for the Shot & Getting YOUR Selected Exposure. . .
I Personally can NOT Out-Think this Part of the Camera in REAL TIME SHOOTING. . .
It's the BEST "Fast Shot" Capture Mode I Know of for the HS50EXR. . .

btw : There is a "VIVID Shots of Fire Works with a Slow Shutter Speed" Specialty Mode  on SP1
I Have to Add that on "Other" Cameras I've Not Gotten Good Results Out of Their Modes But Haven't Tested This Mode on the HS50EXR. . . 

That's My 2-Cents. . . More to Be Thrown Into the Pot I'm Sure. . .
Best of Luck Dicky - You'll Need It !

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion 

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Gary N W
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help. Hi Dicky
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

Heck it looks like a very good start.  Keep trying my friend and you will do even better.

Cheers,  Gary N W  SFO

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jcmarfilph
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to Orion12, 9 months ago

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:


Well, at least it's a start.

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .


The Moon Shot File Size was captured @ 4:3 Ratio / 8-Mp & Then Cropped 1:1 with NO-Scaling - These are 1:1 Sensor Pixels. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion

Again, EXR-crap has nothing to do with capturing scene like this.

You need to capture it using long-exposure or burst shot.

-=[ Joms ]=-

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DickyAus
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to jcmarfilph, 9 months ago

jcmarfilph wrote:

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion

Again, EXR-crap has nothing to do with capturing scene like this.

You need to capture it using long-exposure or burst shot.

-=[ Joms ]=-

Hi Joms. that is quite a good shot. The problem I get is illustrated here - even a 1sec exposure blew the local lights and the lightening. I should have set the ISO instead of leaving it on auto.

No shutter remote so pressing the shutter introduced a lot of shake. If this and several others like it had worked as intended I would have been well pleased.

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Dicky.

 DickyAus's gear list:DickyAus's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
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DickyAus
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to photoreddi, 9 months ago

photoreddi wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

...

I was a bit slow getting out to try the lightening photos so I missed most of the storm. I did try a few EXR shots without success; I got a half inch wide blown out stripe where the lightening went and reasonable capture of lights in houses. As soon as I shortened the shutter I got shaky lightening and lost the other lights. In M mode I found it hard to get the manual focus set to infinity. A lot of the lightening strikes were the multiple strike type like a flickering neon so I was completely at a loss to know what shutter to use. By the time I thought to try 'firework' scene mode the storm had rolled out to sea. Maybe the way to go is a very dark filter and a long exposure?

The last time I tried shooting lightning was enough years ago that I don't recall which camera I used, but I used a tripod and the settings were something like this.

First I chose exposure setting to get a moderately dark image when there was no lightning, so distant trees and buildings were more than just a silhouette and could be recognized but if lightning was included in future shots, the lightning would clearly stand out from the background. Then I used manual focus so that I could leave the cameras set to near infinity focus. Fuji's recent cameras are fairly easy to focus manually, even if you have only pinpoints of distant light to focus on.

I chose a small aperture and ISO 100 or ISO 200 so that I could get decent (but moderately dark) photos using a long, slow shutter speed and a small aperture. My HS35 will only go to 4 sec. in S mode, but can go to 30 sec. in M mode. So I might take many 4 sec. or 8 sec. shots, one after another, waiting for lightning to strike during the exposure. When it happens, if the lightning appears too bright and overexposed, I'd make the aperture smaller and the shutter speed correspondingly longer, to reduce the brightness of the lightning without changing the brightness of the rest of the scene. If the lightning was not bright enough I'd do the opposite, opening up the aperture and changing to a correspondingly faster shutter speed.

Hi photoreddi, my last successful lightening shots were a very long time ago too with an OLY  SLR on a rock solid tripod - F32 & B with a bulb. I think something around 1/10 will get some results with a bit of luck.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Dicky.

 DickyAus's gear list:DickyAus's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
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photoreddi
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

DickyAus wrote:

...

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Your mention of daytime storms reminded me of a device I read about but never followed up on. It's intended to help take pictures of lightning and the more expensive models add features, such as detection of interrupted laser beams, sound triggering, etc. Unfortunately, the cables that attach the devices to the cameras don't support Fuji's cameras, and you'd have to create your own custom cable to get them to work. Here's a description of the Ubertronix Strike Finder models.

