What if you had $5000?

Started 10 months ago | Discussions
CollBaxter
Forum ProPosts: 12,438Gear list
Like?
Re: What if you had $5000?
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

Well if it meant I would not have to get rid of my current stuff to.

E-M1 , Grip , MMF3 with 60mm , 12-40 Macro and a pile of batteries. (That it for the primes ) 4/3 version of the 7/14 (I can use on both systems) . I would use the E-M1 for general stuff. An the 4/3 cameras for wild life long stuff.
Any spare change would be spent writing letters to Olympus to get the BIG fish to work properly on m4/3.

If I had to sell my all my equipment I would buy a Nikon D7100 + GRIP + 16-85 + 80-400 and make up the difference for the 16-35 f/1.8 Sigma.

Cheers.

-- hide signature --

Collin
(Aficionado Olympus DSLR )
http://collinbaxter.zenfolio.com/
http://www.pbase.com/collinbaxter
http://www.outdoorphoto.co.za/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=21652&username=collin
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away. (George Carlin)
New Seventh Wonder of the World.
http://www.pbase.com/collinbaxter/image/95297052.jpg

 CollBaxter's gear list:CollBaxter's gear list
Canon PowerShot SX230 HS Olympus E-5 Olympus E-30 Olympus E-620 Olympus E-500 +15 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Kurt_K
Contributing MemberPosts: 556Gear list
Like?
Re: For me it would be easy...
In reply to daddyo, 10 months ago

For the types of shooting you indicated, this set up is more than adequate to do pro work. I chuckle every time I see someone suggest that if you are doing 'pro' shooting you must shoot full frame systems -- it's nonsense for the types of work you are listing.

The notion that clients won't think you are 'professional' if you don't have a giant camera/lens set up is silly -- 99.9% of all clients are interested in results, not gear.

I don't know how many paid photographers have to say this before people start seeing the truth in it. There are some truly amazing wedding/street/studio photographers using m4/3 gear these days, and I'm sure there are plenty using Fuji and Sony mirrorless offerings as well. The number of truly competent cameras on the market now is staggering. We're truly spoiled for choices.

As to what I personally would spend 5K on? Well, for strictly non-bird photography, I'd likely get a Pentax K5 II + Sigma 14-35 + flash for around $2200,  and then spend the rest on a nice m4/3 kit.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Re: Wow....
In reply to Ben Herrmann, 10 months ago

Ben Herrmann wrote:

Well, to begin with, I'd pick up a Nikon D610 with kit lens, or I'd get the body and then get the new Sigma 24-105. I'd then also wind up getting the E-M1 and all the trimmings (meaning the 12-40, battery grip, etc.). That should pretty well go through the 5K.

So far I like Ben and Thomas's line of thinking, whether the FF be a D610, 6D or D3 it gives you the best of both worlds.

It is entirely possible since I'm not a birder or sports shooter the EM1 with SHG lenses will be everything I've dreamed of, the only way to know is order one I guess.

If I'm accused of being a gearhead I will say the label probably fits. I love the creativity of photography and the toys I get to play with making images.

-- hide signature --

Have a great one....
Bernd (Ben) W. Herrmann
North Carolina, USA
link

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Dan
In reply to Dan, 10 months ago

Dan wrote:

Darrell sent you a note maybe we are on the same path but going different directions? lol

I am considering selling my Nikon D3, a lens or two (I have a slew of primes), and possibly some pocket wizard TT5's for an Olympus E-M1 and the 12-40 zoom.

No one here in town is carrying the E-M1 so that's about the only reason I haven't already picked one up...I really need to check it out.

The D3 and of course the D800 aren't "too heavy" when I go on walks since I normally also just take a lens or two!

Having just used the D800 and the D3 in a wedding I can say it's very "relaxing" to know the focus is going to be spot on!

Dan

Dan are you going to use the EM-1 for weddings? I think a couple of EM-1's with 14-35 and 35-100 would be as good a wedding setup I would ever need if not for concerns about focusing and dual card slots.

I'm considering waiting for the next iteration of the EM series to see if Olympus addresses some of the issues, it is so close to perfect.