The Strike Finder line of triggers offers four unique models: the Strike Finder, Strike Finder Pro, Strike Finder Pro II and Strike Finder Elite. Each of these triggers features a different combination of means by which to record lighting strikes and other functions, depending on your own needs.

The Strike Finder is the original model, which is designed most simply to record lighting strikes during either the day or nighttime. It uses microcontroller-based technology and an infrared sensor to capture lighting and other fast, sudden bursts of light in instantaneous fashion; faster than one’s dependable reaction time. This trigger mounts on the hot shoe of your DSLR and permits automatic, hands-free recording of storms. Depending on the specific storm, lighting bursts can last up to several hundred milliseconds and contain numerous individual strikes, occurring approximately 40 milliseconds apart. The Strike Finder is capable of reacting in microseconds, which when coupled with an average camera’s shutter lag, provides a dependable solution for recording fast-moving lightning storms.

  • Olympus E5
  • Select Canon EOS Rebel and Samsung cameras (including the Canon EOS Rebel, Rebel XT, Rebel XTi, Rebel XSi, Rebel XT1i, Rebel T3i, Rebel T4i, Rebel 2000, Rebel G, Rebel T2, Rebel Ti, Rebel X, Rebel XS, Samsung GX-10 and GX-20)
  • Select Canon EOS cameras (including the Canon EOS 1D Mark II, 1Ds Mark II, 1Ds Mark III, 5D, 5D Mark II, 5D Mark III, 7D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D and other cameras that are compatible with the TC-80NS (3-pin) shutter remote
  • Select Nikon cameras (including the Nikon D3, D3x, D700, D800/E, D300, D200, D2H, D1H, D1x and D4)
  • Select Nikon cameras (including the Nikon D90, D3100, D5000 and D7000)
  • Select Olympus cameras (including the Olympus SP-590, E-30, EP-1, E-400, E-410, E-420, E-520, SP-510UZ, SP-550UZ, SP-560UZ and SP-570UZ)
  • Select Pentax cameras (including the Pentax K20D, K200D, K10D and K100D)
  • Select Sony and Minolta cameras (including the Sony Alpha A100, A100K, A900, A700, A350, A300, A200, A55, A57, A65, A77, Minolta Maxxum/Dynax 7D, 5D, 9, 7, 5, 4, 3, Dynax AF 807si, 800si, 700si, 600si, 505si, 500si, XTsi, STsi, AF 9000, AF 7000, AF 5000, DiMAGE 7Hi, 7i, 7, 5, A1, A2, A200, A7D and A5D)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/hands-reviews/lightning-triggers-ubertronix

www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Brand_Ubertronix&ci=4948&N=4077634555+4087239938

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=4948&N=4077634555+4174467111&srtclk=sort

.

I realize that this isn't going to be of much help for Fuji owners, but if any of them are dedicated storm chasers/lightning seekers, a used Olympus P&S or an inexpensive used camera might be worth considering if a custom cable can't be made.

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DickyAus
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to photoreddi, 9 months ago

photoreddi wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

...

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Your mention of daytime storms reminded me of a device I read about but never followed up on. It's intended to help take pictures of lightning and the more expensive models add features, such as detection of interrupted laser beams, sound triggering, etc. Unfortunately, the cables that attach the devices to the cameras don't support Fuji's cameras, and you'd have to create your own custom cable to get them to work. Here's a description of the Ubertronix Strike Finder models.

I realize that this isn't going to be of much help for Fuji owners, but if any of them are dedicated storm chasers/lightning seekers, a used Olympus P&S or an inexpensive used camera might be worth considering if a custom cable can't be made.

An interesting option, it would certainly take a lot of the guesswork out of pressing the shutter. I've had a JJC WIFI JM-O release on order for about two months now and I'm still waiting. I ordered it through an Aussie supplier, since the HS50 isn't marketed here they don't stock them and had to order it themselves. When it arrives I'll avoid camera/tripod shake on shots that can't take advantage of the timer to avoid shake. The other problem I had last night was fumbling in the dark with the dials and trying not to ruin my night vision by using a torch. Photography is a lot of fum.