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Re: What if you had $5000? - Savings
In reply to Roger Engelken, 10 months ago

Roger, not a bad idea if I could have the $5000 and still have all my gear.

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Re: If I could find one that cheap . . .
In reply to Henry Stamm, 10 months ago

Henry Stamm wrote:

and I actually had $5000 to blow, I would get the 4/3 version of the Sigmonster: the 300-800mm supertele to attach to my E5. Perfect for wildlife without having to get within 100 yards to get an up-close and persoanl view.

-- hide signature --

I love this Henry, I've looked at the one Adorama had listed for a long time and dreamed about owning it, unfortunately dream about it is about as close to it as I'll ever get. Oh I don't have a need for this lens like you do but like I said in an earlier thread I'm kind of a gear head and Olympus collector.

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Hi Dave
In reply to dave gaines, 10 months ago

dave gaines wrote:

Darrell's idea is to sell all of his Olympus gear for $4000, add $1000 out of pocket and "upgrade" to a new system. What could he get in any particular system that you'd recommend?

Yes this is exactly what I was asking.

Also, I think that maybe suggesting more Olympus gear is not in keeping with Darrelll's stated plan. The m4/3 camera and lenses may be a good idea for some people shooting for fun and pleasure, but probably not for someone shooting professionally who needs higher IQ in the lenses.

While your right, I'm looking for suggestions on getting the most bang for the buck in a FF system I don't have any problem with the IQ from 4/3 sensors.

Photographers like Greg (diddyo) whom I highly respect have proved to me that m4/3 is more then capable of making fine images. If our 4/3rds lenses focused well on the EM1 I would be in with both feet, but there lies the rub, judging from all the post they apparently don't.

The OP is asking a hypothetical question which is dependent on selling the Olympus gear he has.

-- hide signature --

Dave

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Re: For me it would be easy...
In reply to daddyo, 10 months ago

daddyo wrote:

E-M1 w/HLD-7 & 12-40mm f/2.8 = $2,400 (Net of current Oly $200 rebate)

Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 = $1,300

Oly 45mm f/1.8 = $300

Is this one good for portraits, I understand the 75 to be the gem for m43?

Used (Back up) E-M5 body (LN- Cond. KEH) = $700 (Add HLD-6 later)

Bower 7.5mm Fisheye = $239

Total = $4,939

That would be quite a setup and great suggestion. Let me ask you this question, wouldn't you miss the 4/3 35-100 for it's reach and subject isolation? As we know the one weakness of the 4/3rds system was shallow DOF, I never have a problem with this using the 35-100, PL25 and 50 macro.

Depending on your flash situation, I might get the FL-600R instead of the Bower.

I have the FL50R, I think that works on the EM1.

For the types of shooting you indicated, this set up is more than adequate to do pro work. I chuckle every time I see someone suggest that if you are doing 'pro' shooting you must shoot full frame systems -- it's nonsense for the types of work you are listing.

I'm actually a non pro but trying really hard to improve, if I were you I could take great wedding photos with my wife's new TG-2 tough.

The notion that clients won't think you are 'professional' if you don't have a giant camera/lens set up is silly -- 99.9% of all clients are interested in results, not gear

I recently shot a wedding with my E-M5's. Here is a quote from the 'Thank You' card I received from the bride:

"Thank you very much for photographing our wedding. The pictures all came out great. I'm having a hard time picking my favorites!"

All of the ceremony shots were done at ISO 3200, and no one asked why my camera was so small.

Below is a shot done from a recent Acura sponsored event -- this shot was done at ISO 3200 at 1/4 Sec. hand held. By the way, the blotchy sky in the background is from city lit cloud formations -- not high ISO noise (as you can see by the black on the car).

I hope whatever you end up with is a system you will be happy with:-)

Thanks Greg, I'll probably end up with m43 in one flavor or another and play around with a FF don't know which I'll get first.

And may God Bless you also.

God Bless,

Greg

www.imagismphotos.com

www.mccroskery.zenfolio.com

www.pbase.com/daddyo

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Godfrey
Forum ProPosts: 27,341
Like?
Re: What if you had $5000?
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

Darrell500 wrote:

Just for fun if you had $5,000.00 to put into camera gear for semi pro work, such as weddings, concerts, studio portraits, fashion and seniors, which gear would you buy?