 DickyAus's gear list:DickyAus's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
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DickyAus
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help. Hi Dicky
In reply to Gary N W, 9 months ago

Gary N W wrote:

Heck it looks like a very good start. Keep trying my friend and you will do even better.

Cheers, Gary N W SFO

Thanks Gary, if I try often enough then by the laws of average I will eventually nail one.

Cheers Dicky.

 DickyAus's gear list:DickyAus's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-M1 Olympus M.Zuiko ED 75-300mm 1:4.8-6.7 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
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jcmarfilph
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

DickyAus wrote:

jcmarfilph wrote:

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion

Again, EXR-crap has nothing to do with capturing scene like this.

You need to capture it using long-exposure or burst shot.

-=[ Joms ]=-

Hi Joms. that is quite a good shot. The problem I get is illustrated here - even a 1sec exposure blew the local lights and the lightening. I should have set the ISO instead of leaving it on auto.

No shutter remote so pressing the shutter introduced a lot of shake. If this and several others like it had worked as intended I would have been well pleased.

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Dicky.

It's actually the setting I have used to captured these fireworks display. All handheld..

-=[ Joms ]=-

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Orion12
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

DickyAus wrote:

jcmarfilph wrote:

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion

Again, EXR-crap has nothing to do with capturing scene like this.

STOP That Psycho Babble Joms - YOU are Using an EXR Sensor Camera / So is Dicky !

Learn MORE about YOUR TOOLS !

You need to capture it using long-exposure or burst shot.

-=[ Joms ]=-

Nice Capture Joms - Honestly - However 10/150 Sec is NOT a LONG Shutter Time - YOU Got Lucky !
A LONG Shutter Time on THIS IMAGE Would Have Blown Highlights - Your HIGH ISO Helped !
Still "Good Capture"  Shooting Lightening is Tuff Work !

Hi Joms. that is quite a good shot. The problem I get is illustrated here - even a 1sec exposure blew the local lights and the lightening. I should have set the ISO instead of leaving it on auto.

Dicky - YOU Would Have Had a GREAT SHOT in EXR : SN ( High ISO & Noise Noise ) It Would Have AUTOMATICALLY Selected the LOWEST ISO & Set YOUR SHUTTER SPEED to MATCH YOUR Selected Exposure Setting. . . Using AVERAGING Metering maybe Best for That Particular Scene. . .
You'd Have to be LUCKY or in the Middle of a MAJOR Lightening Storm to Collect Enough Lightening Samples to Figure Out How to MANUALLY Set Your Camera & You'd Still Need some LUCK for the Exposure to Be Balanced with OTHER Lights. . .
It's Pretty Tricky No Matter What. . .
High End Setups USE Continuous Frame Captures. . .
Your HS50EXR has a Continuous Shooting Mode. . . Our New Digital Film is Cheap - Throw Out the Junk BUT You May Collect a Pearl !
For the SCENE Below. . .
Here's What I Suggest. . .
Dial EXR : SN ( High ISO & Low Noise ) Mode
Image Size = RAW / or RAW + Fine 4:3 ( If You Don't  Like RAW Just Choose FINE 4:3 )
Select ISO Auto-3200 ( Don't Worry - It Will Select ISO-100 If There's Enough Light ! )
Metering Mode = Multi OR Average - Experiment with Some Shots and Decide
Select Continuous Shooting / 6-Frames per Second - You Can NOW Shoot Until CARD Is FULL. . .
( Simply Press & HOLD the SHUTTER ) After Several Shots Your Capture Rate Will Slow Down

Just Press & Hold the Shutter Button
( Do Some Experiments of Using AUTO Or Manual Focus - Manual is my 1st Best Guess )
This is the FASTEST - High Quality Capture Mode I Know Of for the HS50EXR. . .

SLOW Shutter Captures Would ONLY be Good Without Additional Light Sources. . .

No shutter remote so pressing the shutter introduced a lot of shake. If this and several others like it had worked as intended I would have been well pleased.

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Dicky.

You are Your OWN Master Dicky - So Take YOUR Best Shot & Good Luck !

Cheers from Orion 

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Orion12
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to photoreddi, 9 months ago

photoreddi wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

...

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Your mention of daytime storms reminded me of a device I read about but never followed up on. It's intended to help take pictures of lightning and the more expensive models add features, such as detection of interrupted laser beams, sound triggering, etc. Unfortunately, the cables that attach the devices to the cameras don't support Fuji's cameras, and you'd have to create your own custom cable to get them to work. Here's a description of the Ubertronix Strike Finder models.

The Strike Finder line of triggers offers four unique models: the Strike Finder, Strike Finder Pro, Strike Finder Pro II and Strike Finder Elite. Each of these triggers features a different combination of means by which to record lighting strikes and other functions, depending on your own needs.

The Strike Finder is the original model, which is designed most simply to record lighting strikes during either the day or nighttime. It uses microcontroller-based technology and an infrared sensor to capture lighting and other fast, sudden bursts of light in instantaneous fashion; faster than one’s dependable reaction time. This trigger mounts on the hot shoe of your DSLR and permits automatic, hands-free recording of storms. Depending on the specific storm, lighting bursts can last up to several hundred milliseconds and contain numerous individual strikes, occurring approximately 40 milliseconds apart. The Strike Finder is capable of reacting in microseconds, which when coupled with an average camera’s shutter lag, provides a dependable solution for recording fast-moving lightning storms.

  • Olympus E5
  • Select Canon EOS Rebel and Samsung cameras (including the Canon EOS Rebel, Rebel XT, Rebel XTi, Rebel XSi, Rebel XT1i, Rebel T3i, Rebel T4i, Rebel 2000, Rebel G, Rebel T2, Rebel Ti, Rebel X, Rebel XS, Samsung GX-10 and GX-20)
  • Select Canon EOS cameras (including the Canon EOS 1D Mark II, 1Ds Mark II, 1Ds Mark III, 5D, 5D Mark II, 5D Mark III, 7D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D and other cameras that are compatible with the TC-80NS (3-pin) shutter remote
  • Select Nikon cameras (including the Nikon D3, D3x, D700, D800/E, D300, D200, D2H, D1H, D1x and D4)
  • Select Nikon cameras (including the Nikon D90, D3100, D5000 and D7000)
  • Select Olympus cameras (including the Olympus SP-590, E-30, EP-1, E-400, E-410, E-420, E-520, SP-510UZ, SP-550UZ, SP-560UZ and SP-570UZ)
  • Select Pentax cameras (including the Pentax K20D, K200D, K10D and K100D)
  • Select Sony and Minolta cameras (including the Sony Alpha A100, A100K, A900, A700, A350, A300, A200, A55, A57, A65, A77, Minolta Maxxum/Dynax 7D, 5D, 9, 7, 5, 4, 3, Dynax AF 807si, 800si, 700si, 600si, 505si, 500si, XTsi, STsi, AF 9000, AF 7000, AF 5000, DiMAGE 7Hi, 7i, 7, 5, A1, A2, A200, A7D and A5D)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/hands-reviews/lightning-triggers-ubertronix

www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Brand_Ubertronix&ci=4948&N=4077634555+4087239938

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=4948&N=4077634555+4174467111&srtclk=sort

.

I realize that this isn't going to be of much help for Fuji owners, but if any of them are dedicated storm chasers/lightning seekers, a used Olympus P&S or an inexpensive used camera might be worth considering if a custom cable can't be made.

Excellent Info PhotoReddi 

Fuji Cameras USE TO Have some pretty cool Computer Connectivity but they seem to have Dropped it
( Programs for Computer Controlled Shooting of the Camera & Zoom ect. )

Cheers from Orion 

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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help. Hi Dicky
In reply to DickyAus, 9 months ago

DickyAus wrote:

Gary N W wrote:

Heck it looks like a very good start. Keep trying my friend and you will do even better.

Cheers, Gary N W SFO

Thanks Gary, if I try often enough then by the laws of average I will eventually nail one.

Cheers Dicky.

Right On Dicky - Keep Up Your Own Great Works, Be Persistent & Stay Lucky 

Cheers from Orion 

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alexisgreat
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Re: Orion's Moon
In reply to Orion12, 9 months ago

Hey Orion, I agree with everyone else, this definitely is the best and most detailed moon capture I have seen from ANY bridge camera- let alone just the HS50.