Don't know what SHG lenses you have. So lets not consider them at all for the moment.. Sell all the other stuff.

Buy an E-M1 ($1400) and the 12-40/2.8 ($700 while the rebate is on, $900 otherwise). If you prefer primes over zooms as I do, pick a wide, a normal, and a portrait tele (my choice at present is Panasonic 14/2.5 ($200, Summilux 25/1.4 ($550), Macro-Elmarit 45/2.8 ($700)). Add the HLD-7, and a couple spare batteries.

And go to work with about $2000 left in the bank.

I don't know what your concern is. Why not just sell off what you don't want, buy an E-M1 body, and keep going rather than switching systems and spending lots more money?

-- hide signature --
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Darrell500
Senior MemberPosts: 1,993Gear list
Like?
Re: What if you had $5000?
In reply to Godfrey, 10 months ago

Godfrey wrote:

Darrell500 wrote:

Just for fun if you had $5,000.00 to put into camera gear for semi pro work, such as weddings, concerts, studio portraits, fashion and seniors, which gear would you buy?

Don't know what SHG lenses you have. So lets not consider them at all for the moment.. Sell all the other stuff.

Buy an E-M1 ($1400) and the 12-40/2.8 ($700 while the rebate is on, $900 otherwise). If you prefer primes over zooms as I do, pick a wide, a normal, and a portrait tele (my choice at present is Panasonic 14/2.5 ($200, Summilux 25/1.4 ($550), Macro-Elmarit 45/2.8 ($700)). Add the HLD-7, and a couple spare batteries.

And go to work with about $2000 left in the bank.

I don't know what your concern is. Why not just sell off what you don't want, buy an E-M1 body, and keep going rather than switching systems and spending lots more money?

This is just in fun and not intended to be an antagonist thread. As a matter of fact my current gear is pretty good.

I like your suggestions except I would like to just add the adapter and skip buying all new lenses. If I have to sell off everything and buy all new lenses, well that is really switching systems.

-- hide signature --
-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

 Darrell500's gear list:Darrell500's gear list
Olympus Stylus 1030 SW Olympus E-5 Olympus E-500 Olympus E-520 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 +27 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
windsprite
Senior MemberPosts: 2,030Gear list
Like?
Re: Good info on FF Lenses
In reply to dave gaines, 10 months ago

dave gaines wrote:

windsprite wrote:

Dave wrote: ... For $5000 I'd suggest a full frame body and the best f/2.8 lenses. It's all about the lenses. A good choice is the D610 and 3 Nikon lenses. ...

... The D lenses are sharp wide open and still have a lot of fans, but the newer ones (G) are even sharper and have better contrast and bokeh.

Thanks Julie. That's good to know. I haven't figured out what the differences are yet, besides having an aperture ring on the D lenses.

Often the D lenses have no built-in motors and have to be driven by the camera, but it's not always the case. The newer 300/4 is an AF-S (internal motor) lens that has an aperture ring.

The system is confusing, because Nikon have taken pains to make sure the older lenses remain as compatible as possible with the new cameras. Which is a good thing, IME. Ken Rockwell's site does the best job of explaining and clarifying this stuff.

And I'm not sure how you can use an aperture ring when the camera is controlling exposure and aperture either in manual mode or auto.

There's a menu setting that allows you to choose whether to use the aperture ring or the command dial. I always use the command dial, because I don't want to be unconsciously reaching for the aperture ring when I have a G lens mounted! So I have no idea how the P and S modes function when you have chosen to use the aperture ring. Probably they don't, and you have to set the camera to use the command dial for these modes.

With the old manual Ai/AiS lenses, I don't think there is any way to change the aperture with the command dial, but I could be wrong. I haven't really explored this, because with the Nikons I only ever use M or A mode anyway.

I also tried the 85/1.8G against the 85/1.4G, and although the f/1.4G has visibly better bokeh, the two G lenses are so close that if I were upgrading my 85/1.8D (I'm not), I would definitely take the 1.8G over the 1.4G and save the balance of my money for something else. ...

Good advice. This confirms everything I've read in lens reviews so far.

You may find that wide open, the fast Nikkors have more CA than you are used to seeing on four thirds, but ...

I wonder? If you shoot wide open maybe you should avoid shooting into the bright light or high contrast scenes, where CA is likely to occur.

I shoot wide open when the light falls and in that situation there is less contrast. For DDOF control in bright situations it may be important to choosebackgrounds with less contrast.

I guess I should have said bokeh fringing. With the 85/1.8D, I've seen it even shooting street scenes on a very low-contrast, rainy day. I also shoot at night, and the lights in the background often show fringing. It's not so intrusive that I particularly care about it most of the time, but I mentioned it because it may bother some people. (In my brief comparison with the G version, I didn't think newer lens performed any better in this regard, but it's a better lens in almost every other way.)

...

I picked up a used copy of the 70-200/2.8 AF-S VR, version one, from a friend locally for about half price.

I have this lens. Love it, though I know the VRII improves on it in most ways.

The VRI has a reputation for having soft corners on FF, but this shouldn't be a problem for event/portrait shooting. Even for landscapes, I find it sharp into the corners at the apertures you would normally use for that kind of shooting. That's on the 12MP D700, though. A 24MP or 36MP sensor might reveal corner softness upon pixel peeping.

Yes, the lens reviews confirm all of this. Vignette happens on all lenses, this one a bit more than somezooms and most primes. The big advantage of the 70-200/2.8, version one is that it has focus stop buttons and it does not exhibit the reduction in focal length at close focus that version two, VRII suffers from. Read the review at SLR Gear for an explanation of this.

I'm aware of the focus breathing on the VRII. I don't know that people are finding it a huge problem in real-life shooting, though.

As far as the focus stop buttons, I've found no particular use for them, maybe because I use the AF-ON focusing method (back-button AF). Never touch 'em.

The version one lens hood is larger/longer too, which can be an advantage if you're shooting into bright light. IMHO VRII has a better, more useful focus limiting switch, from 5 m to infinity rather than 2.5 m to infinity. The focus limit switch on the Olympus 35-100 is much more useul.

Like Ga says, you should probably use the 70-200 for a while before you make that determination!

I will miss the Olympus lenses.

Probably you will miss some. Others, not so much. And there will be still others for which there is no substitute at all in the four thirds system.

Julie

 windsprite's gear list:windsprite's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix F100fd Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ200 Fujifilm FinePix F550 EXR Nikon D2H Nikon D700 +36 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Leandros S
Senior MemberPosts: 1,089Gear list
Like?
Buy the gear stolen from the whining US tourist
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

She got her bloggerel about the incident syndicated on PP a few days ago. She gives a list of her kit, and she's a wedding etc. shooter. Bought used, I think it would be in your ballpark.

-- hide signature --

No amount of perceived entitlement can replace actual expertise.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
marike6
Senior MemberPosts: 5,070Gear list
Like?
Nikon Df and new 58 f/1.4
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

Darrell500 wrote:

Just for fun if you had $5,000.00 to put into camera gear for semi pro work, such as weddings, concerts, studio portraits, fashion and seniors, which gear would you buy?

Without a doubt for the applications you mention, I'd buy a Df with a 58 f/1.4.

Either the D610 or D800 would be appropriate, but i think excellent low-light ability of the D4 sensor, and the smaller RAW file sizes would make the Df better for high volume shooting.

Sorry that I'm in the wrong forum, but that's what I would buy. I used to shoot Olympus 43 and one of my first digital cameras was the excellent E620. I can't imagine why Olympus bailed on the excellent Four Thirds system, it is such a pity to let all of those Four Thirds lenses go to waste.

But anyway, with $5000 that what I would buy. YMMV.

DF and 58 f/1.4

58 f/1.4 sample

Cheers, Markus

 marike6's gear list:marike6's gear list
Nikon Coolpix P330 Nikon D800 Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2 Fujifilm X-E1 Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/4G ED VR +7 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Raist3d
Forum ProPosts: 32,981Gear list
Like?
Seems you are asking two questions....
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

The first is what I would buy with $5,000 USD. The second is ideas for you in your situation with $5000.