Is there any way you can shoot comparison images of the moon one right after the other? Use your settings in the first one, in the second one use L size DR 100 NR set to Low Sharpening set to Soft, and in the third one use M size DR 100 NR Low Sharpening Soft, and the fourth one M size DR 400 NR Low Sharpening Soft.   Same ISO (100) with each one.   We are omitting raising DR at L size since that will also raise ISO.

This will prove the following- if M size DR 100 output is indeed the same as EXR SN. And the issue of noise at ISO 100 at L size vs M size when NR is set to Low.  One of my hesitations about using EXR SN is I dont know if you can change the NR and Sharpening setting when using it?  Or if you have those settings already set in PASM does it automatically use them for EXR mode too?

One of these days we should do a superzoom vs digiscoping shoot out.  I have a small portable refractor which comes close to matching the focal length of the HS50 so that would be a great comparison.  That scope was only $20, it's a Meade 60mm achromatic refractor with very little chroma noise.

This is an image from it, EFL would be around 550mm (you can zoom the camera 2x to get it to the same focal length as the HS50, but this was enough to I just left it here)

The telescope has a focal length of 350mm the eyepiece is a 32mm Plossl, so it is an 11x magnification (in 35mm terms, 50mm is considered "normal" so that is the base magnification).  I set the camera to 50mm because that is considered 1x and equalizes the magnification factor between the telescope and the camera.

This was taken from a car, holding the telescope in my lap, with an Olympus C-7070 which is an excellent digiscoping camera.

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Re: Digiscoping vs Superzoom vs DSLR crop
In reply to alexisgreat, 9 months ago

Okay, so at some point I will start a separate thread about this but for now I just wanted to show what a good digiscoping set up is capable of.

Note: digiscoping, while great and letting you reach focal lengths impossible with any other set up, cannot shoot objects moving quickly. Perched birds, distant landscapes and astrophotography are what it's really useful for. And for astro I'd use it on a celestial drive capable of countering the earth's rotation.

Such a scope was used below, (but this is a daytime shot, of course) Meade ETX 90, 1250mm. This time a 40mm EP was used, as you'll notice this EP causes some vignetting of the corners- it does give a larger field of view than the 32mm but you dont quite get 40mm- more like 36mm.

The EFL with this set up is 38mm * (1250/40) = 1187.5mm. 38mm is the FL of the camera's lens and 1250/40 is the magnification of the telescope (focal length of telescope / focal length of eyepiece.) If I had zoomed in further to 55mm the vignetting would have been gone, at an EFL of 1718.75mm.

So the ETX completely eliminates CA, as one would expect of its excellent MAK design.

sites used to perform focal length calculations:

http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/digiscope_calc.html

and

http://www.designbydan.com/DIGISCOPING/calculators.html

here's a shoot out Jay did digiscoping with the C-7070 vs a DSLR crop

http://www.jayandwanda.com/digiscope/C7070_v_E300_QC.html

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jcmarfilph
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Re: My first lightening capture = I need a lot of help.
In reply to Orion12, 9 months ago

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

jcmarfilph wrote:

Orion12 wrote:

DickyAus wrote:

I have no idea of what settings to use on my HS50. Any advice on settings and technique would be greatly appreciated. I did try several permutations without success, but got mostly blown out shots.

Dicky.

Hot Damm Dicky - You are Going For It - EXTREMELY WELL DONE - Lightening is Crazy Hard to Capture. . . This is a GREAT 1st Attempt !

This will not Surprise You coming from Me BUT. . .
Out of ALL the MODES Available on the HS50EXR the One that I Believe is BEST SUITED for Shooting Lightening is the Recent Prize Winning. . .
EXR SN mode with ISO Auto-3200 Selected / Spot Metering Mode should Work Well for Exposure

Here a Quick EXR SN mode ISO Auto-3200 Hand-Held 1,000mm Moon Shot from a Lighted Parking Lot. . .

Thanks for VOTING on the Photo Competition - YOU WON - #2 Turned Out to Be the EXR SN Mode Shot Using ISO Auto-3200 / It Produced the Greatest Detail & Best Color !