For the first, if I was going to do only paid work with such events, I would consider a K-3 with lens assortment, an EM-1 with its m4/3rds kit lens, or a Panny GH3 with its high grade zooms.  If it's a mix of personal and paid (may very well do this with paid work) I would say the Fuji Xtrans system.

I would put more weight to the Panasonic if I felt I was going to be shooting video as it is the clear leader in video over anything else in its price range and above by several tiers.

For your self- well, what do you want to do? If you already have the SHG's and like them, it seems you should put weight to the EM-1 as you already have lenses.

PS: Saw your reply to Dave.

While I would agree many lenses on m4/3rds do not have the same bite or quality of the 4/3rds, there are some gems that do or at least imho, are close enough.  Looks like the e-m1 pro kit lens is pretty good.  Same with some of the high end Panasonic lenses.

Is the question more about "I want a full frame system? which?"  Does it have to be full frame?

If it has to be full frame, I would probably check the Nikon 610.  I would personally go Fuji Xtrans in that case as the lenses are excellent and so is the image quality. XE-2.  The K-3 is fantastic but I like smaller cameras thus my preference of the Fuji over the K-3 in this case.

-- hide signature --

Raist3d/Ricardo (Photographer, software dev.)- I photograph black cats in coal mines at night...
“The further a society drifts from truth the more it will hate those who speak it.” - George Orwell

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
daddyo
Veteran MemberPosts: 9,247Gear list
Like?
Darrell...
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

Thanks for the response.

I listed the 45mm rather than the 75mm for two reasons -- although I don't think there is any question that the 75mm is a better lens.

First is the cost/IQ factor. The 45mm is only around $300 which is a steal. The IQ is simply outstanding, and I believer that one would have to examine a portrait very critically to distinguish any image quality difference between the 45mm and the 75mm. The 45mm is much lighter and smaller.

Second is the fact that I also listed the Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 which is an outstanding, sharp portrait lens for close up/head and shoulders type portraits. I personally almost never shoot a close up portrait at wider than f/4. At f/2.8 or wider your focus has to be spot on and even if is, I don't want to give clients a portrait with their eyes in focus and their nose and ears out of focus -- that may work for model shots, but most clients I have dealt with want their entire face in focus not just their eyes -- contrary to popular belief on these forums that shallowest DOF is always better.

In addition, if you need more shallow DOF, the 45mm  @ f/1.8 will provide it -- and give you options for a wider field of view at a reasonable working distance from your subjects if you are shooting 2 or 3 people.

I would love to own the 75mm, but based on my type of shooting, I probably will never own it -- the lenses I have work great for me, and as it is, I don't even use my 45mm all that much. I will doubtless invest in the Oly 40-150mm f/2.8 when it comes out, and I am certain that it will be at least as sharp as my Pany 35-100mm  which easily covers the 45mm and 75mm focal lengths @ f/2.8 which is about all I need.

God Bless,

Greg

www.imagismphotos.com

www.mccroskery.zenfolio.com

www.pbase.com/daddyo

 daddyo's gear list:daddyo's gear list
Olympus 12-40mm F2.8
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Godfrey
Forum ProPosts: 27,341
Like?
Re: What if you had $5000?
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

Darrell500 wrote:

Godfrey wrote:

Darrell500 wrote:

Just for fun if you had $5,000.00 to put into camera gear for semi pro work, such as weddings, concerts, studio portraits, fashion and seniors, which gear would you buy?

Don't know what SHG lenses you have. So lets not consider them at all for the moment.. Sell all the other stuff.

Buy an E-M1 ($1400) and the 12-40/2.8 ($700 while the rebate is on, $900 otherwise). If you prefer primes over zooms as I do, pick a wide, a normal, and a portrait tele (my choice at present is Panasonic 14/2.5 ($200, Summilux 25/1.4 ($550), Macro-Elmarit 45/2.8 ($700)). Add the HLD-7, and a couple spare batteries.

And go to work with about $2000 left in the bank.

I don't know what your concern is. Why not just sell off what you don't want, buy an E-M1 body, and keep going rather than switching systems and spending lots more money?

This is just in fun and not intended to be an antagonist thread. As a matter of fact my current gear is pretty good.

I like your suggestions except I would like to just add the adapter and skip buying all new lenses. If I have to sell off everything and buy all new lenses, well that is really switching systems.

Not meaning to be antagonistic at all. It wasn't obvious that your question was in fun. My response and question was real.

What I'm finding is that despite having a few wonderful FourThirds lenses, I am wanting to update my kit with mFT prime lenses to work with the E-M1 as they are much smaller, lighter, handier. I consider the E-M1 a big advance over the E-5, which was a fine camera, in almost every way.

-- hide signature --
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
TrapperJohn
Forum ProPosts: 10,502
Like?
Try on a more modest scale before spending that much?
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

I've been looking at D700's over the last several months, the D800 pushed the D700 prices way down. Still, you're looking at close to a couple of grand to get one and at least one really excellent lens. While the D700 prices have dropped, good glass for it is as expensive as it always was, because that glass also works on the D800. Another consideration: the majority of D700s out there have seen a lot of usage. You may have to look to find a clean, low clicks one. It's a robust platform, though not quite D3-D4 high clicks construction.

Or, if you want to go the Canon route, the 5DII is a lot of bang for the buck right now. I saw a NIB 5DII marked down to $1600 at a best buy not too long ago. But, it's probably $800-1k to get at least one really good fast L zoom to go with it.

In both cases, you can get into them plus one good lens for around $2k-2500 and see if you're getting what you want. And get back out for not too much of a loss if they're not.

Another option is to get an EM1 and see what it can do with your HG and SHG glass. If it doesn't perform to expectations, you can sell it quickly at maybe a $200 loss right now.  Best to do that before you sell the bulk of your 4/3 lenses, not after. You might end up wanting them back.

If I had $5k to spend on a new system? I'd probably buy a 12-40 for my EM5, and spend the rest on a trip somewhere very interesting to try the combination out.

Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Roger Engelken
Senior MemberPosts: 2,823Gear list
Like?
Re: What if you had $5000? - Savings
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

Darrell500 wrote:

Roger, not a bad idea if I could have the $5000 and still have all my gear.

-- hide signature --

"Don't Be Afraid To See What You See"
Darrell

I have the gear I need, so the savings certainly makes sense, to me anyway.

The EM-1 (or any other new off the shelf camera body for that matter) may be the latest and greatest gear to some, but in a year or two, it too will be "old" and sometime not too far after that ready for the antique shelf.  In the eyes of some here, my stuff already is antique, so why not use what I have.

 Roger Engelken's gear list:Roger Engelken's gear list
Olympus TG-830 iHS Olympus E-1 Olympus E-5 Olympus E-620 Olympus E-420 +22 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Roger Engelken
Senior MemberPosts: 2,823Gear list
Like?
Been there, done that.....equipment stolen wise.
In reply to Leandros S, 10 months ago

Leandros S wrote:

She got her bloggerel about the incident syndicated on PP a few days ago. She gives a list of her kit, and she's a wedding etc. shooter. Bought used, I think it would be in your ballpark.

-- hide signature --

No amount of perceived entitlement can replace actual expertise.

Having had my camera gear stolen while in the Czech Republic in September 2010, I can sympathize with her plight, though I heard it only here. You may call it whining all you like, just hope it does not happen to you. My insurance covered the loss, but not the week's worth of pictures that went with the camera. A valuable lesson in frequent backup learned.

 Roger Engelken's gear list:Roger Engelken's gear list
Olympus TG-830 iHS Olympus E-1 Olympus E-5 Olympus E-620 Olympus E-420 +22 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Aoresteen
Regular MemberPosts: 177Gear list
Like?
Easy - Big Tuna!
In reply to Darrell500, 10 months ago

That's an easy one. I would buy just one lens - the Olympus 300mm f/2.8 'Big Tuna'.

Would make my E-3 very happy!

 Aoresteen's gear list:Aoresteen's gear list
Olympus C-5060 Wide Zoom Olympus E-1 Olympus E-3 Olympus E-5 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 12-60mm 1:2.8-4.0 SWD +6 more
Reply   Reply with quote   Complain
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum MMy threads