It's Also the FASTEST - CLEAN - Shooting Mode for the HS50EXR imho

Happy Holidays & Cheers from Orion

Again, EXR-crap has nothing to do with capturing scene like this.

STOP That Psycho Babble Joms - YOU are Using an EXR Sensor Camera / So is Dicky !

Learn MORE about YOUR TOOLS !

You need to capture it using long-exposure or burst shot.

-=[ Joms ]=-

Nice Capture Joms - Honestly - However 10/150 Sec is NOT a LONG Shutter Time - YOU Got Lucky !

I planned that shot so I set the shutter speed that way + high ISO and burst shots. Read my recommendation, long-exposure or burst shot - not EXR-crap setting - regardless of the mode.

A LONG Shutter Time on THIS IMAGE Would Have Blown Highlights - Your HIGH ISO Helped !
Still "Good Capture" Shooting Lightening is Tuff Work !

Wrong, if I have a tripod I would have used long exposure + low ISO.

Hi Joms. that is quite a good shot. The problem I get is illustrated here - even a 1sec exposure blew the local lights and the lightening. I should have set the ISO instead of leaving it on auto.

Dicky - YOU Would Have Had a GREAT SHOT in EXR : SN ( High ISO & Noise Noise ) It Would Have AUTOMATICALLY Selected the LOWEST ISO & Set YOUR SHUTTER SPEED to MATCH YOUR Selected Exposure Setting. . . Using AVERAGING Metering maybe Best for That Particular Scene. . .

Wrong again. Don't rely too much on auto-ISO if the subject in unpredictable. Any camera cannot meter a lightning so you have to meter it manually.

You'd Have to be LUCKY or in the Middle of a MAJOR Lightening Storm to Collect Enough Lightening Samples to Figure Out How to MANUALLY Set Your Camera & You'd Still Need some LUCK for the Exposure to Be Balanced with OTHER Lights. . .
It's Pretty Tricky No Matter What. . .
High End Setups USE Continuous Frame Captures. . .
Your HS50EXR has a Continuous Shooting Mode. . . Our New Digital Film is Cheap - Throw Out the Junk BUT You May Collect a Pearl !
For the SCENE Below. . .
Here's What I Suggest. . .
Dial EXR : SN ( High ISO & Low Noise ) Mode
Image Size = RAW / or RAW + Fine 4:3 ( If You Don't Like RAW Just Choose FINE 4:3 )
Select ISO Auto-3200 ( Don't Worry - It Will Select ISO-100 If There's Enough Light ! )
Metering Mode = Multi OR Average - Experiment with Some Shots and Decide
Select Continuous Shooting / 6-Frames per Second - You Can NOW Shoot Until CARD Is FULL. . .
( Simply Press & HOLD the SHUTTER ) After Several Shots Your Capture Rate Will Slow Down

Just Press & Hold the Shutter Button
( Do Some Experiments of Using AUTO Or Manual Focus - Manual is my 1st Best Guess )
This is the FASTEST - High Quality Capture Mode I Know Of for the HS50EXR. . .

SLOW Shutter Captures Would ONLY be Good Without Additional Light Sources. . .


No shutter remote so pressing the shutter introduced a lot of shake. If this and several others like it had worked as intended I would have been well pleased.

We can expect a few storms for the next couple of months so I will get a few more chances. I will be better prepared next time. Daytime storms will present even more of a challenge. I will experiment on the local lights to get the best results for them and try to capture the lightening separately at much shorter shutter then try stacking.

Dicky.

You are Your OWN Master Dicky - So Take YOUR Best Shot & Good Luck !

Cheers from Orion

-- hide signature --

-=[ Joms ]=-

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alexisgreat
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Re: Digiscoping vs Superzoom vs DSLR crop
In reply to alexisgreat, 9 months ago

Oops, those were from my CP4500.  Here is a digiscoped moon shot taken with my C-7070

This was with a Celestron Nexstar 8 SE at 2032mm but the drive wasn't enabled, so at 1/25 sec shutter speed there will naturally be some blur (due to the motion of the earth), the C-7070 was at full wide, 27mm and the EP used was 32mm so the EFL is:

27 * (2032/32) = 1,714.5mm

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